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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Caballo Lake/ T or C : Bat Cave Area
By: djkyote When: Jan 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: One weekend in February, 2011, we were exploring the canyon to the south east of where you park and encountered two miners bringing a load of dynamite to their claim. We were not aware that we were on their claim and were told to leave. They said that whole canyon is full of active claims and shouldn't be trespassed on. It did not take a lot of convincing because they each had assault rifles with scopes and a sidearm. We were told the bat cave is currently an inactive claim so it is fine to be o... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : Space Oddity (a.k.a. Signif... (5.12a)
By: djkyote When: Jan 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA of this and the 13a was most likely Frank Dusl or one of the guys that worked at his climbing shop in Laramie, circa 1991-93.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Beastmaster (5.12c)
By: djkyote When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks to whoever replaced the sketchy bolts at the anchor and replaced the carabiners.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon
By: djkyote When: Sep 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: George,
I appreciate the idea of lowering the visual impact, but if this is a concern why are there 3, 3' long, shiney silver chains at the top of Motejump? Why are there draws hanging in the roof extensions?
From my time in meetings with the FS and NMcrag, the Crystal Cave closure was decided before 'discussions' started. The tribe didn't like the permadraws, but taking them down bought us nothing in the way of bargaining. The lesson: if the tribe wants an area shut the FS will do it wit... more >>
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Beastmaster (5.12c)
By: djkyote When: Aug 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: +1 for the double draw clipped before going into the crux. I'm not sure moving the bolt lower would be a good idea: you may fall close to the adjacent boulder when working the crux.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crystal Cave : Rosebudd (5.13c)
By: djkyote When: May 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: while tightening the 4th and 5th nuts on Dope that like to loosen themselves, we discovered that the entire bolts are loose and can be moved up and down.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crystal Cave : Faith (5.13c)
By: djkyote When: May 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: while tightening the 4th and 5th nuts on Dope that like to loosen themselves, we discovered that the entire bolts are loose and can be moved up and down.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crystal Cave : Dope (5.13b)
By: djkyote When: May 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: while tightening the 4th and 5th nuts on Dope that like to loosen themselves, we discovered that the entire bolts are loose and can be moved up and down.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crystal Cave
By: djkyote When: May 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: while tightening the 4th and 5th nuts on Dope that like to loosen themselves, we discovered that the entire bolts are loose and can be moved up and down.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon
By: djkyote When: Apr 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: anyone know when and if the dungeon will open this year?
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince
By: djkyote When: Mar 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: thanks, William, and the history of the foil went like this:
As I said earlier, I pulled the year-old draws off of Shipwrecked and put them on the Babies wall. I had put the word out on MP and Rc.com if someone wanted them back. I had heard rumors about them belonging to someone in Texas. So, I put the foil, actually high temp duct tape, on them in case the person wanted them back in their original shape. It was also an experiment to see if the webbing would do as well as chain in an arid en... more >>
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Location: NM : Socorro Area : Major Wall Area : Major Wall : The Demon (5.12d)
By: djkyote When: Mar 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I left two oval biners on the chains a year ago and now they are gone. I know new mexicans think that carabiners at chains are 'booty', but you are really just stealing from yourself. I would have thought that a classic 13 would see more respect from the community. hope you find a good use for them: they are 20 years old and ovals. good job.
and i agree, the start is definitely more difficult since said key foothold broke.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince
By: djkyote When: Mar 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 3 years ago, I moved quickdraws that had been hanging on Shipwrecked for a year onto this wall. Later that year, the webbing was replaced with chain. Sometime within the last year, someone removed all but the permadraws on Babies, and these draws now have sleeves over the carabiner to keep them from flipping and become harder to take.
I am curious as to why someone would remove chains used to keep cleaning safe, what someone plans to do with said property that has been in the elements for 3 ye... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Lower Blair III : Pretty Girls with Long Kniv... (5.12b)
By: djkyote When: Aug 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Paul Piana.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas) : Screaming Jihad : Screaming Jihad (V12)
By: djkyote When: Aug 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: www.myuctv.com/video?id=971
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Location: NM : Socorro Area : Spook Canyon : Spook Main Wall : Rubberband Fingers Stand/Me... (V8)
By: djkyote When: Jul 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments:
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crystal Cave : Photo
By: djkyote When: Jul 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: what is listed as 'super dope' is Rosebudd (13.d):
some of the problem is seen here:
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Location: NM : Socorro Area : Box Canyon : North Wall : Red Licorice (5.11b)
By: djkyote When: May 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is even lamer is colliding with our belayer because you clipped a bolt 6' off the ground or decked because you missed the clip at the v2 crux. If you don't want to 'toprope', bring a pad.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (02) The Slab Wall : Turbo Trad (5.13a)
By: djkyote When: May 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: as of today this well-established route has been chopped and the holes filled with glue. who chopped it? has it been sent on gear?
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Location: NM : Socorro Area : Box Canyon : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ...
By: djkyote When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some moron(s) have been taking the lowering carabiners from chains during the 2009 summer - STOP IT! Many of these were set on mid-anchors to make optional moderates from the longer 12s for beginners and classes. It isn't 'booty,' - you are endangering others and stealing from the climbing community.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (04) Showdown Wall : SideKick (5.11a PG13)
By: djkyote When: Oct 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: it is interesting that this one is 'mixed' but gunslinger is not - the first half of gunslinger could be done on gear. 'mixed' ethics only apply to certain grades i suppose.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Rode Hard Wall : Wind and Rattlesnakes (5.12a)
By: djkyote When: Sep 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: first 12. one of a kind.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Plumb Line Crag : Skybox (5.10c) : Photo
By: djkyote When: Jun 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're lucky he is grumpy these days - he used to be angry with violent tendencies. Old school. :)
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas)
By: djkyote When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: video of Screaming Jihad here: www.myuctv.com/video?id=971
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Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : New Canyon
By: djkyote When: Mar 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: most of the hangers were returned by the party in question while free-soloing - not using a rope makes a person a not a true climber? this situation happened many years ago.
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