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Member Since: May 19, 2002
Last Visit: Apr 9, 2014
Contact Doug Redosh


Point Rank: # 2,193
Total Points: 231
Last Year: 2
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Contributions


All (222) | Routes (8) | Areas (1) | Photos (3) | Comments (121) | Posts (4) | Stars (39) | Ratings (46)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : East Face Right/Der Zerkle (5.7)
By: Doug Redosh When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Did this yesterday. It looks like a hold might have broken off on the beginning of the second pitch, perhaps making it harder. It is unprotected 5.7 - 8 to that point where one can get a small TCU into a undercling. The layback itself is comparably easy.
Also, there is a nice new 2 bolt anchor on the summit for a 70 foot rappel. There is no need to downclimb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : East Face Left Side (5.6)
By: Doug Redosh When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: From the cave, it is pretty obvious to head straight up the gully to a stance 20 feet below the notch for a belay. Then head up and right onto the SE face of the middle tower for a short but fun 5.5 pitch to the summit. Also one can get good pro below the bolt, which I did not see until it was 1 foot from my nose!


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : Sharpe's Arete (aka Thirsty... (5.12a)
By: Doug Redosh When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: Andrew, it seems that you are referring to "Z is last...", at least your description matches that. It is listed on this website.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : The Nautilus Cave Pitch (5.10)
By: Doug Redosh When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: The footholds have definitely become very polished over the last few years. My feet slipped at around the first bolt, leaving me hanging by my hands a la Wil E. Coyote (sp?), giving me a nice gash in my index finger that took some direct pressure to stop!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Mungajerry (5.10a)
By: Doug Redosh When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: The top move is 10a - 10b IMHO, but I have had a few months off from climbing. I wonder if a small hold broke off between 2005 and now. Much harder than the other 9s on the cliff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Fist or Hippo Head : East Face/Hippo Head (5.6)
By: Doug Redosh When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: We did this today in 3 pitches. Fun outing! The crux (5.7 - 5.8) is crossing a gully about 130 feet up. One can belay just before it.
We got all 3 of us on the summit. The last person had a mostly protected downclimb off the summit block by throwing the rope over a large boulder.
There is a large hex and a large tricam with some slings for a rappel anchor at the top of a 5.7 crack on the west face 15 feet south of the summit block. Look over the edge and you will see them. One can then TR th... more >>


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : Mount Royal (near Frisco) : Aces High (5.10-)
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: Just to be more clear, this is the variation that is shown on the picture of the headwall on the Royal Flush description. i.e. it is an alternative to pitches 13 and 14 of Royal Flush. It does NOT start down near the bike path.

That said, it is a great pitch, and definitely the hardest and most sustained, when combined with the rest of Royal Flush. Part of the spice for us came with the wind that kicked up right at the crux, for both of us! I suspect that is a windy spot much of the time, as i... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Grocery Store Walls : Teething Biscuit (5.10a)
By: Doug Redosh When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: Our favorite route of the day on our first visit to Castlewood.
The bolts are good but are below the summit a little bit. One can easily tie off to a tree 10 feet back.


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : White Cliff : Czech Cashing (5.11d)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: One can avoid the 11d roof and "Czech out" the upper face by coming in from Funky Gunky after the 2nd bolt. This makes a nice linkup, with some thoughtful face climbing.


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : White Cliff : Funky Gunky (5.9+)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: Easier than it looks, though be careful clipping the first bolt.
One can also jog left after the 2nd bolt to hit the upper section of Czech Cashing, thereby avoiding the 11d roof.


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : White Cliff : Rufies (5.7+)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: A bit easier than Zebra, nice route. A good warmup.


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : White Cliff : Zebra (5.8+)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: Nice route. one can set an anchor for the belayer with some large cams - #4.5 or so. Crux is between 3rd and 4th bolt. Felt a bit hard for 7+, or maybe it was my first climb on this rock.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : "Is Our Children Learning?" (5.9+)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 10, 2011

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Comments: Agree about potential of both climber and belayer tumbling onto the highway. One can place cams (0.5 -0.75) in the horizontal crack before the first bolt, and tie a 15' piece of rope (or the end of your 2nd rope) to them for the belayer, and first piece for the leader if desired, then back clean to avoid rope drag. Ditto re: some loose rock that will go down to the highway.



Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Sea Cliffs of North Quarry : Send Friend (5.8)
By: Doug Redosh When: Nov 22, 2010

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Comments: If one stops at the anchor, the rock is very good. Only rotten above that.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Air Head (5.10a/b)
By: Doug Redosh When: Nov 1, 2010

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Comments: This has cleaned up considerably over the years. There is now only one semi-loose flake, almost at the top, that is avoidable.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 25, 2010

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Comments: Agree with comments above re the strenuous nature, though on a beautiful feature. Even my usually very strong partner, Al, who climbs at Indian Creek frequently, thought so. We used lots of pieces in the #2 - #3 Cam range, though midsize nuts work in some places as well - don't leave them home! 60m rope works well with the raps as described above by mzellman.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : The Broadmoor (5.10b)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 27, 2010

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Comments: Great route! Very continuous, one of the most continous climbs I have ever done. Every move is 5.8 - 5.9 or harder, except for the top of P3.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Punkin Puss & Mushmouse aka... (5.9+)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 24, 2010

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Comments: The bolts are not at the best rests. I thought a bit hard for the grade. 10a.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Mounty (5.7)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 16, 2010

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Comments: 8 years later, and I still think it is hard to protect the crux crack. I used a #1 cam up high, but it felt insecure. The good news is that there are bomber handholds once one makes the insecure move.
A #3 or 4 cam at 10 feet works well, too.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Downsizing (5.9-)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 16, 2010

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Comments: Opening moves more like 5.7 than 5.5. top is 10b IMHO. Bottom is not so chossy, maybe it has cleaned up over the last few years? Some loose rock on ledge.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Playin' Hooky (5.8)
By: Doug Redosh When: May 20, 2010

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Comments: Would clarify. It really climbs the first 2 1/2 pitches of Solid Gold. P3: climb up and left following bolts to the grassy ledge and a 2 bolt anchor - 50 feet.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon
By: Doug Redosh When: May 19, 2010

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Comments: WARNING: The cops are out in force in CCC. I got a $170/4 point speeding ticket doing 55 mph (the speed limit is 40 mph which seems awfully slow). The cop told us that there are 4 state patrollers there every day, due to complaints about speeders.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rebel Wall : Make It So (5.11 PG13)
By: Doug Redosh When: May 5, 2010

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Comments: The guidebook shows it going L at the third bolt. One could presumably place some gear behind the flake going that way. We TR'ed it from the anchors above to the R, which are visible from the ground, but not when one is traversing to these anchors from 2/3's up Body English, as Leo did. Going this way, up and R, is definitely solid 5.11. Moving past the 1st bolt is 10c or harder IMHO.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rebel Wall : Southpaw (5.9+)
By: Doug Redosh When: May 5, 2010

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Comments: Bottom is trickier than it looks. The holds work best if you lean to the R. The crux is moving up to the "blocky overhang". 10a/b.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rebel Wall
By: Doug Redosh When: Apr 26, 2010

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Comments: For the approach, ignore the first cairn when walking upriver from the Rebel boulder; walk another 100 feet up the road to a second cairn. Follow cairned trail to wall, but go L and up to next higher ledge, which is where the climbs start.


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