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Member Since: Apr 13, 2002
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Dougald MacDonald

Point Rank: # 825
Total Points: 838
Last Year: 22
Last 30 Days: 7
62 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dougald MacDonald been climbing?










Dougald MacDonald

 
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All 514 | Routes 42 | Areas 5 | Photos 33 | Page Improvements | Comments 178 | Posts 67 | Stars 134 | Ratings 55
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Loch Vale & uphill : Central Buttress (WI5 M6 Steep Snow R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 15, 2008

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Comments: We know of at least one other party that climbed the direct line through the headwall long before we did. Likely it has been done many times. Great route, likely much better in May than when we did it in April. We had a lot of sugar snow; it would be much more fun (and safer) with firmer snow. óDougald and Greg.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Andrews Creek & The Gash : ... : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 29, 2008

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Comments: May 20, 2007 photo.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Andrews Creek & The Gash : ... : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 29, 2008

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Comments: This photo was taken on May 20, 2007. There is much more snow on the route in April and early May.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Andrews Creek & The Gash : Ol' Dawg Chimney (M5 Steep Snow PG13)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 28, 2008

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Comments: As Greg said, this is a good moderate route with a super-cool summit. The only note of caution is that the climb faces southeast, so it's perhaps best on a cloudy or very cool spring day; there are a few big snow mushrooms in and near the chimney that may collapse in the sun. The chimney goes into shade after noon.

Your pitch count may vary: We did four pitches, not including the 300 feet of steep snow at the bottom. If you stretched the rope in these conditions, you could do the rout... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Silver Bullet (5.11+)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 14, 2008

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Comments: It's pretty easy to place a medium-size nut with a stick to protect the difficult opening moves.


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 14, 2008

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Comments: Does anyone know the ownership of these crags and the land beneath them? It's my understanding that they were being kept quiet because they are on private land (an old quarry), even though all the surrounding land is open space. I hope the access is safe...the climbs are unique for this area.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Telegraph Road (5.11b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 24, 2008

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Comments: Pitch 1 = Superb. I placed a blue Alien between two bolts on the upper slab, and I would have been happier if I had placed a small red C3 after the last bolt.

Pitch 2 = Desperate and sporty. The second crux seemed harder than the first (I couldn't do it), and much more than a letter grade harder than pitch 1.

There is a new pitch to the right of Pitch 2. Looked slightly easier, but we were out of daylight to try it, so no warranties expressed or implied.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : A Long December (5.11a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 24, 2008

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Comments: Easy to TR by climbing the 5.10 Caesar's crack about 25 feet to the left to reach anchors at 95 feet. Excellent pitch!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Andrews Creek & The Gash : Brain Freeze (M5+ Steep Snow)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: Jack Roberts and I did this route on the first day of spring. The weather was not spring-like, and the spindrift was in force. This is a very fine route that felt a bit like Hallett Chimney, but with more variety and more continuous climbing. To fully appreciate it, you have to be a fan of snowy mixed climbing and chimneying with crampons. I think it would be in shape from mid-January to mid-April, though you'd want to avoid it on a warm spring day or anytime after a big snow storm.

We did a di... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Aging Salesman (5.11+ PG13)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 7, 2008

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Comments: This is basically the FFA of an old route, Still Alive at 35, which Dave Goldstein and I climbed in 1995 at 5.11 C2. We climbed a different first pitch, to the right of this line, at 5.10 or so, and we took a different line through the roof on the second pitch, but the rest of the route is the same. We did a couple of aid moves over the right side of the roof, and we aided the beginning of the third pitch (the blank stemming corner) with a lucky toss of a Tri-Cam into the bottom of the crack. Ot... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Feb 21, 2008

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Comments: Climbed Martha on February 20. There is no ice except for a tiny ribbon on the final five-foot bulge (crux). On the plus side, there's plenty of snow to cover all the low-angle sections. Cruxes were rock climbing and funky snow. I hadn't done it before, so I have no basis for comparison, but I thought it was fun and on the hard side of the grade range in the comments in its current condition.

