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Member Since: Jun 13, 2005
Last Visit: Nov 12, 2014
Contact doug haller


Point Rank: # 1,525
Total Points: 405
Last Year: 21
Last 30 Days: 20
7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 128 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 75 | Page Improvements | Comments 20 | Posts 26 | Stars 4 | Ratings 2

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : The Emerald Highway (5.10+) : Photo
By: doug haller When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: The gear for this route is consistent with the grading of the route and the alpine setting. The hardest pitches to protect, if memory serves me well, are P1 and P2. On the Rainbow Highway variation I would include the crux pitch as challenging gear placements.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: doug haller When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Bring on the debate!
Apparently, chopping bolts (Kennedy/Kruk - Compressor) and adding bolts (Widner - Archangel) earn the same response.
Even Long and Donahue, perhaps the only climbers commenting with accomplishments equal to Widner, offer contrasting views.
Most importantly, if climbers don't find a way to manage their resources, then the parents (in this case land managers) will step in and settle disputes for us. Archangel is no Bacher-Yerian (no offense to the FA) like Boulder Canyon ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttresses : Work-Life Balance (5.10+)
By: doug haller When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this yesterday:

P1: locating the start for most Tan Buttress routes remains a challenge. Look for the flakes on P2 from the base of Lazy Sunday/Anniversary Route.... For this route, select a line that will put you on the left side of the pedestal - a large block with greenery , on the left, at the base of an OW. P1 tops out on the block/pedestal.

P2: seriously consider breaking this pitch into two shorter ones. Add a belay above the flakes and before the corner. Rope management/drag i... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Seldom Seen Wall : Peekaboo Dihedral (5.10-)
By: doug haller When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: Nice line. Rock solid but with blocks on ledges.
Don't try to run the last two pitches together. First, you'll get rope drag, and second, the nearest solid rock at the summit is 30 feet from the lip.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Meeker : Dragon's Egg Couloir Ski De... (Steep Snow R)
By: doug haller When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: Climbed Dreamweaver and descended Dragon's Egg. Clouds in the AM kept the climb solid while sun late in the AM softened snow for ski down.

Comments: car to car in about 12 hours (expect others would reduce this time, I was having slow day and thank my partner waiting).
Key beta: know your route finding skills from the end of the ski run to the lake - Sand Beach Lake. The hiking trail from Sandbeach Lake to parking lot at Wild Basin is NOT blazed. Why? Don't know but would be a good project ... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... : Piz Badille : The Ridge (5.8)
By: doug haller When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: Fixed raps p1-4.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: doug haller When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: Requires Double Ropes for the top 3 pitches and to descend via the rap stations.

Probably harder than 11a for short folks...I found the crux hard and am 5'7"-8" with a plus 2 reach.

Best to ascend during exceptionally dry spells.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttresses : MOAC Memorial Route (5.10+)
By: doug haller When: Aug 3, 2012

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Comments: Descent route for the Tan Buttress:
Locating the start - Make sure you are standing along the wall where it is undercut by erosion.
Probably a good route to use double ropes on to limit rope drag. With one rope, we had drag.
P1 still has a little loose rock - gravel size and a few large holds.
P2 step right and ascend despite the nice look of going directly upward.
P3 looks like there are two exits to the airy dihedral, the route takes the left-hand version through bright orange lichen covere... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttresses : Lazy Sunday Route (5.10-) : Photo
By: doug haller When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: Photo courtesy of Greg M.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttresses : Lazy Sunday Route (5.10-) : Photo
By: doug haller When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: Photo courtesy of Greg M.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Squaw Peak : Squawstruck (5.11-)
By: doug haller When: Oct 17, 2010

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Comments: Clearly, a lot of time and effort went into bolting this route. Leaders should not worry about lack of gear. The quantity of bolts reflects the lack of quality of the rock. On every pitch climbers should anticipate loose rock. To minimize risk, avoid climbing below other parties. Definitely wear a helmet. Expect rock fall. Expect to break holds while climbing. The 6 routes I have done in the Black Canyon had better quality rock. We combined pitches doing the 22 as 16 back cleaning draws.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : The Emerald Highway (5.10+)
By: doug haller When: Jul 12, 2010

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Comments: The route starts below and to climber's right of both Good Evans and Road Warrior.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : The Emerald Highway (5.10+) : Photo
By: doug haller When: Jul 12, 2010

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Comments: Looking down from the top of P5.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : The Emerald Highway (5.10+) : Photo
By: doug haller When: Jul 12, 2010

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Comments: One can either traverse the face, as Josh is doing here or undercling the crack below his feet. The decision to traverse was made after an attempt to go straight up. Adding a bolt about the shoulder level of the climber pictured, would create a new, possibly more direct P2. We did not bring a bolt kit and took the line of natural pro.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : All Along the Watchtower (5.11 C2- R)
By: doug haller When: Mar 2, 2010

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Comments: Sam,thanks for the route description. You mention cold temps, suggesting that these are the norm. Is that because of the aspect, (north west corner of the tower) or are the temps equally low in the sun? Also, what was your ascent time? Thanks, Doug


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : All Along the Watchtower (5.11 C2- R)
By: doug haller When: Mar 2, 2010

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Comments: Ken, thanks for the map. I assume that the red dots represent the approach to S. Howser from the Kain Hut. If so, what might change seasonally? I intend to head there this summer. Thanks in advance.

doug


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall : Dalke Route (5.9 R)
By: doug haller When: Nov 8, 2007

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Comments: This was an excellent and engaging route. After the first pitch, every other pitch requires thoughtful attention at some point. Watch the rope drag when climbing up and right from the top of P3 and onto P4. In fact, due to rope drag we set up a belay in the middle of P4 before the traverse. On the long traverse, P4-5, move straight right along horizontals with reasonable pro. After about 25-30 feet, pass a right-facing, curving corner, climb another 5-7 feet right. Look for a place to clim... more >>


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Thessalonian Buttress : The Grecian Highway (5.9)
By: doug haller When: May 30, 2007

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Comments: P2 reminded me of High Exposure or Son of Eazy O in the Gunks.


Location: Dyneema sling failure under...
By: doug haller When: Dec 9, 2006

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Comments: Interesting discussion. Keep it simple. Based on the picture, the sling was cut. Luckily no one was hurt.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Justify (5.12b)
By: doug haller When: Jun 13, 2005

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Comments: Recently did this route. The "jug haul" description may be a little exagerated. Fortunately, there are nice finger locks as the route follows a crack/seam in the face. The end of the route feels like the crux. Pulling over the roof on to thin face was tricky and felt a little scary. I went left at the top despite the topo showing moves right past the last bolt.