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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Hawk (5.5)
By: divnamite When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1 is not the same as before the rock fall. A lot of loose pebble and rocks on each of the ledges. Pros and moves are slightly more difficult. Not for a new 5.4 leader.
Pitch 2, the route finding is easy if you remember to stay below the pins. Just keep traverse right and follow the natural line.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Wrist (5.6)
By: divnamite When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think P1 is actually 5.5. P2 is the money pitch. I feel like P1 is just another typical corner climb, not very special. Arch P1 to Wrist P2 is much better climb.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Finger Locks or Cedar Box (5.5)
By: divnamite When: Mar 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is short, prolly not worth it compare to Rhododendron. Link up with P2 and P3 of Northern Pillar is more fun.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Bloody Bush (5.7)
By: divnamite When: Feb 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent climb. P1 is steeper than expected, but still 5.5. And protections are there when you need them. P2 is the money pitch, a very fun traverse. Leader should protect the second, if second falls on traverse, you might have to lower the second to ledge and reclimb.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Dennis (5.5)
By: divnamite When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is the overhang start sequence, the low angle slab 15 ft up is fun as well. I don't know if P2 is worth doing, if you link both together, then maybe.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Credibility Gap (5.6)
By: divnamite When: Oct 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 is the worth doing, don't remember P2 much other than some dirty rocks. My follower backed off twice on the P1's airy exit. Definitely interesting, bring a big cam. I don't remember which one I used, maybe BD #4?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: divnamite When: Sep 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb, I linked P1 and P2 together.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Beginner's Delight (5.4)
By: divnamite When: Apr 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I still can't find the original route (5.3) which is supposed to go diagonally across the face. I was in a hurry so I wasn't paying close attention, but it seems there are no protection on the face. I went up the 5.4 route which is go up the corner and then traverse left. If someone has a nice big photo of original route, please let me know.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Breaker & Very Blocky Walls : Circuit Breaker (5.10)
By: divnamite When: Oct 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crimp all the way, a lot of fun actually.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Scrotum Pole/Drive in Area : Easy Rider (5.6 R)
By: divnamite When: Sep 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good hard climb for beginners. If using bolts up top, be aware that when climbing this face, a fall will swing you quite a bit.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Scrotum Pole/Drive in Area : Arete I (5.9 R)
By: divnamite When: Sep 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's actually 1 1/2 star.
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