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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Monkeyfinger (5.12)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux of pitch 2 is the traverse to the left crack, probably 11- face climbing with good pro overhead at the base of the right crack.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Wigs in Space (5.11)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Grade IV, not Grade VI. I think two stars is warranted for the middle 5 pitches, especially when more traffic cleans up the loose bits. The first three "pitches" are poor, but they go extremely quickly so I don't really count them against the route's quality. That said, Wigs is definitely in the second tier of long Zion free routes, below Monkeyfinger, Shunes, Moonlight, et al -- probably equivalent in quality to Iron Maiden or Northeast Buttress of Angels Landing, though I haven't done either o... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Serpent (5.10b R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 28, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Take care with the crucial blocky-tower section before turning the corner/roof 20 feet up the first pitch -- the blocks seem to have gotten looser over the three times I've done this section (during the past six years or so). In particular, the key right-hand undercling at the bottom of the tower seems solid until you pull up into it, at which point it definitely wiggles. Use this with care, and be sure to place as much and as good pro as you can before you start this whole sequence -- a small s... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Secret Probation (WI5 M6-7)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jan 31, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Craig Luebben: Bridalveil, Ames Ice Hose, Designator and the Fang, solo in one day. Now that's an enchainment.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jan 25, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Alien's worth is not so much in shortening the fall as it is in backing up that pin. Sooner or later the pin in that flake is going to blow when someone plunges out of the chimney, and that fall will be ugly! I'll take my chances with the Alien (yellow or red, whatever), with yhe hope that it at least slows me down a bit before I weight that pin. For what it's worth, it held me (160 pounds), the one time I fell on it.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Redstone
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jan 20, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both the Redstone Pillar and the Drool felt tough for the grades in current conditions. Much chandelier ice, especially near the bottom of the pillars. The Drool was very chandeliered and impossible to protect for big stretches. After an aborted lead, I ended up on TR.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Haimovi Tower : Southeast Buttress (5.7)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Dec 10, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This indeed offers a beautiful day in the mountains. The lake at the base of the buttress is slightly out of the way, but a gorgeous place to visit. For the descent, traverse off the back (some 4th class or rappel). If you haven't left anything at the base (a good idea), you can contour around talus slopes and a few gullies to hit the meadows just below the pass on the way in -- that way you don't have to hike back up a long trail.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Talon Contest (5.10+)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 10, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went back and brushed the worst lichen off this route a couple of weeks ago. Enjoy! An excellent, four-pitch 5.10 link-up can be done by climbing the first two pitches of Where Eagles Dare, the second pitch of Blacklight (5.10 corner and hand traverse above the big ledge, a bit dirty from under-use but well-protected and exciting), and then finishing on Talon Contest. This adds up to one of the most continuous and interesting long 5.10s in Boulder Canyon.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 27, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: To be fair, I said, "The yellow Alien, I believe." Yellow, red, whatever. Go up there with both of them and you'll be much happier. I know I fell on one of them, and it held. I just better replace my busted red Alien before I go back up there, in case I was wrong about the size....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Forbidden Planet (5.11b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 27, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this climb today. If the hold that broke was where I think it was, it makes the move between bolts 1 and 2 harder for shorter people. At my height (5'10"), I could stretch up to grab the good crimp, and the crux passage through 1 and 2 still felt the same way it did when I first did this route, around a decade ago. Great pitch -- if you can reach that hold!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Boulder Quartz System (5.12a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 10, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm surprised this route doesn't get more raves. I thought it was excellent! The diagonal traverse up the quartz dike is unique in the canyon, and the crux is very interesting. Hint: It seemed easier to me to start the crux up and right, then move back left.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Auburn Lane (5.10-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 9, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is a lot better if you take the variation called Auburn Court, which adds about 35 feet of quality crack climbing and a second crux (and avoids the rubble at the top). We should have listed it as a variation here, but it's posted as a separate route on this site.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 16, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I never really looked at Otto's Route as a climbing route anyway. It's more like a super-advanced trail or via ferrata to a great summit.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Shanahan Crag : Prune Face (5.7)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 24, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good to get the history on this fun climb. We called it Prune Face in honor of Broncos coach Mike Shanahan, but, of course, there may be another name.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Shanahan Crag
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 8, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: With several new routes, the south face of Shanahan is now an excellent destination for moderate climbing. There are six routes from 5.4 to 5.9+ (not including the 11a Leonine), and several of these climbs merit three stars. The new routes all have adequate protection, but it can be tricky to arrange. RPs are a must and double ropes can be useful. Many leaders will be more comfortable a grade or two below their limitis.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Gravitations (5.11d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jan 28, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: It occurs to me that with all the comments bout "spice" and runouts, some do-gooder might get the idea to add a bolt or two to Gravitations. Please, please, please don't! The route is great the way it is.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Aquavelva - aka Headdress -... (5.9 WI5 M5)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 19, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty sure this was climbed by Topher Donahue and (?) a couple of years ago.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : Redgarden Boulders : The Wisdom Simulator Simula... (V9 R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 18, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 50-foot V9 traverse into the Wisdom yields a 5.11+?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Stage Fright (5.11a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 1, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I diagonaled directly to the roof, the option you described. I don't know if it's harder than stepping right and going straight up, but it was fairly run-out. In the end, we felt it was sort of silly, though -- better to just follow the easiest ground to the roof, where the real action starts. Great climb, all in all, with the crux near the top, where it should be.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Le Boomerang (5.11+)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 9, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know where Derek went after he got to the anchor? Downclimb C'est la Vie? Second pitch of C'est la Vie? Desdichado?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Directagonal (5.11 R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 7, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Back to Directagonal for a moment:
This route was almost completely dry in early September, and in these conditions it is definitely 3-star. Superb, varied climbing with adequate pro. Couple of comments on gear: Someone could do a huge public service by replacing a couple of anchor bolts (one at each bolted anchor) and the pro bolt on pitch 5. The pro on pitch 4 isn't too bad with a fistful of RPs and the smallest Aliens -- no individual piece seems that great on the crux traverse, but you get ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Moraine Park/Fern Lake Trai... : Jaws Falls (WI4)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 31, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: When Jaws is thin, but still cold and safe, there can be a terriffic mixed line on the right side. Look for a cracky, corner thing through a steep bulge on the right side of the big curtain. You'll know you're in the right place if you get good pro. Short but very steep cranking off good tool placements in the crack lead to easier ground. Good pro, too. About M5-M6 when I did it.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Spear Me the Details (5.11d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 21, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux of this climb, for me, was very clearly the moves past the initial corner and horizontal crack on the fifth pitch, getting established on the bolted face above. When we did it, the fixed pin was very loose and I had to hang to place solid gear before committing to the move. Rumor has it the pin may now be gone (?). In either case, there are good wires to be found by a determined leader. Maybe it was just the fat bolts, but I thought the climbing above was easier.
On the last pitch, it'... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 13, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: For those of us who are very afraid of the fourth pitch and the expanding flake that holds the usual pro for the moves into the chimney, it's easy to reach left and place a good 3/4" cam (the yellow Alien, I believe). This piece is good. Trust me.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northwest Corner (5.11a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 1, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now that I've (FINALLY!) led the crux without a problem, I think this is a great route. Before it was negative-five stars. If you're weak, like me, don't stint on gear for the traverse from the bolt to the belay (assuming you've taken the left variation). You can clip the second bolt at your knees with a long sling. And be sure to back up the pin at the end. The exit is not trivial!
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