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Cocaine Corner


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
Contact Derek Lawrence


Point Rank: # 1,004
Total Points: 582
Last Year: 32
Last 30 Days: 15
13 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Derek Lawrence been climbing?










Contributions


All (1133) | Routes (18) | Areas (1) | Photos (52) | Comments (127) | Posts (155) | Stars (402) | Ratings (378)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Monet (5.11d)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Apr 14, 2008

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Comments: Anybody have ANY beta on getting established on the face??? Tried yesterday but could not figure it out....


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge
By: Derek Lawrence When: Mar 16, 2008

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Comments: Thanks, Glenn!


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge
By: Derek Lawrence When: Mar 15, 2008

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Comments: Gotcha - that makes sense... thanks, Stefan.

Now...what's the deal w/ the dome with the right-leaning corners? (not labeled, behind 5...).

I can be emailed thru this site....


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge
By: Derek Lawrence When: Mar 15, 2008

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Comments: Wow Stefan, between your comment above and your comment on Phil's photo (which I thought WAS helpful), you sure come across as an ass...trying to have your own private crag? I've seen those crags for years heading down 67, just had no clue had to get there without crossing private property. Frankly, considering the length of the approach that I'm sure it involves, I don't think you'll be finding any Shelf Road crowds there ever.... Perhaps a friendlier soul will post the current approach direct... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Air Head (5.10a/b)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Mar 10, 2008

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Comments: Pulled a 20lb rock off this today (while lowering after noticing how loose it was on the way up). Lots of chalk on the top edge, so it had definitely been used.... Just a heads up, this flake system is still exfoliating and the freeze/thaw cycle this time of year can definitely force some changes....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande...
By: Derek Lawrence When: Mar 10, 2008

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Comments: This crag is refered to as Highlander in the guidebooks....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Garden Wall : Shady Boy (5.10c)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Sep 7, 2007

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Comments: Really awkward getting past the 1st bolt, then fun climbing up corner and slab.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Garden Wall : Shady Girl (5.10a)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Sep 7, 2007

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Comments: Fun route but harder than 10a (Rolofson has it at 10d in his new guide, but I would not say it's that hard...). Best approached from the NE using the very faint trail from Tetanus crag (the dirt slope below the Garden Wall is very loose)


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s
By: Derek Lawrence When: Jul 6, 2007

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Comments: Another rattlesnake encounter.... Pissed one off last night on the upper trail down from the Wall of the '90s right where it crosses the recent rock slide. The snake was under the bushes/large rock, but then slid down the dirt towards us... exciting!


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Captain America (5.10a)
By: Derek Lawrence When: May 29, 2007

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Comments: Fun climb but felt stiff for 10a. Did the flake on the left at the first bolt break off recently? (looks like there migth be a scar). I did not see anything weird about the initial slab....


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Apes in Estrus (5.10c)
By: Derek Lawrence When: May 29, 2007

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Comments: Don't see how you can call this 5.8 if you stay on the arete. There were thin moves between big holds. I did Tanks right after this and would still call this solid 10.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Neat (5.10)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Apr 16, 2007

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Comments: The left anchor bolt is loose! I tried to finger tighten (no wrench) but the hanger would rotate also and everytime i weighted the slings the hanger would rotate back left and loosen again... Its a Rawl 5-piece so you can't tell how loose it may actually be.. There are still 2 other bolts in the anchor but still... Heads Up!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Lats Don't Have Feelings (5.11d)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Mar 19, 2007

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Comments: The 3rd bolt on Lats is bad. The rock has blown out under the hanger exposing about a 1/2 inch or so of sleeve. If you were to fall and this bolt pulled, it would not be pretty....


Location: CO : Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma : Swan Mountain Road
By: Derek Lawrence When: Mar 1, 2007

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Comments: Swan Mtn is really fun bouldering in a great setting. In addition to the traverse, numerous problems top out, giving sort of a mini-soloing experience since the landings aren't the greatest.... Regarding the sport climb comment, it would be pathetic if someone actually bolted these boulder problems. I know in the past, bolts placed for top-rope anchors never lasted long... would expect the same for any lead bolts....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cash Wall : Funny Money (5.10b/c)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Feb 19, 2007

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Comments: Got on this yesterday, and I don't agree with Slim at all. I thought this was a lot of fun! I did not find any of the time-bomb flakes (perhaps they're gone), but I clipped from good pockets or edges. There was 1 flake under the first roof that MIGHT have been iffy, but I pulled pretty hard on it, and it's still there...if you use QDs that are different lengths, you can prevent the carabiner-over-an-edge issue....
Overall, I felt this had good movement, was sustained and well-protected and would... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Welcome to the Gorge (5.9)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Dec 12, 2006

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Comments: Fun route but felt like a sandbag at 5.9. Crux (for me) was getting from bolt 1 to 2


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Sendero Luminoso (5.10b R)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Dec 12, 2006

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Comments: Really fun route! A 60m will just barely get you down on rappel. It will NOT work to lower thru the draws. Also, the anchors at the top are in horrible condition. I would suggest rappelling from the rings instead of lowering...


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Walt Bailey (5.9)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Sep 7, 2006

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Comments: climbed this monday 9/7
the nut on the bolt w/ the rope eater warning is loose. I finger tightened but could not do more. someone may want to take a wrench next time


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Aug 22, 2006

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Comments: There is a good Alien placement just after the hard move past the pin as you start heading right. You should have given your leader hell for not placing it!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall
By: Derek Lawrence When: Aug 4, 2006

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Comments: Yes, the water is low enough to get below Bottom Side Down. You can then traverse out right to the bottom anchors of the other routes


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Road Rash Roof (5.12a)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Jul 21, 2006

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Comments: Fun route! Basically 60 ft of 5.9 to a V4 to 20 ft of 5.8 (the 5.10 mentioned in the description above is easily avoided by climbing left of the 4th bolt, rather than straight over it)

There are now chains w/ a ring at the anchors. A 60m will just get you to the sloping ramp.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Passing Lane (5.9)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Jun 9, 2006

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Comments: There is a very large, very loose block right below the anchors. It can easily be avoided on the left, but care should be taken not to yard on it...
UPDATE 7/21/06: the large block is now gone; looks like there is just dirt where it was....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab
By: Derek Lawrence When: May 24, 2006

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Comments: The hiker incident was nowhere near Cat Slab. It was about 1 mile west of tunnel 1.
I would say this is just the landowner finally putting their foot down....


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Pokey Minds the Baby (5.11a)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Apr 30, 2006

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Comments: Unfortunately, the bolts on Prickles Problem and Pokey Minds the Baby have been destroyed. These routes are unclimbable in their current condition (or at least unprotectable)


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Prickle's Problem (5.10d)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Apr 30, 2006

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Comments: I saw the comment above and drove by to check this out

Unfortunately, the bolts on Prickle's Problem and Pokey Minds the Baby have been destroyed. These were 2 good independent lines that were a lot of fun to climb so it is a shame that they are now unclimbable. I'm not sure what kind of statement was being made as the bolts weren't chopped, but just hammered over. They look a lot worse now.....


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