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Member Since: Apr 13, 2002
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Dougald MacDonald

Point Rank: # 825
Total Points: 838
Last Year: 22
Last 30 Days: 7
62 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dougald MacDonald been climbing?










Dougald MacDonald

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 514 | Routes 42 | Areas 5 | Photos 33 | Page Improvements | Comments 178 | Posts 67 | Stars 134 | Ratings 55
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Mt Thorodin : Mr. Misty (5.10a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: Agreed that the second pitch is around 5.8+. The third pitch is definitely the crux. Many variations on the final pitch, but be sure to hit the fairly prominent, whitish, left-leaning crack at the top, visible from the belay below. A steep, well-protected, and very cool climax to the pitch.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttresses : Lazy Sunday Route (5.10-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: Very fun half-day route. I recommend doing the second and third pitches short, stopping on good ledges after each 5.10a crux (top of the steep corner on the second, and right after the roof traverse on the third). That way you can watch the second and drop a loop of the lead rope to haul a pack if your second is toting a load. Run the fourth up to the big grass ledge (still not a very long pitch), and then take it to the top on the fifth. Flows really well this way.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : The Opportunist (5.11-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: Might be the best 11a sport climb on the Front Range. It's that good.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Addict's Wall : Addicts (5.10a/b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: At 5'10", this definitely felt like solid 5.10. Fun route.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : ... : Coconut Bliss (M4-5)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: Greg Sievers and I added two pitches to the top of the buttress: a short chimney through a steep rock band (loose getting into the chimney), followed by fun, juggy climbing up the narrowing buttress and a final steep step guarding the trees. We walked off left: down the ridge to a saddle, then back left under the cliff to the foot of the route (only advisable in stable snow). The route would be more fun with more snow, but it was still pretty fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : West Face (5.8 R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Nov 24, 2012

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Comments: Brilliant pitch up to first anchor. Probably R- in danger, assuming a bolt doesn't fail. If you traverse left below the second bolt, it feels a bit hard getting started, but then there are great footholds all the way to the arete. Plus, you've got overhead pro for the hardest moves. It would be a huge public service for someone to replace those first two bolt studs with modern gear.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Juniper Pass : Amphitheater Area : Unknown 5.9 crack (5.9)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: Excellent climbing marred by patches of junky rock and dripping bat poo.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Juniper Pass : Amphitheater Area : Liken I (5.10+ PG13)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: Start this in the crack to the left (just right of Unknown 5.9) for more solid rock. Flows nicely into the first bolt. Superb climbing up the arÍte.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Juniper Pass : Below the Amphitheater : Snow Globe (5.10-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: This is a classy route with several cruxes and a wide variety of climbing. Great find! I think it would be much improved with one more bolt, protecting the moves between the second bolt and the good gear in horizontals about 15 feet higher. Yes, you should be able to place gear off to the right above the second bolt, but it's fiddly and the rock seems a little suspect. With three bolts to start the climb, the route would be perfectly protected all the way up. Beta alert: I placed a yellow C3 aft... more >>


Location: CO : Weston Pass-(Weston Wall)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: This cliff is a hidden gem. The four long routes are the prizes, but it's all fun. Avoid in spring and early summer because of nesting falcons on upper left side. It's also quite warm up there in full sun. Probably best in late summer and early fall.


Location: CO : Weston Pass-(Weston Wall) : Jams and Jugs (5.10d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: Consider stick clipping first bolt from ledge...some very slippery lichen on the delicate moves to the bolt, and a fall would be very ugly. Strenuous final roof!


Location: CO : Weston Pass-(Weston Wall) : Falcon Derby (5.10a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: Crummy rock but pretty fun climbing.


Location: CO : Weston Pass-(Weston Wall) : Flakes and Horns (5.10a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: Somewhat sketchy: only four bolts (not six) and some looseness. A 1.5 inch cam would be nice before the first bolt. But the climbing is steep and fun... felt harder than 10a.


Location: CO : Weston Pass-(Weston Wall) : Seams and Smears (5.11a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: Continuously interesting, with good pro, great rock, and some surprising holds. A handful of finger to thin hand cams are all you need to supplement the bolts.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Ghetto Activity (5.10b/c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 27, 2012

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Comments: Engaging climbing, but there's a very dangerous sharp edge by the last bolt. Be careful with your rope or it could cut in a fall, especially if you're seconding the pitch.

With a few pieces of pro, you can traverse left from the belay ledge and join the upper half of Hip at the Lip (5.10 something) making this a cool two pitch adventure.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Idiot's Roof (5.11b/c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 27, 2012

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Comments: When this route gets just a little cleaner, it will be a genuine classic. Much steeper than it looks from the ground. Wish I had read the beta about going higher than you think in the crack. Tried to exit directly past the bolt. Fail.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Prism (5.9)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 15, 2012

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Comments: Don't let the few feet of grunge at the bottom put you off. This is a fun and well protected route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Scraping By (5.10a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 15, 2012

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Comments: Cutting right to the bolted arÍte after the low crux makes this quite a fun and worthy route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : My Way (5.9)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 8, 2012

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Comments: Sandbag at 5.9., at least by BC standards. Good, engaging route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Colorado Senior Open (5.10-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 8, 2012

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Comments: Best route at Boulder Slips.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Triceratops Tracks (5.10+ R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: Good climbing but would be more enjoyable with a bolt between 1 and 2. As it is, the crux is dangerous.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Tracks are for Kids (5.10)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: Super fun sport climb...definitely the best, and maybe the easiest, on this wall. A bit spicy at the top, but at least any fall would be clean! Many thanks to Terry Murphy, Steve Annecone, Matt Samet, and all the others whose support helped upgrade this hidden gem of a wall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : The Bait (5.11a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 24, 2012

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Comments: I would not call the wired nut for the finish "optional." Seemed essential to me!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Quintet (5.10c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 24, 2012

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Comments: I'd like to hear more about the starts to this route. We started on the left, under the obvious small roofs, and got totally shut down trying to move up under the bigger roof, about 30 feet above the starting ledge. Poor hand holds and no feet...it seemed a lot harder than 5.10. Can someone who has successfully climbed it this way comment? Has anything broken, or am I just weaker than I thought? Wish we had thought to try the other option, starting on the right and moving left at the roof. That ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Pri-Moe (5.10d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 24, 2012

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Comments: Don't let the negative comments put you off. My partner and I both led this and thought it was well- protected and very fun. Perhaps it has just cleaned up a lot.

May 2015 addition: I've done this twice now, and I think it's nearly a 3-star route. Yes, it has some suspect rock entering the crux (don't place gear in the loose, thin crack/pillar thing below the bolt...you can get a bomber #3 Camalot in the slot under the bulge just below this). Most of the route is reasonably clean, and th... more >>


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