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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Warm Up Crack (5.8)
By: Doug Redosh When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One can TR this climb from the anchors on The Mummy, with a #2 Camalot for a directional, then climb the left side of the Mummy for a fun 5.9+.
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Depression (5.10)
By: Doug Redosh When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Still lots of loose rock. The flakes to the L and below the bolt flex. Should clean up with more use, however. No way 5.8+! 10a IMHO, but seems harder due to the sandy nature of the rock.
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Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : SS Minnow (5.7)
By: Doug Redosh When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like many of the easier climbs in the Quarry and East Quarry, a sandbag at the grade of 5.7. If one goes INTO the squeeze chimney to place gear as I did, it is a slithery affair, and should be renamed Watersnake or Eel 5.9. However, one can get thin gear in the crack to the left, and stem back to the back wall of the chimney but never get into it. 5.8. Also, a #3 Camalot is helpful to protect the moves off the ground.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Hook, Line, and Whimper (5.10- R)
By: Doug Redosh When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 11/08/09 We climbed a pitch to the left of p1 of this route, up the obvious crack/corner system (5.9)to an uncomfortable hanging belay 25 feet below the huge yucca. (New route???) We then traversed R (5.8)to the first set of old buttonhead bolts on Hook, Line and Whimper, then followed P2 (difficult pro), to the second set of old buttonheads. We then rapped, using the first bolt on P3 as backup (leaving 4 long slings and 4 biners - free for the taking!) down to the good anchors at the top of... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Get A Life (5.7)
By: Doug Redosh When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 is 5.6 IMHO, has decent rock, and deserves 1 star.
P2 is bogus after the overlap, which is 5.7. Too bad the anchors are not right after the overlap, but then one would not be able to TR the 5.10- to the right.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Drop Zone (5.10b/c)
By: Doug Redosh When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 10 c/d IMHO. Much harder than Learning to Crawl, and only a tad easier than Smack That Bitch Up.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Smack That Bitch Up (5.11c)
By: Doug Redosh When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did the route today.
I thought the crux is getting established on the face above the overlap, i.e. just below the climber, Mark Roth, in the picture.
Cool moves throughout the climb. Very windy on a day like today, however.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak... : Unknown Left Variation (5.8)
By: Doug Redosh When: Oct 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the bulge at the top is awkward. 5.9 IMHO.
One could also start this route with the 4 bolts on the blunt arete to the right of the tree scar.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Bear's Choice (5.10 PG13)
By: Doug Redosh When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is very easy to bail out right to the 5.8 climb at the overhang, therefore it seemed a bit contrived. Otherwise, a nice route. Good movement above the hang as well, and the lower moves off the ground felt 9/10ish.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Cut Loose (5.11)
By: Doug Redosh When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am 6'2" and still had trouble. Wear pants for this one, as it is a knee scratcher.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Nude Buttress : Brainwashed (5.9)
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That 2 bolt anchor for the descent is actually the top of P1 of Cruising in the Nude 5.7
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Turkey Rock Area : Smoked Turkey (5.10a)
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is getting off the ground. The rest is 5.8, with the top moves at 5.9. 3.5 stars.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Turkey Rock Area : The Nose of Turkey Rock (5.8)
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: P2 is 5.4 at most, not 5.6 as in the guidebook. Still is fun!
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Nude Buttress : Cruisin' in the Nude (5.7+)
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We rapped from the bolts at the top of first pitch, while descending Brainstorm, then TR'ed P1. I found it dirty, with loose rock on the ledges.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Iraqi Road (5.6)
By: Doug Redosh When: May 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route just right of Deck Chairs is Killian's Dead. This route is about 50 feet to the left.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Iraqi Road (5.6)
By: Doug Redosh When: May 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: CAUTION: there is a large, loose block at the very top of the climb. It should be trundled, which I would have done, were there not people below.
Also, I was unable to retrieve a small cam at the crux crack. Do not clip, as it is not cammed, rather just sitting deep in the crack. A very thin hand might be able to get it out, but not my nut tool.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Belly Up (5.6)
By: Doug Redosh When: Apr 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lower crack is 5.2; upper move is 5.5 IMHO. Don't need a #4 camelot as can protect in the corner crack. Once protected, just step up to right to Heidi Hi anchors.
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall
By: Doug Redosh When: Jan 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, looking at the Jeffco Open Space Map as per Brian M's comment in Aug. 2008, ANY approach that starts at the CO 58 onramp crosses private land. Will try his approach next time.
Also, the routes listed below The Mummy, currently starting with Natural Born Topropers, are on a separate buttress about 250 yards to the east, reachable by trail. Toprope anchors are a bit more challenging to find on the left side of the wall.
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall
By: Doug Redosh When: Jan 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The approach trail as pictured in the new guidebook, is not accurate. There is a route here, but is much steeper and made of game trails. The trail as described in the body of the report above is a good sustainable trail. Have not tried the approach as described above in the comments section.
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : The Bowels (5.8-)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jan 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Far harder than 5.8- as are the other supposedly 5.8 - 5.9 climbs in this area, or maybe I am weak and old.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Scout Slab : Git 'em Up Scout (5.9)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quality route for the grade, I thought 5.8. Well bolted. Not much road noise as opposed to most of the other climbs on Scout Rock that are right on the road.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Overflow
By: Doug Redosh When: Mar 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun area, though it looks like it might lie at the bottom of an avalanche run. Has not been recent activity as there are big trees at the top, but above it lie tiny trees.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road
By: Doug Redosh When: Feb 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: By "town" in the description, I assume this means Ouray?
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Clear Creek Canyon - Ice : Little Eiger area - ice
By: Doug Redosh When: Feb 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Could someone who knows the area add a clear description of the LOCATION of these lines?
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Location: CO : Steamboat Springs
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There appear to be some basalt cliffs 100 feet in height, to the the NW of the Yampa, 0.5 miles below the dam for Stagecoach Reservoir.
Anyone know anything about this area?
Doug Redosh
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