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Member Since: Apr 13, 2002
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact Dougald MacDonald


Point Rank: # 783
Total Points: 822
Last Year: 7
Last 30 Days: 2
58 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dougald MacDonald been climbing?










Dougald MacDonald

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 479 | Routes 42 | Areas 5 | Photos 32 | Page Improvements | Comments 167 | Posts 64 | Stars 124 | Ratings 45
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Palace Pages : Dear Slabby (5.11b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 31, 2010

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Comments: Definitely fun climbing, but this has to be docked a star because of the ramp on the left, which is both dangerous and tempting to step onto for a rest after the first crux.

My partner and I both thought this climb was no harder than Monstrosity (5.10b!), a combination of that climb being under-graded and this one over-graded. As people have said, this one is much easier if you have good hand and toe jamming skills.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : The Bends (5.11b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 11, 2010

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Comments: Four stars all the way: great rock, perfect protection, exposure, and, most of all, amazing variety. Bring at least two each gold and blue camalots or equivalents, plus one big piece and assorted smaller stuff, for the steep final crack.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : Merlin's Magic Corner (5.10)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 23, 2010

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Comments: Terrific climb. Will be 4 stars once it cleans up a little more; there's still some unpleasant lichen in the tricky first 30 feet. Above the lower Guillotine roof more lichen is present but doesn't affect the climbing or the gear placements. Good gear the whole way; RPs are very useful in the middle.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : Take Me to Your Leader (5.11d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 23, 2010

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Comments: Classic and highly engaging face climbing. We thought the crux was the whole passage up to, through, and past the overlap. The blank panel above was technical and frightening, but slightly easier. I'd give this four stars except for the unnecessary run-out on this second crux; it would have been better to move the bolt lower and then let people place a piece in the horizontal crack above the panel. Still, an amazing climb. If this route is near your limit, like it was for me, you'll li... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Treasure Island : Shiver Me Timbers (5.10a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 26, 2010

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Comments: Fun route. A bit of loose rock at the start makes it best to stick-clip the second bolt. Or place a nut high and left to protect a reach over to clip the second bolt. Then start from the foot of the arete.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Apache Peak : Northwest Face (5.7 WI3 M4+ Mod. Snow)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 27, 2010

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Comments: Clay, I think you're right about that approach being easier. But there's a problem: If you're doing Apache out of this valley, what do you do once you're on top? The only good option to return to the base for your skis, etc., is to traverse south to the head of Fair Glacier and then descend the glacier. But then you've got afternoon avalanche danger on the west-facing glacier, and having done the Mohling Traverse from Lone Eagle to Apache, I can tell you that the traverse from Apache down to the... more >>


Location: CO : Chris Plesko heading to Ala...
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Feb 24, 2010

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Comments: Awesome, Chris. Good luck!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Couch Fire Crag : Slachar Cracker (5.12c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Feb 7, 2010

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Comments: Great route name!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Andrews Creek & The Gash : Chockstones of Unusual Size... (M6-7 Mod. Snow)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jan 25, 2010

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Comments: Congratulations, boys! People have been eyeing that line for a long time, but I don't think anyone else has ever braved those chockstones.

For a first-person account of this climb, see Colorado MoJo: coloradomountainjournal.com/20....


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs : Concrete Shoes Won't Help Y... (WI4- M4+)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Dec 10, 2009

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Comments: Greg Mionske has published a great first-person account of this ascent at Colorado MoJo: coloradomountainjournal.com/?p.... More photos, too.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Lover's Leap
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Dec 7, 2009

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Comments: What's it like now? All powder over granite, or is there still a smattering of ice?


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mud...
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Dec 7, 2009

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Comments: A story about the new route Stardust (5.11+, six pitches), completed by Jeff Achey and Scott Norris in September 09, has been posted at Colorado MoJo: coloradomountainjournal.com/?p...


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Job Review (5.11a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Nov 21, 2009

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Comments: 70m rope is perfect.


