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Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style


Member Since: Sep 26, 2008
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact doligo


Point Rank: # 1,664
Total Points: 335
Last Year: 10
Last 30 Days: 0
22 Compliments
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Contributions


All (1179) | Routes (5) | Areas | Photos (36) | Comments (105) | Posts (790) | Stars (168) | Ratings (75)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Pente (5.11-)
By: doligo When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: The chockstones just to the right of the climber in this picture: www.mountainproject.com/v/106046516 are VERY LOOSE! Don't belay from the cave, but rather from the left side of the boulder at the base. It would be nice if someone can trundle the blocks on rappel (we didn't have a second rope, so had to be lowered with some shenanigans with an 80). Oh and btw, 80M doesn't make it - the climb must be close to 160, rather than 150.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Provo Canyon : Provo Canyon Ice : Bridal Veil Right (WI4-5) : Photo
By: doligo When: Jan 17, 2014

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Comments: I hope you brought a knife!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : ... : Photo
By: doligo When: Sep 26, 2013

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Comments: There are so many awesome things going on in this photo - I love it! Like shoe laces over the soles, approach shoes taped together, and a tiny little red backpack that makes it look like the dude borrowed it from his kindergartner.


Location: GA : Rocktown : Asphalt Boulders : Golden Showers (V4-5) : Photo
By: doligo When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: whoa! what kind of rock is this?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cloud's Rest : My Favorite Things (5.10a)
By: doligo When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: Did this in Sep. 2012 - after much slab traversing back and forth and soloing some sketchy terrain, finally got on the route at the top of P6 (above the two-bolt anchor, at the base of the 5.8 hand crack). If I were to do it again, here is how I'd approach it - take the airplane gully all the way down to the river, locate the "Golden Boulder" (big golden boulder on the valley floor) - the route is straight above the Golden Boulder - just climb up the slabs the path of the least resistance. I kno... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road
By: doligo When: Mar 2, 2013

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Comments: +1 what Erik said, please read the Watch article cited above. Please yield to the traffic and please do not park right in front of the "Road Closed" gate, but rather park in the designated parking pullout on the left.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity
By: doligo When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: Just a heads up, there was a big rockfall on Halloween night 2012 - friends witnessed it from the Creek Pasture around 5pm. We climbed at the Cliffs the next day and found a rubble with bus-size boulders just right from the Puzzle Factory. That whole stretch of the trail is destroyed - thread lightly.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Dark Star (5.10+)
By: doligo When: Aug 3, 2012

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Comments: As of 8/2/12, fixed ropes are still in place on the descent. Also, there is a big hornets nest in the beginning of the peg traverse on P2 - beware and make sure to extend the left corner piece before moving on (seemed like the tension was bringing the rope too close to the nest and riling the bees up).


Location: doligo : imalush : Photo
By: doligo When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: It was actually created out of desperation - we were out of mixers, turned out to work pretty well!


Location: CO : Mobile Apps: Completely Fre...
By: doligo When: May 16, 2012

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Comments: Congrats and nice work!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Mouse Meat (5.10+ PG13)
By: doligo When: Apr 25, 2012

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Comments: This route can go entirely on passives. Small nuts are way more helpful, IMO. Questionable rock in some spots.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride : Bridalveil area : Bridalveil Falls (WI5-6)
By: doligo When: Mar 22, 2012

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Comments: Awesome, awesome, awesome! Felt a bit like the Gunks climbing - pull overhang, rest, pull another overhang, rest... Because of good rests, felt a bit easier than the Ames, but it's definitely a lot steeper.

Next time, I would use the V-threads for raps - on the freehanging rappel off the bolts, my ropes dislodged a microwave-sized ice chunk off the icicle that luckily only brushed me on my thigh, phew!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: doligo When: Feb 21, 2012

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Comments: Where is your head bucket, girl? Out of all places I found Eldo scary loose, yikes.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Slippery When Wet (WI4)
By: doligo When: Feb 9, 2012

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Comments: 60m rope comfortably gets you all the way to the tree from the road. One double rope rappel or two single ones (there is an intermediate above the first ice bulge) will get you down.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: doligo When: Dec 9, 2011

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Comments: Hot naked men on Naked Edge! How did the chimney go with shirts off?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Egg Drop Soup (5.12)
By: doligo When: Nov 5, 2011

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Comments: Hey, Skyeler. Glad you are ok. My partner has your cams, if your friends are still at the Creek, would be glad to get them back to you. Am curious - where did you pull the block from? Above or below the chains? The crack below the chains looks super clean.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: doligo When: Oct 4, 2011

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Comments: The arete is no way 5.8 or 5.7 PG as the book says. 5.6 and the gear is all there (small cams mostly).


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Brain Cramps (5.9+)
By: doligo When: Sep 29, 2011

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Comments: Ken Trout's book says it's Straw Turkey's clone. I didn't find any similarities between these two climbs.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Reefer Madness (5.8)
By: doligo When: Sep 29, 2011

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Comments: Left #4 back in the car - found it wasn't needed on this climb.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : The Eastern Front (5.8)
By: doligo When: Sep 29, 2011

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Comments: 60m rope just makes it to the ground. I would start the climb on the handcrack on the face just to the left of the corner - you can still make it to the roof traverse if you start it on the face. Makes a more sustained aesthetic line.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Miss Bailey (5.6 PG13)
By: doligo When: Aug 13, 2011

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Comments: Wow, one of my favorite climbs in the Trapps now. Every pitch is great. The chimney is just a tiny bit scary enough, but it tapers down so if you fall you're not going anywhere (BETA: it is possible to get a microcam in the the seam that goes up Matinee, if you are unsure of your chimneying). P2 finger crack face moves are definitely stiffer than 5.6, the P3 traverse is on tiny feet but bomber fist jams.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Jewels and Gems : In The Rough (5.7+)
By: doligo When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: The roof is mild by Gunks standards, but has so-so gear. OW is harder than it looks - don't they all?


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Mount Moran : CMC Route (5.5)
By: doligo When: Aug 2, 2011

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Comments: You can rent a canoe at Dornan's - around $45 for 3 days I think...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Absurdland (5.8)
By: doligo When: Aug 2, 2011

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Comments: The first crux is not that bad, and you can stick a #3 after your climb past the #2 to keep you off the ground fall. The second crux protects well by a 0.3 - a headier move than the first one, IMO. The rest of the climb is a cruiser.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Le Teton (5.9+)
By: doligo When: Aug 2, 2011

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Comments: Paul: yes, it is described here, I believe: mountainproject.com/v/tetonia/106889345

Makes it a nice longer and sustained climb.


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