Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Aug 8, 2011
Last Visit: Apr 13, 2014
Contact Doug Fulford


Point Rank: # 9,802
Total Points: 20
Last Year: 8
Last 30 Days: 8
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Doug Fulford been climbing?










Contributions


All (20) | Routes | Areas | Photos (1) | Comments (15) | Posts | Stars | Ratings (4)

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
N. Face approach topo

N. Face approach topo

North America : Canada : ... : North Face - Chouinard/Beck... (5.7 Mod. Snow)

Aug 30, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Collision Course (5.11)
By: Doug Fulford When: Apr 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Not sure you'll get off this with a 60m rope. 110'?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : scout (5.10-)
By: Doug Fulford When: Apr 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This thing gave me a wicked flash pump - it ain't no 10a! Solid .10c. Good route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Spaghetti Western (5.11+)
By: Doug Fulford When: Apr 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Rope mgmt. beta: Place a thin-hands sized piece (probably red camalot) in the splitter to the left of the corner, just after you leave the overhanging hands corner. This will keep the rope out of the crack.

One of my favorite routes and Indian Creek!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Mr. Peanut (5.10+)
By: Doug Fulford When: Apr 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Really fun! I would say 10+ and the grade doesn't really change with hand size on this one. 7 purple camalots wouldn't be too many for this route!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : The Thing (5.10-)
By: Doug Fulford When: Apr 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A few more details: route is 100'. Gear recommended: doubles .4 - #3 camalots with a couple extra .5 and .75. Great warmup without the crowds of the easy classics further left.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Owl Crack (5.10)
By: Doug Fulford When: Apr 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Devin neither my wife or I noticed anything sketchy about this anchor. However, both Anunnaki and Closed Course have one new-looking but loose (can wiggle it with your fingers - zoiks!) bolt. Thanks for posting all the beta here, and also for the new routes and anchor replacement you've been doing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Owl Crack (5.10)
By: Doug Fulford When: Apr 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Great route. It seems to correspond to route #1 in the guidebook. Best to approach it from the left - easy, but exposed scrambling. The route is actually only ~80'.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Anunnaki (5.11c)
By: Doug Fulford When: Mar 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: One of the two bolts at the top is loose - you can wiggle it with your fingers. It's the silver ring bolt that is loose, not the one with the chain. It should probably be replaced ASAP. I have to wonder, given the overhanging location of these bolts and the nature of sandstone, if glue-ins would be a better choice.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Liquid Gold (5.10+)
By: Doug Fulford When: Sep 16, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Great route. The chimney pitch was a blast - no need to be scared of that pitch! Straightforward, fun descent down the trail/fixed ropes (you can easily rap if the fixed ropes don't look good). 30 minutes to the car. Double set of cams to 4" works but it wouldn't hurt to have triples of fingers to hands size for the long crux pitch.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : M.C.'s Hammer (5.11-)
By: Doug Fulford When: Mar 29, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I loved this route!
BUT it's probably time to replace the old anchor. There are two drilled pitons but the rock has worn away significantly around both of them. One of the poorest anchors I've seen at the Creek. If only I'd had a drill up there...


Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : Jasper National Park : ... : North Face - Chouinard/Beck... (5.7 Mod. Snow)
By: Doug Fulford When: Sep 14, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed it Aug. 26, 2011. Recommended strategy: day 1 climb up approach route (II 5.6 - see topo)and bivy on moraine next to glacier. Day 2 climb N. Face and take W. Ridge descent back to hostel. It's a long day so best bet is to plan to sleep at hostel. Day 3 walk back to car (2km)and continue up to bivy site to retrieve bivy gear. Rappel approach route.

Last half of August/early September is a nice time to do this route because the sun hits the N. Face at a low angle. We experienced almost no... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : North Ridge (5.8)
By: Doug Fulford When: Aug 21, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed it via Valhalla Traverse approach on Aug. 18. Valhalla Traverse is mostly dry to bottom of ramp, then several hundred meters of snow/ice/rock to Grandstand. The first half of the Valhalla Traverse is very Canadian-Rockies-esque with lots of 3rd/4th class on very loose rock. There are a pair of new-looking Salomon boots at the Grandstand - I'd love to hear that story! The N. Ridge was much colder than we expected. There is a 10 meter section of very hard ice just below the Chockstone Chim... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : North Face Standard (5.8)
By: Doug Fulford When: Aug 14, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed it yesterday. A fine alpine route that is in perfect condition right now. Mountain boots and crampons are highly recommended for the steep snow above the bergschrund, although parties have done it with approach shoes and crampons. Between the Ortenberger guide and Teton Rock Climbs guidebooks we were able to stay on route the whole way. A single set of cams to 2" with doubles grey - red camalot (and of course nuts) does the job nicely. The pendulum pitch would have a lineup a mile... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: Doug Fulford When: Aug 9, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed it today with two other parties. A couple things worth mentioning:
-we got to within 1 mile of the trailhead with our front wheel drive Hyundai, but this is NOT recommended. Take a 4WD or waste hours fixing the road like we did!
-we used a topo found on the internet. Google "naclassics" to find it. It was very helpful.
-it is reasonable to day trip the route from the trailhead.
-there are nice campsites at the trailhead.
-the route is quite casual overall. We put on rock shoes only for t... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Northcutt-Carter (5.7)
By: Doug Fulford When: Aug 8, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed it yesterday Aug. 7 2011. Started via the Kor Van Tongeren. P1 5.7 55m to bottom of prominent "V"
P2 5.9 50m took left hand option of V. Short but fierce crux then easy.
P3 5.0 30m climb down and left past loose blocks and flakes to the top of P2 of the Northcutt Carter. There are a couple of old pins and some old tat to mark this belay.
We then followed the Northcutt Carter route to the top.

The above description exactly matches Bob Dergay's beta photo. We found the entire route to be ... more >>


Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Anunnaki

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

UT : Moab Area : ... : The Optimator

Spaghetti Western

5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

UT : Moab Area : ... : Pistol Whipped

Mr. Peanut

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

UT : Moab Area : ... : Donnelly Canyon

scout

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

UT : Moab Area : ... : 4X4