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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Welcome to the Gorge (5.9)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Dec 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route but felt like a sandbag at 5.9. Crux (for me) was getting from bolt 1 to 2
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Sendero Luminoso (5.10b R)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Dec 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun route! A 60m will just barely get you down on rappel. It will NOT work to lower thru the draws. Also, the anchors at the top are in horrible condition. I would suggest rappelling from the rings instead of lowering...
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Walt Bailey (5.9)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Sep 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: climbed this monday 9/7
the nut on the bolt w/ the rope eater warning is loose. I finger tightened but could not do more. someone may want to take a wrench next time
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Aug 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a good Alien placement just after the hard move past the pin as you start heading right. You should have given your leader hell for not placing it!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall
By: Derek Lawrence When: Aug 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, the water is low enough to get below Bottom Side Down. You can then traverse out right to the bottom anchors of the other routes
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Road Rash Roof (5.12a)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Jul 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route! Basically 60 ft of 5.9 to a V4 to 20 ft of 5.8 (the 5.10 mentioned in the description above is easily avoided by climbing left of the 4th bolt, rather than straight over it)
There are now chains w/ a ring at the anchors. A 60m will just get you to the sloping ramp.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Passing Lane (5.9)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Jun 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a very large, very loose block right below the anchors. It can easily be avoided on the left, but care should be taken not to yard on it...
UPDATE 7/21/06: the large block is now gone; looks like there is just dirt where it was....
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab
By: Derek Lawrence When: May 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The hiker incident was nowhere near Cat Slab. It was about 1 mile west of tunnel 1.
I would say this is just the landowner finally putting their foot down....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Pokey Minds the Baby (5.11a)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Apr 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unfortunately, the bolts on Prickles Problem and Pokey Minds the Baby have been destroyed. These routes are unclimbable in their current condition (or at least unprotectable)
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Prickle's Problem (5.10d)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Apr 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I saw the comment above and drove by to check this out
Unfortunately, the bolts on Prickle's Problem and Pokey Minds the Baby have been destroyed. These were 2 good independent lines that were a lot of fun to climb so it is a shame that they are now unclimbable. I'm not sure what kind of statement was being made as the bolts weren't chopped, but just hammered over. They look a lot worse now.....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock : Lickety Split (5.7 R)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Jan 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this yesterday. Bolts ARE there at the end of the 1st pitch. The first 2 bolts are still old 1/4 inchers (2nd one has a leeper hanger that spins). Still need gear for the top anchor (medium nuts, small-medium cams). This is a fun climb that never gets old....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome
By: Derek Lawrence When: Jun 2, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike, Which route is the *date* route?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Acid Rock : Charley Don't Surf (5.10d)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Jun 2, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: RE: The added anchors.That sucks to hear that someone did that. How close to the crack are they? If I recall, you could always swing/tension right to the anchors on The Divine Ms. M. if you wanted. Convenience anchors like this seem to keep springing up. Sounds like these would be a good candidate for removal/repair....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Good Virbrations (5.11b)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Nov 20, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bob, Where is this in relation to slippery when wet/Slippery when dry? Sounds like it shares the first part. (Too cold to go look at today)
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Rush Buick (5.7)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Sep 16, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this on Labor day. Since there were no anchors at the top of the route - we went up and left along the rotten band at the top to near the top of Heart of -Gold. There is a small tree w/ slings (I added a quick link) about 10 feet back. A 60m rope will just barely get you down the bushy corner below the tree. Anchors more in line with the route would be nice.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Bishop Jaggers (5.9)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Jul 10, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb (along with the Dome and the Cathedral Spires )is closed from March 1 to July 31 and has been for years. Its still posted as closed on the Access Fund site. Please don't climb here during this time frame.
P.S. If someone has info that it opened early - please post it!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Squat Rock : Jelly Omelet (5.10c)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Feb 20, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: See my comment on Sex Favors but I think this route description is actually for that route. Both features and difficulty (5.9ish and easier that Elusive Wapiti - which I find hard) seem to match. I don't think there are bolts between this line and Elusive Wapiti.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Squat Rock : Sex Favor (5.8)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Feb 20, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hill, based on your description for this and Jelly Omlet, I think you were off by 1 route. This decription sounds like Miss Conception 5.9+ (never done - just stared at that rusty bolt!). I've done what I considered to be the route Sex Favors and the description matches yours for Jelly Omlet. There are 5 good bolts thru what I've always felt was tough for 5.8 (call it 5.9). I'd give the route 2 stars based on my assumptions.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Sick Minds Think Alike (5.8)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Jan 9, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doug, Hubbel's guides are notoriously inaccurate. Considering that the person who posted this route is the one who did the FA, I would say that this is just another case of Hubbel being wrong. (Check out the Table Mtn section of his Front Range Crags guide to see how bad it can get - entire sections of cliffs incorrect)
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : Nautilus
By: Derek Lawrence When: Dec 6, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just to add more info - the bolts looked to be rawl 5-pieces. They will pull nicely without causing any MORE damage to the rock. This time though, the holes should be patched so the morons don't get any more ideas!
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : Nautilus
By: Derek Lawrence When: Dec 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Absolutely!!! I was up there last friday and saw the bolts. There had been a couple of holes where the first 2 bolts are for several years (put in about the time the hard route out of the Black Hole was installed). Had I had a wrench with me the bolts wouldn't be there anymore. As it is I wouldn't count on them being there for long! This route has been led clean (and soloed!) besides being a great top-rope. The gear doesn't even look too bad.
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Location: CO : South Platte : North Turkey Creek Crags
By: Derek Lawrence When: Aug 6, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are "NO TRESPASSING" signs all over this property. It has been closed for several years and I would assume it still is. Too bad - there are some fun routes here.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Acid Rock : The Divine Ms M. (5.9-)
By: Derek Lawrence When: May 29, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Montay - That's the one! BTW would you have any info on the new line to the left of Sandinista? Looks cool.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Acid Rock : The Divine Ms M. (5.9-)
By: Derek Lawrence When: May 29, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just to reiterate a comment I made in the Helen's Dome Areas section.... Someone with a VERY liberal bolting ethics has been busy here. There are 2 new routes on Acid Rock that look interesting. However, there is also a bolted route on the rock along the approach to Acid from Helen's which looks contrived and worthless as shit (you can almost clip the first bolt from the trail). Since it is a HARD 30-45 minute uphill approach to this rock, I can't justify this as a beginner lead. Furthermore, th... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock : Lickety Split (5.7 R)
By: Derek Lawrence When: Apr 24, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route was rebolted (retrobolted?) a few years back, but rather than just replacing the old bolts, whoever did it decided to replace all but the bottom 2 bolts and to add an extra bolt above the 1st belay and the bolts on top. The top belay is easily set up with medium-sized gear (2-3 pieces) and the walk-off is not bad - no need to rap. The top bolts should be completely pulled and the holes patched as they are NOT needed and were never there until a few years ago. The actual route though i... more >>
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