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PBR Time at the Creek


Member Since: Mar 1, 2006
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 73
Total Points: 4,692
Last Year: 173
Last 30 Days: 6
61 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has DisturbingThePeace been climbing?










DisturbingThePeace

 
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Contributions


All 2043 | Routes 342 | Areas 37 | Photos 90 | Page Improvements | Comments 267 | Posts 71 | Stars 1079 | Ratings 157
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Wheel of Karma : Flying Spaghetti Monster (5.12a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: Pretty fun route, if you have already done the classics at UEF. It is too bad that the climbing weaves around so much. Feels pretty stout for the 12a grade, but the slopers may make this one more condition dependent than most.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Renaissance Sector : Ring Around The Rosie (5.13b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Warning: There is a large loose block on this just above the mid-anchors. It doesn't appear to be connected to the wall anymore only jammed in place. I would be wary of trusting it until I took a crowbar to it. The entrance into the crux still goes without using it. Above the crux there are several sketchy looking blocks as well, that would provide a nice rest, but look like they could rip off. The crux is certainly pretty cool and quite hard, but the rest of line needs some cleaning.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Renaissance Sector : Asian Whore (5.8)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Be careful on the huge hollow flakes between the last bolt and the anchors. Seems like the last bolt could be moved a little higher as well being that clipping the anchors might be the crux. Would be a pretty scary lead for someone at their limit.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Live Sector : Galaga (5.12-)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Fun route, remember to hang a hard right at the third bolt, and climb the arete before moving left to the overhanging section.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Love Shack Area : Take That Space Coyote (5.12b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: This one should clean up to be a sought after classic! Only thing that keeps it from being 4 stars is the lack of consistency and a few seeping holds at the bottom (at least with my non-optimized beta).

Edit: Glad to hear that the holds at the start dry out. That handlebar hold towards the top is pretty cool, but it was too thin for me to trust!


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Death Drives a Stick (5.13)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: Thanks to whomever replaced all the draws that you clip with cable permadraws. It is nice to not have any questions about draw quality when you're jumping off the finish. It helps to take the time to work out the finishing mantle, it's not too bad once you know where the holds are.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : Reprimanda (5.11b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Second pitch is beautiful, too bad you have to climb the first pitch to get to it. With a few backcleaned bolts at the start and a few long slings, rope drag wasn't bad at all.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : The Amphitheater : Supramanya (5.11d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: Been a while since this one's been climbed. The upper headwall is really enjoyable, too bad it's over so soon. Well worth climbing for the steep upper headwall, complete with a Tufa Feature.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: I've always thought the W section was low 5th class, or at least exposed enough to warrant 5th class, much harder / more exposed than Cabezon IMO.

What is everyone's best car to car time for parking at the Piedra Lisa Trailhead? I've done it in 3 hrs 9 min coming down Chimney Canyon to the La Luz, and I am not a good runner. I'll bet someone with a running background could do it in around 2 hrs. Another way to do it faster might be coming down the side of the shield to the Fletcher trail as B... more >>


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : West (Center) Face : The Hunting of the Snark (5.12c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: A great new addition to the tower, my favorite of the new routes. I like it better than Mad Hatter as it has more independent climbing, with some fun hard moves. Felt like it had harder moves than Mad Hatter but better rests. Even without the Pit Stop I was able to get it all back before the steep section, and there are a few good rests higher on the route. Probably a little harder than Mad Hatter so given the standard 12d grade of Hatter this one is 12d as well and just a touch higher in th... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Renaissance Sector : Renaissance Man (5.12-)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: Sounds like this is the same route as "Whole Lot of Rosie"?? I guess this is probably the correct name since Mike Tupper added it.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : North Wall : Grease Mechanic (5.12d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 10, 2014

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Comments: The listed grade of 12- felt like a huge sandbag, felt much much harder than the Grijalva route. My estimate is the grade is somewhere between 12c and 13a, basically a V6 or V7 boulder problem. Also I stick-clipped the 3rd bolt, which is lame, but it didn't seem safe for me otherwise. It would be a big fall low on the route, and while you wouldn't deck you would probably hit your belayer. I fell 4 times going for the hold next to the third bolt.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : North Wall : Or Dare (5.10)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 10, 2014

