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Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : The Opportunist (5.11-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Might be the best 11a sport climb on the Front Range. It's that good.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Addict's Wall : Addicts (5.10a/b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: At 5'10" this definitely felt like solid 5.10. Fun route.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Emerald Lake & vicinity : Coconut Bliss (M4-5)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jan 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Greg Sievers and I added two pitches to the top of the buttress: a short chimney through a steep rock band (loose getting into the chimney), followed by fun, juggy climbing up the narrowing buttress and a final steep step guarding the trees. We walked off left: down the ridge to a saddle, then back left under the cliff to the foot of the route (only advisable in stable snow). The route would be more fun with more snow, but it was still pretty fun.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : West Face (5.8 R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Nov 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brilliant pitch up to first anchor. Probably R- in danger, assuming a bolt doesn't fail. If you traverse left below the second bolt, it feels a bit hard getting started, but then there are great footholds all the way to the arete. Plus, you've got overhead pro for the hardest moves. It would be a huge public service for someone to replace those first two bolt studs with modern gear.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Juniper Pass : Amphitheater Area : Unknown 5.9 crack (5.9)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent climbing marred by patches of junky rock and dripping bat poo.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Juniper Pass : Amphitheater Area : Liken I (5.10+ PG13)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Start this in the crack to the left (just right of Unknown 5.9) for more solid rock. Flows nicely into the first bolt. Superb climbing up the arête.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Juniper Pass : Below the Amphitheater : Snow Globe (5.10-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a classy route with several cruxes and a wide variety of climbing. Great find! I think it would be much improved with one more bolt, protecting the moves between the second bolt and the good gear in horizontals about 15 feet higher. Yes, you should be able to place gear off to the right above the second bolt, but it's fiddly and the rock seems a little suspect. With three bolts to start the climb, the route would be perfectly protected all the way up. Beta alert: I placed a yellow C3 aft... more >>
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Location: CO : The Weston Wall
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This cliff is a hidden gem. The four long routes are the prizes, but it's all fun. Avoid in spring and early summer because of nesting falcons on upper left side. It's also quite warm up there in full sun. Probably best in late summer and early fall.
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Location: CO : The Weston Wall : Jams and Jugs (5.10d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Consider stick clipping first bolt from ledge...some very slippery lichen on the delicate moves to the bolt, and a fall would be very ugly. Strenuous final roof!
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Location: CO : The Weston Wall : Falcon Derby (5.10a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crummy rock but pretty fun climbing.
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Location: CO : The Weston Wall : Flakes and Horns (5.10a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Somewhat sketchy: only four bolts (not six) and some looseness. A 1.5 inch cam would be nice before the first bolt. But the climbing is steep and fun... felt harder than 10a.
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Location: CO : The Weston Wall : Seams and Smears (5.11a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Continuously interesting, with good pro, great rock, and some surprising holds. A handful of finger to thin hand cams are all you need to supplement the bolts.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Ghetto Activity (5.10b/c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Engaging climbing, but there's a very dangerous sharp edge by the last bolt. Be careful with your rope or it could cut in a fall, especially if you're seconding the pitch.
With a few pieces of pro, you can traverse left from the belay ledge and join the upper half of Hip at the Lip (5.10 something) making this a cool two pitch adventure.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Idiot's Roof (5.11b/c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: When this route gets just a little cleaner, it will be a genuine classic. Much steeper than it looks from the ground. Wish I had read the beta about going higher than you think in the crack. Tried to exit directly past the bolt. Fail.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Prism (5.9)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't let the few feet of grunge at the bottom put you off. This is a fun and well protected route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Scraping By (5.10a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cutting right to the bolted arête after the low crux makes this quite a fun and worthy route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : My Way (5.9)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sandbag at 5.9., at least by BC standards. Good, engaging route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Colorado Senior Open (5.10-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best route at Boulder Slips.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Triceratops Tracks (5.10+ R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climbing but would be more enjoyable with a bolt between 1 and 2. As it is, the crux is dangerous.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Tracks are for Kids (5.10)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun sport climb...definitely the best, and maybe the easiest, on this wall. A bit spicy at the top, but at least any fall would be clean! Many thanks to Terry Murphy, Steve Annecone, Matt Samet, and all the others whose support helped upgrade this hidden gem of a wall.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : The Bait (5.11a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would not call the wired nut for the finish "optional." Seemed essential to me!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Quintet (5.10c)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd like to hear more about the starts to this route. We started on the left, under the obvious small roofs, and got totally shut down trying to move up under the bigger roof, about 30 feet above the starting ledge. Poor hand holds and no feet...it seemed a lot harder than 5.10. Can someone who has successfully climbed it this way comment? Has anything broken, or am I just weaker than I thought? Wish we had thought to try the other option, starting on the right and moving left at the roof. That ... more >>
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