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On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.


Member Since: Oct 1, 2004
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Doug Hemken
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Point Rank: # 72
Total Points: 5,216
Last Year: 551
Last 30 Days: 19
194 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2294 | Routes 145 | Areas 31 | Photos 566 | Page Improvements 6 | Comments 453 | Posts 545 | Stars 472 | Ratings 76
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Bird-Foot Buttress : Mother and Apple Pie (5.10 PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: Went back and did this again. Cool, devious moves. Sustained.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Stettner Rocks : Stettner Rocks : Untied Shoes (5.7) : Photo (Copy)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Climb the right hand wall in the dihedral (the shaded wall).


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Stettner Rocks : Stettner Rocks : Untied Shoes (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: This looks contrived, but climbs pretty naturally once you take your feet off the ground. More fun than it looks.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Stettner Rocks : Stettner Rocks : The Mantle Shelf (5.9 R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: What Andy describes sounds more like The Niche, finished straight up the crack.

I watched 5-6 do the Mantle Shelf yesterday, using 3-4 different methods. Only one person got it on the first try. The key hold for pulling through can only be reached after you are fully committed to the mantle, and is not particularly obvious.

Humbling. Even Pete C. had to think about it (but then rocked it).


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: This view emphasizes the horizontal distance and minimizes the vertical ... but it also gives you a good sense of what you do!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Cannabis Sativa (5.8 R)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: Years ago I had a summer ambition of leading all the named 8's at the Lake. This climb put an end to that ambition.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : White Wall : Aku Aku (5.7 PG13) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: Closed for repair! Might need to do a little erosion control here! *Completely* gone!

Actually, there is surprisingly little damage to the surrounding slope. I stood there for several minutes thinking, "Shouldn't I recognize this place? Why is it unfamiliar?" before I realized something was missing.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : White Wall : Aku Aku (5.7 PG13) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: I think here you can see the wedge that might have toppled this pillar.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : White Wall : Aku Aku (5.7 PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 17, 2015

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Comments: This route is now completely gone: the pillar apparently fell over during the winter of 2014-2015.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Deuceldike (5.9- R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: The bolts that were there have not been replaced Supertopo

more Supertopo


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (Full) (5.8)
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Better than I was expecting!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower Summit : Cinnamon Hedgehog (5.10a)
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Having done a few runs up toward the Aeolian Wall, the direct approach to Levitation, and quite a few "scrambling" descents, I found this approach to be less heinous than I expected. I guess I'm getting used to it.

Nice route. Good rock and great views!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mud Spring Canyon : Chuckwalla 21 (5.9 PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: A fun and engaging route, made all the better by the adventurous and beautiful location.

We were a little confused at the start, but eventually realized that the shallow, right-facing "flake" in the middle of the face was the key feature. The pitch ends just past some great black varnish on a ledge, and if you squint you can make out a couple of bolts.

I also moved left of the flake, before coming back over it heading right.

Take heart, there is more gear than it looks like there will be. W... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Upper Diagonal (5.9)
By: Doug Hemken When: Feb 25, 2015

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Comments: According to Smith and Zimmerman (1970), the FA was Pete Cleveland. What do you think, Rich?


Location: IL : Ice Climbing : Starved Rock State Park
By: Doug Hemken When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the update!


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: Love the video - self-deprecating humor is the best.

This conversation is all about what makes the most elegant line, i.e. aesthetics. And tastes change. As a simple example, there was a time when it would have been considered inelegant to rap off something you could walk off of. Nowadays I meet climbers who consider a line inelegant if you cannot just rap off.

I think it is interesting and worthwhile that you try to define and articulate what makes a line elegant for you.

Now the slapstic... more >>


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 11, 2015

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Comments: Isn't the real controversy whether or not it's a send if you don't get back down safely? Confused mountaineer, here.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: I think George's description on the main route page is clear.


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Lovely Tower : Fine Nine (5.9+)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Very engaging!


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Lovely Tower : Fine Nine (5.9+) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Great expression!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Leaning Tower South Face (V0 PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: See also Leaning Tower South Face


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: This has become the most common finish to Ginger Cracks ....


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Thank you to the LE ranger who took the time yesterday to chat with the climbers at the Plan B area, about various climbing management issues. That was very helpful.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : East Bluff Linkups : Noble Arches (5.8 PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: I guess I've done 4-5 20 pitch (or more) days by now. The first time, we were a party of three, did no raps, and finished in 10 hours at an average grade of 5.65.

My first bit of advice for someone who wants a big day is: have a strategy, like James and Matthew! Usually that means, have some sort of list. Second piece of advice, don't dawdle on the transitions, as Matthew says. Third piece of advice, use a 60m half-rope, and double it over, otherwise you end up hauling up 600m or more of r... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Great Tower (M... : Great Tower : The Great Crack (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: And what's funny/ironic about that is there's the same amount of climbing on Track Cracks as on Great Crack ... both four stars in my book.


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