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Member Since: Apr 13, 2002
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Dougald MacDonald


Point Rank: # 771
Total Points: 820
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
56 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dougald MacDonald been climbing?










Dougald MacDonald

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 477 | Routes 42 | Areas 5 | Photos 32 | Page Improvments | Comments 165 | Posts 64 | Stars 124 | Ratings 45
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : Sweet and Innocent (5.10 PG13)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 21, 2007

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Comments: A very good climb, with a couple of cruxes. You can place a small wire or RP before doing the mantel that Tony describes at the top of the first crux. I chose the right-hand of the twin cracks that Tony mentions, and it was pleasant and well-protected 5.8 or so. We belayed right after the upper crux bulge, then traversed up and left along strata, passing a bolted anchor (possible rap descent with two ropes), to reach rap anchors near the south summit of the Goose. This was fun, airy 5.6 or 5.7 c... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : Batman (5.10b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 21, 2007

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Comments: Good climbing, but my partner and I both thought the first pitch of Raging Bull (aka Cub) up the hill was a much better Flatirons sport climb. Also, this route probably deserves at least a PG-13 rating for the run-out from the last bolt to the lip of the wall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nursing Home : Lost Dentures (5.9)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 18, 2007

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Comments: Ken wrote: "I just don't see the point of carrying a rack to do twenty-five feet of easy mixed climbing. Just my opinion."

Fair enough. Your opinion. But some of us think mixed routes (bolts and gear) provide some of the most enjoyable and interesting face climbs around. It's great to have a variety of routes (sport, trad, and mixed) in an area.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Texas Two-Step (5.10+ R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 28, 2007

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Comments: Mark Hammond (and I and other folks) TR'd this line a few years back when we were establishing Backslash, which ends at the same tree. But as far as I know, none of us ever had the gumption to lead it, so it's great to see it get done (and ground-up, too!). As I recall, we thought the crux bulge might be harder than 5.10+, but Steve would know best.

Back up the little tree for TR'ing or belaying the second.


Location: CO : New Hard Line on Mt Evans i...
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 27, 2007

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Comments: For the record (since I wrote the Climbing.com story), I've climbed on the Black Wall and in the Chicago Lakes valley at least half a dozen times, and I know the area well. I described the Black Wall as being "on Mt. Evans" because few readers would have recognized Mt. Spaulding and, anyway, rightly or wrongly, the vast majority of climbers describe the Black Wall as being on Evans. The "P Wall" that Rob climbed is in the Chicago Lakes drainage, below the Mt. Evans Road (which goes up Mt. Evans)... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Magician (5.9)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 20, 2007

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Comments: With some traffic to clean it up, this will turn into a nice addition to Avalon. Several cruxes and nice variety. Kudos for leaving it a mixed route and not bolting the whole thing. Bring a couple of long slings, and save one for the last bolt (over the top), so the rope will run more smoothly to the anchors on the right.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Slat (5.7)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 12, 2007

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Comments: The direct finish (Tat Exit?) turns this into a decent route for the 5.10 climber. Bring a #3.5 or #4 Camalot to protect the final move; protect in a subsidiary crack high and left.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cannonball Corner (5.10c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 12, 2007

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Comments: This is a spectacular route, marred by a lot of big, loose, sharp flakes. And, at least when we did it in mid-August, there was some wet rock at key sections. Pitch 1 felt harder than 5.9, especially a strenuous chimney exit near the end of the lead. Pitches 4 and 5 have amazing situations: among the steepest pitches I've ever done in the mountains. The crux on 4 felt like 5.10+. (A #5 Camalot would be easier to place than a #4.5 to protect the crux move.) And with wet, cold hands, t... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Lower Great Face : ... : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 7, 2007

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Comments: This is the third pitch of the Big Steep on Upper Great Face.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Upper Great Face : The Big Steep (5.10)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 7, 2007

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Comments: Dave's description is excellent except that he doesn't do the third-pitch corner justice. Despite a bit of lichen, the climbing on this pitch is very good. About 5.10a or b, I'd say.

Location: Both the Big Steep and Golden Monkey basically climb the middle of Upper Great Face, aiming for the high point. There is an enormous dead tree at the base of the routes.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Upper Great Face : The Golden Monkey (5.10b/c R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 6, 2007

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Comments: I can only comment on the second pitch, because we did the Big Steep to get there, but this pitch is absolutely superb...certainly one of the best bolted pitches of its grade on the Front Range. Four stars for steepness, quality of rock, engaging and enjoyable climbing, and great position. Be prepared for well-spaced bolts: It's somewhat sporty but safe once you clip the first bolt, which you can reach directly from the belay ledge or (easier) from a flake on the right. A 70-meter rope lets you ... more >>


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Shear Strength (5.11)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 14, 2007

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Comments: Super-fun and interesting climbing. More like Eldo than Penitente.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Lizzard Warrior (5.10d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 30, 2007

