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Member Since: Mar 1, 2006
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
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DisturbingThePeace
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Total Points: 4,808
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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DisturbingThePeace

 
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All 2312 | Routes 350 | Areas 36 | Photos 94 | Page Improvements | Comments 298 | Posts 73 | Stars 1296 | Ratings 165
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: DisturbingThePeace When: 3 days ago

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Comments: So while there may be some additional safety factor between safe working load of the quicklinks and load capacity of these carabiners

@ Kennoyce, I was attempting to cover this with the above statement. That said looking at their website, I'm guessing that load capacity might include an additional safety factor. The Austrian company might just use different terminology. I still wouldn't use them for anything other than anchors however.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Sin after Sin (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Fun route and a nice mix of technical and powerful climbing. I ended up hanging a 4' draw from the last bolt so I could clip before the crux. I couldn't clip the last bolt directly until I was above it on jugs and much easier climbing.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Subdivisions : Los Huevos : La Parkita (5.12d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Warning: Onsight Spoiler

When did it break? I tried this on Saturday, and it didn't seem like there was anything to break off the left hand pinch / sidepull. My beta from the left hand jug was, rt gaston crimp, left three finger small crimp, rt intermediate bad crimp, rt sidepull pinch, left sidepull / pinch, dyno right hand for the jug.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Retirement Wall : Senility (5.12a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Very fun route with cool climbing on the upper section between hero jugs and a thin bouldery sequence at the bottom. The route splits after the first 3 bolts, for the 12a version climb the right set of bolts. The left set appears to be an open project with some very thin climbing.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Hunter Gatherer (5.12d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Aaron & James! Fun route with super steep climbing and pretty good holds.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : Midget Proof Direct (5.12d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: I had climbed this years ago ~2011, and had noted it as 5.12a. A few holds have broken since then leaving much harder climbing and a better route. Whats left seems quite solid.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 25, 2015

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Comments: To me, yes these would be good enough. I would lower off of these without any hesitation. A 5/16" quicklink, which is probably what is used to connect the chains to the hanger only has a safe working load of ~1760 lbs, 7.83kN climbtechgear.com/quicklink-5-.... The austrialpin website lists these carabiners as having a load capacity of ~2200 lbs, 10kN. austrialpin.net/products/milit... So while there may be some additional safety factor between safe work... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Easy Bake Alcove : The Color of Optimism (5.12c) : Photo
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: Anything will go if you're strong enough :) Note that this picture was taken after I had moved my feet over, for the throw they were the same. I haven't done this yet, but felt quite hard for 5.12c for me. And it might require a 5'8" to 5'9" reach.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : 99 Problems (5.12d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 17, 2015

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Comments: Fun route with a thin face climbing crux. Crux section is short, but the climbing above is fun and thought provoking. With some long draws we also started off the higher belay platform.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : The Funk (5.13c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 2, 2015

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Comments: This route feels really hard for 13c, I'm guessing the consensus will probably settle in at 13d or 14a, once it sees repeat ascents. Nice job Kinchen!


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : Bella Donna (5.13b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 2, 2015

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Comments: Despite all the glue the quality of the moves makes this one of the best 5.13's in NM. Amazing boulder problems with some tufa holds thrown in. Roughly breaks down into a V5, V6, V5 with good rests in between. In 5 years this will be as sought after for a tick as routes like Goliath & Sinister Dane are today.

I replaced the original faded draws with chains, as this gets a lot of sun. Bring a few extra draws if you are working it.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 26, 2015

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Comments: Yes, I believe it is still closed. Probably not a bad idea to call to verify if you are thinking about a trip.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Left of the Bat Cave : New Beginning (5.12+)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: Great route, two fun boulder problems probably both about V5, separated by a good rest. The first one techy the second more powerful. Then a fun challenging headwall. I'm guessing easy 12d or hard 12c for the grade.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : The Hindu : Maverick (5.9 C2)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: There was a rope fixed between pitch 1 & 2 in March 2012 when I climbed this route. I however did use the fixed line, since I was already aid climbing :). Hard to believe the same rope has been there for three years, but possible I guess.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Leaning Tower : Second Thought (5.12b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: Great Climb! Very unique movement and holds. Rock quality is still a bit marginal at the bottom but should continue to clean up.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Wine Wall : Black Beauty (5.12b/c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: Great route, probably on the stiff side of 5.12b, might be a 5.12c. Cool holds and two distinct boulder problems make this route really fun.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Wine Wall : Wine in the Box (5.12b/c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: Extremely bouldery route. The boulder problem off the ledge is a bit heady, I took the fall a few times but with an attentive belay it wasn't bad. May get a chain draw in the future, to move the clip a bit higher.

This route is also a bit of a PIA to clean due to the traversing nature at the top. I cleaned down to the ledge, then went in direct, untied and pulled the rope and down led back to the belay.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : The Big Flake (5.10)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: Rich, yes this is it, didn't have a name that I knew of, we just called it the warmup, as it was the easiest thing in the cave. Good to hear it has cleaned up. I've never been above the first set of anchors on this route.

The black streak was called "OG Mudbone", and a really cool line, I remember it being much harder than it looked. I don't know if it was ever sent or not.

Cool that you guys have been getting down there, the rock up high on that side of the cave looks cool with a lot of Tu... more >>


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : The Big Flake (5.10)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: Rich, if this is the climb that I'm thinking of (starts right side of the cave, just right a long black streak that has a little bit of tufa) it was bolted by Timy and John Kear. I spent some time cleaning it and it was still a bit of a choss pile. I remembered that it could use an extra bolt protecting the crux as it could be a bad fall.

Edit 4/2/15: After re-climbing this what it needs is a fixed draw on the second bolt above the ledge. This will protect the crux a lot better. I'll... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Wart : Something Big & Lovely (5.12a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Jason! I had always wondered if this route could be extended to the top of the wall, but it doesn't sound like it would add any good climbing.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Wine Wall
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: Climbed all of the routes on this wall and enjoyed all of them. The rock quality isn't the greatest, but didn't break anything off. Well worth a visit.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Isle of You : ... : Hell in a Handbasket (5.10c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: I'd say this one doesn't see much traffic due to the generous spacing between the first three bolts. Feels like you would come pretty close to the ground if you fell getting to the second or third bolt. Above the third bolt the route is well protected in all the harder sections.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Mike Wazowski (of Monsters ... (5.13+)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: With a kneebar pad I was able to dumb down the first crux and make the move to the first right hand pocket much easier. Low end 13c? This time of year the upper crux gets sun until after 5:00.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Tweak Fuck (5.14a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Cool, congrats on the FA Ben, and good luck to Ed. It is cool seeing it with chalk on it.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Tweak Fuck (5.14a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: I think Cody Roth did the FA of this back in the day.


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