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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: docsavage When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bill - your post reminds me of my first time on the Knife Edge in December 1975. Party of four roping through a rime-encrusted W to finish with a rappel & traverse to the Ramp right at sunset (that comes no later than 6 PM in winter), descending by headlamp & somehow winding up on the Movie Trail ...
'Such is youth' - Herman Melville.
On the plus side this does put you right back at your car. That last bit of trail/road slogging (if you didn't leave a vehicle) can get a bit tedious....
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : ... : Photo
By: docsavage When: Mar 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yikes! ... exposure.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: docsavage When: Mar 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Steven VanSickle - Intriguing approach for a top-to-top ascent of the Knife Edge. I'll have to try it some time. What I like about Piedra Lisa-Chimney Canyon though (or La Luz, or tram descent) is it gives the whole project a mountaineering feel....
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Donald Duck : Northeast Corner (5.6)
By: docsavage When: Mar 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There would be no shame in upgrading this pitch. NE Corner was my second climb in the Sandias. In 1974 my partner & I came across a mutual friend (Paul Seibert) who had just led it. His wife (Linda) could not follow. I graciously volunteered thinking it would be at least a good warmup for our own project that day, Mexican Breakfast Crack. Instead it darn near ruined my self esteem for that second ascent. At the top Paul suggested it was a tad harder than 5.6. And I timidly agreed. 5.8- s... more >>
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Location: International : Africa : Kenya : Mt Kenya : Southeast Face of Nelion (1... (5.8) : ... : Photo
By: docsavage When: Mar 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome!
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Photo
By: docsavage When: Mar 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Check out the original drawing by Rick Charron ...
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Waterfall Canyon : ... : Photo
By: docsavage When: Mar 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The New Mexico Climber was a climbing newsletter that ran intermittently through the late 1970s. Those interested in perusing these artifacts may find them on these other pages in Mountain Project:
El Malpais
Organ Mountains
The Tooth
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Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : 1096 (5.11b/c) : Photo
By: docsavage When: Feb 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The New Mexico Climber, Fall 1977, page 4. Other scans of this historical artifact may be found here:
www.mountainproject.com/v/107993029#a_107993049
www.mountainproject.com/v/107994190#a_107994191
www.mountainproject.com/v/107994697#a_107994707
www.mountainproject.com/v/107994820#a_107994827
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Tooth : Photo
By: docsavage When: Feb 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The New Mexico Climber was a climbing newsletter that ran intermittently through the late 1970s. Its goal was to record the many routes going up at the time. While George Bell tracked activity in the Brazos, Mike Hill compiled beta for the Sandias and Dick Ingraham kept an informal log for the Organs there were still no published guidebooks for these areas. It is amusing to remember how much effort went into each edition of The Climber. Thankfully there was never any lack of contributors but... more >>
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Photo
By: docsavage When: Feb 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The New Mexico Climber was a climbing newsletter that ran intermittently through the late 1970s. Those interested in perusing these artifacts may find them on these other pages in Mountain Project:
www.mountainproject.com/v/107993029#a_107993049
www.mountainproject.com/v/107994820
www.mountainproject.com/v/107994839
www.mountainproject.com/v/107994190#a_107994191
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Photo
By: docsavage When: Feb 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The New Mexico Climber was a climbing newsletter that ran intermittently through the late 1970s. Those interested in perusing these artifacts may find them on these other pages in Mountain Project:
www.mountainproject.com/v/107993029#a_107993049
www.mountainproject.com/v/107994697
www.mountainproject.com/v/107994820
www.mountainproject.com/v/107994839
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Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : Photo
By: docsavage When: Feb 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The New Mexico Climber was a climbing newsletter that ran intermittently through the late 1970s. Its goal was to record the many routes going up at the time. While George Bell tracked activity in the Brazos, Mike Hill compiled beta for the Sandias and Dick Ingraham kept an informal log for the Organs there were still no published guidebooks for these areas. It is amusing to remember how much effort went into each edition of The Climber. Thankfully there was never any lack of contributors but... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Northwest Ridge (5.5)
By: docsavage When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Northwest Ridge goes so many different ways it seems a bit silly to try & tweak it. Nevertheless from having soloed it a half dozen times since 1976 here are a few tips to make it the most enjoyable experience:
1) When in doubt, go left. This holds for everything except P3.
2) On P3 where going left leads to the ring piton variation you can avoid this dirty, loose & exposed pitch by taking a more center line trending right toward the 'squeeze variation' (more of a wide dihedral actually ... more >>
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Tooth : Photo
By: docsavage When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The weather is much better now ... ;)
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: docsavage When: Jan 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: And I can remember looking up from the base & thinking: 'You have got to be kidding!' Three days later we were up ...
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: docsavage When: Jan 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet ... that's an angle you don't usually get.
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Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : Mt. Cosmic Debris (5.10) : Photo
By: docsavage When: Dec 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If memory serves one of the W side routes takes the prominent crack system on the right. Two pitches, 5.8 - Black Hole - it's better than the name might imply (gets a bit gritty at the top). One of the neater summits to stand on however you get to it....
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Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : Photo
By: docsavage When: Nov 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Plus a sweet little basalt chasm between the rock & the road that we were always a little too focused on the sandstone to investigate....
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Photo
By: docsavage When: Sep 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crack through the roof is not to be missed. And while the traverse right that follows is dicey it soon leads to a pair of first rate pitches of unparalleled exposure....
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Durangutan (5.10c)
By: docsavage When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: @ Bryan & Ken - memory is a funny thing. Ideally my contribution clarifies rather than adds confusion:
In the summer of 1980, it was our understanding - we three NM climbers, namely myself, Paul Horak, & Mark Leonard (not Glen Banks) - that we were on Durangutan to do the FA link-up of all 3 pitches, P1 & P2 having already been led while P3 had only been top-roped. After a free lead of P1 where I left a drilled angle, Ken Trout re-led P2 on which all protection was already placed. Mark Leona... more >>
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Rio Arriba County (Brazos, ... : Brazos Cliffs
By: docsavage When: Jul 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: An early attempt at a winter ascent of the Brazos Cliffs. Why do a winter ascent of the Brazos Cliffs? That is a very good question! Enjoy ...
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Location: NM : New Mexico Navajolands : Barber Peak : Southeast Gully (5.8+) : Photo
By: docsavage When: Jun 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Steve - or it could just be mine & my partner's preference for crack over even such few short face moves as occur higher....
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound
By: docsavage When: Jun 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: More early U-Mound bouldering ...
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound
By: docsavage When: Jun 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds like Gabe & Debbie have been at it again ...
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Mountain Momma (5.10c)
By: docsavage When: May 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: In supplement to both Dave Baltz's & Kevin Jaramillo's historical notes, it should be mentioned that Mike Roybal & Peter Prandoni did extensive reconnaissance work on Mountain Momma (at least to the top of P3) prior to Udall & VanWinkel's FA. In fact there was a sense at the time that they had more or less poached the route from this team, although to my knowledge no hard feelings ever attached to the deed....
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