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Member Since: Apr 13, 2002
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact Dougald MacDonald


Point Rank: # 807
Total Points: 831
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 1
61 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Dougald MacDonald

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 490 | Routes 42 | Areas 5 | Photos 33 | Page Improvements | Comments 171 | Posts 66 | Stars 126 | Ratings 47
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : A Long December (5.11a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 24, 2008

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Comments: Easy to TR by climbing the 5.10 Caesar's crack about 25 feet to the left to reach anchors at 95 feet. Excellent pitch!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Andrews Creek & The Gash : Brain Freeze (M5+ Steep Snow)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: Jack Roberts and I did this route on the first day of spring. The weather was not spring-like, and the spindrift was in force. This is a very fine route that felt a bit like Hallett Chimney, but with more variety and more continuous climbing. To fully appreciate it, you have to be a fan of snowy mixed climbing and chimneying with crampons. I think it would be in shape from mid-January to mid-April, though you'd want to avoid it on a warm spring day or anytime after a big snow storm.

We did a di... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Aging Salesman (5.11+ PG13)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 7, 2008

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Comments: This is basically the FFA of an old route, Still Alive at 35, which Dave Goldstein and I climbed in 1995 at 5.11 C2. We climbed a different first pitch, to the right of this line, at 5.10 or so, and we took a different line through the roof on the second pitch, but the rest of the route is the same. We did a couple of aid moves over the right side of the roof, and we aided the beginning of the third pitch (the blank stemming corner) with a lucky toss of a Tri-Cam into the bottom of the crack. Ot... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Feb 21, 2008

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Comments: Climbed Martha on February 20. There is no ice except for a tiny ribbon on the final five-foot bulge (crux). On the plus side, there's plenty of snow to cover all the low-angle sections. Cruxes were rock climbing and funky snow. I hadn't done it before, so I have no basis for comparison, but I thought it was fun and on the hard side of the grade range in the comments in its current condition.

See photos at themountainworld.blogspot.com.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Auburn Lane (5.10-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jan 27, 2008

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Comments: Regarding the 1.5-move wonder comments, the variation Auburn Court (posted separately on the Cadillac pages) offers quite a few more good moves, making this a much more sustained and interesting route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Everpresent Lane (5.10d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 21, 2007

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Comments: Lovely, well-protected climbing, and a gimme at the guidebook grade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : Sweet and Innocent (5.10 PG13)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 21, 2007

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Comments: A very good climb, with a couple of cruxes. You can place a small wire or RP before doing the mantel that Tony describes at the top of the first crux. I chose the right-hand of the twin cracks that Tony mentions, and it was pleasant and well-protected 5.8 or so. We belayed right after the upper crux bulge, then traversed up and left along strata, passing a bolted anchor (possible rap descent with two ropes), to reach rap anchors near the south summit of the Goose. This was fun, airy 5.6 or 5.7 c... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : Batman (5.10b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 21, 2007

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Comments: Good climbing, but my partner and I both thought the first pitch of Raging Bull (aka Cub) up the hill was a much better Flatirons sport climb. Also, this route probably deserves at least a PG-13 rating for the run-out from the last bolt to the lip of the wall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nursing Home : Lost Dentures (5.9)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 18, 2007

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Comments: Ken wrote: "I just don't see the point of carrying a rack to do twenty-five feet of easy mixed climbing. Just my opinion."

Fair enough. Your opinion. But some of us think mixed routes (bolts and gear) provide some of the most enjoyable and interesting face climbs around. It's great to have a variety of routes (sport, trad, and mixed) in an area.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Texas Two-Step (5.10+ R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 28, 2007

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Comments: Mark Hammond (and I and other folks) TR'd this line a few years back when we were establishing Backslash, which ends at the same tree. But as far as I know, none of us ever had the gumption to lead it, so it's great to see it get done (and ground-up, too!). As I recall, we thought the crux bulge might be harder than 5.10+, but Steve would know best.

Back up the little tree for TR'ing or belaying the second.


Location: CO : New Hard Line on Mt Evans i...
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 27, 2007

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Comments: For the record (since I wrote the climbing.com story), I've climbed on the Black Wall and in the Chicago Lakes valley at least half a dozen times, and I know the area well. I described the Black Wall as being "on Mt. Evans" because few readers would have recognized Mt. Spaulding and, anyway, rightly or wrongly, the vast majority of climbers describe the Black Wall as being on Evans. The "P Wall" that Rob climbed is in the Chicago Lakes drainage, below the Mt. Evans Road (which goes up Mt. Evans)... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Magician (5.9)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 20, 2007

