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Moby dick 5.11-


Member Since: Dec 8, 2007
Last Visit: Jul 25, 2014
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Point Rank: # 513
Total Points: 1,170
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dom been climbing?










Contributions


All 923 | Routes 47 | Areas 10 | Photos 95 | Page Improvments | Comments 75 | Posts 198 | Stars 276 | Ratings 222
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Cedar point : La mre Luc pis des burri... (5.9 PG13)
By: Dom When: Jul 12, 2011

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Comments: This route is not ready yet. The two first hangers are missing please stay off. Once trundled the stars might go up.


Location: ME : Clifton Crags : Big Chick Hill : Tower Buttress and Face : Son of a Birch (5.9)
By: Dom When: Jun 29, 2011

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Comments: Man I remember doing this route and thinking that the crux was obviously the overhanging start. Faack! the start was the easy part! That finger crack after the overhang isn't that good and those feet suck! That being said, what as fun route!!


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Cedar point : Happy Birthday to Me (5.8)
By: Dom When: Jun 17, 2011

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Comments: I find long Runners are handy to protect using trees or threads on this route.


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Cedar point
By: Dom When: Jun 17, 2011

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Comments: Good point Chris. I usually inspect myself and shower every time I get home from CP.


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Green Head Cove
By: Dom When: Jun 3, 2011

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Comments: Good f*ckin work!!


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Cape Spencer
By: Dom When: Jun 3, 2011

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Comments: I'm pretty sure Cory Goodman has a topo of the area.

Also, Chris I think people on CEC were against posting areas with fragile access (CL, Sunnyside, etc.). I'm sure nobody cares if you post Cape Spencer. Cedar point would also benefit beeing posted on here IMO.

Good work on the pictures and tentative topo Ian.


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Cape Spencer : ... : Photo
By: Dom When: Jun 3, 2011

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Comments: This is actually called Jimmy Buffet. That's the only name I remember from Cape Spencer


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Gunklandia (5.7)
By: Dom When: Apr 25, 2011

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Comments: I'm confused. Is the pitch 3 chimney part of this route or is that what they call Gunklandia direct?

Anyways the chimney is harder than 5.7. like GMburns said


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Fingers on a Seascape (5.10c)
By: Dom When: Apr 25, 2011

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Comments: I thought this route was as hard as Connecticut cracks.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Bartleby (5.8)
By: Dom When: Apr 25, 2011

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Comments: The fingercrack after the roof is amazing. The roof is also really fun.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Rock Wars (5.10a) : Photo
By: Dom When: Apr 11, 2011

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Comments: This is an awesome pic of Rock wars. WOW!


Location: ME : Clifton Crags : Eagle Bluff : Punks in the Gunks (5.11c)
By: Dom When: Mar 31, 2011

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Comments: Where do you start this route? Do you start on bivy route? I looked to the left of Bivy route and it looked really dirty...


Location: ME : Clifton Crags
By: Dom When: Mar 25, 2011

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Comments: Don Nelligan rocks!

If you don't know who I'm talking about then you haven't climbed at Clifton.


Location: ME : Clifton Crags : Eagle Bluff : highlander (5.10b)
By: Dom When: Mar 23, 2011

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Comments: On the first pitch a small cam was used maybe 0.4 or 0.5? before the first bolt.

Also, I remember a no. 1 or 0.75 beeing used in a 5.4 section on the 2nd pitch. Aside from that I didn't need gear other than Quickdraws.


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : ... : Fais-toi pas mal (5.9)
By: Dom When: Oct 13, 2010

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Comments: This is a well protected sport route. I don't think ''PG 13'' has its place in this description. My opinion


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : ... : Little bones (5.7)
By: Dom When: Oct 13, 2010

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Comments: Nice description. Instead of spraying about it here you should contribute otherwise to the climbing community by scrubbing it yourself.


My description would be start with a low angle crux section then progress to the top climbing up ledges and finish with an aerial overhanging section before topping out to reach the fixe rings anchor.


Location: ME : Clifton Crags : Eagle Bluff : Entrance Exam (5.10d) : Photo
By: Dom When: Sep 13, 2010

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Comments: looks like a dangerous belay.


Location: ME : Clifton Crags : Eagle Bluff : The Eagle's Gift (5.9+)
By: Dom When: Sep 10, 2010

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Comments: Depends on your style...I thought Weathies was easier


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : ... : About a Rope (5.7+ PG13)
By: Dom When: Sep 3, 2010

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Comments: I think you did go off route on the 2nd pitch because the belay from the top is on a nice sitdown ledge.

You probably made it to the new route called trundle flakes 5.10a PG that starts on the right end of king arthurs (Minkey).


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Electric Socks (5.8+)
By: Dom When: Apr 29, 2009

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Comments: WOW this has to be the best 5.8 at Rumney! Well then again there is the Junco at Jimmy Cliff...

Anyways, If you are open-minded about climbing and wanna try something new: Get on ES. It will definitely be memorable. I know, the crux is unlike anything I've ever done before.

If 5.9,5.10- is your limit maybe wear a helmet since it seems like falling in that chimney could make you fall on the back wall. Better be safe than sorry!

Anyways, enjoy it!


Location: International : North America : Canada
By: Dom When: Apr 17, 2009

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Comments: Joe M sorry I'm a year and a half later but there is actually excellent rock and ice climbing in N-B.
The rock climbing is mostly trad in a wonderful granite setting called Cochrane Lane and the ice is just everywhere!

check out climbeasterncanada.com or www.beta-source.com/ for pics, info etc.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : No Money Down (Left) : Mr. Popular (5.10a)
By: Dom When: Oct 6, 2008

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Comments: This route is at least a 5.10 because of the start...


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : No Money Down (Left) : No Money Down (5.10c)
By: Dom When: Oct 6, 2008

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Comments: I climbed on it this past weekend and all the bolts seemed to be there.
Great Climb!!!


Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Things as They Are (5.10c)
By: Dom When: Dec 8, 2007

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Comments: I'm pretty sure it's only 3bolts to the anchor.
The picture corroborates this...


Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Clip a Dee Doo Dah (5.3)
By: Dom When: Dec 8, 2007

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Comments: Please be careful if you are rappelling down as I had trouble getting down with a 60M ropes on both rappels of both pitches.


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