See photos at themountainworld.blogspot.com.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Auburn Lane (5.10-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jan 27, 2008

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Comments: Regarding the 1.5-move wonder comments, the variation Auburn Court (posted separately on the Cadillac pages) offers quite a few more good moves, making this a much more sustained and interesting route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Everpresent Lane (5.10d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 21, 2007

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Comments: Lovely, well-protected climbing, and a gimme at the guidebook grade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : Sweet and Innocent (5.10 PG13)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 21, 2007

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Comments: A very good climb, with a couple of cruxes. You can place a small wire or RP before doing the mantel that Tony describes at the top of the first crux. I chose the right-hand of the twin cracks that Tony mentions, and it was pleasant and well-protected 5.8 or so. We belayed right after the upper crux bulge, then traversed up and left along strata, passing a bolted anchor (possible rap descent with two ropes), to reach rap anchors near the south summit of the Goose. This was fun, airy 5.6 or 5.7 c... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : Batman (5.10b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 21, 2007

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Comments: Good climbing, but my partner and I both thought the first pitch of Raging Bull (aka Cub) up the hill was a much better Flatirons sport climb. Also, this route probably deserves at least a PG-13 rating for the run-out from the last bolt to the lip of the wall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nursing Home : Lost Dentures (5.9)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 18, 2007

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Comments: Ken wrote: "I just don't see the point of carrying a rack to do twenty-five feet of easy mixed climbing. Just my opinion."

Fair enough. Your opinion. But some of us think mixed routes (bolts and gear) provide some of the most enjoyable and interesting face climbs around. It's great to have a variety of routes (sport, trad, and mixed) in an area.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Texas Two-Step (5.10+ R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 28, 2007

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Comments: Mark Hammond (and I and other folks) TR'd this line a few years back when we were establishing Backslash, which ends at the same tree. But as far as I know, none of us ever had the gumption to lead it, so it's great to see it get done (and ground-up, too!). As I recall, we thought the crux bulge might be harder than 5.10+, but Steve would know best.

Back up the little tree for TR'ing or belaying the second.


Location: CO : New Hard Line on Mt Evans i...
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 27, 2007

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Comments: For the record (since I wrote the climbing.com story), I've climbed on the Black Wall and in the Chicago Lakes valley at least half a dozen times, and I know the area well. I described the Black Wall as being "on Mt. Evans" because few readers would have recognized Mt. Spaulding and, anyway, rightly or wrongly, the vast majority of climbers describe the Black Wall as being on Evans. The "P Wall" that Rob climbed is in the Chicago Lakes drainage, below the Mt. Evans Road (which goes up Mt. Evans)... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Magician (5.9)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 20, 2007

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Comments: With some traffic to clean it up, this will turn into a nice addition to Avalon. Several cruxes and nice variety. Kudos for leaving it a mixed route and not bolting the whole thing. Bring a couple of long slings, and save one for the last bolt (over the top), so the rope will run more smoothly to the anchors on the right.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Slat (5.7)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 12, 2007

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Comments: The direct finish (Tat Exit?) turns this into a decent route for the 5.10 climber. Bring a #3.5 or #4 Camalot to protect the final move; protect in a subsidiary crack high and left.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cannonball Corner (5.10c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 12, 2007

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Comments: This is a spectacular route, marred by a lot of big, loose, sharp flakes. And, at least when we did it in mid-August, there was some wet rock at key sections. Pitch 1 felt harder than 5.9, especially a strenuous chimney exit near the end of the lead. Pitches 4 and 5 have amazing situations: among the steepest pitches I've ever done in the mountains. The crux on 4 felt like 5.10+. (A #5 Camalot would be easier to place than a #4.5 to protect the crux move.) And with wet, cold hands, t... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Lower Great Face : ... : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 7, 2007

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Comments: This is the third pitch of the Big Steep on Upper Great Face.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Upper Great Face : The Big Steep (5.10)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 7, 2007

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Comments: Dave's description is excellent except that he doesn't do the third-pitch corner justice. Despite a bit of lichen, the climbing on this pitch is very good. About 5.10a or b, I'd say.

Location: Both the Big Steep and Golden Monkey basically climb the middle of Upper Great Face, aiming for the high point. There is an enormous dead tree at the base of the routes.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Upper Great Face : The Golden Monkey (5.10b/c R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 6, 2007

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Comments: I can only comment on the second pitch, because we did the Big Steep to get there, but this pitch is absolutely superb...certainly one of the best bolted pitches of its grade on the Front Range. Four stars for steepness, quality of rock, engaging and enjoyable climbing, and great position. Be prepared for well-spaced bolts: It's somewhat sporty but safe once you clip the first bolt, which you can reach directly from the belay ledge or (easier) from a flake on the right. A 70-meter rope lets you ... more >>


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Shear Strength (5.11)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 14, 2007

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Comments: Super-fun and interesting climbing. More like Eldo than Penitente.


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