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Moby dick 5.11-


Member Since: Dec 8, 2007
Last Visit: 12 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 572
Total Points: 1,176
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 3
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dom been climbing?










Contributions


All 1031 | Routes 47 | Areas 10 | Photos 95 | Page Improvements | Comments 81 | Posts 207 | Stars 323 | Ratings 268
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Fun pocketed slab climb

Fun pocketed slab climb

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Motha (5.7)

Mar 11, 2008

Putting a 1 Camalot in the pockets on Motha

Putting a 1 Camalot in the pockets on Motha

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Motha (5.7)

Mar 11, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Bas-Saint-Laurent : ... : Joker (5.11d)
By: Dom When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: It has its own anchor.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Bas-Saint-Laurent : ... : Hommage Radoth (5.11d)
By: Dom When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: Un vrai 11d.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Bas-Saint-Laurent : ... : Salle d'attente (Graffiti) (5.12a)
By: Dom When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: I would echo the comment regarding the pre-hung draw and add that I like to have a nice 25cm draw there.


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : ... : Cave Area
By: Dom When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments:



Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Central Scrutinizer (5.9)
By: Dom When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: @Train4life - I think you put the finger on it.

My climbing area has a ton of gear protected slabs filled with tiny cracks akin to what you can find on this route.

Cheers,


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Apoplexy (5.9)
By: Dom When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: This line is wonderful. Spicy crux down low leads to great flowy climbing above. The roof was full of jugs and i would call it 5.7...I also didn't use anything above a 0.75 despite bringing up to a #3.
I didn't protect the flake deeming too loose and had I fallen there, I estimate that it would've been real close to a deck fall, hence the PG rating. YMMV.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Bob Marley : Tacit (5.12a)
By: Dom When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments:



Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : Yellow Brick Road (WI3+) : Photo
By: Dom When: Jan 31, 2013

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Comments: Man that looks thin!!!

Signed - A Canadian :)


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Central Scrutinizer (5.9)
By: Dom When: Dec 14, 2012

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Comments: I don't understand why so many people feel this is a 4 star route?...I didn't find anything special with this route and am puzzled what so many people found so awesome about it.

Anyways, just thought I'd rant a little, after all it's just rock climbing :-).


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Boneyard : Flying Serpents (5.12a)
By: Dom When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: When I sent this thing I just couldn't stop to clip the last bolt so I took the decision to skip it altogether. Falling from the top probably would've resulted in decking. I remember thinking it wasn't well bolted but haven't been on it since so maybe I was wrong then?


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Giant Man (5.12b/c)
By: Dom When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: Hey What's the deal with the monster detached jug just beneath the second to last bolt? Has it been reinforced? Seems terribly hollow and that would certainly be a widow maker if it came down...

Nice route, the crux is definitely getting to the jug just above the anchor. The rest is 5.11 except maybe for one small easier crux in the middle.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Millenium Falcon (5.10c)
By: Dom When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: I climbed it last weekend and thought it was mildly overrated. Sure it's a nice climb but IMO, is definitely not the best 5.10 in Rumney.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Bonsai : Social Distortion (5.12a/b)
By: Dom When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: Cool S. Neoh. What I said didn't have a link with what you said. Just thought I'd post that this is a climb that would be easier for taller climbers.

The climber I was with is also 5'6'' and he had to do an extra super crimpy move.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Bonsai : Social Distortion (5.12a/b)
By: Dom When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: By looking at the 'crux' picture, I can tell that the route can feel easier if you're tall. I'm 5'9'' and I had to do an intermediate move to get to where he is on the picture. That intermediate move was definitely the crux.


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Gondola Point : My Mother Is A Half Motorbo... (5.10a)
By: Dom When: Aug 30, 2012

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Comments: If I remember correctly the start of this route is damn hard. Something like a V2/V3?
Best route at the cliff!


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: Dom When: Aug 29, 2012

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Comments: I'll second the 'climb the Kurt's Corner variation'. Very Beautiful dihedral. After the dihedral, head right to find some gear to belay off of.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : Henry (5.11b)
By: Dom When: Aug 23, 2012

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Comments: I thought I was going to get hurt on this climb. The onsight felt spicy! Yep Very atypical of the Red.


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : ... : Diurnal pegs (5.11+ R)
By: Dom When: Aug 17, 2012

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Comments: I looked a this route a few times and it looks like there is gear at the start?? I guess I'll have to climb it to find out.


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford
By: Dom When: Aug 10, 2012

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Comments: Hey Ian, Bald Peak is on CFB Gagetown. The parking isn't but the cliff is. Anyways, I'll try to fix all this so that Eagle Rock doesn't get the Access message.


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : ... : Cornifluge (5.12b)
By: Dom When: Aug 9, 2012

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Comments: Can be done with quickdraws only! There is a 15' runout at the end on 5.2 terrain if you don't place gear.


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : ... : The Hex Wall
By: Dom When: Aug 1, 2012

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Comments: Hehe I check it pretty often and saw that you were adding routes on MP. What can I say, I work in front of a computer hehe!


Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : ... : The Hex Wall
By: Dom When: Aug 1, 2012

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Comments: Hey Ian, you should report these on CEC as well. Most people in NB don't check MP.

W2W looks good.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Michael's Pin (5.10a)
By: Dom When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: Was there a pin at the crux once upon a time? Hard to protect the crux I found although I had good gear right underneath me. cool line!


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