Location: CO : Naturita and Paradox Valley : Big Gypsum - Dolores : Psycho Tower : Psycho-Path (5.9+) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Nov 11, 2009

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Comments: The photo's labels sort of imply you climb up and left on the second pitch. In fact, the second pitch goes straight right and then curves around the back of the tower. Also, the first pitch is out of view to the right.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Bubo Tower : Bubo (5.7 R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Nov 11, 2009

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Comments: My partner and I both thought this route was much better than these comments would suggest. (But he was English, so his opinion is suspect.) It goes in one long pitch with careful rope management. The first part is better than it looks, and the lower chimney is very cool; all of this is reasonably protected. The upper chimney is poorly protected, but you could place a 4.5 or 5 Camalot, off to the left, about 8 feet below the exit moves. It wouldn't prevent a nasty fall from the exit mo... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice : Bullet (WI3+ M6+)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Nov 2, 2009

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Comments: This route doesn't look great from the ground, because the ice is so short, but the climbing is excellent. Jack Roberts and I did it in two pitches, which reduces rope drag and saves gear; there's a great stance and fixed anchor above the first-pitch roof. Jack found a good and much better-protected variation to the first-pitch crux, going to the right around the bulge instead of left up the lieback/offwidth. Carry a substantial rock rack for the second pitch: small wires to #3 C... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Waiting For Columbus (5.10c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 23, 2009

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Comments: Super route, very fun. Don't get all caught up in the jug hauling and start skipping any gear placements. We broke two big holds on this route in October 09.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Direct West Face a/k/a West... (5.11b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 23, 2009

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Comments: As Jack said, this is an exceptional route: steep, engaging, great moves. There are a few somewhat fragile holds, but it doesn't seem like the grade will be altered significantly if they break. Make sure to take a 1-inch cam (purple Camalot is perfect) on the second pitch. You'll know when you need it, and you'll be very happy to have it.

Doing this in two pitches seemed natural; one would be a stretch, in more ways than one. Both pitches seemed about the same in difficulty, but I thi... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Total Abandon (WI4+ M6)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 16, 2009

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Comments: Total Abandon is in good shape and likely to get better over the next few days with warmer temps. Great route. Only two really good pitches, but those two are excellent. See themountainworld.blogspot.com for photos from October 15.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Apache Peak : Northwest Face (5.7 WI3 M4+ Mod. Snow) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 11, 2009

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Comments: The leader took the photo, and the second is doing a short downclimb. This long "pitch" involved climbing up the left side of a shallow arete for about 200 feet, crossing the arete, downclimbing a bit, and then angling up to the right for several hundred feet. The photo is taken from the base of the "see-through buttress," where the route heads straight up again. Since it was all moderate ground, we simul-climbed (you can see a piece that has fallen out in the snow to the right of the second).


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Andrews Creek & The Gash : Andrews Tower, North Face (5.3 M5 Steep Snow PG13)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 3, 2009

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Comments: Couple of notes on the descent. Down-climbing the east face is only an option in very stable snow conditions. Stay off this face in warm sun. The traverse along the ridge to the Divide would be the classiest option, but it requires a technical pitch (rock/mixed) out of the notch, and possibly additional technical climbing beyond. Allow a couple of hours for this "descent." The best option might be to establish a rappel route down the steep gully to the west. Looks like you could get down to scra... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Mt. Bancroft : East Ridge Direct (5.5 M2-3 Steep Snow R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Feb 3, 2009

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Comments: Paul Gagner and I did this route in early January. We did three long pitches on the northeast buttress, including the lowest rock band. We thought it was great fun, with the bonus that you can easily avoid any potential avalanche danger. It's a cold place, though! See more photos at:

themountainworld.blogspot.com/...


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cannonball Corner (5.10c) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Feb 2, 2009

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Comments: No pro? Obviously you weren't scared enough. Look at all my placements in this photo! Interesting note: I pumped out and fell off the last hard move on the roof before the belay ledge, and in the process broke a carabiner. I had placed a piece in such a way that the biner loaded sideways over the lip of the roof. The gate was permanently bent at about a 45-degree angle from the main axis of the biner, but, surprisingly, the carabiner still held the fall, with the rope just lying in the open bine... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : ... : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jan 9, 2009

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Comments: The start of the route is not marked accurately in this photo. The start is a couple of hundred feet to the left, in another big alcove/gully. It's hard to see in this picture, but it's obvious when you're there.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Frying Pan : The Skillet : Black Eyes and Spam (5.11a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Nov 22, 2008

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Comments: If this route were in Eldo, there'd be a line. Old-school 5.11a with interesting moves and good pro.


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