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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Nook's Rock : That Flakes It (V?) : Photo
By: doug rouse When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: In this photo, there is a boulder in the background, to which I referred comments on the Jim Hall traverse. Anyway, it has a very nice sitting roof, that starts with a right hand to an undercling. V5ish, and a ton of fun!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Nook's Rock : Jim Hall Traverse (V4-5)
By: doug rouse When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This climbs nicely, V4 though. There is a nice boulder sitting 25' or so North of the beginning that has a nice V5 roof on it, and another just uphill 20' South that is probably V7 or harder out a needle-like prow. Tons of overhanging climbing in this area and rarely crowded!
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : Sharpe's Arete (aka Thirsty... (5.12a)
By: doug rouse When: Feb 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe this is Sharpe's Arete. I was up there about a year ago, and the middle bolt was missing.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Bouldering (mile marker 268... : Illness Boulders : Stanley Kubrick (V11)
By: doug rouse When: Feb 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm curious if there is any info on the line out the roof from the same start, past a jug, then out left (to the East). It appears to be chalked up, and even doable...while standing around looking at it!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff
By: doug rouse When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A large area has recently been closed just North of King Conquer. The area was previously posted closed from Feb -to-August for raptors I assume. Anyway, A recenly re-discovered proj from the early '90s (Chip Phillips lists this as the "Forgotten Boulder"), is now reached only by hopping a newly created fence, along with numerous saplings laid across the unobtrusive trail. No notices have been posted on this closure, other than the fence and saplings? The boulder in question was "on this side" o... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Nook's Rock : Window Shopper (V12)
By: doug rouse When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice video! I became inspired, went out and still couldn't pull my ass off the ground!
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : The Subterranean Wall (A.K....
By: doug rouse When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My son Trevor and I have been up to the Dragon's Den a few times in the past couple of weeks, and we have cleaned and sent a few nice slab lines. Two are located on the wall "behind" the main wall (across a 100' meadow, etc. On the left end of the wall, there is a nice, tall, .10a or so face, and a V3 face near the right end. On the North face of the Den Proper, we have cleaned a nice V3 slab, and a V2 traverse. All are nice if you don't regularly send super-hard or are with children.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Nook's Rock : Butt Slammer (V10+)
By: doug rouse When: Jul 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am interested in the right to left traverse under Butt Slammer. It appears to share the start, but goes left across a heinous crimper, a small pocket, and out to the left arete..Any beta out there?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Nook's Rock : Westside Traverse (V5)
By: doug rouse When: Mar 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A spotter at the tree...muy bueno!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Nook's Rock : Window Shopper (V12)
By: doug rouse When: Mar 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: They will place a pad under the start, fail to get their ass off the ground, and then move on!
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Buttery Justice (V10+)
By: doug rouse When: Jul 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! that sounds really cool. I can remember thinking that area was devoid of lines.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : SDS (V6)
By: doug rouse When: Apr 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with the above comment. Using the heel hook start, this is pretty moderate. Too bad it isn't longer. V3-ish with left heel on at the start.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Making Waves (V4)
By: doug rouse When: Apr 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A nice tasty line.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : Spike Rock : Magic Trick (V5)
By: doug rouse When: Mar 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would imagine it would go left as well. I kinda like the left finish better anyway.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : Spike Rock : Aretable Bowel Syndrome ABS (V4)
By: doug rouse When: Mar 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good problem. I start both hands on the jug under, and pop out to the arete. Further, after setting the hook, you can go all the way to the top. I haven't seen to top out to the right before. Sweet!
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Lobby : The Pipeline (V4 X)
By: doug rouse When: Nov 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice! More of a solo! Hey Matt, I believe that is called Twist and SHout...Rufus's Pipeline is a line just a couple of feet left of AHR, and probably goes at V8-ish. A line of super small crimps that share the topout with AHR. Regardless of names, etc., HUGE Props for sending a scary line! Young Doug.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Tornado (V7)
By: doug rouse When: Nov 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ok...I looked at the above photo. Has this gone without the right hand? I.e. going straight up the arete from a sit?
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : Mezzanine : Cold Fusion (V5)
By: doug rouse When: Jun 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was up there with Bob W. Rufus M, and "old" Doug..all of them seemed to think the problem was underrated at V5.... The lower arete hold has changed...it is now smaller, and harder to squeeze. The biggest problem still seemed to be in getting off the ground. A new variant is being worked that goes right from the starting holds, to the vertical rail, and up and right to a sloper. Should be pretty heinous when it goes.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Miss Clairol (V7-8)
By: doug rouse When: Apr 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe V8+ if started from "Pop"...Popping Miss Clairol.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Crank Like an Egyptian aka.... (V7)
By: doug rouse When: Apr 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a V9 people! Twinam called this V6.... So, I am thinking solid at V7!!!
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : The Eggs : The Non Eggs : ... : Photo
By: doug rouse When: Apr 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've been looking for this (Non-Eggs). Rufus brought me up here last fall. Do you have any info on the hanging Arete approx. 20' or so left of you? Some totally sloping moves, with a friction smear at the top?
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Sweet Nectar aka Meet Georg... (V4) : Photo
By: doug rouse When: Apr 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A nice little bit of face climbing!
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Low Hanging Melons (V2)
By: doug rouse When: Apr 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: George is now Sweet Nectar.... Sit start in crack, up crack to reach left to hole, then proceed up and left on small holds to a nice finishing jug when you really need it!
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Sweet Nectar aka Meet Georg... (V4)
By: doug rouse When: Apr 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet Nectar! Thanks for checking in Paul, I believe we are talking about the same line...as the rock behind was available to bail on...although still with some degree of committment. The face above with the offset above the small roof looks like fun. Big reach out of a hole.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Center Route (V10)
By: doug rouse When: Mar 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I need to add...the first hold is the crimp, not the undercling that is frequently used and previously modified. The photo of Brian shows him using the correct hold (potato peeler). Doing it using the undercling is probably hard V8.
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