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Moby dick 5.11-


Member Since: Dec 8, 2007
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 529
Total Points: 1,171
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dom been climbing?










Contributions


All 931 | Routes 47 | Areas 10 | Photos 95 | Page Improvements | Comments 76 | Posts 199 | Stars 279 | Ratings 225
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Fun pocketed slab climb

Fun pocketed slab climb

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Motha (5.7)

Mar 11, 2008

Putting a 1 Camalot in the pockets on Motha

Putting a 1 Camalot in the pockets on Motha

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Motha (5.7)

Mar 11, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Apoplexy (5.9)
By: Dom When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: This line is wonderful. Spicy crux down low leads to great flowy climbing above. The roof was full of jugs and i would call it 5.7...I also didn't use anything above a 0.75 despite bringing up to a #3.
I didn't protect the flake deeming too loose and had I fallen there, I estimate that it would've been real close to a deck fall, hence the PG rating. YMMV.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Bob Marley : Tacit (5.12a)
By: Dom When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments: youtu.be/iNQteX_lE1U


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : Yellow Brick Road (WI3+) : Photo
By: Dom When: Jan 31, 2013

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Comments: Man that looks thin!!!

Signed - A Canadian :)


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Central Scrutinizer (5.9 PG13)
By: Dom When: Dec 14, 2012

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Comments: I don't understand why so many people feel this is a 4 star route?...I didn't find anything special with this route and am puzzled what so many people found so awesome about it.

Anyways, just thought I'd rant a little, after all it's just rock climbing :-).


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Boneyard : Flying Serpents (5.12a)
By: Dom When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: When I sent this thing I just couldn't stop to clip the last bolt so I took the decision to skip it altogether. Falling from the top probably would've resulted in decking. I remember thinking it wasn't well bolted but haven't been on it since so maybe I was wrong then?


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Giant Man (5.12b/c)
By: Dom When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: Hey What's the deal with the monster detached jug just beneath the second to last bolt? Has it been reinforced? Seems terribly hollow and that would certainly be a widow maker if it came down...

Nice route, the crux is definitely getting to the jug just above the anchor. The rest is 5.11 except maybe for one small easier crux in the middle.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Millenium Falcon (5.10c)
By: Dom When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: I climbed it last weekend and thought it was mildly overrated. Sure it's a nice climb but IMO, is definitely not the best 5.10 in Rumney.


Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : Social Distortion (5.12a/b)
By: Dom When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: Cool S. Neoh. What I said didn't have a link with what you said. Just thought I'd post that this is a climb that would be easier for taller climbers.

The climber I was with is also 5'6'' and he had to do an extra super crimpy move.


Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : Social Distortion (5.12a/b)
By: Dom When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: By looking at the 'crux' picture, I can tell that the route can feel easier if you're tall. I'm 5'9'' and I had to do an intermediate move to get to where he is on the picture. That intermediate move was definitely the crux.


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Gondola Point : My Mother Is A Half Motorbo... (5.10a)
By: Dom When: Aug 30, 2012

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Comments: If I remember correctly the start of this route is damn hard. Something like a V2/V3?
Best route at the cliff!


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: Dom When: Aug 29, 2012

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Comments: I'll second the 'climb the Kurt's Corner variation'. Very Beautiful dihedral. After the dihedral, head right to find some gear to belay off of.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : Henry (5.11b)
By: Dom When: Aug 23, 2012

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Comments: I thought I was going to get hurt on this climb. The onsight felt spicy! Yep Very atypical of the Red.


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : ... : Diurnal pegs (5.11+ R)
By: Dom When: Aug 17, 2012

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Comments: I looked a this route a few times and it looks like there is gear at the start?? I guess I'll have to climb it to find out.


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford
By: Dom When: Aug 10, 2012

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Comments: Hey Ian, Bald Peak is on CFB Gagetown. The parking isn't but the cliff is. Anyways, I'll try to fix all this so that Eagle Rock doesn't get the Access message.


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : ... : Cornifluge (5.12b)
By: Dom When: Aug 9, 2012

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Comments: Can be done with quickdraws only! There is a 15' runout at the end on 5.2 terrain if you don't place gear.


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : ... : The Hex Wall
By: Dom When: Aug 1, 2012

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Comments: Hehe I check it pretty often and saw that you were adding routes on MP. What can I say, I work in front of a computer hehe!


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : ... : The Hex Wall
By: Dom When: Aug 1, 2012

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Comments: Hey Ian, you should report these on CEC as well. Most people in NB don't check MP.

W2W looks good.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Michael's Pin (5.10a)
By: Dom When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: Was there a pin at the crux once upon a time? Hard to protect the crux I found although I had good gear right underneath me. cool line!


Location: International : Europe : France : Ceuse : Secture Biograpie : Saint Georges Picos (5.11d)
By: Dom When: Jul 5, 2012

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Comments: I remember climbing this route right after a huge thunderstorm. Biggest one I've seen in my life. Memorable Céuse moment...


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Pipe Dreams (5.12b)
By: Dom When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: This is such a great route. Pins are solid, I tested a few of them, especially the one at the crux ;-)


Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Sobrio : Photo
By: Dom When: Jun 27, 2012

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Comments: faack, that looks sweet!


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : ... : Bullwhip days (5.11b)
By: Dom When: Jun 27, 2012

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Comments: Gear beta.

clip the Astroboy direct anchor. In the first horizontal put a 0.3BD, then a 0.4 BD. clip the bolt. In the next horizontal. Slot a grey metolius, then a 0.75 BD. clip the next two bolts. Then in a long horizontal jug, place a 0.4 BD. Just after place a purple metolius in a small alcove. Finally place a 0.5 in a jug on the left. Medium nuts could also be used in a nice vertical crack here. Voilà! All this in 60ft of climbing


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : ... : La Duchesse (WI4+ R)
By: Dom When: Jun 27, 2012

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Comments: 15M= 15feet?


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