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Member Since: Feb 9, 2002
Last Visit: Jun 14, 2011
Contact Dmitriy Zinchenko


Point Rank: # 5,777
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Areas are worth 15
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Where has Dmitriy Zinchenko been climbing?










Dmitriy Zinchenko

 
Contributions

Contributions


All (35) | Routes (2) | Areas | Photos (3) | Comments (19) | Posts | Stars (8) | Ratings (3)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Holy Ascension

5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ E7 6c C1-2 (1)

Trad, TR, Aid, 1 pitch, 60'

CO : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress

May 19, 2009

Dark Magic

C3 (3)

Aid, 1 pitch

CO : Boulder Canyon : Practice Rock

Feb 9, 2002

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Jaguary: straight up the crack system <br />Jagged Ascension (12): follow bolts just to the left.

Jaguary: straight up the crack system Jagged Ascension (12): follow bolts just to the left.

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Jaguary (5.11b PG13)

May 19, 2009

Start of Holy Ascension. The two bolts to the right are for Jagged Ascension.

Start of Holy Ascension. The two bolts to the right are for Jagged Ascension.

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Holy Ascension (5.13- C1-2)

May 19, 2009

Looking up at Peapod. There are two fixed pins on the route. One just below the triangle roof, and one on the left crack variation (11d).

Looking up at Peapod. There are two fixed pins on the route. One just below the triangle roof, and one on the left crack variation (11d).

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Peapod (5.11c)

May 19, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Pfeifferhorn : North Ridge (5.4 Easy Snow) : Photo
By: Dmitriy Zinchenko When: Jun 4, 2009

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Comments: epic photo


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : To The Sun (5.5)
By: Dmitriy Zinchenko When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: Merlin is spot on about traversing right to the tree before you start climbing up the buttress. The climb is very much like Pine Tree Route lower down in the canyon - relatively easy and low angle with OK to decent pro. I didn't think it was that bad. Not to be missed is the final, steep handcrack that's short (sadly) and protects with a #3 Camalot.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Peapod (5.11c) : Photo
By: Dmitriy Zinchenko When: May 19, 2009

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Comments: The shallow groove just to the right of Peapod's initial corner isn't listed in Rossiter's book but can be aided at C1-C2 and connects up to Peapod via one or two hook moves. Bring the small stuff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Malign (5.7)
By: Dmitriy Zinchenko When: Oct 19, 2005

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Comments: This was one of my first 5.7 leads and is quite momorable. Fun variations of moves keep things interesting and the gear is usually quite abundant. I was able to place anything from a blue TCU to a 3.5 Camalot, but since the route is a bit on the long side for Happy Hour, pack an adequate amount of pro. Right before the top you will see two finger-ish cracks: keep to the left one to avoid crossing ropes with anyone on Nightcap. Also, the belay ledge is quite roomy enough for two or three, should ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress
By: Dmitriy Zinchenko When: Jul 7, 2004

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Comments: If you park just past Cob (like Greg K. suggested) beware the poison ivy that litters the first leg of the approach trail. I've found that passing below the Rock w/3 Cracks is a little easier of a trail if you're going to the fallen tree.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : East Face/Dinosaur Rock (5.4)
By: Dmitriy Zinchenko When: Dec 12, 2002

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Comments: This is great trad and solo route. It's short and provides plenty of good resting spots. The gear might be somewhat limited but I think the climbing is generally easier than the 3rd. Try to protect the crux as much as you can because there is tumble potential here. I think the only part of this route that absolutely sucks is the descent. Either lower your second across the sharp summit ridge or just unrope and freesolo down some featureless 5.0 I personally climbed the descent route first and... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Electra Glide
By: Dmitriy Zinchenko When: Dec 5, 2002

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Comments: Maybe it's just me but the top-rope access is pretty crappy (no well-defined trail). You'll be doing some bushwacking if you don't watch where you're going.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Practice Rock : Dark Magic (C3)
By: Dmitriy Zinchenko When: Nov 7, 2002

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Comments: I want to thank whoever removed the #1 copperhead from the start of this route. At the time it seemed like the most novel idea but in retrospect, its existence is not warranted by any need. Instead, I would now advocate maybe using a micro cam-hook, or some offset brass. Another part of the climb even goes free with decent gear. Use your own judgement and climb as clean as possible, I know that I will after this.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Aid Roof (C2)
By: Dmitriy Zinchenko When: Oct 24, 2002

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Comments: It's a bummer that your QDs got stolen, man. However,Castle Rock is primarily a trad area and getting stuff stolen is something to take into consideration when leaving gear behind in areas where such practice is rare (unlike sport-crags). I think that taking the bolt hangers, though, is a much worse offense because its affects go beyond one or two folks trying to free the route. In the particular case of Aid Roof, the bolts really don't matter because it's still just C1. But imagine someone ai... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : A's Jax (5.8)
By: Dmitriy Zinchenko When: Oct 6, 2002

