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Member Since: Apr 26, 2010
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 569 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 136 | Posts 199 | Stars 140 | Ratings 88
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Main Wall : Kid Charlemagne (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: I think you must have missed something, Chris! There's a low .10a crux just off the ground, then it's pretty cruiser 5.9ish climbing for a few bolts before another brief crux bulge, then a bit more moderate ground to the anchor. Are you sure you're not referring to the direct start to Arms Reduction? If you do that straight up to the first bolt rather than traversing in, I could believe 5.11.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Main Wall : Year of the Dog (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: The climbing to reach the first anchors is .9+ish, and the crux is a one move wonder. The rest of the climbing is easier, but very worthwhile. There is a brief section of PG/PG13 5.7-5.8 climbing halfway to the midpoint rap anchor, by the way.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Main Wall : War on Drugs (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: A very fun pitch, deserving of the increased popularity the Kid Charlemagne start will no doubt confer.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Main Wall : Year of the Dog (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: Actually, like all of the main face routes, YOD is an excellent, long single pitch with a convenient mid point rap anchor to facilitate a single rope rap descent. Why break these routes in to two pitches? Just sayin'!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Casual Observer (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 5, 2011

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Comments: Superb, highly recommended linkup:

P1 & 2: Climb Casual Observer to the top of the 2nd pitch, .10b and .11a.

P3: Thrash briefly up and right (4th / easy 5th, but watch for loose rock) to join Fastest Gun at the top of its 2nd pitch. There are several options for belay stances here, but all require care: This section of the cliff is little more than a pile of giant hollow blocks.

P4: Climb P3 of Fastest Gun, .10a

P5: Several options are available here. Possibly the best are P4 of Fastest ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Chapel Wall : The Great Escape (5.11c)
By: Derek Doucet When: May 5, 2011

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Comments: Not trying to begin a huge debate (I've never even been on the route!), but this description seems to indicate that there is a bolted "TCU crack" on the final pitch. Is there in fact an otherwise protectable bolted crack on this route? Again, not looking to start a flame-fest, just posing a simple question. Thanks!


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Great Head : Morning Glory Alcove : Corsair (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 20, 2011

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Comments: ^^Yes.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : The Slip (5.10 V1-2)
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 18, 2011

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Comments: That's an old boulder/TR problem. I have no idea of its history, but folks have climbed it on and off for years.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Hush, Mama Thrush (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 18, 2011

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Comments: Best route at Lower West? Probably so.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 18, 2011

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Comments: Hi Gabe,

No formal topos are available at the moment, but a guidebook of Vermont rock is nearing completion and will feature the Bolton area prominently. Upper Upper will certainly be included.

Upper Upper (AKA Doube Upper) West is just a bit further up Bolton Notch Road from the Upper West pulloff. You park at the obvious Preston Pond Trailhead, on the left as you're headed up the Notch Rd.

FYI, Upper Upper is often subject to peregrine nesting closures in the spring. I haven't heard whethe... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Bozeman Bullet (5.6)
By: Derek Doucet When: Feb 24, 2011

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Comments: One of the best 5.6 pitchs in the greater Keene Valley region. Great rock, cool moves, awesome position for such a short route.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Southern Hospitality p1 (5.11c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Feb 17, 2011

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Comments: ^^Agreed. IMO, P1 of Psalm 32 is probably .11b (at most). P1 of Southern Hospitality feels like solid .11+ to me. Both pitches are superb whatever the grade!


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bone Mountain : the Main Cliff : Middle Cliff Routes : ... : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Feb 2, 2011

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Comments: Is that Family Picnic? That one brings back fond memories. We spent a bunch of time out there that spring. Tons of potential remains...


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bolton Quarry : Cat's Ass Wall : The Cat's Ass (5.11d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Feb 1, 2011

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Comments: Bolted in April, 2005 by Travis, and gang-ascended in rapid succession by Travis Peckham, Paul Hansen, Derek Doucet, Nick Yardley, Garret Bywaters, Alden Pellett, and Dave Furman. It felt mighty good to be back on warm, sunny rock after a long winter. The crux was really hard until we figured out we were all doing it wrong...


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bolton Quarry : Schoolhouse/Main Quarry : Collateral Daveage (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Feb 1, 2011

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Comments: It was April, 1999. Geesh, we're getting old!


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Upper Tier - Left End : Breaking and Entering (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Feb 1, 2011

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Comments: Actually named Breaking and Entering by the FA team.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Upper Tier - Right End : Chockstone (aka:Captain's C... (5.7 PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Feb 1, 2011

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Comments: TRing this route would be inconvenient. The approach to the top from below the Rose Crack, then up to the right and then back left and down a steep and exposed step to gain the anchors would be involved, and might very possibly involve a rappel. Add to this the fact that a single 60m rope would just barely reach the ledge, and then only at the far right end, which is narrow and somewhat sloping (an anchor for the belayer can be built with small wires and would be a prudent step), and it... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West
By: Derek Doucet When: Feb 1, 2011

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Comments: The true name of the route sometimes referred to as "Corkscrew" is "Breaking and Entering", FA Paul Hansen and Dave Furman. If you climb the corner, the entire route is about 5.8. If you climb the face, it's perhaps .9+ or so.

It's Not a Cruise (aka Home Depot) is the farthest left route, on the small wall at the left end of the cliff, and is indeed tricky 5.9, FA Kristian Barrowman and June Mendell . At the right end of the same wall is True Value,F... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Mineville : Mineville Pillar (WI4)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jan 31, 2011

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Comments: See my comment on the Power Play description. Like this one, that text too is taken almost verbatim from Don Mellor's excellent guidebook Blue Lines.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Power Play (WI4+)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jan 31, 2011

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Comments: My goodness. I know this is kind of late (this description was posted in 2007), but this is a bit ridiculous. Two thirds of this description is taken verbatim from Don Mellor's guidebook Blue Lines. If the poster has permission from Mr. Mellor, it should be noted here. If not, lame.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Lower Tier : Against The Grain (5.11b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: A great looking line that is sadly flawed. It is broken at half height by a huge ledge, requires deliberate avoidance of a big chossy corner in places, and doesn't really climb the stunning arete that appears so compelling from below. It's really more of a face climb in close proximity to an arete, with some poor rock thrown in for good measure. The two sport routes just to the left are much, much better IMO, and of roughly the same difficulty (.10a to .11a). Certainly worth an ascent i... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : North End : The Thorn (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: A fine variation known as the "The Prick Finish" breaks right, roughly where the original route steps left, and hand traverses along an obvious finger crack up and right to the top. .11bish, and pumpy. Very nice!


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs : North End Pillars (WI3-4) : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Nov 19, 2010

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Comments: Leashless. Nice.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Upper Tier - Right End : Chockstone (aka:Captain's C... (5.7 PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Oct 1, 2010

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Comments: The original name was Ledangier, though it is usually referred to as Chockstone these days, and ocassionally as Captain's Crack. The route is certainly not PG13, as there is abundant good gear if the leader keeps her/his eyes open and is reasonably proficient at placing pro. Generally considered 5.8, though 5.7+ seems fair enough. FA: John Bouchard, 1974.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : Worthless Stud (5.11b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Oct 1, 2010

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Comments: Glad you liked it. Curious why the PG13 rating, though? The gear above the roof is absolutely bomber, drop-in large nuts (I've seen folks whip on them many times!) and the lower face is overbolted, IMO. I've wanted to remove one of the bolts on the face for years. Paul Hansen and I rap bolted the route, and it was desperate drilling top down on the lower face because of the roof system above. If I had it to do over again, I'd drill the lower face ground up and the roof system top down. Live and ... more >>


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