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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Original Fantasy Ridge (5.6)
By: Doug Dakins When: Aug 9, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second pitch is a classic, for its grade. Too bad it is not steeper. A good warm up to the upper 5.9 pitches.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Cajun Capers (5.7 R)
By: Doug Dakins When: Jan 12, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 3 and 4 are good pitches and it is [definitely] recommended (IMO) to finish with Cajun rather than [Last Gasp].
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : East Ridge (5.8)
By: Doug Dakins When: Oct 7, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route. You can do Cackle crack 1st than walk 40 feet and start East Ridge. You could probable do any route on Hen and Chickens as a 1st pitch. That TCU or small nut through the roof may be a bit mis-leading the roof is very well protected (#1 or ..75 Camalot)
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Lens Rock : Tennis Shoe Tango (5.6)
By: Doug Dakins When: Oct 7, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The steep headwall is a nice way to finish the route. The 10-15 foot crack up the headwall is 5.7. With a 60m rope you can do all of TST in one pitch and belay on a pedestal at the top of the headwall. From the pedestal you can scramble off and join the normal descent route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Great Zot (5.8+)
By: Doug Dakins When: Jul 25, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! lots of comments. Perhaps somebody can comment on this. It is my belief the bolts that AC refers to are sanctioned by the ELDO bolt committee. It seems in recent years that a number of routes have had rap bolts installed. This seems fine to me it protects the trees that for years have been the rap anchors and are showing signs of wear and tear. I do not remember any living trees in the west chimney. There are some near the top off to one side. I once rapped the bottom 150 feet of the ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Mainliner (5.9)
By: Doug Dakins When: Jul 1, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route mid-June. An outstanding Lumpy crack climb. The cracks are not flared, but good and secure. The 3rd pitch has two short sections of 5.9. I'm 6'6" and with my wing span the opposing dihedral stem felt pretty easy. My shorter wife had a much harder time with this. The 2nd 5.9 is a great finger crack thru a bulge. We did the east saddle descent.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Grapevine (5.8+)
By: Doug Dakins When: Jul 1, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great route! The phrase of the day was when we did it "be wary of 1965 5.6 Kor chimneys." That thing is difficult. It has good pro. You may want to save a bigger piece for the top. The chimney pitch of Kor's Flake is much easier IMO. The rest of the pitches are outstanding. Great crack climbing. My favorites were pitches 1 and 4. The two 8+ pitches. Pitch 4 through the roof/overlap is really great Lumpy climbing. We did Mainliner the weekend after Grapevine. I lead every pitch of bo... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Cajun Capers (5.7 R)
By: Doug Dakins When: Jul 1, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have done this route several times and it is always fun. We have started pitch 1 just beyond the large roof. Maybe 10 feet left of end of the roof/black cavity is a small roof/step with a crack in it. The roof is maybe 10 feet off the ground. Climb this until the crack fades. Head left up easy rock towards another roof. After maybe 20 feet head right than up into the roof. Turn the roof using a great finger crack. Go up easy rock and belay. This pitch feels like easy 5.7. I also have d... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : McGregor Slab : Direct (5.7)
By: Doug Dakins When: Apr 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route (or a variation of it) last summer. We climbed a fun roof above the 4th pitch at maybe 5.8. We started our 4th pitch from a small ledge above an easy face (sounds similar to Leo's description. Our 2nd pitch went slightly right through a small roof above the old manky bolt than back left into the left-facing dihedral and basically up onto a slab - full 60M pitch to a ledge system.) Look up and to the left and locate a 10-15 foot triangle looking roof. Angle up and left to the b... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Nightime Madness (5.7)
By: Doug Dakins When: Mar 29, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: DO the the 5.8 variation. It is only 5.8 for a short section and has good pro. The rest of the route is pretty good. Midway up the second pitch I went left and did a 8+ variation that I thought was hard. The last pitch is confusing from the topo. We did a deep chimney finish that seemed harder as you go up (pro disappears for a while) - could be I was tired. I think the chimney we finished in is the last pitch of old tom. maybe not?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Long John to V... : Long John Wall (5.8)
By: Doug Dakins When: Mar 29, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots of comments. You can also do the first part of Break on Through to add another pitch of 5.8 to the route.
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