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Member Since: Apr 13, 2002
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Dougald MacDonald

Point Rank: # 828
Total Points: 831
Last Year: 15
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dougald MacDonald been climbing?










Dougald MacDonald

 
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All 490 | Routes 42 | Areas 5 | Photos 33 | Page Improvements | Comments 171 | Posts 66 | Stars 126 | Ratings 47
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Waiting For Columbus (5.10c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 23, 2009

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Comments: Super route, very fun. Don't get all caught up in the jug hauling and start skipping any gear placements. We broke two big holds on this route in October ’09.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Direct West Face a/k/a West... (5.11b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 23, 2009

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Comments: As Jack said, this is an exceptional route: steep, engaging, great moves. There are a few somewhat fragile holds, but it doesn't seem like the grade will be altered significantly if they break. Make sure to take a 1-inch cam (purple Camalot is perfect) on the second pitch. You'll know when you need it, and you'll be very happy to have it.

Doing this in two pitches seemed natural; one would be a stretch, in more ways than one. Both pitches seemed about the same in difficulty, but I thi... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Total Abandon (WI4+ M6)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 16, 2009

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Comments: Total Abandon is in good shape and likely to get better over the next few days with warmer temps. Great route. Only two really good pitches, but those two are excellent. See themountainworld.blogspot.com for photos from October 15.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Indian Peaks Wilderness Are... : Apache Peak : Northwest Face (5.7 WI3 M4+ Mod. Snow) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 11, 2009

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Comments: The leader took the photo, and the second is doing a short downclimb. This long "pitch" involved climbing up the left side of a shallow arete for about 200 feet, crossing the arete, downclimbing a bit, and then angling up to the right for several hundred feet. The photo is taken from the base of the "see-through buttress," where the route heads straight up again. Since it was all moderate ground, we simul-climbed (you can see a piece that has fallen out in the snow to the right of the second).


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Andrews Creek & The Gash : Andrews' Tower, North Face (5.3 M5 Steep Snow PG13)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 3, 2009

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Comments: Couple of notes on the descent. Down-climbing the east face is only an option in very stable snow conditions. Stay off this face in warm sun. The traverse along the ridge to the Divide would be the classiest option, but it requires a technical pitch (rock/mixed) out of the notch, and possibly additional technical climbing beyond. Allow a couple of hours for this "descent." The best option might be to establish a rappel route down the steep gully to the west. Looks like you could get down to scra... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Indian Peaks Wilderness Are... : Mt. Bancroft : East Ridge Direct (5.5 M2-3 Steep Snow R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Feb 3, 2009

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Comments: Paul Gagner and I did this route in early January. We did three long pitches on the northeast buttress, including the lowest rock band. We thought it was great fun, with the bonus that you can easily avoid any potential avalanche danger. It's a cold place, though! See more photos at:

themountainworld.blogspot.com/...


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cannonball Corner (5.10c) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Feb 2, 2009

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Comments: No pro? Obviously you weren't scared enough. Look at all my placements in this photo! Interesting note: I pumped out and fell off the last hard move on the roof before the belay ledge, and in the process broke a carabiner. I had placed a piece in such a way that the biner loaded sideways over the lip of the roof. The gate was permanently bent at about a 45-degree angle from the main axis of the biner, but, surprisingly, the carabiner still held the fall, with the rope just lying in the open bine... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Andrews Creek & The Gash : ... : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jan 9, 2009

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Comments: The start of the route is not marked accurately in this photo. The start is a couple of hundred feet to the left, in another big alcove/gully. It's hard to see in this picture, but it's obvious when you're there.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Frying Pan : The Skillet : Black Eyes and Spam (5.11a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Nov 22, 2008

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Comments: If this route were in Eldo, there'd be a line. Old-school 5.11a with interesting moves and good pro.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Space Tower Area : Hallow Souls (5.9)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Nov 21, 2008

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Comments: Wild stemming problem...a cool pitch.

I made the mistake of continuing deep into the chimney, over several chockstones, before realizing this was a dead-end. The huge wad of lowering slings on the final chockstone showed I wasn't the first! Follow the first obvious crack system on the right wall when you enter the main chimney.

I thought I'd reached another dead end when the cracks petered out and the wall steepened dramatically. You have to crane your neck way back to see the bolt (up and rig... more >>


Location: CO : Kor Show - Location changed...
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 20, 2008

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Comments: The link to the order form (hyperlinked "Tickets are now on sale") was briefly off the site this morning, but it was back on the home page soon afterward. I just heard from someone at the AAC that only about 20 tickets are left for sale online, so it will likely sell out today. Not sure if Neptune has any left. Should be a packed house!


