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Member Since: Apr 13, 2002
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 757
Total Points: 820
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dougald MacDonald been climbing?










Dougald MacDonald

 
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All 477 | Routes 42 | Areas 5 | Photos 32 | Page Improvments | Comments 165 | Posts 64 | Stars 124 | Ratings 45
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Ticket Information for Kor'...
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 16, 2008

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Comments: Bear in mind that it's not really up to the AAC or Neptune if Kor does a second show. It's quite likely that he wants to do only one show. Hopefully, a larger venue can be arranged.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : The Bruise Collector (5.12a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 7, 2008

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Comments: We thought the right-hand version was about 11d. The eighth bolt is in the middle of the crux and very hard to clip; this lead would be much easier with a long draw or sling already on this bolt. Excellent steep pitch.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Shoshoni Peak : Mass Wasting (5.10b) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 4, 2008

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Comments: The Lowe Route is the pillar to the left of the marked line on the west summit. That line is "Unknown 5.9".


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Shoshoni Peak : Unknown (5.9) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 4, 2008

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Comments: The Lowe-Dieckhoff route takes the pillar to the left. The line marked here is the "Unknown 5.9."


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crag Ranch : Meanwhile (5.12c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 1, 2008

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Comments: The first pitch makes a superb 11b/c route on its own. HIghly recommended. We stemmed past the first couple of bolts, which may or may not have been cheating. Either way, the most fun climbing is liebacking up the steep prow.


Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Higher Calling (5.11d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 25, 2008

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Comments: The second crux on the second pitch is harder than the supposed 11c/d first crux, and the following 20 feet are very pumpy. I saw three people (including me) climb through the first crux no problem and hang on the second. I also think the third pitch is just about as hard as the second. No moves are as difficult, but, as has been said, the pump is relentless. There's still some dangerous loose rock on the third pitch, including one chalked block you really want to use but shouldn't. Best to bela... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Alice : Central Ramp (5.8) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 6, 2008

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Comments: That is, "our" third pitch. We were off-route, but this pitch was on the ramp, at least.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Apache Peak : Northwest Face (5.7 WI3 M4+ Mod. Snow)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 3, 2008

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Comments: Scott and Allen, thanks for filling in some history on this face. Your comments about scary third-classing reinforce my feeling that the best time to climb these big Indian Peaks faces is in the winter and spring, when snow covers most of the loose rock and the alpine ambiance makes the whole enterprise seem more attractive!

I wish your notes had come sooner. After posting this ascent here, I waited nearly a year for feedback and then submitted a report to the 2008 AAJ claiming the "probable fi... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Alice : Central Ramp (5.8) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 3, 2008

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Comments: Great addition. The confusion on this route (these routes) is partly because there is a technical approach pitch (5.5 chimney or 5.8 corner) that's below either of these route lines and above the various scrambling approaches. If you follow the 5.8 corner, it dumps you right at the base of the red line, which is roughly the route of Central Crack. The Central Ramp is the yellow line. You can climb pretty much anywhere on the lower ramp, with the radiating cracks, at 5.7 or 5.8. (We did two pitch... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Alice : Central Ramp (5.8) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 3, 2008

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Comments: This is closer to the line of the Central Crack. The Central Ramp is well to its right.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Alice : Central Ramp (5.8)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 3, 2008

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Comments: A good route in a great setting. The descriptions here are confusing because nearly everyone seems to have climbed a different line. The main entry above and some of the comments are describing a line much closer to the Central Crack route than Central Ramp. See the July 29, 2008, photo topo on this page.

If you approach via the snow gully or directly up the moderate rock below the route (as we did), the Central Ramp is farther to the right than you would think. The key to finding the route is ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Vanquished (Powell Peak) (WI5 M5)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 10, 2008

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Comments: Jack Roberts led a long variation to the first pitch of Vanquished on June 9, 2008. It's the big left-facing corner/chimney just left of the normal start. Moderately difficult mixed ground leads to a poorly protected thin-ice step, followed by strenuous liebacking with hands on rock and feet on thin ice, followed by a weird and insecure groove. The pitch arcs back to the right after the chimney and ends at a fixed anchor on Vanquished, about 120 feet off the ground. Very difficult to rate. Jack ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Central Buttress (WI5 M6 Steep Snow R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 15, 2008

