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Head full of lead. Photo by Frosty Weller


Member Since: Sep 10, 2005
Last Visit: Jul 19, 2014
Contact D@n


Point Rank: # 2,818
Total Points: 171
Last Year: 22
Last 30 Days: 2
52 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has D@n been climbing?










Contributions


All 170 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 26 | Page Improvments | Comments 31 | Posts 60 | Stars 46 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : Pinche Guey (5.12-)
By: D@n When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: Broke off the little finger divot at the slab crux. Still goes and not much harder. Fun route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : El Gallito (5.11)
By: D@n When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: A lower first bolt and another bolt below the tricky stem would make this route a lot more enjoyable. I'd be happy to do it with the permission of the first ascent party. Anyone know who that might be? Samet?


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : Photo
By: D@n When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: Nice hammer.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wasteland : Automatic Leg Spreader (5.12c)
By: D@n When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: In case you were wondering, the route name came from two places: 1) the stemming nature of the route and 2) Nas singing 'Got Yourself A Gun' on Spotify while coming over Vail Pass en route to Rifle.

"Who am I? The back twister, lingerie ripper, automatic leg spreader, quicker brain getter, keepin' it gangsta wit' ya!"


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff
By: D@n When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: Flagstaff is CLOSED to all non-residents as of October 24, 2013. I called OSMP and they confirmed the closure. Asked if I could walk up and was told I'd have to get past the ranger at the bottom. I have no idea what that means. Probably just steer clear of this area until it re-opens. When it does, it will be posted on OSMP re-opened climbing areas.


Location: Climbing Gear Discussion : Homemade ice axe : Photo
By: D@n When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: Yer gonna die..


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Party World : TKFP (5.10a)
By: D@n When: Sep 18, 2013

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Comments: In 2001 I pulled off a 3' flake at the top of this route. Frightening.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Wendell Spire : Photo
By: D@n When: Mar 8, 2013

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Comments: Do these routes stay dry in the rain or during snowmelt events?


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : Photo
By: D@n When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: So when BH sent this route, was stick-clipping as in vogue as spandex? I'd like to do this route without fear of having my ankles shoved up my spine but was scared that having the first three bolts would be invalid salad.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Acrobatic Overhang (V5 R)
By: D@n When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: The landing has been leveled, and there is no need for the R rating any longer.

I don't really know how to feel about the extensive landscaping that took place here. On one hand, I'm grateful to finally have a terrific warmup on perfect rock with a safe landing zone. On the other, the landscaping totally changes the nature of this climb and the bold, visionary, first ascent will never again be pause for reflection when one contemplates this line.

I hope that in the future, when traffic and e... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Nook's Rock : Battaglia's Bottom (V7-8)
By: D@n When: Mar 2, 2012

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Comments: This problem deserves more credit than the above description gives it. Good rock. Fun moves. Steep. I imagine it would be an excellent place to escape the heat in the summer as well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : The Capstan : Just Right (V7)
By: D@n When: Jan 1, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the videos, Mr. Beal. I'm looking forward to trying the low start.

Question about the topout: The way I've done it before is to have the hold above the pocket with the right hand and have my left hand at the pinch on the left side of the crack near the lip. The crux for me is then to put my right foot in the pocket and rock over it with my left hand on some very thin flakes on the slab above. This really makes for a rather committing topout. I can't say if this way would be easier t... more >>


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree...
By: D@n When: Jul 7, 2011

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Comments: No road closure from Eagle to Lime Creek. The Prius made it fine this last weekend (4th of July).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge
By: D@n When: Jun 15, 2011

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Comments: No Dogs Allowed.
In my ignorance, I brought my dog to Lumpy and on the way out received a 20 minute lecture and a $100 ticket.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks
By: D@n When: Apr 23, 2011

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Comments: Fire ban in effect as of 3/30/11. No campfires or charcoal grills. Gas grills okay. For more info check Douglas County here:

www.cofireban.info/


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : New Horizon (5.12d)
By: D@n When: Mar 7, 2011

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Comments: Dang... while relentlessly dogging my way up NH, I think I managed to grope pretty much the entire first 20 feet of LH and thought 'hey... this thing might go...' but now... not so much.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : New Horizon (5.12d)
By: D@n When: Mar 6, 2011

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Comments: Anyone know the grade for Lost Horizon?


Location: D@n : Front Range : Photo
By: D@n When: Aug 25, 2010

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Comments: Lyons. Due to access issues I'd rather not put this area on MP.com so PM me if you want specifics.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab
By: D@n When: Mar 4, 2010

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Comments: It's open. Hasn't been officially announced until parking is sorted out. See Access Fund article:
www.accessfund.org/site/apps/nlnet/content2.aspx?c=tmL5KhNWL>>>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Rain Shadow (5.12b)
By: D@n When: Jul 12, 2009

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Comments: What's up with finishing on the Flying Beast anchors? Doesn't Rain Shadow have its own set of manky tat anchors to go to? I don't blame anyone for not wanting to use those anchors as they're definitely not as confidence inspiring as the ones on FB but continuing directly up the crack in the corner seems like the intended line. Did Dan Hare have anything to say about the finish when the above video was made?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : ... : Photo
By: D@n When: Jun 12, 2009

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Comments: That's a great shot. How did you blur the background like that?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : The Big Baby (5.11) : Photo
By: D@n When: Apr 9, 2009

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Comments: Lon, you da man! I got so schooled starting 10' above the bolt.... Wish I would have had more than one #6.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Photo
By: D@n When: Apr 7, 2009

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Comments: Moonflower. Where'd you find this growing?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Mighty Dog (5.12c)
By: D@n When: Feb 8, 2009

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Comments: 'There definitely is a great no-hands rest if you find the appropriate kneebar right before you pull the crux moves.'

Can anyone describe the no-hands rest kneebar before the crux? Nate?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Criminal Mischief (5.12a)
By: D@n When: Nov 3, 2008

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Comments: Good route. ***Shameless Beta Follows***

From the handjam just over the lip, gaston the sloping rail, turn the handjam into a sidepull and walk your feet up to good edges on the left face and then mantle.


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