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Member Since: Apr 21, 2007
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 685
Total Points: 982
Last Year: 404
Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 395 | Routes 34 | Areas 1 | Photos 84 | Page Improvements | Comments 207 | Posts 3 | Stars 47 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: IL : Mississippi Palisades : Wrap-Around Route (5.5 PG13)
By: DJ Reyes When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: One of my favorite routes back in the early 80's when I was climbing here quite a bit. I loved the two pitch alpine nature of the route.


Location: IL : Mississippi Palisades : Bowline (5.9)
By: DJ Reyes When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: I led this back in the 80's and when I got to the top the crack was filled with dirt and roots making for a very exciting exit. Similar thing happened to my brother on the crack surprise. We figured out what the surprise was a little too late.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Playhouse Rock : Curtain Call (5.6)
By: DJ Reyes When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: I led this the other day as a "warm-up" and thought the moves on the first half were quite interesting considering the lack of solid protection. It seemed that the crux move was about 15 feet above my first piece. The top half is much more casual and very fun.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Peanut Gallery, The : A Face in the Crowd (5.9)
By: DJ Reyes When: Mar 17, 2015

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Comments: Sergey, I believe you're thinking of the main Peanut Gallery area, technically, the southeast face. This route is located somewhat to the northeast of that area, but it is part of the same formation. Kind of an obscure wall, though clearly visible from the Roadcut parking area. Unlike the area you're thinking of I don't think the northeast face gets a lot of traffic.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Mad Wife (5.8+)
By: DJ Reyes When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: I climbed this back in 03'. It was fun, but short. I Looked at it recently and it looks like the top is now filled in with brush. If you're planning on leading it don't forget your pruners in addition to your wide gear.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Crawford's Face (5.10)
By: DJ Reyes When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: The base of this route is now fairly well grown in with brush.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Headjammer (5.8)
By: DJ Reyes When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: I'm not sure Blitzo has the description right...Sorry Blitzo RIP....either that or some bolts have been added. Looking at the Carville guide leads me to believe that the route follows the three bolts to the dish above at which point you have three choices... straight up with no pro..... to the right with no pro... or to the left where you can clip another bolt... maybe that bolt is new as well.... and then up the shallow left leaning crack with some difficult to arrange protection.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Pie in the Sky (5.7 R)
By: DJ Reyes When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: As a toprope this route is totally contrived. The location of the anchors above doesn't allow for a smooth belay without the rope receiving too much friction from the rock. A couple bolts would make this a fantastic lead, and make the route accessible to many more climbers, but I guess that will never happen. Too bad.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Earn Your Wings (5.9)
By: DJ Reyes When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: This route is the definition of contrived. The anchors above are not even in a good spot to allow proper toproping without the rope receiving a lot of friction on the rock. Friction that totally interferes with the belay.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Shelob's Lair (5.9)
By: DJ Reyes When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: Finally did this the other day and this time I stuck to the outside edge and even then encountered one or two constrictions that I had trouble thructching past. I even put on my mountaineering harness that had no gear loops or other protrusions. It's a good route if you're looking to burn off a thousand calories or so.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Fluted Crust (5.5)
By: DJ Reyes When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: I led this the other day and found it quite enjoyable. The knob hopping on the upper face will put a smile on even the most jaded of faces.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Archer (5.8)
By: DJ Reyes When: Mar 7, 2015

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Comments: A memorable grunt fest! I traversed right at the roof.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Wind (5.10b)
By: DJ Reyes When: Feb 21, 2015

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Comments: 5.10b??? So has anyone done this lately? I'm thinking more like 5.11, but what do I know. Looking for some confirmation or controversy. Let me know what you think.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Shelob's Lair (5.9)
By: DJ Reyes When: Feb 21, 2015

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Comments: I don't know how grovelly it was in 95' but it can't have gotten any better. As a matter of fact I don't know if it's had another ascent since then. I had to come down half way up due to the gear loops on my harness catching on chossy flakes and preventing upward progress. Some flakes were attached with no visible means of support. I'll try it again with an alpine harness without gear loops. It's a very tight squeeze for those who seek out such features.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : No Doubt Stout (5.8)
By: DJ Reyes When: Feb 21, 2015

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Comments: I'm sure it's been done before but I couldn't find any record of it. Probably no taller than Zig Zag finish, and certainly easier, but it's just off the trail and well... it's a good warm up or cool down in a super convenient location just feet from Lunch Rock. Interesting moves especially at the start. Get on it.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Clean Corner (5.8)
By: DJ Reyes When: Feb 21, 2015

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Comments: When I led this it wasn't particularly clean as it was filled with dirt and debris. That aside, this is a nice crack that protects like a dream. Mostly fingers and thin hands. It should get more traffic. Perhaps if it was longer and the top was a bit more convenient.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : The Saw (5.5)
By: DJ Reyes When: Feb 21, 2015

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Comments: Nice route with a lots of interesting moves including a little bushwacking. To me some of the moves below the roof seemed harder than 5.5. Turning the left side of the roof is pretty fun and totally solid.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Zig Zag Finish (5.10a)
By: DJ Reyes When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: I led this yesterday and thought it had a high fun/vertical foot factor though sadly it is too short. But, heck if you're in the area anyway after having topped out on another route I'd recommend jumping on it. Why not?


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Knob Hill (5.7)
By: DJ Reyes When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: Okay, I led this yesterday and really enjoyed it. I'm not sure I went the correct way, as the route I took seemed a bit stiff for 5.7. Looking at Ed's picture of the climber on top of the blocks, well I climbed the chimney and then took the crack shown to the right of the climber to the top of the blocks. Also, getting established on the knob-filled face above seemed a bit stiff for 5.7. Once on the face however the climbing was straight forward and fun with all the knobs and chicken heads. ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Crepes Corner (5.7)
By: DJ Reyes When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: Nice route! Led this yesterday on an incredibly nice day for mid-Feb. A somewhat awkward approach crack leads to the amazing corner. Protects like a dream with placements everywhere and anywhere. Go do it and have fun.


Location: NV : Reno and Carson City : East Shore Lake Tahoe : Ballbuster Rock : East Face : Cruz (5.9)
By: DJ Reyes When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: I rope soloed this Sunday and was like... dude what's all the fuss about? That is until I got to where the crack thins out and then I was left slapping the rounded arete to the right and trying to tweak my left hand into the crack and thrutch my way to better holds at the horizontal. But the fun isn't over yet. Whew! This one is pretty weird. 5.9? I say no way, but what do I know. Rope soloing to me always seems harder.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : Leaden the Rock (5.9)
By: DJ Reyes When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: Did this route last week and enjoyed it. A couple puzzling moves at the second bolt lead to a somewhat powerful move past the last bolt. The climbing past the 3rd bolt may be a little intimidating for the noobie leader so a couple of cams might ease the fright factor.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : I Love my Marine, Direct (5.10c)
By: DJ Reyes When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: I took a different take on this and made a high initial step and stuck. It's probably 10+ alright, and a fun problem to mess around on especially if the day is cold since this is a nice, sunny area which is usually protected from the wind.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : Fool's Ruby (5.6 R)
By: DJ Reyes When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: The top face is crap for protection so you might as well just solo it. Most will totally discount this route, but I am one of those black hearted rogues who like this kind of craziness!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : Feast (5.11b R)
By: DJ Reyes When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: Came in from the left past the first bolt which might have made it a grade easier, but the top section is no gimme. Probably solid 11. Secret is like the submitter suggested.... just palm the sucker like a big basketball and you'll probably hang on.... that is...if you have the energy!


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