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Comments: We know of at least one other party that climbed the direct line through the headwall long before we did. Likely it has been done many times. Great route, likely much better in May than when we did it in April. We had a lot of sugar snow; it would be much more fun (and safer) with firmer snow. óDougald and Greg.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Andrews Creek & The Gash : Ol' Dawg Chimney (M5 Steep Snow PG13) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 29, 2008

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Comments: May 20, 2007 photo.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Andrews Creek & The Gash : Ol' Dawg Chimney (M5 Steep Snow PG13) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 29, 2008

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Comments: This photo was taken on May 20, 2007. There is much more snow on the route in April and early May.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Andrews Creek & The Gash : Ol' Dawg Chimney (M5 Steep Snow PG13)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 28, 2008

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Comments: As Greg said, this is a good moderate route with a super-cool summit. The only note of caution is that the climb faces southeast, so it's perhaps best on a cloudy or very cool spring day; there are a few big snow mushrooms in and near the chimney that may collapse in the sun. The chimney goes into shade after noon.

Your pitch count may vary: We did four pitches, not including the 300 feet of steep snow at the bottom. If you stretched the rope in these conditions, you could do the rout... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Silver Bullet (5.11+)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 14, 2008

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Comments: It's pretty easy to place a medium-size nut with a stick to protect the difficult opening moves.


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 14, 2008

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Comments: Does anyone know the ownership of these crags and the land beneath them? It's my understanding that they were being kept quiet because they are on private land (an old quarry), even though all the surrounding land is open space. I hope the access is safe...the climbs are unique for this area.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Telegraph Road (5.11b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 24, 2008

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Comments: Pitch 1 = Superb. I placed a blue Alien between two bolts on the upper slab, and I would have been happier if I had placed a small red C3 after the last bolt.

Pitch 2 = Desperate and sporty. The second crux seemed harder than the first (I couldn't do it), and much more than a letter grade harder than pitch 1.

There is a new pitch to the right of Pitch 2. Looked slightly easier, but we were out of daylight to try it, so no warranties expressed or implied.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : A Long December (5.11a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 24, 2008

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Comments: Easy to TR by climbing the 5.10 Caesar's crack about 25 feet to the left to reach anchors at 95 feet. Excellent pitch!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Brain Freeze (M5+ Steep Snow)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: Jack Roberts and I did this route on the first day of spring. The weather was not spring-like, and the spindrift was in force. This is a very fine route that felt a bit like Hallett Chimney, but with more variety and more continuous climbing. To fully appreciate it, you have to be a fan of snowy mixed climbing and chimneying with crampons. I think it would be in shape from mid-January to mid-April, though you'd want to avoid it on a warm spring day or anytime after a big snow storm.

We did a di... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Aging Salesman (5.11+ PG13)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 7, 2008

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Comments: This is basically the FFA of an old route, Still Alive at 35, which Dave Goldstein and I climbed in 1995 at 5.11 C2. We climbed a different first pitch, to the right of this line, at 5.10 or so, and we took a different line through the roof on the second pitch, but the rest of the route is the same. We did a couple of aid moves over the right side of the roof, and we aided the beginning of the third pitch (the blank stemming corner) with a lucky toss of a Tri-Cam into the bottom of the crack. Ot... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Feb 21, 2008

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Comments: Climbed Martha on February 20. There is no ice except for a tiny ribbon on the final five-foot bulge (crux). On the plus side, there's plenty of snow to cover all the low-angle sections. Cruxes were rock climbing and funky snow. I hadn't done it before, so I have no basis for comparison, but I thought it was fun and on the hard side of the grade range in the comments in its current condition.

See photos at themountainworld.blogspot.com.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Auburn Lane (5.10-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jan 27, 2008

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Comments: Regarding the 1.5-move wonder comments, the variation Auburn Court (posted separately on the Cadillac pages) offers quite a few more good moves, making this a much more sustained and interesting route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Everpresent Lane (5.10d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 21, 2007

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Comments: Lovely, well-protected climbing, and a gimme at the guidebook grade.


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