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Comments: With some traffic to clean it up, this will turn into a nice addition to Avalon. Several cruxes and nice variety. Kudos for leaving it a mixed route and not bolting the whole thing. Bring a couple of long slings, and save one for the last bolt (over the top), so the rope will run more smoothly to the anchors on the right.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Slat (5.7)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 12, 2007

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Comments: The direct finish (Tat Exit?) turns this into a decent route for the 5.10 climber. Bring a #3.5 or #4 Camalot to protect the final move; protect in a subsidiary crack high and left.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cannonball Corner (5.10c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 12, 2007

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Comments: This is a spectacular route, marred by a lot of big, loose, sharp flakes. And, at least when we did it in mid-August, there was some wet rock at key sections. Pitch 1 felt harder than 5.9, especially a strenuous chimney exit near the end of the lead. Pitches 4 and 5 have amazing situations: among the steepest pitches I've ever done in the mountains. The crux on 4 felt like 5.10+. (A #5 Camalot would be easier to place than a #4.5 to protect the crux move.) And with wet, cold hands, t... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Lower Great Face : ... : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 7, 2007

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Comments: This is the third pitch of the Big Steep on Upper Great Face.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Upper Great Face : The Big Steep (5.10)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 7, 2007

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Comments: Dave's description is excellent except that he doesn't do the third-pitch corner justice. Despite a bit of lichen, the climbing on this pitch is very good. About 5.10a or b, I'd say.

Location: Both the Big Steep and Golden Monkey basically climb the middle of Upper Great Face, aiming for the high point. There is an enormous dead tree at the base of the routes.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Upper Great Face : The Golden Monkey (5.10b/c R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 6, 2007

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Comments: I can only comment on the second pitch, because we did the Big Steep to get there, but this pitch is absolutely superb...certainly one of the best bolted pitches of its grade on the Front Range. Four stars for steepness, quality of rock, engaging and enjoyable climbing, and great position. Be prepared for well-spaced bolts: It's somewhat sporty but safe once you clip the first bolt, which you can reach directly from the belay ledge or (easier) from a flake on the right. A 70-meter rope lets you ... more >>


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Shear Strength (5.11)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 14, 2007

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Comments: Super-fun and interesting climbing. More like Eldo than Penitente.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Lizzard Warrior (5.10d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 30, 2007

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Comments: I thought this was the least enjoyable of the four routes we did at Combat that day. Good moves, but the route is marred by lots of back-and-forth traversing and rest ledges. I just can't see it as a four-star route.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Nuclear Polka (5.10a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 30, 2007

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Comments: Not sure what people are talking about by saying this route is "much better than it looks." My partner and I both were drawn to it from well down the hill, and it didn't disappoint. We only did the first pitch because the hand crack looked short and trivial, but maybe we missed something. The first pitch was excellent: Keeps coming at you, with much more hard climbing than you'd expect. Pro is adequate but only PG at the bottom, and you have to work to get good pro in the upper left-facing corne... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : No More War (5.10a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 30, 2007

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Comments: Enjoyable, varied climbing. Very reasonable to link as one long pitch. The 5.9 crack at the start (Beetle Bailey) is quite tricky and interesting, and the upper face crux is excellent. Save a long, thin sling: After the second bolt, you can reach up and sling a perfect horn to protect the last hard move.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Aeolian Tower : Etesian Hookup (5.9 A2 PG13)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 26, 2007

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Comments: Sam,

Fun to see this route posted and learn more about that tower. Dave Goldstein and I did the direct east face (Howling Winge) sometime in the 90s. We climbed the lower blank face, well to the right, in two short but hard pitches (especially the first) to reach the midway band. Then a very hard overhanging blades crack straight up; you can see the crack where it gets wider in your photo. Dave took several falls trying to clear the bulge and was held by (I think) a TCU in the roof@S... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psychosis (5.10d PG13)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 18, 2007

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Comments: I think the second pitch is getting unfairly dissed. Althought it's true that P2 of Old Farts is much better, the second pitch of Psychosis is no looser than many passages on Eldo classics, and the climbing is steep, well-protected, and fun. Do Old Farts if it's your first time in the area, but don't rule out doing P2 of Psychosis on a return visit.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 16, 2007

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Comments: April 15: Womb with a View and Tunnel Vision were not in. Not enough snow above the routes. Must have blown off. Didn't look good for Vanquished, either.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Wigs in Space (5.11)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 3, 2007

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Comments: Hey James,

Dave had mistakenly posted Grade VI, so I was correcting him; now it's corrected on the site, so my comment is unnecessary. As for the other comments, did you read my post? I actually quite liked the route; it was the other people who had negative remarks. It was a drag to have our rope caught and cut, but shit happens. I think a bolted variation to the last couple of pitches would be great, and definitely would add to the count of cool pitches, but don't mess wit... more >>


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