Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: May 19, 2002
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Doug Redosh


Point Rank: # 2,255
Total Points: 235
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Doug Redosh been climbing?










Contributions


All 230 | Routes 8 | Areas 1 | Photos 3 | Page Improvments | Comments 125 | Posts 4 | Stars 40 | Ratings 49
Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Nurse Shark (5.9-)
By: Doug Redosh When: May 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There are 2 hidden holds in the middle section. 10-.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Hammerhead (5.9+)
By: Doug Redosh When: May 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I could not even get off the ground on this climb. Cannot comment on the upper section. No way a 9+, especially compared to the main crag at North Table.
10+ IMHO.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Sea Robin (5.8)
By: Doug Redosh When: May 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: It may feel like 5.8 if you just spent a week at Indian Creek. I followed this yesterday and it is strenuous. My partner, who leads 5.9 trad, even had a hard time on this. The traverse is 5.8 and the upper crack is 5.9. On the initial crack/corner, one can get some decent assist holds out to the left and up to the R up higher. 10a IMHO, especially if you compare to other crack climbs at North Table.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Finger Flatiron : Mere Wall (5.8)
By: Doug Redosh When: May 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did this again yesterday for the first time in 11 years. Maybe I am getting older, but first pitch seemed more like 5.7 and P2 more like 5.9.
Belay spot is at a good stance at a crack that angles up and right. The route continues left however. Once on the summit ridge, there are obvious belay slings to the right. However, if one goes left about 15 feet (4th class, exposed), the anchors for Nude Figures in a Hollow Fruit are seen, which is a cool toprope.
Would agree with Leo, 2 stars, as t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : East Face Right/Der Zerkle (5.7)
By: Doug Redosh When: Oct 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Did this yesterday. It looks like a hold might have broken off on the beginning of the second pitch, perhaps making it harder. It is unprotected 5.7 - 8 to that point where one can get a small TCU into a undercling. The layback itself is comparably easy.
Also, there is a nice new 2 bolt anchor on the summit for a 70 foot rappel. There is no need to downclimb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : East Face Left Side (5.6)
By: Doug Redosh When: Oct 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: From the cave, it is pretty obvious to head straight up the gully to a stance 20 feet below the notch for a belay. Then head up and right onto the SE face of the middle tower for a short but fun 5.5 pitch to the summit. Also one can get good pro below the bolt, which I did not see until it was 1 foot from my nose!


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : Sharpe's Arete (aka Thirsty... (5.12a)
By: Doug Redosh When: Apr 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Andrew, it seems that you are referring to "Z is last...", at least your description matches that. It is listed on this website.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : The Nautilus Cave Pitch (5.10)
By: Doug Redosh When: Apr 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The footholds have definitely become very polished over the last few years. My feet slipped at around the first bolt, leaving me hanging by my hands a la Wil E. Coyote (sp?), giving me a nice gash in my index finger that took some direct pressure to stop!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Mungajerry (5.10a)
By: Doug Redosh When: Apr 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The top move is 10a - 10b IMHO, but I have had a few months off from climbing. I wonder if a small hold broke off between 2005 and now. Much harder than the other 9s on the cliff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Fist or Hippo Head : East Face/Hippo Head (5.6)
By: Doug Redosh When: Oct 29, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: We did this today in 3 pitches. Fun outing! The crux (5.7 - 5.8) is crossing a gully about 130 feet up. One can belay just before it.
We got all 3 of us on the summit. The last person had a mostly protected downclimb off the summit block by throwing the rope over a large boulder.
There is a large hex and a large tricam with some slings for a rappel anchor at the top of a 5.7 crack on the west face 15 feet south of the summit block. Look over the edge and you will see them. One can then TR th... more >>


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : Mount Royal (near Frisco) : Aces High (5.10-)
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 22, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Just to be more clear, this is the variation that is shown on the picture of the headwall on the Royal Flush description. i.e. it is an alternative to pitches 13 and 14 of Royal Flush. It does NOT start down near the bike path.

That said, it is a great pitch, and definitely the hardest and most sustained, when combined with the rest of Royal Flush. Part of the spice for us came with the wind that kicked up right at the crux, for both of us! I suspect that is a windy spot much of the time, as i... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Grocery Store Walls : Teething Biscuit (5.10a)
By: Doug Redosh When: Nov 14, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Our favorite route of the day on our first visit to Castlewood.
The bolts are good but are below the summit a little bit. One can easily tie off to a tree 10 feet back.


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : White Cliff : Czech Cashing (5.11d)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 14, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: One can avoid the 11d roof and "Czech out" the upper face by coming in from Funky Gunky after the 2nd bolt. This makes a nice linkup, with some thoughtful face climbing.


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : White Cliff : Funky Gunky (5.9+)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 14, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Easier than it looks, though be careful clipping the first bolt.
One can also jog left after the 2nd bolt to hit the upper section of Czech Cashing, thereby avoiding the 11d roof.


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : White Cliff : Rufies (5.7+)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 14, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: A bit easier than Zebra, nice route. A good warmup.


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : White Cliff : Zebra (5.8+)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 14, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Nice route. one can set an anchor for the belayer with some large cams - #4.5 or so. Crux is between 3rd and 4th bolt. Felt a bit hard for 7+, or maybe it was my first climb on this rock.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : "Is Our Children Learning?" (5.9+)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 10, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Agree about potential of both climber and belayer tumbling onto the highway. One can place cams (0.5 -0.75) in the horizontal crack before the first bolt, and tie a 15' piece of rope (or the end of your 2nd rope) to them for the belayer, and first piece for the leader if desired, then back clean to avoid rope drag. Ditto re: some loose rock that will go down to the highway.



Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Sea Cliffs of North Quarry : Send Friend (5.8)
By: Doug Redosh When: Nov 22, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: If one stops at the anchor, the rock is very good. Only rotten above that.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Air Head (5.10a/b)
By: Doug Redosh When: Nov 1, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: This has cleaned up considerably over the years. There is now only one semi-loose flake, almost at the top, that is avoidable.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 25, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Agree with comments above re the strenuous nature, though on a beautiful feature. Even my usually very strong partner, Al, who climbs at Indian Creek frequently, thought so. We used lots of pieces in the #2 - #3 Cam range, though midsize nuts work in some places as well - don't leave them home! 60m rope works well with the raps as described above by mzellman.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : The Broadmoor (5.10b)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 27, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Great route! Very continuous, one of the most continous climbs I have ever done. Every move is 5.8 - 5.9 or harder, except for the top of P3.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Punkin Puss & Mushmouse aka... (5.9+)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 24, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: The bolts are not at the best rests. I thought a bit hard for the grade. 10a.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Mounty (5.7)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 16, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: 8 years later, and I still think it is hard to protect the crux crack. I used a #1 cam up high, but it felt insecure. The good news is that there are bomber handholds once one makes the insecure move.
A #3 or 4 cam at 10 feet works well, too.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Downsizing (5.9-)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 16, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Opening moves more like 5.7 than 5.5. top is 10b IMHO. Bottom is not so chossy, maybe it has cleaned up over the last few years? Some loose rock on ledge.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Playin' Hooky (5.8)
By: Doug Redosh When: May 20, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Would clarify. It really climbs the first 2 1/2 pitches of Solid Gold. P3: climb up and left following bolts to the grassy ledge and a 2 bolt anchor - 50 feet.


Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>