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Member Since: Apr 13, 2002
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Dougald MacDonald

Point Rank: # 825
Total Points: 838
Last Year: 22
Last 30 Days: 7
62 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dougald MacDonald been climbing?










Dougald MacDonald

 
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All 514 | Routes 42 | Areas 5 | Photos 33 | Page Improvements | Comments 178 | Posts 67 | Stars 134 | Ratings 55
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Homestake Road Crag
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: This is a fun little crag, definitely worth a visit, but there are fewer routes than shown here (there is duplication). The two long 5.10s in the middle (first and second routes to the left of the 5.9) are listed twice here, and also there are only two 5.10s on the shorter right side. In all, there are 10 bolted lines here, not the 13 listed on this site. Having done all but two of them now, my opinion on the approximate grades:

From left to right:

5.9 (depending on how you do it)
Didn't do, s... more >>


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Homestake Road Crag : Three's a Charm (5.10a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: This may be the same route as Night and Day or it may be a linkup, starting with the first few bolts of the 5.11 to the left and then moving into Night and Day after that route's crux. There is no independent 5.10a in here.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Homestake Road Crag : Night and Day (5.10b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: This route and Three's a Charm may be the same: There are only two 5.10s immediately left of the 5.9.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Homestake Road Crag : Psychic Bomber (5.11a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: This and the route called Psychic Bomber apparently are the same.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Homestake Road Crag : Wolfman Shuffle (5.11b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: Tremendous route.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Lisa Randall Wall : Weak Force (5.11c/d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 23, 2015

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Comments: You can plug a gold Camalot or equivalent between the first and second bolt for TR protection during the crux. Nice for those of us who hate falling over roofs.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Lisa Randall Wall
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: This is a really nice little crag that stays in the shade until mid-afternoon. There are now four routes, each with the crux down low and then steep, fun, interesting climbing all the way to the top. All four seemed like mid- to hard 5.11, albeit with the benefit of Richard's draws hanging and waiting for us. Great find, Richard!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Automatic Choke (5.11c R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: For wusses like me, it's convenient to TR this route from the anchors on Cannabis Sportiva. Short but fun.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Flood Wall : Displaced (5.10c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Feb 15, 2015

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Comments: Toughest "10c" in the canyon? Good and stout.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Flood Wall : Higher Ground (5.11c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Feb 15, 2015

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Comments: This route is still a little rough around the edges (some loose-ish rock and munge), but the climbing is superb and varied. The crux is a real puzzle—and it's still quite tough even after you've worked it out, because of the pump. A worthy challenge.


Location: Colorado : The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice ... : Post : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Nov 21, 2014

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Comments: Wow, that has filled in a LOT since mid-October. Guess it's not too cold up there to keep forming ice.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs : (Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow (WI4 M5)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: The steep final ice pitch is longer and harder than it looks from below. Can be WI4+ to WI5 in autumn conditions.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs : Black and White (WI4-5 M5-6)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: You can also exit the cave on P1 to the left. Not sure if it's any easier, but at least you can see footholds. Decent pro (that #4 you may have carried for the right exit would prove useful on the left side too).


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Freeway (5.8)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: I would call this a 5.10 route, with the logical direct finish up the thin and excellent headwall. The easy "second pitch," escaping left after the fun 5.8 corner, seems more like a variation. Done straight up, this is a challenging and fine pitch, with very good pro as long as you can hang around to place it.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Sweet Petite (5.11d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: Very fine route. The rock quality deteriorates in the top third, but it doesn't detract from the overall goodness. Staying right for the boulder problem at the bottom seems the only logical approach and is super-fun. Hang on for a burly finish until the final jug (above the anchor).


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Feline Antics (5.10c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: Best to stick-clip the second bolt.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Southwest Corner (5.10a) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: The purple line is one of the best pitches of alpine rock in the Park. We belayed where the red line starts (nice ledge) and started on red, then cut over to purple after 25 feet or so. This version was very well-protected and 5.8 or so. The short finger crack at the top is also excellent and probably has the hardest moves of the whole climb (5.10), but it can be avoided if you're just trying to get off at that point.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Eldora : Hessie : Hessie Chimney (WI4 M5)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: Erik Rieger and I removed the death block (a long pointed club of stone) on the left wall of the chimney just below the midway stance/ledge on the first pitch. Probably 70 or 80 pounds. Very scary.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Mountaineer's Route (5.9)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 7, 2013

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Comments: We started with the amazing Wafer of Woe variation (the first 5.10 pitch, leading to the second belay on Mtnrs Route). We also did an excellent variation to the sixth pitch, climbing steep cracks to the left of the junky 5.7 corner after the slab, and then traversing about 25 feet right to rejoin the line just below the 5.8/5.9 cracks on the 7th pitch. (Or, maybe this is the route, who knows?) With these variations, this was overall better than Sideline to Astro-Elephant, in our opinion.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Astro Elephant (5.10-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 7, 2013

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Comments: If you want to be clear on the start of AE, print the Sideline topo, which shows the relationship between Astro-Elephant and Sideline very clearly. We were so concerned about the various comments about ending up too far left at the start of AE that we ended up doing Sideline by mistake. If we'd had the topo for the latter, it would have been crystal-clear. Still a great route.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Mt Thorodin : Mr. Misty (5.10a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: Agreed that the second pitch is around 5.8+. The third pitch is definitely the crux. Many variations on the final pitch, but be sure to hit the fairly prominent, whitish, left-leaning crack at the top, visible from the belay below. A steep, well-protected, and very cool climax to the pitch.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttresses : Lazy Sunday Route (5.10-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: Very fun half-day route. I recommend doing the second and third pitches short, stopping on good ledges after each 5.10a crux (top of the steep corner on the second, and right after the roof traverse on the third). That way you can watch the second and drop a loop of the lead rope to haul a pack if your second is toting a load. Run the fourth up to the big grass ledge (still not a very long pitch), and then take it to the top on the fifth. Flows really well this way.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : The Opportunist (5.11-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: Might be the best 11a sport climb on the Front Range. It's that good.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Addict's Wall : Addicts (5.10a/b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: At 5'10", this definitely felt like solid 5.10. Fun route.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : ... : Coconut Bliss (M4-5)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: Greg Sievers and I added two pitches to the top of the buttress: a short chimney through a steep rock band (loose getting into the chimney), followed by fun, juggy climbing up the narrowing buttress and a final steep step guarding the trees. We walked off left: down the ridge to a saddle, then back left under the cliff to the foot of the route (only advisable in stable snow). The route would be more fun with more snow, but it was still pretty fun.


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