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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Breashear's Crack II (V3)
By: doug rouse When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Uh..Yeah...IMHO a sandbag at V3. Would you give this only .11c/d if leading it?
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Tornado (V7)
By: doug rouse When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has the Arete gone from a sit start? Seems pretty hard as I kept flying-off of it yesterday. At the time I thought the line was Tornado...until I came back and read the description. I now have to go back to work on this one.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Meet George Jetson (V4)
By: doug rouse When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Returned yesterday with the aforementioned wire brush. The feet are all nice and clean now.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Balancing Act (V4)
By: doug rouse When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really like this problem.... The stretch is very cool. Just hook, and maintain long enough until your body kind of unwinds, and BAM! the Crimp! Deserves more than 2-Stars! A Very Tasty little arete problem with a sit start lies behind this one across the chamber.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Souja Boy Traverse (V2-3) : Photo
By: doug rouse When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do not yard on this hold...it is loose, and the problem can be done without it.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Souja Boy Traverse (V2-3)
By: doug rouse When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem is located within the middle of a nice long warm-up traverse. Start way left where the trail meets the wall on a large undercling flake, and go to the right. Where the "pod" that marks this problem is, you can go low, or straight across at chest height. Finish out to the right on a slab where you step-off onto a knife-edged rock buried in the dirt. As far as the earlier comments regrading first ascents.... Seems a little sketchy when an area is clean as this one is. A sound philosop... more >>
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Meet George Jetson (V4)
By: doug rouse When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know if this has another name, but I took the liberty for the sake of needing a name. Please correct if it is important to you. I need should mention that I found some of the small crimps on the face had been cleaned prior to my ascent, and the line is too obvious to claim a first. Needs more traffic, and a stiff wire brush to clean up the feet some. Well worth doing if you are in the area.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : Mezzanine : Green Energy Traverse (V4)
By: doug rouse When: Sep 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun way to finish is " Sub-atomic " (see photo..L.hand goes up and left to the top, and up Right w/ R.hand etc...).
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : Spike Rock : Finger Dimple (V3)
By: doug rouse When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah..Finger Dimple..sounds like a good name to me..One of my favorites on this rock...I go straight right at the start, and pop the right again to the "dimple".
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag : The Road Less Traveled (5.13a/b)
By: doug rouse When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha Ha..Another funny description... 5.12 climbing with some hard moves in the middle !! Peace
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : Mezzanine : Atomic (V6)
By: doug rouse When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sub Atomic..finishes low along a line of holds/fingerjugs underneath, then moves out right when one can no longer move low. A nice finish to Green Energy that may also bump up the grade.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : Magnum Block : Psuedo Magnum (V4)
By: doug rouse When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Listed as Magnum PI in Horan's guide. I have never heard it called that however. Not much love in there for Morrison crew...no pics...nada....
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : Mezzanine : Cold Fusion (V6)
By: doug rouse When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll have to look for the hook.... I was using a right drop knee on the edge along the lip, and the left underneath on a nice edge. You're right though...it totally needs to be longer....
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : Mezzanine : Atomic (V6)
By: doug rouse When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, this starts from the Geo Thermal holds, only move the hands left.... Right hand on the bigger of the holds, and throw left up to the rail. Long throw that has tossed all of my bouldering buddies so far.... Excavated near the left foot to allow more room now.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Midnight Express (aka CJMD) (V7)
By: doug rouse When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: V8+...I am working on starting it from the Air Jordan start. Brick hard, and certainly will bump up the grade some. Just have to get used to rolling. Do you know if the CJ stands for Chris Jones?
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Magic Johnson (V8)
By: doug rouse When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes!!! Pat was showing this to me today.... Super-gnarly first move!!! My Johnson didn't feel all that magic!
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Midnight Express (aka CJMD) (V7)
By: doug rouse When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ok..I totally remember it going by that now that you mention it.... Seems like V8, especially when the suns been on it....
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Pop goes the weasle (V9)
By: doug rouse When: Jul 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This now can be used as a start for Miss Clairol Hence: Popping Miss Clairol
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Keeping Up With The Joneses (V9)
By: doug rouse When: Jul 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1st Ascent: Chris Jones
Bullet Hard!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Gravity's Angel (5.11b)
By: doug rouse When: Jul 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route, Forbidden Planet, and Blows against the Empire make for a great bunch of 5.11 climbing that are easy to get to, well protected, and high quality. We climbed this one Sunday, and I did not see any rust on the bolts, however; the lichen this year does seem abundant. I would recommend that subsequent parties bring a brush.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Heavy Weather (5.9)
By: doug rouse When: Jul 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congratulations to Korde Broker on his 1st traditional lead on pitch 1 of this route...Hella nice Bro!!!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Home Free (5.11b)
By: doug rouse When: Jul 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wew went up and did this again on Sunday. I was able to protect the first pitch with small stoppers, and RP's. The large flake just before the 1st pitch crux is now loose, and will change the beta when it cuts loose. Still a nice route. 2nd pitch did not seem as tough as it was 15-years ago...
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : Mezzanine : Super Sloper (V5)
By: doug rouse When: Jun 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I added the start to this from My Girlfriends a Tweaker/Geo Thermal, right into the Nodule holds. I am thinking solid at the grade now....
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Location: bhoran : BHhb : Photo
By: doug rouse When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would like to try this...Any beta on where it is?...Please...
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Location: bhoran : BHhb : Photo
By: doug rouse When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wheewww G-Gnarly!
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