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Wonderstuff


Member Since: Aug 20, 2009
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact dnoB ekiM

Point Rank: # 635
Total Points: 1,046
Last Year: 127
Last 30 Days: 42
6 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has dnoB ekiM been climbing?










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Contributions


All 1364 | Routes 52 | Areas 7 | Photos 71 | Page Improvements | Comments 96 | Posts 115 | Stars 626 | Ratings 397
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Blue Sky Bluff
By: dnoB ekiM When: May 10, 2015

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Comments: Grant, Those signs must be new. The marked parking was the paved pullouts (maybe 100 yards before the big tree and closer to the visitor center) and not the area by the big tree at the start of the hike (that area has always been posted as no parking). If the pullouts are now marked as no parking...that's a new thing (and pretty consistent with some other odd-ball parking closures/destructions {i.e. Filling in the old cathedral rock parking with 4ft of dirt/rock} up there in recent years). I... more >>


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Aragon : Rodellar : ... : Bikini (5.11b)
By: dnoB ekiM When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: Totally agree with the description. I bet this was a great 5.10 when it was bolted 30 years ago (1985)! It is now probably the most polished route in the world every hold squeaks its so slippery. Given 6A (5.10A) in the new (black) guide! Probably closer to 11A in its current condition!


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Pyrenees : Santa Linya : ... : Inferno (5.11c)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Apr 18, 2015

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Comments: There is a large bee colony living in the hole with the small tree in it as of 4-17-2015. Hundreds of bees there. They were docile, but wise to avoid this route and the one to the right.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Margalef : ... : El dia de la bestia (5.11d)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: Far left route at Can Verdures 5.11D; Shares anchor with Baginades (10D).
Not too good. Small hold crux and a cruxy clip.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Margalef : ... : Chachi qui Chapi (5.11d)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Mar 13, 2015

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Comments: A classic! Not to be missed. An amazing line of pocket that don't hurt (like so many pockets do here). A pumpy little masterpiece!


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Margalef : ... : Estilson (5.12a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Mar 5, 2015

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Comments: Sharp! This thing is so painful through all the hard moves.


Location: NV : Arrow Canyon
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: Le Reve and La Lune are on the right side of the big dirty looking cave/hole that is across from and before the swamp cave (on the right as you approach the swamp cave).


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall
By: dnoB ekiM When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: VERY VERY good wall. Complex/confusing approach. Fine new addition. Really good rock!!!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Divine Comedy (5.10a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: Great line on really good rock!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Jessica's Wall
By: dnoB ekiM When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: Nice crag! Routes are short but very good on good rock! Complex approach (but maybe we did not know the best way). This and Dante's are GREAT! We missed The Chasm, but we did find and climb at the other wall (white/sandy) between Jessica's and Dante's. Three routes there that were a bit chossy (unlike the amazing rock at Jessica's and Dante's) but still quite fun. The steeper (right) route on that wall will be really good after a lot of traffic.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Jessica's Wall : Big Head (5.10a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: Awesome! 4 stars if it weren't so short! Nice find of a crag!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : The Last Drag (5.10a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Oct 11, 2014

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Comments: Anchor is now Shut and Mussy Hook Combo.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Blame it on my ADD (5.9)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Oct 11, 2014

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Comments: Anchor is now a Shut and Mussy Hook combo.

These routes get a lot of traffic. The old lowering biner couldn't hack it. Mussy should last much longer and is, of course, easy to replace.

wear
wear


wear2
wear2



Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : The Big Short (5.8)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Oct 11, 2014

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Comments: Now has double mussy hook anchor.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Fall of Vegas (5.10a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Oct 11, 2014

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Comments: Anchors replaced with 1/2" x 4.5" stainless Powers. Bolts and hangers courtesy of ASCA. I also added Mussy hooks. The anchor is now a couple feet lower to prevent the rope rub issue caused by the old location.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector Shinto : Dope Shinto (5.12a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Classic! Amazing rock. I felt like the moves and clip of the last bolt were the crux...more so than the bottom (given the pump). Great great line!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Home Alone : Freaks and Phonies (5.10b)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: As good as the other routes here. Obviously far less traveled, but a worthwhile route!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Home Alone : Always Keep it Loaded (5.12a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Great route! Really hard clip for the 5th bolt. The crux is clipping this bolt. Not sure if this hold has broken over time. This whole area is great. The bolting is a bit more spacey than most of TS.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: +1 Ten Sleep Brewing Company!!

Great beer ( perhaps the best pale ale I have ever had), cool owner, superb location! Love it!
Also has showers and laundry if you are camping in the canyon!!!
Check it out!


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Rode Hard Wall : Wind and Rattlesnakes (5.12a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: Great Route! Appears to be recently rebolted with glue-ins. Anyone know what type of bolt the second glue-in is? Really thin in comparison to the others. I'm not saying anything is wrong with that bolt; I'm just interested in what it is. Saw a similar one on another route or two at Wild Iris (first bolt of Limestone Cowboy).


Location: Patrick R. M. : Personal Photo : Photo
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: This looks like Stay Foolish (the 11b). Congrats on the send!
Nice pic! You should post/link it to the page for this route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Amusement Park
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 5, 2014

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Comments: John,

I generally agree with your commentary. I am a big proponent of high quality fixed gear. Stainless and good brands (Powers, Hilti, Fixe). For lowering mussys, given the general overkill beefiness and redundancy of the equipment for the given application (not to mention the lack of permanency)...I tend to disagree that they are inadequate.

However, everyone should make their own risk management decisions. For me, despite being a chicken on such things...I feel totally safe lowering o... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Amusement Park
By: dnoB ekiM When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: James,

No peeing match intended. Sorry if it sounded that way (tone is a hard thing to communicate or hear on the interwebs).

I was just defending Dan's work here. I agree it is a nice beginner crag, and he used good gear to equip it. (Ok, I am fan of stainless, but you can't convince most people that it matters in the desert. So, I get it.) After playing around with a variety of anchor options, I now prefer mussy's in most single pitch scenarios. When I get time to revisit some of my... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Amusement Park
By: dnoB ekiM When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Black Diamond Equipment Asia located in Zhuhai, China produces many of the company’s products.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Di...

Also true for many other manufacturer's


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Amusement Park
By: dnoB ekiM When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: You know most of your climbing gear is made in China too....right?
Those mussys could be wayyyyy under there intended rating and still be wayyyy stronger than needed for the forces they will see from lowering/rapping.

Those mussys are fine and a great option for this cliff.

Of course, you could always chip in and replace them with some finely made Draco lower-offs from Fixe. I'm sure Dan would not mind.

fixehardware.com/shop/anchors/... ... more >>


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