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Comments: This route has one of the sweetest top outs in BC; a big grassy ledge with some shade and great views. Be careful with the bush just below the dihedral starts, it can snag your rope. The last pitch can be aided at C1 and provides an excellent link-up with Holy Ascension (C2(+?) or 5.13). Most routes adjacent to A's Jax's third pitch can be accessed by scrambling from the left to the top of Peapod's belay ledge and following easy 4th class to the upper ledge system.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Aid Roof (C2)
By: Dmitriy Zinchenko When: Sep 23, 2002

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Comments: A boulder problem, huh? Interesting. The route goes free at 5.14 and when I solo-aided it, all the bolts had QDs on them (hope you finally worked it buddy). Don't kid yourself into thinking this is a first-timer aid route. I saw a party bail after the first bolt and then spend 20 minutes trying to rap off the bolt in high winds. Keep it low in your aiders. You can cheater-stick between bolts if you absolutely have to, but why?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : E of East Slab East (5.7)
By: Dmitriy Zinchenko When: Sep 15, 2002

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Comments: The finger crack is the 5.7 crux of the route, and you do have to smear a bit. The other 5.7 part is the right hand-jam exit, protected with a 2" cam.

A good variation to this route that greatly reduced rope drag is to get to the ramp and continue straight up via a series of right-facing flakes. This way is more sustained 5.6 (with less pro) but gets you directly to the black streak. The (harder) right exit ends with a sloping 3" crack, so don't be surprised. Great naturals for the top anchor,... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Doc's Route (5.7)
By: Dmitriy Zinchenko When: Sep 11, 2002

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Comments: The crux 5.7 protects with a single #7 stopper at about eye level. Clip a single biner to this, and then clip the bolt once you're through. If that nut pulls out later, who cares? The other partially cruxy section is after the ledge, but the bolts here protect you real well. Maybe not such a great beginner route, since the start can be freaky.

I saw two guys trying this route in hiking boots and a 2-foot runner on that #7 stopper. You can imagine how far they got. Plus, that n... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Pine Tree Route (5.5)
By: Dmitriy Zinchenko When: Aug 31, 2002

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Comments: This is a good warm-up/beginner route since the angle is less than vertical and all the jams/jugs are bomber. I led it with 1 set up to 2.5" and was ok. Unless you follow a straight line here, bring long slings and place judiciously to avoid rope drag hell. Do it in the winter w/a pack for an alpine feel.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Huston Crack (5.8+)
By: Dmitriy Zinchenko When: Aug 12, 2002

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Comments: This route makes for a great introduction to off-width cracks. It's a bit less than vertical and several hold outside and inside the crack make it a very worthwile TR.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Navajo Peak
By: Dmitriy Zinchenko When: Jun 24, 2002

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Comments: Last Monday (17th June) I hiked to the glacier and saw two skiers/snowboarders headed up the Navajo Snowfield. 30 minutes later me and my friends saw a huge avalanche stress fracture right along their path and a second one on the opposite side of the field. The fracture lines stretched all the way to the bottom. Be advised.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Fourth Buttress : South Face Roof (5.7 C2)
By: Dmitriy Zinchenko When: May 21, 2002

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Comments: This route isn't all that great. There are three fixed pins in the roof which you can use, the blade pin is giant! When you start cleaning, beware of the loose rock(/crap) covering the surface of the roof above - you'll get showered with debris. Above the sloping ledge, over the roof, the rock is 5.4-5.5. I used cams of 0.5 (blue) TCU to 1" Alien. Maybe a few nuts and/or pink tricams for a belay at the ledge (rope drag sucks, otherwise).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Practice Rock : Dark Magic (C3)
By: Dmitriy Zinchenko When: May 7, 2002

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Comments: I just recently solo-lead this climb again and the pink tricam comment is total bull. You might need two #5's but one will definitely be half-way out(bring along the Smirnoff). A blue TCU can help at the crux along with possibly a #3 stopper equalized with something else. I flailed around for a hook placement. Anyway, only double on the #4s needed, and the crux is just totally fun. Just be sure to duct-tape the sling around the horn real well. Otherwise, you're in for a long... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Practice Rock : Dark Magic (C3)
By: Dmitriy Zinchenko When: May 1, 2002

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Comments: I sincerely apologize for posting this as a first ascent. At the time, there were three reasons suggesting that this real was an unclimbed route. 1: I asked employees at Neptune's and Mountain Sports as well as Roger Briggs about this route. All told me that they didn't know of this aid line. 2: I looked on the internet and in the Neptune's New Routes Book, there was absolutely no mention of it there either. 3: When I climbed it, the cracks were absolutely chalk-less and filled with dirt/grit,... more >>


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Standard Route 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Third Buttress

Cozyhang 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

CO : Boulder Canyon : The Dome

West Crack (aka Star Wars) 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Lower Peanuts

East Face North Side/Seal Rock 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

CO : Flatirons : ... : Seal Rock

Dark Magic C3

CO : Boulder Canyon : Practice Rock

Malign 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

CO : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag

Holy Ascension 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ E7 6c C1-2

CO : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress

To The Sun 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

CO : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Malign

5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

CO : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag

Cozyhang

5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

CO : Boulder Canyon : The Dome

East Face North Side/Seal Rock

5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a

CO : Flatirons : ... : Seal Rock

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