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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Dry Martini (5.7)
By: divnamite When: May 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A nice climb. I didn't like the first pitch; there is a huge loose block under the roof and the protection isn't as good as you think. As for P2, as soon as you climb the bulge (crux with bolt), start moving right and you should see the fixed pieces (2 old pins + couple of other pieces). P3 is fun climbing.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Something Interesting (5.7+)
By: divnamite When: Nov 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux 1 has not so obvious move, but is not reachy. For the pitch off the GT, the crux is right at the start, protected by a piton. I don't think that's where the splat is, is it?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Funny Face (5.5)
By: divnamite When: Oct 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Link both pitches together.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Far from the Madding Crowd (5.8)
By: divnamite When: Oct 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climbing itself is fairly easy on the 5.8 side. I don't feel it's PG13, particularly entering the crux which is the corner and face. C3 helps, but not that much.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Disneyland (5.6)
By: divnamite When: Sep 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do it in one pitch, just make sure you extend your slings at the start. I've never seen so many pins on one climb at the Gunks. I think I used a total of 5 pieces of gears for the entire climb.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Triangle (5.9)
By: divnamite When: Aug 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the right side variation. Not sure if this is a 5.9, it's considerable easier than other 5.8s I've been on. Just make sure you move right instead of move left under the overhang. Once you get above the overhang onto the face, start traverse to the right towards Never Never Land's bolt anchor.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Arch Direct (5.9)
By: divnamite When: Aug 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not just a lot of loose rock, but dirt, sands, saps and all the other junks. If more people climb this route, it would be a lot cleaner. There is a lose dinner plate size flake right below the roof so be extra careful. The piton looks rusty, clip at your own risk. The climb itself is decent, worth doing if you just want to get a last climb in while you are in the area.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.5) : Photo
By: divnamite When: Jul 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I was on top of No Man's Land.
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Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : Moore's Bridge : Moore's Bridge - Gully (WI2... (WI2-3)
By: divnamite When: Jan 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the second tier, the right is WI2-3, the left is a lot harder when ice is in (WI3+).
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Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Stony Clove : Stony Clove - West Side : Ron's Gully (WI2+)
By: divnamite When: Jan 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolts at belay right below the roof.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Wonderland (5.8)
By: divnamite When: Nov 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun fun route. Bolt protects the interesting crux, everything else is just fun and enjoyable.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Absurdland (5.8)
By: divnamite When: Nov 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think it's a sandbagged route. It's definitely 5.8 range with some of sustained 5.7 climbing, then ease off when getting to the top. A gold camalot works fine, you can also plug many other pieces in, but the gold is the most obvious one.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Alley Oop (5.7)
By: divnamite When: Nov 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good and fun climb, the crux is really the start, so don't blow it. It's not as bad as it looks. The roof is fun and well protected. Go ahead and do it.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Cascading Crystal Kaleidosc... (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: divnamite When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The correct route is to go up right side of the piece, and then traverse back left. It's not the direct neither. It's further left of the corner.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Blueberry Ledges (5.5 PG13)
By: divnamite When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1 is ok, nothing to write home about. Where is the belay on pitch 1? Right above the roof?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Strictly From Nowhere (5.7)
By: divnamite When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An excellent climb! Crux is the roof, bring some small cams. Protect your follower after the crux, otherwise, it's a swing into air.
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