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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Lost Temple : The Doom (5.11)
By: Doug Hemken When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Dave S. did both: had to work Doom, but got Fate first try.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Lost Temple : The Doom (5.11)
By: Doug Hemken When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I've never completed this one either, but judging from those I've watched do it, I'd guess its 5.11.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Bill's Buttress : Cheatah (5.10b)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Andy, you *could* stop and belay your partner up to that point, then unrope and just scramble off. The 5.7 corner behind the pine tree isn't too exposed. You should double-check that this is what your partner really has in mind before you commit him to it. (Just giving you a hard time!)
If you are setting up a TR, it's fun to hang the rope out over the nose and finish the route that way, for the sake of the big dynamic moves to jugs and the exposure.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Gargantua (5.10b)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't read this if you are interested in an on-sight.
If you look at Nathan E's photo sequence, and replace his heel hook with a toe, then rock onto that toe (move your whole body and your hands much further right), then its a tenish move. No way I climb 5.12.
In 1970 this was considered an F9 !
I think the difficulty is that most people do not see this on-sight (at least I didn't), and tackling it straight on is harder by about the degree suggested here.
Tarantula is a much more natural... more >>
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Jewel Pinnacle : Diamond in the Crack (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the late 70s we used to hike out to this spot from Chimney Top road. It was considered a real test of your "Gorge sense" to be able to thread your way across the ridges to find it!
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Tower Rock : Salad Days (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thirty years ago I think I had 3 or 4 Friends (rigid stem) on my rack, in the 1-2 inch size. I would have had a #11 hex for big gear. We were using tube chocks in those days - among 6-8 of us we had one set we passed around. But I doubt I had them for this route, because the three of us did it as a spur of the moment thing. Only time I ever climbed it.
Back then Tower Rock was still a very popular place to crag, and "Caver's" and "Mighty Eidson" were first climbs for scores of beginne... more >>
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Tower Rock : Salad Days (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had forgotten Jeff had an FA in the Gorge! Also, Tom Philbin was part of the team: the name was suggested by something he said.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : Birdhunter Buttress (5.9) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm pretty sure I was inside the chimney, there (and sans pack).
Nice photo, btw.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Railroad Amphitheater : Pine Tree Step-Across (5.6 R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic Devils Lake!
The technical crux could come low, depending upon exactly which variation you take on the lower face. The gear down low is finicky; you'll find a fixed pin on the left side of the face about 1/3 of the way up.
There is gear (orange metolius cam) in the horizontal crack below the crux, but it needs to be set just right.
The crux is height/wingspan/flexibility/patience -dependent!
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Location: OR : Burnt River Canyon : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great smile! The climbing must be a lot of fun there!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Hawk's Nest : Charybdis (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The piton that used to be 15 feet up, where the route cuts up the right slanting crack, is no longer there.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Cracking Up (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route yet again, recently. Two pieces of Big Gear is a good idea.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Middle Teton : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the South side of Middle
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rather than rapping down one of those nasty gullies, you should consider doing the walk off:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/nevada/red_rock/pine_creek_>>>>>
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Middle Teton : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great light, John!
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! We used (& needed) axes and crampons on the Valhalla just 10 days ago!
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice. The yellow in the foreground against the blue of the sky really makes the rest of the image pop.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Brother : Absolutely Free, Center (5.9) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It might be confusing the way I've marked the belays here: the "xx" just means that's where you belay, there are no bolts.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Twenty feet? Must have been a lead fall? Not a good place to hit the ground ....
The media (and everyone, really) often has a problem hearing "not a designated-use area" (note the hyphen). The WDNR manages areas that have designated uses, like trails and campgrounds, and also areas that have no designated use. The distinction if VERY important, because under State liability law, the WDNR must maintain areas which have designated uses so that they are safe for those uses. They have to clea... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Canyon : Windy Peak : Hot Fudge Thursday (5.9 R) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Head West, I think.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alex,
The trash at the "New" didn't help (and Dave Timberlake very quickly cleaned that up for everyone), but I think what got us in Almerli's crosshairs was that he found a dead rattler hung from a limb on the trail going up to the "Old" (no way to know if that was even due to a climber or not). And for the DNR's part, I think they were just caught by surprise at how extensive the user trails are at both the "Old" and the "New."
Ultimately, the only real contribution the DLFA and the CMC mad... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No bees on the Original Route. A worthwhile variation after you have done the Classic variation a time or two.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arrowhead Arete : Arrowhead Spire (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had mixed feeling about doing this route a couple of years ago. Didn't like the climbing all that much, but loved the position and the rappel over to Arrowhead Arete. Do it for the adventure.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Brother : Absolutely Free, Center (5.9)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 and P3 (P4 in Reid) are good, P2 (P2 & P3 in Reid) is great! The 4th class approach and top-out are nice: they keep the riff-raff away.
I would compare this to the Northeast Face of Lower Cathedral Spire, another "former classic" that I really enjoyed.
Take two pieces in the 4-5 inch range.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake
By: Doug Hemken When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think you mean "style" (or lack of style), not "ethics."
I think it just goes to show you that the people committed to lead climbing at the Lake have always been a small minority (40 years!) ... and thank you so much, Kris, for generating new/renewed enthusiasm for leading around here.
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