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Comments: With a bit of back-cleaning and running out the first pitch I was able to combine this with the first pitch of "The Truth" to lead this in one pitch. I back-cleaned the first two bolts on "The Truth" skipped the mid-anchors and used long slings on a few bolts and the rope drag wasn't bad at all. Able to get down with one rappel with a 70m rope.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (03) The Franks : Dark Dreams (5.12b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: This route hasn't held up all that well since I last climbed it. The glue reinforced crimp between the first and second bolt is loose, while not required does make a nice intermediate. The jug at the third bolt is loose, the tree stump holding it in place is disintegrating, so the hold won't be there much longer. Beware it is an obvious hold and a significant amount of rock and dirt may come out with it. In addition it doesn't look to have been climbed for a while as the pockets at the start... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : 12-pack Link (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: Finished this on "To Beer or not to Beer" in an attempt to make this 5.13-, while this sounds contrived since you essentially leave TBONTB to do the crux of BYOB, then work back to the anchors of TBONTB it makes for a good power endurance line with only one decent shake on the route. Don't think it quite makes it to 5.13 though.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ...
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: Link to forum thread discussing post fire Cochiti Mesa Conditions
mountainproject.com/v/cochiti-...


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Shady Side Left : Volver de La Belle Epoque (5.14b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: No, the route between Julie and Jerkoff is another project, that has also been extended to the top of the cliff band. I don't think Cody has sent that one yet.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : The B.F.G. (5.13)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: This would be 4 stars and ultra classic like Goliath if it was the original line instead of a variation. As it cleans up it will be an easy three stars. Adds another 2 bolts of hard climbing, then you get some nice rests so the very top is still trivial. I'm guessing 13b since I've always considered Goliath to be on the upper side of 13a.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Mid-Town : Guchi (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: Great route on good quality rock, may require a good brushing, so if you want to OS have someone else brush it down first. I found the clip at the 3rd bolt to be quite hard, w/o any options to get around it. Also the final crux felt as hard and insecure as any of the other hard moves.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Shady Side Left : Volver de La Belle Epoque (5.14b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: Edit: This is the project between Pipsqueak and Doug. Not the extension to Jerkoff, Cody bolted that extension but hasn't sent yet.

Just to clarify, Cody sent this one around the time that he posted this to Mountain Project.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Shady Side Left : Rebecca (5.13-)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: Great climb, with almost none of the sloping crimps that characterize the tunnel. The crux of this one will test your crimping strength on small flat crimps. I used a long sling on the 4th bolt so I could clip from the rest below. It is really hard to clip from the holds at the bolt. Also the finish from the resting jug is more like 11c/d with a few occasional rests.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Shady Side Left : Doug (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: Very Cool and Stiff crux, probably V6 or low end V7. The crux hold is pretty neat, with enough imagination you can almost see it being tufa formation.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: There are now several projects between Mastadont and Survival of the Fittest. I've heard that there is alot of interest in these lines so I wanted to open 1 of them up. If this isn't clear, just send me an email.

From Right to Left
Mastadont

Open Project, has one bolt and Anchor. All the good holds fell off the wall, and the sidepull jug will go with some cleaning. The start seemed impossible so I moved further left. Have at it, maybe some super strong climber can figure something out, or... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Erectus (5.12c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: Fun route, that should see more traffic. Not as classic or sustained as other cave routes, but still well worth doing. The business section is tricky but relatively short, so makes a good boulderer's route. After the rest only 1 moderately difficult pull remains.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Kryptic Curtain (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 12, 2013

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Comments: This route starts up a low 5.10 popcorn covered face to a no-hands rest below an interesting tufa curtain. At the tufa curtain things get more challenging, good pinches and underclings allow you to clip the bolt under the roof. A strenous cross from underclings to another smaller undercling allow for a challenging clip of the fixed draw. Here the crux starts and I was mystified, there is a jug just out of deadpoint reach for me, and the other holds are small and far apart. Seemed very Krypti... more >>


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