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On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.


Member Since: Oct 1, 2004
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Doug Hemken


Point Rank: # 73
Total Points: 4,999
Last Year: 888
Last 30 Days: 40
179 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Doug Hemken been climbing?










Contributions


All 2217 | Routes 139 | Areas 31 | Photos 537 | Page Improvements 6 | Comments 441 | Posts 523 | Stars 464 | Ratings 76
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Upper Diagonal (5.9)
By: Doug Hemken When: 3 days ago

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Comments: According to Smith and Zimmerman (1970), the FA was Pete Cleveland. What do you think, Rich?


Location: IL : Ice Climbing : Starved Rock State Park
By: Doug Hemken When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the update!


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: Love the video - self-deprecating humor is the best.

This conversation is all about what makes the most elegant line, i.e. aesthetics. And tastes change. As a simple example, there was a time when it would have been considered inelegant to rap off something you could walk off of. Nowadays I meet climbers who consider a line inelegant if you cannot just rap off.

I think it is interesting and worthwhile that you try to define and articulate what makes a line elegant for you.

Now the slapstic... more >>


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 11, 2015

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Comments: Isn't the real controversy whether or not it's a send if you don't get back down safely? Confused mountaineer, here.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: I think George's description on the main route page is clear.


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Lovely Tower : Fine Nine (5.9+)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Very engaging!


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Lovely Tower : Fine Nine (5.9+) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Great expression!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Leaning Tower South Face (V0 PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: See also Leaning Tower South Face


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: This has become the most common finish to Ginger Cracks ....


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Thank you to the LE ranger who took the time yesterday to chat with the climbers at the Plan B area, about various climbing management issues. That was very helpful.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : East Bluff Linkups : Noble Arches (5.8 PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: I guess I've done 4-5 20 pitch (or more) days by now. The first time, we were a party of three, did no raps, and finished in 10 hours at an average grade of 5.65.

My first bit of advice for someone who wants a big day is: have a strategy, like James and Matthew! Usually that means, have some sort of list. Second piece of advice, don't dawdle on the transitions, as Matthew says. Third piece of advice, use a 60m half-rope, and double it over, otherwise you end up hauling up 600m or more of r... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Great Tower (M... : Great Tower : The Great Crack (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: And what's funny/ironic about that is there's the same amount of climbing on Track Cracks as on Great Crack ... both four stars in my book.


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro... : North Wall : Turn the Other Cheek (5.8+)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: Harder when it's damp!


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : East Face, Left Side Cracks (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: Compares well with Royal Arches.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : East Face, Left Side Cracks (5.7) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: We mostly followed this line, too. We must have used some different belay locations, because our pitches were mostly 55-65m long, and we did 10 pitches.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: We have some commercial spray-on stuff, and wire brushes. The Park sets us up. I'm not sure what to do about sandstone ... I've been asked this same question with respect to Necedah, which I'd love to clean up some day. I think it's going to take some patience (to allow the cleaner to soak in) and soft brushes or rags, and some experimentation.

If you come up with something that even helps, there are LOTS of folks who would like to know has to treat sandstone.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : AAHRG (5.10a)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Finally found my way up this, after watching Angie crimp straight up beside the left Sunken Pillar crack. My version veered a little further left at the big bulge.

Which is to say, there are at least two ways of doing this line.


Location: NV : Red Rock
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: Gee Greg, you should look more closely at some of the photo captions, above.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : 6.63 Smoots (5.8- PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Smoot is short?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater : Missing Link (5.8) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: The climber is gazing somewhere in between "Missing Link" and the route to the right.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater : Missing Link (5.8)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: Took me a couple of tries to find the sequence!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : The Frigate : Can Can (5.5) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: May 8, 2014

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Comments: This is "Can-can" on the Frigate, not in the Pantry, so I've moved this (and several other photos) for you.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: This route could totally be made more convenient.

Being able to rap the route itself is hardly considered a convenience in this day and age! A separate, bolted rap line would just be pleasant. And more bolts on the climb would speed things up, so we didn't have to wait for bumbly trad leaders. Not to mention the convenience of not having to carry all that trad gear.

Snark off: this is a tremendous route that is worth suffering a little inconvenience for.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Bill's Buttress : Cheatah (5.10b) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: Funny you should say that ... he picked himself up, dusted himself off, and nailed it a few minutes later. But was unhappy that it wasn't totally clean.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Shredder (V10)
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: Starts in Vivisection and ends in the The Funnel (start of Bucket Brigade, etc)?


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