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Member Since: Apr 13, 2002
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Dougald MacDonald

Point Rank: # 823
Total Points: 845
Last Year: 25
Last 30 Days: 7
62 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dougald MacDonald been climbing?










Dougald MacDonald

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 527 | Routes 42 | Areas 5 | Photos 33 | Page Improvements | Comments 185 | Posts 67 | Stars 137 | Ratings 58
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Leadville : Finback Crags
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: Definitely a good place to wear a helmet, while belaying as well as climbing, and beware of seemingly solid blocks and horns that might break without warning. (We pulled off two large blocks on the Pyramid.) That said, this is a very cool area with challenging climbs in a gorgeous valley. Thanks to everyone involved with developing this unique alpine cragging.


Location: CO : Leadville : Finback Crags : The Emperor Wall : Finback (5.10d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: Quite the adventure for three sport pitches. We both thought the first pitch might be 5.11: unless we both missed several big holds, there's no way it's 10b. It's possible to skirt the crux of the second pitch by following the last two bolts of the variation to the right, but this is still 5.10, and it's probably much better to climb straight up. Climbing straight up the final corner on the third pitch until a hard step left above the final bolt seems like the only obvious way to go and felt lik... more >>


Location: CO : Leadville : Timberline Lake Basin : Tiger Cliff : Stripes Wall : Burning Bright (5.11d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: After top-roping this and the Hammer to the right, we had two conclusions: 1) Burning Bright is considerably harder than the Hammer; 2) it's hard to believe Burning Bright is not 5.12 to lead, given the difficulty of hanging out in sustained laybacks and placing good pro. Unique and beautiful climbing!


Location: CO : Leadville : Timberline Lake Basin : Tiger Cliff : The Left Side : Paintbrush (5.10b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: It's logical and considerably easier to climb straight up at the bulge near the top (after placing pro in the A-frame crack), then traverse left, leaving a directional for the second. Juggy face holds. When the pitch is done this way, the crux is definitely on the lower crack, which is quite a lot harder than it looks.


Location: CO : Leadville : Timberline Lake Basin : Tiger Cliff : The Left Side : Thistle Crack (5.9)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: A little dirty but still quite fun.


Location: CO : Leadville : Timberline Lake Basin : Tiger Cliff
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: It's 3.8 miles to the Tiger Cliff from the trailhead. Took us Front Rangers 1.75 hours in and about 1.5 hours out. We had to wade a significant creek in early July...probably easy to cross without wading later in the season. Gorgeous area. The climbs were a little gritty in early season but still very fun.


Location: CO : Leadville : Timberline Lake Basin
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: It's 3.8 miles to the Tiger Cliff from the trailhead. Took us Front Rangers 1.75 hours in and about 1.5 hours out. We had to wade a significant creek in early July...probably easy to cross without wading later in the season. Gorgeous area.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Homestake Road Crag
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: This is a fun little crag, definitely worth a visit, but there are fewer routes than shown here (there is duplication). The two long 5.10s in the middle (first and second routes to the left of the 5.9) are listed twice here, and also there are only two 5.10s on the shorter right side. In all, there are 10 bolted lines here, not the 13 listed on this site. Having done all but two of them now, my opinion on the approximate grades:

From left to right:

5.9 (depending on how you do it)
Didn't do, s... more >>


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Homestake Road Crag : Three's a Charm (5.10a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: This may be the same route as Night and Day or it may be a linkup, starting with the first few bolts of the 5.11 to the left and then moving into Night and Day after that route's crux. There is no independent 5.10a in here.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Homestake Road Crag : Night and Day (5.10b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: This route and Three's a Charm may be the same: There are only two 5.10s immediately left of the 5.9.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Homestake Road Crag : Psychic Bomber (5.11a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: This and the route called Psychic Bomber apparently are the same.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Homestake Road Crag : Wolfman Shuffle (5.11b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: Tremendous route.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Lisa Randall Wall : Weak Force (5.11c/d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 23, 2015

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Comments: You can plug a gold Camalot or equivalent between the first and second bolt for TR protection during the crux. Nice for those of us who hate falling over roofs.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Lisa Randall Wall
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: This is a really nice little crag that stays in the shade until mid-afternoon. There are now four routes, each with the crux down low and then steep, fun, interesting climbing all the way to the top. All four seemed like mid- to hard 5.11, albeit with the benefit of Richard's draws hanging and waiting for us. Great find, Richard!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Automatic Choke (5.11c R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: For wusses like me, it's convenient to TR this route from the anchors on Cannabis Sportiva. Short but fun.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Flood Wall : Displaced (5.10c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Feb 15, 2015

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Comments: Toughest "10c" in the canyon? Good and stout.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Flood Wall : Higher Ground (5.11c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Feb 15, 2015

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Comments: This route is still a little rough around the edges (some loose-ish rock and munge), but the climbing is superb and varied. The crux is a real puzzle—and it's still quite tough even after you've worked it out, because of the pump. A worthy challenge.


Location: Colorado : The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice ... : Post : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Nov 21, 2014

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Comments: Wow, that has filled in a LOT since mid-October. Guess it's not too cold up there to keep forming ice.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs : (Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow (WI4 M5)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: The steep final ice pitch is longer and harder than it looks from below. Can be WI4+ to WI5 in autumn conditions.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs : Black and White (WI4-5 M5-6)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: You can also exit the cave on P1 to the left. Not sure if it's any easier, but at least you can see footholds. Decent pro (that #4 you may have carried for the right exit would prove useful on the left side too).


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Freeway (5.8)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: I would call this a 5.10 route, with the logical direct finish up the thin and excellent headwall. The easy "second pitch," escaping left after the fun 5.8 corner, seems more like a variation. Done straight up, this is a challenging and fine pitch, with very good pro as long as you can hang around to place it.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Sweet Petite (5.11d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: Very fine route. The rock quality deteriorates in the top third, but it doesn't detract from the overall goodness. Staying right for the boulder problem at the bottom seems the only logical approach and is super-fun. Hang on for a burly finish until the final jug (above the anchor).


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Feline Antics (5.10c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: Best to stick-clip the second bolt.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Southwest Corner (5.10a) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: The purple line is one of the best pitches of alpine rock in the Park. We belayed where the red line starts (nice ledge) and started on red, then cut over to purple after 25 feet or so. This version was very well-protected and 5.8 or so. The short finger crack at the top is also excellent and probably has the hardest moves of the whole climb (5.10), but it can be avoided if you're just trying to get off at that point.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Eldora : Hessie : Hessie Chimney (WI4 M5)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: Erik Rieger and I removed the death block (a long pointed club of stone) on the left wall of the chimney just below the midway stance/ledge on the first pitch. Probably 70 or 80 pounds. Very scary.


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