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Comments: I thought this was the least enjoyable of the four routes we did at Combat that day. Good moves, but the route is marred by lots of back-and-forth traversing and rest ledges. I just can't see it as a four-star route.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Nuclear Polka (5.10a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 30, 2007

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Comments: Not sure what people are talking about by saying this route is "much better than it looks." My partner and I both were drawn to it from well down the hill, and it didn't disappoint. We only did the first pitch because the hand crack looked short and trivial, but maybe we missed something. The first pitch was excellent: Keeps coming at you, with much more hard climbing than you'd expect. Pro is adequate but only PG at the bottom, and you have to work to get good pro in the upper left-facing corne... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : No More War (5.10a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 30, 2007

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Comments: Enjoyable, varied climbing. Very reasonable to link as one long pitch. The 5.9 crack at the start (Beetle Bailey) is quite tricky and interesting, and the upper face crux is excellent. Save a long, thin sling: After the second bolt, you can reach up and sling a perfect horn to protect the last hard move.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Aeolian Tower : Etesian Hookup (5.9 A2 PG13)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 26, 2007

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Comments: Sam,

Fun to see this route posted and learn more about that tower. Dave Goldstein and I did the direct east face (Howling Winge) sometime in the 90s. We climbed the lower blank face, well to the right, in two short but hard pitches (especially the first) to reach the midway band. Then a very hard overhanging blades crack straight up; you can see the crack where it gets wider in your photo. Dave took several falls trying to clear the bulge and was held by (I think) a TCU in the roof@S... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psychosis (5.10d PG13)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 18, 2007

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Comments: I think the second pitch is getting unfairly dissed. Althought it's true that P2 of Old Farts is much better, the second pitch of Psychosis is no looser than many passages on Eldo classics, and the climbing is steep, well-protected, and fun. Do Old Farts if it's your first time in the area, but don't rule out doing P2 of Psychosis on a return visit.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 16, 2007

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Comments: April 15: Womb with a View and Tunnel Vision were not in. Not enough snow above the routes. Must have blown off. Didn't look good for Vanquished, either.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Wigs in Space (5.11)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 3, 2007

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Comments: Hey James,

Dave had mistakenly posted Grade VI, so I was correcting him; now it's corrected on the site, so my comment is unnecessary. As for the other comments, did you read my post? I actually quite liked the route; it was the other people who had negative remarks. It was a drag to have our rope caught and cut, but shit happens. I think a bolted variation to the last couple of pitches would be great, and definitely would add to the count of cool pitches, but don't mess wit... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall : Kor Route (5.9 R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 22, 2007

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Comments: Pat, I think you were on route for the run-out fifth pitch. The way you describe it is exactly the way I went last summer, and it seemed to match the guidebook description pretty well. That pitch seems to go by following your nose past the pins and those key jugs, aiming generally up and left for the right-facing corner with the black roof. The pitch above that black roof? Who the hell knows where you're supposed to go. But it seems to work out.... Very enjoyable route, I thought.


Location: CO : Mugs Stump Awards
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Feb 9, 2007

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Comments: For those who didn't make the cut for a Mugs Stump award or anyone who has a good climbing project in the works, don't forget the American Alpine Club's grants. Deadline for the AAC's Lyman Spitzer Awards (totaling $12,000), the AAC-Mountain Hardwear McNeill-Nott Award, and other grant applications is March 1. The AAC also gives grants to many young climbers (25 and under) twice each year. In all, more than $50,000 will be given out to climbers this year. See americanalpineclub.org/pages/... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak - S. S... : Vrain Strain (WI5 M5 R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jan 22, 2007

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Comments: This is one of the better ice climbs I've done on the entire Front Range, a 60-meter rope stretcher with lots of interesting climbing. Great lead by Greg. It's a shame this won't come in more often, but who knows? Maybe it will. As Greg says, one or two #4 Camalots would be nice. One would give you toprope pro for the second crux (the very thinly iced chimney), and if you have another (or backclean), you MIGHT be able to use it to protect the iced-up prow on the final crux. Greg had neithe... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Flatirons
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jan 13, 2007

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Comments: I've done two ice climbs in the southern Flatirons. A three-pitch-or-so line forms almost every November of December up an otherwise undistinguished crag high on Bear Peak, to the south of Shanahan Crag. A fairly obvious talus slope diagonals up and left to reach it. A good three- or four-pitch line formed one year in the late 80s or early 90s up the middle of the east face of the Goose. We called it Wild Goose Chase, but I think Greg Davis and a partner had climbed it the week before (and proba... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Crystal Tower : Mineral Museum (5.9+)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 3, 2006

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Comments: Mark Rolofson added the bolts to this route. I don't have an opinion about them, because I haven't climbed the route since it was retrobolted. Those who have opinions ought to take them up with Mark, rather than launch a flame-a-thon here. I have no idea if he made any changes at Anarchy.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Crystal Tower : Mineral Museum (5.9+)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 2, 2006

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Comments: I don't want to get into this except to correct the last comment: I'm sure it wasn't the FA party that added the bolts. I was at the crag when the bolts were added.


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