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Moby dick 5.11-


Member Since: Dec 8, 2007
Last Visit: 6 days ago
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Point Rank: # 509
Total Points: 1,170
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dom been climbing?










Contributions


All 923 | Routes 47 | Areas 10 | Photos 95 | Page Improvments | Comments 75 | Posts 198 | Stars 276 | Ratings 222
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Bald Hill : ... : Rocky Road (5.11c)
By: Dom When: Jun 9, 2012

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Comments: I thought this was the same difficulty as Rock Steady


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Bald Hill
By: Dom When: Jun 9, 2012

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Comments: Also known as BALD CLOUD BEAR MOUTAIN


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Kingston Crag : ... : Jester (5.11a)
By: Dom When: Jun 7, 2012

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Comments: A little history on the route as I have the FFA. The original way I did it had the crux at the start using the very crappy shallow mono. I used the arête at the top and graded it 5.11 a or b. I went on it onsight and just climbed it. After that many people found better beta at the crux to the right where you skip the mono beta altogether. This is where the downgrade comes from. I think the route is now a 5.10c. Not using the arête at the top would be ridiculous as it's right there. Eliminates ar... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Photo
By: Dom When: May 28, 2012

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Comments: Yep!


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Odyssey : Penelope (5.10a)
By: Dom When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: 6a+ is supposed to be 5.10b but I agree that this climb feels more like a 10a, maybe even 5.9+... Nice nonetheless


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Odyssey : Circe (5.10c)
By: Dom When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: I agree that Athena was easier


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Syblegades Rocks : Drama (5.10b)
By: Dom When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: I climbed something like 10 routes at Sybleglades the day I was there and this was my favourite route of the day. Very good climbing!


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : The Beach
By: Dom When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: I disagree with you. While I only climbed one 10a that was really sharp, I'd have to say that the 5.12's are beautiful, aesthetic climbs that aren't sharp at all. If you come here to climb 5.8,9,10s, then ya maybe it's not a good idea but the two or three 5.12s here are definitely worth it. Plus you get to swim and climb! bonus!


Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : Social Outcast (5.12a) : Photo
By: Dom When: Apr 27, 2012

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Comments: Perhaps, but I hate it when people solo in front of me. Maybe you don't. Good for you. Sure I've soloed before, but I've never gone soloing where I know people will be. Why would I do that? To prove myself? The fact that his guy is soloing a classic route in August in Rumney is what I find dumb. He knew people would be there. If you want to solo fine, but don't involve others. If others are at the crag then they will inexorably be involved if something bad was to happen.


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Bald Hill : ... : Groovin (5.12b)
By: Dom When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: Probably the best 12 I've climbed in the Province! This route has got a lot of different style in it. Balancy, slopey, powerful, compressed, reachy with a no hands rest in the middle. All this in 50ft of climbing. Beautiful!


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Bald Hill : ... : Face The Pockets (5.10c)
By: Dom When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: I dunno why the first bolt is so high? It's not hard climbing to get to it but with loose rock in that wide crack a fall there is a possibility. The rest is better climbing than what I expected.


Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : Social Outcast (5.12a) : Photo
By: Dom When: Apr 11, 2012

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Comments: I know a few people that solo climb and I respect more the ones that do so ALONE. Soloing is a selfish pursuit so why bother going where there are people or cameras? I never want to be that guy at the bottom of the cliff when a soloist falls, would you?



I reiterate that soloing is dumb, but if you don't involve others (whether bystanders, other climbers, hikers, etc.)then at least you won't make others at the crag feel uncomfortable.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Black Jack Boulder : Black Jack Crack (5.10d V2)
By: Dom When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: Rack from 0.3 to #2 with doubles in 0.4 and 0.75 will suffice. The #1 and #2 are for the gear anchor but other sizes would work (Lots of gear on top).

Medium to large nuts would also work in that crack.


Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : Social Outcast (5.12a) : Photo
By: Dom When: Apr 1, 2012

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Comments: Soloing is dumb.


Location: Climbing Gear Discussion : What do you use for a perso... : Post : Photo
By: Dom When: Mar 1, 2012

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Comments: yes!


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Bald Hill
By: Dom When: Feb 8, 2012

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Comments: Hey Ian, It's awesome you added Bald Hill. It's a nice spot and I'll try to go more this year.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Forearm Follies (5.11d)
By: Dom When: Jan 30, 2012

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Comments: I took the biggest whipper of my life on this route 40+ ft. Right below the 1st set of anchor, I was at the bolt but didn't have it clipped. If I ever get on this route again I'm bringing a cam or two!


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Juvenile (5.11c)
By: Dom When: Jan 30, 2012

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Comments: Agreed. This is definitely a G mix route!


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Cedar point : Not Contrived Fejaitah (5.10c)
By: Dom When: Dec 6, 2011

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Comments: It's now recommended to stick-clip the 2nd bolt on this route as the 1st bolt has been moved left to accomodate the original line


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Kingston Crag : ... : Another Drumstick (5.10b)
By: Dom When: Nov 15, 2011

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Comments: If 5.10 is your limit, consider stick-clipping the 2nd bolt.


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Kingston Crag : ... : Err To the Throne (5.9)
By: Dom When: Nov 15, 2011

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Comments: a little run-out. Be solid at the grade before venturing on this route. Ground fall potential on the first 3 bolts.


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Cedar point : La mére à Luc pis des burri... (5.9 PG13)
By: Dom When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: Route is all set. Get on it.


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : Welsford Bouldering
By: Dom When: Sep 20, 2011

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Comments: Good idea. I'll probably add some eventually.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Crow's Nest : Scuttlebutt (5.6)
By: Dom When: Jul 26, 2011

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Comments: Super fun climb! I disagree with the PG13 rating. Sure it would suck to fall in a chimney but that doesn't mean this route is not well protected.


Location: Patrick Iseli : Climbing Quebec : Photo
By: Dom When: Jul 25, 2011

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Comments: more like 10c


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