Location: CO : Ticket Information for Kor'...
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 16, 2008

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Comments: Bear in mind that it's not really up to the AAC or Neptune if Kor does a second show. It's quite likely that he wants to do only one show. Hopefully, a larger venue can be arranged.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : The Bruise Collector (5.12a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 7, 2008

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Comments: We thought the right-hand version was about 11d. The eighth bolt is in the middle of the crux and very hard to clip; this lead would be much easier with a long draw or sling already on this bolt. Excellent steep pitch.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Shoshoni Peak : Mass Wasting (5.10b) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 4, 2008

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Comments: The Lowe Route is the pillar to the left of the marked line on the west summit. That line is "Unknown 5.9".


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Shoshoni Peak : Unknown (5.9) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 4, 2008

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Comments: The Lowe-Dieckhoff route takes the pillar to the left. The line marked here is the "Unknown 5.9."


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crag Ranch : Meanwhile (5.12c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 1, 2008

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Comments: The first pitch makes a superb 11b/c route on its own. HIghly recommended. We stemmed past the first couple of bolts, which may or may not have been cheating. Either way, the most fun climbing is liebacking up the steep prow.


Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Higher Calling (5.11d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 25, 2008

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Comments: The second crux on the second pitch is harder than the supposed 11c/d first crux, and the following 20 feet are very pumpy. I saw three people (including me) climb through the first crux no problem and hang on the second. I also think the third pitch is just about as hard as the second. No moves are as difficult, but, as has been said, the pump is relentless. There's still some dangerous loose rock on the third pitch, including one chalked block you really want to use but shouldn't. Best to bela... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Alice : Central Ramp (5.8) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 6, 2008

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Comments: That is, "our" third pitch. We were off-route, but this pitch was on the ramp, at least.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Indian Peaks Wilderness Are... : Apache Peak : Northwest Face (5.7 WI3 M4+ Mod. Snow)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 3, 2008

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Comments: Scott and Allen, thanks for filling in some history on this face. Your comments about scary third-classing reinforce my feeling that the best time to climb these big Indian Peaks faces is in the winter and spring, when snow covers most of the loose rock and the alpine ambiance makes the whole enterprise seem more attractive!

I wish your notes had come sooner. After posting this ascent here, I waited nearly a year for feedback and then submitted a report to the 2008 AAJ claiming the "probable fi... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Alice : Central Ramp (5.8) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 3, 2008

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Comments: Great addition. The confusion on this route (these routes) is partly because there is a technical approach pitch (5.5 chimney or 5.8 corner) that's below either of these route lines and above the various scrambling approaches. If you follow the 5.8 corner, it dumps you right at the base of the red line, which is roughly the route of Central Crack. The Central Ramp is the yellow line. You can climb pretty much anywhere on the lower ramp, with the radiating cracks, at 5.7 or 5.8. (We did two pitch... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Alice : Central Ramp (5.8) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 3, 2008

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Comments: This is closer to the line of the Central Crack. The Central Ramp is well to its right.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Alice : Central Ramp (5.8)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 3, 2008

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Comments: A good route in a great setting. The descriptions here are confusing because nearly everyone seems to have climbed a different line. The main entry above and some of the comments are describing a line much closer to the Central Crack route than Central Ramp. See the July 29, 2008, photo topo on this page.

If you approach via the snow gully or directly up the moderate rock below the route (as we did), the Central Ramp is farther to the right than you would think. The key to finding the route is ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Loch Vale & uphill : Vanquished (Powell Peak) (WI5 M5)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 10, 2008

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Comments: Jack Roberts led a long variation to the first pitch of Vanquished on June 9, 2008. It's the big left-facing corner/chimney just left of the normal start. Moderately difficult mixed ground leads to a poorly protected thin-ice step, followed by strenuous liebacking with hands on rock and feet on thin ice, followed by a weird and insecure groove. The pitch arcs back to the right after the chimney and ends at a fixed anchor on Vanquished, about 120 feet off the ground. Very difficult to rate. Jack ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Loch Vale & uphill : Central Buttress (WI5 M6 Steep Snow R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 15, 2008

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Comments: We know of at least one other party that climbed the direct line through the headwall long before we did. Likely it has been done many times. Great route, likely much better in May than when we did it in April. We had a lot of sugar snow; it would be much more fun (and safer) with firmer snow. —Dougald and Greg.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Andrews Creek & The Gash : ... : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 29, 2008

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Comments: May 20, 2007 photo.


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