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Member Since: Apr 26, 2010
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,815
Total Points: 162
Last Year: 27
Last 30 Days: 1
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All (496) | Routes (5) | Areas | Photos | Comments (112) | Posts (161) | Stars (134) | Ratings (84)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over the Hill (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 8, 2010

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Comments: Loved the first pitch. Fine, sustained stemming. I thought the second pitch (the 5.9 crack off the ledge that folks seem to love so much) was only fair. Uninteresting face climbing around a finger crack, and some hollow rock up high. OK as a second pitch, but I wouldn't bother with it again. Now the stemming corner on the other hand was superb. I'd just rap off from there and do one of the other brilliant pitches at Rincon instead.


Location: NH : Rumney : Apocalypse Walls : Captain Fingers (5.11c) : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 27, 2010

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Comments: Calling Captain Fingers, in its original FA condition, a "sport route", would stretch the current definition a bit. Let's just say there were considerably fewer bolts on the route then, and falling would have been rather exciting in places...


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Spanky's Area : Birch Wall : Chocoholic (5.11b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 19, 2010

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Comments: A number 3 camalot is nice below the roof, but IMO gear is unnecessary above. By the time the 4th bolt is about 2' below your feet, you've passed the crux, and reached very good holds and easy climbing. One might place gear in this vicinity, but it's only another easy move or two to the secure final clip.

A fall on to the 4th bolt from above the crux would, without supplemental gear, be modestly long (an honest 12'-15' perhaps?), but steep and clean provided your belayer keeps the lip of the r... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : The Politics of Dancing (5.10a PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 5, 2010

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Comments: While Alden drilled this route, the actual FA was done by Ivan Tighe before the final one or two bolts were placed...he thought the route was complete. He was mistaken. Good thing he's solid at the grade!


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bolton Quarry : The Cat's Ass (5.11d) : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 5, 2010

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Comments: Looks like Alden Pellet, Travis Peckham, Derek Doucet and possible Dave Furman on the ground...


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Unknown (5.10a PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 5, 2010

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Comments: Generally referred to as "The Kontos Sport Route". FA Tom Kontos. No anchor on top.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Tea in the Sahara (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 5, 2010

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Comments: This route is actually around the corner to the RIGHT of the A wall, not the left as stated in the description above. Some small to mid sized gear is necessary in the right facing corner above the crux roof to avoid a long run out. It was never intended to be a sport route. FA: Mark Guider, though I've heard rumors of an earlier boltless ascent as well.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Bloody Mary (5.9+)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 3, 2010

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Comments: With a 70m rope, one can rap from the top of P2 back to the belay ledge atop P1. From there, look to the climbers' left end of the ledge and you'll find another anchor, reachable with some brief, though exposed, scrambling. This allows one to climb and descend P 1 and 2 with a single 70m rope.

P2 is very good. The pitches above are definitely not.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Air Male (5.11d PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 3, 2010

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Comments: The route to the original anchor is mid 5.11, hence my rating of .11b. I haven't done the extension yet, and it may well be more difficult.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : Alternative Power (5.12b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: The name of the route is Alternative Power, not Powers


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : Who's Your Daddy (5.12c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: The post deletion was intended as part of the humor...

All satire aside Colin, there is no xenophobia involved. Keep in mind that a significant proportion of Bolton route developement was done by folks who grew up climbing in the Adirondacks and other older climbing areas. That is the frame of reference they apply, often quite consciously and deliberately, when proposing grades. Many of the more recently arrived Bolton climbers on the other hand appear to use other areas (primarily Rumney?) as ... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : Who's Your Daddy (5.12c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 26, 2010

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Comments: Curses, foiled again! I've deleted my posts because they might be construed as evidence supporting Colin's Bolton sandbagging conspiracy theory. Now I'll have to figure out new tactics to keep out visiting climbers, and destroy the fragile egos of those with the temerity, the cheek, the gall, the impertinence, the impudence, the audacity, the...the...nerve to come anyway.




Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Poke-O-Moonshine : Positive Thinking (WI5)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 19, 2010

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Comments: An absolutely superb route! In typical mid season conditions, PT is usually on the easy end of grade 5, but when thin and boney, it can feel much harder!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Right End : Reach For The Sky (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 19, 2010

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Comments: Very fun gear protected jug hauling on a nice steep wall!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Casual Observer (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 19, 2010

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Comments: In a funny and ironic twist, after spouting off about the second pitch in these comments, I went and did it again on one of those 85 degree, sauna like days we've been having, and got worked. In many, many previous ascents, I've never come remotely close to falling off this thing, but this time I barely squeaked through without pitching in two spots! I was chuckling to myself, thinking of my posts here the whole time!


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Juvenile (5.11c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 19, 2010

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Comments: Curious as to why the OP listed this as PG13? The route climbs easily to bomber gear, and is then a tightly bolted clip-up to the anchors: About as "G" as it comes. In any case, a very worthwhile and fun pitch!


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : Alternative Power (5.12b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 15, 2010

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Comments: Crux bolt missing its hanger as of 7/14/10.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Old Town (5.7)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 9, 2010

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Comments: Rock climbs get harder, and they get longer, but move for move, they don't get much better. Absolutely perfect stone, pleasant and interesting moves, great pro, a fantastic setting, and sustained at the grade. A flawless pitch of climbing. Climb this route!


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Recollections of Pacifica (5.9)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 9, 2010

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Comments: I'm not sure what the OP means by a "long finger crack". Like so many routes on the island, this route is both of superb quality, and tragically short. As in perhaps 30' of climbing short. A one (really, really fun) move wonder, albeit one with impeccable rock, in a gorgeous setting. Absolutely worth climbing, but don't expect anything long or sustained.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Maniacal Depression (5.11c PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 9, 2010

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Comments: A fun 5.10a or b pitch gets things off to a promising start. The second pitch consists of lots of pleasant, easy climbing interrupted by a 15' boulder problem crux. While this section is very nice indeed, the route is not at all sustained, and did not live up to its billing in my opinion. The crux is certainly stout, and modestly spicy as well, but is so out of character with the rest of the route that the overall experience is not especially satisfying. Selfless Bastard is more sustained (thoug... more >>


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Pipe Dreams (5.12b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 1, 2010

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Comments: Hilarious. I've always heard it called .12a. It's certainly considerably harder than High Wire, which is probably .11bish, no?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Raptor's Sream (5.12c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 26, 2010

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Comments: This is a gorgeous line, though the one time I tried it, I got totally pummeled. It's on the project list for sure!


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Madame Dubois Wild Ride (5.8+)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 13, 2010

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Comments: This route is actually called "Madam Labois' Troubled Lunge".


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Casual Observer (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 10, 2010

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Comments: Hi Jim,

Sorry if my posts came off as truly critical. Tone is so hard to convey and interpret in this medium, a fact all too easy to forget sometimes. I assure you that everything I wrote was written with a smile on my face, and in the time honored tradition of campfire spraying and grade debates, though in rereading it, I can certainly see how it might have been interpreted more harshly. Note to self: this sort of thing is best done in person with a tasty beverage in hand.

Thanks for the wond... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Gamesmanship (5.8+)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 10, 2010

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Comments: An excellent first pitch and a good 4th pitch are detracted from by uninteresting and unaesthetic climbing on pitches 2 and 3. I'd give P1 4 stars and P4 3 stars, but none to the other pitches, and so the route as a whole only 2 stars.

Better to do P1 and rap, then do the Sting and Green Onion to take in 3 excellent 5.8s. IMHO, the only compelling reason to do the entire route is because it provides a moderate way to get to the top of Poko, which is admittedly a rare thing!


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