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Member Since: May 19, 2002
Last Visit: Nov 8, 2014
Contact Doug Redosh


Point Rank: # 2,317
Total Points: 241
Last Year: 11
Last 30 Days: 3
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Doug Redosh been climbing?










Contributions


All 236 | Routes 8 | Areas 1 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 131 | Posts 4 | Stars 40 | Ratings 49
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Play Pen : Toy Box (5.10b/c)
By: Doug Redosh When: Nov 8, 2014

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Comments: 10c. The new guidebook gives this a 10a, but 2/3 of us felt that this was the hardest of the 5 climbs here. Tricky stem with thin finger holds in the crack. You have to get your left foot up pretty high.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Play Pen : Toy Box (5.10b/c) : Photo
By: Doug Redosh When: Nov 8, 2014

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Comments: I am one move below the crux, actually.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Play Pen : Recess (5.10c)
By: Doug Redosh When: Nov 8, 2014

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Comments: 10c/d. The new guidebook rates this, and the climb to the left, as 10a and the easiest of the 4 bolted routes. I thought this climb was the hardest, at least the pumpiest of the 5 routes currently here.


Location: CO : Silver Plume : West Slabs : Unknown 2nd 9 (5.9)
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 9, 2014

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Comments: Nice pitch!! 2.5 stars! I never saw the piton. Maybe it is gone.


Location: CO : Silver Plume : West Slabs : Hwan Kap (5.9)
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 9, 2014

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Comments: The vision and the lead on this was all Leo. Thanks for the birthday greetings.
On the descent, one can unrope for all of it until just below the rap anchors. Then it is 10 feet of 5.1 slab, but with some exposure.


Location: CO : Silver Plume : West Slabs : Unknown 7+ (5.7+)
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 9, 2014

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Comments: Pitch 1 is real nice. Would continue to the 2nd of 3 sets of anchors. One cannot see the 3rd set from the second set.


Location: CO : Silver Plume : West Slabs : Tin Can Arete (5.5)
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 9, 2014

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Comments: Leo can take all the credit for this one. Needs a little traffic to clean it up. Would be a nice linkup with the 5.5 route below for a 5.5 trad leader.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Nurse Shark (5.9-)
By: Doug Redosh When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: There are 2 hidden holds in the middle section. 10-.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Hammerhead (5.9+)
By: Doug Redosh When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: I could not even get off the ground on this climb. Cannot comment on the upper section. No way a 9+, especially compared to the main crag at North Table.
10+ IMHO.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Sea Robin (5.8)
By: Doug Redosh When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: It may feel like 5.8 if you just spent a week at Indian Creek. I followed this yesterday and it is strenuous. My partner, who leads 5.9 trad, even had a hard time on this. The traverse is 5.8 and the upper crack is 5.9. On the initial crack/corner, one can get some decent assist holds out to the left and up to the R up higher. 10a IMHO, especially if you compare to other crack climbs at North Table.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Finger Flatiron : Mere Wall (5.8)
By: Doug Redosh When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Did this again yesterday for the first time in 11 years. Maybe I am getting older, but first pitch seemed more like 5.7 and P2 more like 5.9.
Belay spot is at a good stance at a crack that angles up and right. The route continues left however. Once on the summit ridge, there are obvious belay slings to the right. However, if one goes left about 15 feet (4th class, exposed), the anchors for Nude Figures in a Hollow Fruit are seen, which is a cool toprope.
Would agree with Leo, 2 stars, as t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : East Face Right/Der Zerkle (5.7)
By: Doug Redosh When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Did this yesterday. It looks like a hold might have broken off on the beginning of the second pitch, perhaps making it harder. It is unprotected 5.7 - 8 to that point where one can get a small TCU into a undercling. The layback itself is comparably easy.
Also, there is a nice new 2 bolt anchor on the summit for a 70 foot rappel. There is no need to downclimb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : East Face Left Side (5.6)
By: Doug Redosh When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: From the cave, it is pretty obvious to head straight up the gully to a stance 20 feet below the notch for a belay. Then head up and right onto the SE face of the middle tower for a short but fun 5.5 pitch to the summit. Also one can get good pro below the bolt, which I did not see until it was 1 foot from my nose!


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : Sharpe's Arete (aka Thirsty... (5.12a)
By: Doug Redosh When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: Andrew, it seems that you are referring to "Z is last...", at least your description matches that. It is listed on this website.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : The Nautilus Cave Pitch (5.10)
By: Doug Redosh When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: The footholds have definitely become very polished over the last few years. My feet slipped at around the first bolt, leaving me hanging by my hands a la Wil E. Coyote (sp?), giving me a nice gash in my index finger that took some direct pressure to stop!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Mungajerry (5.10a)
By: Doug Redosh When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: The top move is 10a - 10b IMHO, but I have had a few months off from climbing. I wonder if a small hold broke off between 2005 and now. Much harder than the other 9s on the cliff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Fist or Hippo Head : East Face/Hippo Head (5.6)
By: Doug Redosh When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: We did this today in 3 pitches. Fun outing! The crux (5.7 - 5.8) is crossing a gully about 130 feet up. One can belay just before it.
We got all 3 of us on the summit. The last person had a mostly protected downclimb off the summit block by throwing the rope over a large boulder.
There is a large hex and a large tricam with some slings for a rappel anchor at the top of a 5.7 crack on the west face 15 feet south of the summit block. Look over the edge and you will see them. One can then TR th... more >>


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : Mount Royal (near Frisco) : Aces High (5.10-)
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: Just to be more clear, this is the variation that is shown on the picture of the headwall on the Royal Flush description. i.e. it is an alternative to pitches 13 and 14 of Royal Flush. It does NOT start down near the bike path.

That said, it is a great pitch, and definitely the hardest and most sustained, when combined with the rest of Royal Flush. Part of the spice for us came with the wind that kicked up right at the crux, for both of us! I suspect that is a windy spot much of the time, as i... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Grocery Store Walls : Teething Biscuit (5.10a)
By: Doug Redosh When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: Our favorite route of the day on our first visit to Castlewood.
The bolts are good but are below the summit a little bit. One can easily tie off to a tree 10 feet back.


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : White Cliff : Czech Cashing (5.11d)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: One can avoid the 11d roof and "Czech out" the upper face by coming in from Funky Gunky after the 2nd bolt. This makes a nice linkup, with some thoughtful face climbing.


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : White Cliff : Rufies (5.7+)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: A bit easier than Zebra, nice route. A good warmup.


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : White Cliff : Zebra (5.8+)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: Nice route. one can set an anchor for the belayer with some large cams - #4.5 or so. Crux is between 3rd and 4th bolt. Felt a bit hard for 7+, or maybe it was my first climb on this rock.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : "Is Our Children Learning?" (5.9+)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jun 10, 2011

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Comments: Agree about potential of both climber and belayer tumbling onto the highway. One can place cams (0.5 -0.75) in the horizontal crack before the first bolt, and tie a 15' piece of rope (or the end of your 2nd rope) to them for the belayer, and first piece for the leader if desired, then back clean to avoid rope drag. Ditto re: some loose rock that will go down to the highway.



Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Sea Cliffs of North Quarry : Send Friend (5.8)
By: Doug Redosh When: Nov 22, 2010

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Comments: If one stops at the anchor, the rock is very good. Only rotten above that.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Air Head (5.10a/b)
By: Doug Redosh When: Nov 1, 2010

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Comments: This has cleaned up considerably over the years. There is now only one semi-loose flake, almost at the top, that is avoidable.


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