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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Green Phantom Rock : Yellow Jacket (5.10+)
By: DJ Reyes When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I almost feel like I did a different route than the others here. I found the climbing to be mid-ten for sure. Perhaps this is a reflection of being on the couch all winter, or the fact that I rarely do any slab routes. Get on it and let us know what YOU think.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Green Phantom Rock : Undercling Thing (5.9+)
By: DJ Reyes When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely fun though I'd have loved to have the undercling portion go on for a couple dozen more feet! This route is hard to rate for me. Seemed much easier to me than Fine Line, but my partner disagreed. I'd say just get on it and judge for yourself.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Green Phantom Rock : Fine Line (5.9+)
By: DJ Reyes When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rating seemed fair at least to me as a leader. Don't forget that in order to protect this route you'll need to plug up some potential holds. No doubt it'll seem much easier on TR.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress : Knaug and Hyde (5.3)
By: DJ Reyes When: Dec 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I soled this route and found the crux to be the downclimb off of the formation.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress : Sheet Bends (5.9)
By: DJ Reyes When: Dec 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice little lead with protection a little difficult to arrange down low, but it's all there for the patient leader. I exited through the wide crack above which seemed an exciting way to finish the route.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Bullwinkle Tower : West Chimney (5.6)
By: DJ Reyes When: Nov 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route this morning and thought the route was harder than 5.6. The awkward move into the chimney section felt like 5.7+ to me, but then again I haven't climbed sandstone much lately. I would advise a large camalot say..... 4.5 or so to protect that move.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Off Balanced Rock : Northeast Chimney (5.7 R)
By: DJ Reyes When: Nov 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route this morning (Thanksgiving) with my brother. Waaaay exciting climbing inside the chimney. I didn't do any offwidth, but instead walked along the floor of the chimney till I was about halfway through at where the crack can be seen on the west side. Really fun and protected climbing up the chimney leads to the bolts at the summit. I didn't use any really wide gear on the route. I also thought that the first pitch was harder than 5.6, but then I haven't climbed a lot of sandstone... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8) : Photo
By: DJ Reyes When: Nov 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Shot!!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Beak Boulder : Totally Tubular (5.8)
By: DJ Reyes When: Nov 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of a kind route in a nice location. Well worth doing.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : School Rock : Mary's Crack (5.8)
By: DJ Reyes When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For me it's a solo except for the 15 feet of awkward grovelling to get through the roof. I would agree that for me it seemed solid 5.9. Perhaps with some beta I missed it could be easier, but I had trouble reaching the key jam up high and just squirmed up a fraction of an inch at a time till I could reach it. then of course it's over. I understand why this climb is not mobbed. My partner couldn't do it on toprope even with a very healthy assist.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Peanut Gallery, The : Middle Ages (5.8)
By: DJ Reyes When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led the first pitch yesterday and thought is was quite a nice route. Definitely varied in technique with some thin crack, wider crack, stem, layback, and even a mantle. Personally I thought the first section protected just fine with small nuts. A nice full value pitch.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arch Rock : Entrance Exam (5.9)
By: DJ Reyes When: Aug 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this in 06. Very memorable route. I pushed an old #5 Camalot almost the entire length of pitch 2 and it protected like a dream. I thought getting past the block of pitch 3 was the crux.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Primer (5.9)
By: DJ Reyes When: Aug 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led this today mostly because it was in the shade. Nice route! I had no idea what the name or rating was and I can agree with the 5.9 rating. It is strenuous, but fairly short.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Anxiety Attack (5.10a PG13)
By: DJ Reyes When: Jul 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led this last Sunday and I thought it was stiff for the grade, but then I may not have "unlocked" the correct sequences, which is really the key on this one. Very sequential to be sure! I want too far left at the top bolt and had to make a super delicate traverse back to the right which for me was the crux, but then I messed up the sequence and made it unnecessarily harder. Pretty much hard all the way to the top as far as I'm concerned.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Insidious Crack (5.6)
By: DJ Reyes When: Jul 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Basic crack climbing in a nice local. not super memorable.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Jellyroll Arch (5.8)
By: DJ Reyes When: Jul 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A really fun route which to me seemed pretty soft for a 5.8. A must do if you're in the area.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Mitigate (5.7)
By: DJ Reyes When: Jul 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led this last Sunday. I thought it was a good route with some interesting moves for a 5.7. I guess I would probably say it seemed a bit stiff for the grade.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Baskerville Rock : Sound Asleep (5.10b)
By: DJ Reyes When: Mar 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led this in 06 and found it to be worth while. After the initial difficulties there is a fun lieback and some interesting exit moves.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Campsites Road : Group Campsite 1 : ... : Box Canyon Crack (5.6)
By: DJ Reyes When: Feb 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is low down. I'd give it a star.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Campsites Road : Group Campsite 1 : ... : Stud Muffin (5.10b)
By: DJ Reyes When: Feb 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a one move wonder, but what a move! Craaaaank past the first bolt and cruise to the top.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Don Genaro Crack (5.10a)
By: DJ Reyes When: Feb 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great diagonal crack with good jams and lieback moves. I used face features at the crux. Well worth your time.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Morbid Mound : Morituri Te Salutamus (5.9)
By: DJ Reyes When: Feb 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easy moves above and below the crux roof. The roof itself is kind of a one move wonder. I led it as a lieback and my partner stemmed it.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Morbid Mound : A Last Cigarette Senor? (5.9+)
By: DJ Reyes When: Feb 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led this yesterday. Quite a grunt fest getting through the second bulge. Strenuous and tricky. Definitely full value.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Morbid Mound : Disappearing Belayer (5.7)
By: DJ Reyes When: Feb 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that this seems stout for 5.7. A fun climb though with neat moves.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : Genuine Cowhide (5.10a)
By: DJ Reyes When: Feb 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Steep moves past the bolt lead to a nice diagonal finger crack. I'd give it 3 stars.
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