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Member Since: Apr 13, 2002
Last Visit: 34 mins ago
Contact Dougald MacDonald


Point Rank: # 772
Total Points: 820
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
56 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dougald MacDonald been climbing?










Dougald MacDonald

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 477 | Routes 42 | Areas 5 | Photos 32 | Page Improvments | Comments 165 | Posts 64 | Stars 124 | Ratings 45
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
The line of Howling Winge on the east face of Aeolian (5.8 A4, 1995).

The line of Howling Winge on the east face of Aeolian (5.8 A4, 1995).

UT : Moab Area : ... : Etesian Hookup (5.9 A2 PG13)

Apr 26, 2007

Sievers on the last hard thin-ice section.

Sievers on the last hard thin-ice section.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Vrain Strain (WI5 M5 R)

Jan 22, 2007

Route line. The black water streak is the normal Hessie Chimney route.

Route line. The black water streak is the normal Hessie Chimney route.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Hessie Left (M5)

Mar 24, 2006

Hessie Left on March 11, 2006. The route continues for another 50 feet or so above the top of this picture.

Hessie Left on March 11, 2006. The route continues for another 50 feet or so above the top of this picture.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Hessie Left (M5)

Mar 23, 2006

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Freeway (5.8)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: I would call this a 5.10 route, with the logical direct finish up the thin and excellent headwall. The easy "second pitch," escaping left after the fun 5.8 corner, seems more like a variation. Done straight up, this is a challenging and fine pitch, with very good pro as long as you can hang around to place it.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Sweet Petite (5.11d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: Very fine route. The rock quality deteriorates in the top third, but it doesn't detract from the overall goodness. Staying right for the boulder problem at the bottom seems the only logical approach and is super-fun. Hang on for a burly finish until the final jug (above the anchor).


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Feline Antics (5.10c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: Best to stick-clip the second bolt.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Southwest Corner (5.10a) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: The purple line is one of the best pitches of alpine rock in the Park. We belayed where the red line starts (nice ledge) and started on red, then cut over to purple after 25 feet or so. This version was very well-protected and 5.8 or so. The short finger crack at the top is also excellent and probably has the hardest moves of the whole climb (5.10), but it can be avoided if you're just trying to get off at that point.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Eldora : Hessie : Hessie Chimney (WI4 M5)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: Erik Rieger and I removed the death block (a long pointed club of stone) on the left wall of the chimney just below the midway stance/ledge on the first pitch. Probably 70 or 80 pounds. Very scary.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Mountaineer's Route (5.9)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 7, 2013

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Comments: We started with the amazing Wafer of Woe variation (the first 5.10 pitch, leading to the second belay on Mtnrs Route). We also did an excellent variation to the sixth pitch, climbing steep cracks to the left of the junky 5.7 corner after the slab, and then traversing about 25 feet right to rejoin the line just below the 5.8/5.9 cracks on the 7th pitch. (Or, maybe this is the route, who knows?) With these variations, this was overall better than Sideline to Astro-Elephant, in our opinion.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Astro Elephant (5.10-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 7, 2013

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Comments: If you want to be clear on the start of AE, print the Sideline topo, which shows the relationship between Astro-Elephant and Sideline very clearly. We were so concerned about the various comments about ending up too far left at the start of AE that we ended up doing Sideline by mistake. If we'd had the topo for the latter, it would have been crystal-clear. Still a great route.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Mt Thorodin : Mr. Misty (5.10a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: Agreed that the second pitch is around 5.8+. The third pitch is definitely the crux. Many variations on the final pitch, but be sure to hit the fairly prominent, whitish, left-leaning crack at the top, visible from the belay below. A steep, well-protected, and very cool climax to the pitch.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttresses : Lazy Sunday Route (5.10-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: Very fun half-day route. I recommend doing the second and third pitches short, stopping on good ledges after each 5.10a crux (top of the steep corner on the second, and right after the roof traverse on the third). That way you can watch the second and drop a loop of the lead rope to haul a pack if your second is toting a load. Run the fourth up to the big grass ledge (still not a very long pitch), and then take it to the top on the fifth. Flows really well this way.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : The Opportunist (5.11-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: Might be the best 11a sport climb on the Front Range. It's that good.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Addict's Wall : Addicts (5.10a/b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: At 5'10" this definitely felt like solid 5.10. Fun route.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Emerald Lake & vicinity : Coconut Bliss (M4-5)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: Greg Sievers and I added two pitches to the top of the buttress: a short chimney through a steep rock band (loose getting into the chimney), followed by fun, juggy climbing up the narrowing buttress and a final steep step guarding the trees. We walked off left: down the ridge to a saddle, then back left under the cliff to the foot of the route (only advisable in stable snow). The route would be more fun with more snow, but it was still pretty fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : West Face (5.8 R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Nov 24, 2012

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Comments: Brilliant pitch up to first anchor. Probably R- in danger, assuming a bolt doesn't fail. If you traverse left below the second bolt, it feels a bit hard getting started, but then there are great footholds all the way to the arete. Plus, you've got overhead pro for the hardest moves. It would be a huge public service for someone to replace those first two bolt studs with modern gear.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Juniper Pass : Amphitheater Area : Unknown 5.9 crack (5.9)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: Excellent climbing marred by patches of junky rock and dripping bat poo.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Juniper Pass : Amphitheater Area : Liken I (5.10+ PG13)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: Start this in the crack to the left (just right of Unknown 5.9) for more solid rock. Flows nicely into the first bolt. Superb climbing up the arÍte.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Juniper Pass : Below the Amphitheater : Snow Globe (5.10-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: This is a classy route with several cruxes and a wide variety of climbing. Great find! I think it would be much improved with one more bolt, protecting the moves between the second bolt and the good gear in horizontals about 15 feet higher. Yes, you should be able to place gear off to the right above the second bolt, but it's fiddly and the rock seems a little suspect. With three bolts to start the climb, the route would be perfectly protected all the way up. Beta alert: I placed a yellow C3 aft... more >>


Location: CO : Weston Pass-(Weston Wall)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: This cliff is a hidden gem. The four long routes are the prizes, but it's all fun. Avoid in spring and early summer because of nesting falcons on upper left side. It's also quite warm up there in full sun. Probably best in late summer and early fall.


Location: CO : Weston Pass-(Weston Wall) : Jams and Jugs (5.10d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: Consider stick clipping first bolt from ledge...some very slippery lichen on the delicate moves to the bolt, and a fall would be very ugly. Strenuous final roof!


Location: CO : Weston Pass-(Weston Wall) : Falcon Derby (5.10a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: Crummy rock but pretty fun climbing.


Location: CO : Weston Pass-(Weston Wall) : Flakes and Horns (5.10a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: Somewhat sketchy: only four bolts (not six) and some looseness. A 1.5 inch cam would be nice before the first bolt. But the climbing is steep and fun... felt harder than 10a.


Location: CO : Weston Pass-(Weston Wall) : Seams and Smears (5.11a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: Continuously interesting, with good pro, great rock, and some surprising holds. A handful of finger to thin hand cams are all you need to supplement the bolts.


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