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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Dry Martini (5.7)
By: divnamite When: May 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A nice climb. I didn't like the first pitch; there is a huge loose block under the roof and the protection isn't as good as you think. As for P2, as soon as you climb the bulge (crux with bolt), start moving right and you should see the fixed pieces (2 old pins + couple of other pieces). P3 is fun climbing.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Something Interesting (5.7+)
By: divnamite When: Nov 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux 1 has not so obvious move, but is not reachy. For the pitch off the GT, the crux is right at the start, protected by a piton. I don't think that's where the splat is, is it?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Funny Face (5.5)
By: divnamite When: Oct 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Link both pitches together.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Far from the Madding Crowd (5.8)
By: divnamite When: Oct 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climbing itself is fairly easy on the 5.8 side. I don't feel it's PG13, particularly entering the crux which is the corner and face. C3 helps, but not that much.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Disneyland (5.6)
By: divnamite When: Sep 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do it in one pitch, just make sure you extend your slings at the start. I've never seen so many pins on one climb at the Gunks. I think I used a total of 5 pieces of gears for the entire climb.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Triangle (5.9)
By: divnamite When: Aug 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the right side variation. Not sure if this is a 5.9, it's considerable easier than other 5.8s I've been on. Just make sure you move right instead of move left under the overhang. Once you get above the overhang onto the face, start traverse to the right towards Never Never Land's bolt anchor.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Arch Direct (5.9)
By: divnamite When: Aug 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not just a lot of loose rock, but dirt, sands, saps and all the other junks. If more people climb this route, it would be a lot cleaner. There is a lose dinner plate size flake right below the roof so be extra careful. The piton looks rusty, clip at your own risk. The climb itself is decent, worth doing if you just want to get a last climb in while you are in the area.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.5) : Photo
By: divnamite When: Jul 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I was on top of No Man's Land.
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Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : Moore's Bridge : Moore's Bridge - Gully (WI2... (WI2-3)
By: divnamite When: Jan 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the second tier, the right is WI2-3, the left is a lot harder when ice is in (WI3+).
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Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Stony Clove : Stony Clove - West Side : Ron's Gully (WI2+)
By: divnamite When: Jan 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolts at belay right below the roof.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Wonderland (5.8)
By: divnamite When: Nov 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun fun route. Bolt protects the interesting crux, everything else is just fun and enjoyable.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Absurdland (5.8)
By: divnamite When: Nov 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think it's a sandbagged route. It's definitely 5.8 range with some of sustained 5.7 climbing, then ease off when getting to the top. A gold camalot works fine, you can also plug many other pieces in, but the gold is the most obvious one.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Alley Oop (5.7)
By: divnamite When: Nov 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good and fun climb, the crux is really the start, so don't blow it. It's not as bad as it looks. The roof is fun and well protected. Go ahead and do it.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Cascading Crystal Kaleidosc... (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: divnamite When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The correct route is to go up right side of the piece, and then traverse back left. It's not the direct neither. It's further left of the corner.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Blueberry Ledges (5.5 PG13)
By: divnamite When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1 is ok, nothing to write home about. Where is the belay on pitch 1? Right above the roof?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Strictly From Nowhere (5.7)
By: divnamite When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An excellent climb! Crux is the roof, bring some small cams. Protect your follower after the crux, otherwise, it's a swing into air.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Hawk (5.5)
By: divnamite When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1 is not the same as before the rock fall. A lot of loose pebble and rocks on each of the ledges. Pros and moves are slightly more difficult. Not for a new 5.4 leader.
Pitch 2, the route finding is easy if you remember to stay below the pins. Just keep traverse right and follow the natural line.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Wrist (5.6)
By: divnamite When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think P1 is actually 5.5. P2 is the money pitch. I feel like P1 is just another typical corner climb, not very special. Arch P1 to Wrist P2 is much better climb.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Finger Locks or Cedar Box (5.5)
By: divnamite When: Mar 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is short, prolly not worth it compare to Rhododendron. Link up with P2 and P3 of Northern Pillar is more fun.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Bloody Bush (5.7)
By: divnamite When: Feb 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent climb. P1 is steeper than expected, but still 5.5. And protections are there when you need them. P2 is the money pitch, a very fun traverse. Leader should protect the second, if second falls on traverse, you might have to lower the second to ledge and reclimb.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Dennis (5.5)
By: divnamite When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is the overhang start sequence, the low angle slab 15 ft up is fun as well. I don't know if P2 is worth doing, if you link both together, then maybe.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Credibility Gap (5.6)
By: divnamite When: Oct 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 is the worth doing, don't remember P2 much other than some dirty rocks. My follower backed off twice on the P1's airy exit. Definitely interesting, bring a big cam. I don't remember which one I used, maybe BD #4?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: divnamite When: Sep 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb, I linked P1 and P2 together.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Beginner's Delight (5.4)
By: divnamite When: Apr 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I still can't find the original route (5.3) which is supposed to go diagonally across the face. I was in a hurry so I wasn't paying close attention, but it seems there are no protection on the face. I went up the 5.4 route which is go up the corner and then traverse left. If someone has a nice big photo of original route, please let me know.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Breaker & Very Blocky Walls : Circuit Breaker (5.10)
By: divnamite When: Oct 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crimp all the way, a lot of fun actually.
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