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Member Since: Jun 3, 2006
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Devan Johnson


Point Rank: # 1,153
Total Points: 506
Last Year: 20
Last 30 Days: 5
139 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Devan Johnson been climbing?










Contributions


All (287) | Routes (2) | Areas (1) | Photos (89) | Comments (26) | Posts (97) | Stars (34) | Ratings (38)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Australia : Mount Arapiles : The Northern Group : Kachoong (5.10c) : Photo
By: Devan Johnson When: Jan 1, 2012

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Comments: photoshop!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Solitary Confinement (5.11)
By: Devan Johnson When: Dec 26, 2011

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Comments: Holy shit man.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Freeblast (5.11) : Photo
By: Devan Johnson When: Apr 14, 2011

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Comments: Now I remember why I don't go to Yosemite anymore...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Muscular Dystrophy (5.11a)
By: Devan Johnson When: Feb 24, 2011

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Comments: Gets my vote for the softest 11 at Eldo....


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Right Arm (5.10d)
By: Devan Johnson When: Oct 11, 2010

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Comments: maybe two thirds up it pinches down to green cam for 10-15ft, other than that nice hands are found throughout. Textbook 5.11....


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Death and Transfiguration (5.11b)
By: Devan Johnson When: Aug 10, 2010

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Comments: Yeow! What a line! Without a doubt an honest climb for the grade, still haven't climbed a Briggs or Erickson route that was soft for the grade. Couldn't believe that 1 80 ft pitch would be worth the long walk, but it most definitely is.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Paddle Flake Direct (5.10)
By: Devan Johnson When: Aug 3, 2010

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Comments: Much better overall than Mctech..


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Sunshine Crack (5.11-)
By: Devan Johnson When: Aug 3, 2010

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Comments: And at the top- definitely go right!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Sunshine Crack (5.11-)
By: Devan Johnson When: Aug 3, 2010

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Comments: As good as it gets, anywhere...


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Roadrunner (5.11-)
By: Devan Johnson When: Apr 6, 2010

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Comments: This might be one of the top 5 crack pitches in the Front Range at the grade, a true gem. And I've never seen anyone on it.

Bomber anchors at top thanks to Darren's hard work!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Cro-Magnum (5.12b)
By: Devan Johnson When: Mar 8, 2010

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Comments: There's not much to it, but figuring out the moves on this route was a blast. Tricky and highly worthwhile!


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Connections (5.10a)
By: Devan Johnson When: Jan 2, 2010

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Comments: Very underrated climb! Bolts are now all modern and safe, but this is still no sport climb. Overall, a great way to get to the money pitch on topo.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Gold Crown (5.11-)
By: Devan Johnson When: Nov 27, 2009

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Comments: Possibly the best route at the creek. Seriously.

The sections between perfect hands are short, but the length of this beauty pushes it into 5.11 territory. 70m makes it to the ground just fine.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b)
By: Devan Johnson When: Oct 26, 2009

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Comments: Huh. I thought this route was significantly easier than fine jade. Definitely no stopper cruxes like the finger crack bulge on fine jade.
Overall, an awesome route. Pitch one was definitely the money pitch. The last pitch was also great. Careful cam placements, and occational leapfrogging make the last pitch less scary.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Salathe Wall (5.9 C2)
By: Devan Johnson When: Sep 15, 2009

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Comments: Matt makes a good point about the climbing off of long ledge. I found it to be the crux of the route- mandatory 5.10 out of aiders. For whatever reason, moving out of aiders into free mode becomes suprisingly hard after 29 pitches or so.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Forrest Finish (5.10)
By: Devan Johnson When: Aug 26, 2009

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Comments: Wow- this is a physical climb. I thought it was a significant step up from Pevertical Sanctuary. The OW sections protect very well with a #4 cam and below- but still climb like OWs. The last pitch to Table Ledge was a wide, rattly, fist splitter- I'm guessing it's the last pitch of Black Dagger, but it seemed like the most logical line. Linking pitches on this climb would be difficult without serious runouts!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d)
By: Devan Johnson When: Jun 13, 2009

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Comments: Adam Brink and I climbed this route last week. Our impressions:

-Simul climbing the first 300' is definitely the way to go.

- Retreating from this route would be epic! There are no fixed anchors and the traversing nature of the pitches would make it difficult, although I'm sure it's been done plenty of times before.

- We found the pitches before and after the traverse to be the crux. Both were well protected where it mattered (although the first 20' of the pitch after the traverse offers no p... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Icarus (5.6 R)
By: Devan Johnson When: Apr 22, 2009

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Comments: Yeah, I wouldn't suggest this one to a 5.6 leader, the pro just isn't there.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Darkness 'til Dawn (5.10-)
By: Devan Johnson When: Apr 22, 2009

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Comments: I had a harder time on this route than on the first and last pitches of the Naked Edge.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock : The Hipster (5.12a)
By: Devan Johnson When: Apr 11, 2009

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Comments: Lots of fun! Thanks for putting up this route.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Sunshine (5.10a)
By: Devan Johnson When: Mar 26, 2009

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Comments: Agreed- my most memorable pitch at Seneca, definitely had my full attention..


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Days of Heaven (5.10d)
By: Devan Johnson When: Jul 18, 2008

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Comments: Tricky route, especially pitch two. Pitch 3 finishes with 20 feet of green cam sized splitter. Green cams with no feet means 5.11 to me, but it is pretty short.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Chimneys of Treasure
By: Devan Johnson When: Nov 12, 2007

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Comments: Hey Jeff- your best bet is to just grab the USGS Snowmass quad. The chimneys are clearly marked on the map, as the topozone link shows.

There are several great ways to get there. My map shows no private property on the bear basin approach, but probably best to error on the side of caution. Have fun back there!


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Carol's Crack (5.11a) : Photo
By: Devan Johnson When: Jul 15, 2007

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Comments: I believe this shot is of Diamond Dave leading Carol's (July 2001?)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Monster Tower : North Ridge (5.11)
By: Devan Johnson When: Mar 28, 2007

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Comments: Aaron Cloud and I did this route on 3/26. Here are our impressions:

The first pitch can be avoided by scrambling along the east side of the notch.
The second pitch is about as good as it gets in the desert. Hard, fun and pumpy. Mostly fist and wide hands.
Didn't lead the crux, but felt it was super hard and the OW's didn't give easy.
We had a 4 and 5 cam and were very thankful we brought them.
Belay bolts are in sorry shape, definitely need replacing.
Rapping down from the top of the 2nd p... more >>


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