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On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.


Member Since: Oct 1, 2004
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Doug Hemken


Point Rank: # 71
Total Points: 4,770
Last Year: 850
Last 30 Days: 59
174 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Doug Hemken been climbing?










Contributions


All 2126 | Routes 139 | Areas 26 | Photos 509 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 433 | Posts 496 | Stars 447 | Ratings 72
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park
By: Doug Hemken When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Thank you to the LE ranger who took the time yesterday to chat with the climbers at the Plan B area, about various climbing management issues. That was very helpful.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : East Bluff Linkups : Noble Arches (5.8 PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: I guess I've done 4-5 20 pitch (or more) days by now. The first time, we were a party of three, did no raps, and finished in 10 hours at an average grade of 5.65.

My first bit of advice for someone who wants a big day is: have a strategy, like James and Matthew! Usually that means, have some sort of list. Second piece of advice, don't dawdle on the transitions, as Matthew says. Third piece of advice, use a 60m half-rope, and double it over, otherwise you end up hauling up 600m or more of r... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Great Tower (M... : Great Tower : The Great Crack (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: And what's funny/ironic about that is there's the same amount of climbing on Track Cracks as on Great Crack ... both four stars in my book.


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : North Wall : Turn the Other Cheek (5.8+)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: Harder when it's damp!


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : East Face, Left Side Cracks (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: Compares well with Royal Arches.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : East Face, Left Side Cracks (5.7) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: We mostly followed this line, too. We must have used some different belay locations, because our pitches were mostly 55-65m long, and we did 10 pitches.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: We have some commercial spray-on stuff, and wire brushes. The Park sets us up. I'm not sure what to do about sandstone ... I've been asked this same question with respect to Necedah, which I'd love to clean up some day. I think it's going to take some patience (to allow the cleaner to soak in) and soft brushes or rags, and some experimentation.

If you come up with something that even helps, there are LOTS of folks who would like to know has to treat sandstone.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : AAHRG (5.10a)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Finally found my way up this, after watching Angie crimp straight up beside the left Sunken Pillar crack. My version veered a little further left at the big bulge.

Which is to say, there are at least two ways of doing this line.


Location: NV : Red Rock
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: Gee Greg, you should look more closely at some of the photo captions, above.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : 6.63 Smoots (5.8- PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Smoot is short?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater : Missing Link (5.8) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: The climber is gazing somewhere in between "Missing Link" and the route to the right.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater : Missing Link (5.8)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: Took me a couple of tries to find the sequence!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : The Frigate : Can Can (5.5) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: May 8, 2014

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Comments: This is "Can-can" on the Frigate, not in the Pantry, so I've moved this (and several other photos) for you.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: This route could totally be made more convenient.

Being able to rap the route itself is hardly considered a convenience in this day and age! A separate, bolted rap line would just be pleasant. And more bolts on the climb would speed things up, so we didn't have to wait for bumbly trad leaders. Not to mention the convenience of not having to carry all that trad gear.

Snark off: this is a tremendous route that is worth suffering a little inconvenience for.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Bill's Buttress : Cheatah (5.10b) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: Funny you should say that ... he picked himself up, dusted himself off, and nailed it a few minutes later. But was unhappy that it wasn't totally clean.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Shredder (V10)
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: Starts in Vivisection and ends in the The Funnel (start of Bucket Brigade, etc)?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: "crimp jug"???


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The Pedestal (5.4)
By: Doug Hemken When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: I think it would count as one route! Ha, thought you had me!

Imagine the Challenge at Red Rock or Yosemite. I did ~70 pitches last week ... but only 7 routes.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The Pedestal (5.4)
By: Doug Hemken When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: I'd do it either way, depending on what experience I'm after. Great little belay in the alcove/crow's nest. Or do it in one pitch and manage your pro so that there isn't rope drag.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: I seem to recall there are pro possibilities by his right foot and below his left hand.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall
By: Doug Hemken When: Mar 27, 2014

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Comments: I think 1 - 1.5 hours is the estimated time for the most direct/easterly approach? (Took us 1.5 hours, last week. Familiar with the area, but had never done that exact approach before.)


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Wiessner Wall : Wiessner Face (5.7) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: No wonder there was so much rope drag!

Hey wait, I thought Burt was belaying? Thank goodness he at least tied me off before he scrambled around to take the picture!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : Joanne of Arch (5.9)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: We continued on to the top of the E summit, then followed the cairns across the knife-edge W to the main summit.

Great day! The first 3 pitches are very nice, and we found two more pitches up higher by continuing straight up, ~ 5.8 - 5.10, depending on how you approached the final bulge.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi...
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: A description of the West bluff towers circuit would make a nice addition here. I'm thinking you could provide an overview, with links to individual routes pages?


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Jet Stream (5.10a R) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: Looks like "Worried Wives' Club" also shared a couple of pitches ...


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