Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Apr 26, 2010
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Derek Doucet


Point Rank: # 2,827
Total Points: 172
Last Year: 20
Last 30 Days: 4
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Derek Doucet been climbing?










Contributions


All 534 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 122 | Posts 184 | Stars 137 | Ratings 86
Page 4 of 5.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Breaking and Entering (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Feb 1, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Actually named Breaking and Entering by the FA team.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Captain's Crack (5.7 PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Feb 1, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: TRing this route would be inconvenient. The approach to the top from below the Rose Crack, then up to the right and then back left and down a steep and exposed step to gain the anchors would be involved, and might very possibly involve a rappel. Add to this the fact that a single 60m rope would just barely reach the ledge, and then only at the far right end, which is narrow and somewhat sloping (an anchor for the belayer can be built with small wires and would be a prudent step), and it... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton
By: Derek Doucet When: Feb 1, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The true name of the route sometimes referred to as "Corkscrew" is "Breaking and Entering", FA Paul Hansen and Dave Furman. If you climb the corner, the entire route is about 5.8. If you climb the face, it's perhaps .9+ or so.

It's Not a Cruise (aka Home Depot) is the farthest left route, on the small wall at the left end of the cliff, and is indeed tricky 5.9, FA Kristian Barrowman and June Mendell . At the right end of the same wall is True Value,F... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Mineville : Mineville Pillar (WI4)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jan 31, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: See my comment on the Power Play description. Like this one, that text too is taken almost verbatim from Don Mellor's excellent guidebook Blue Lines.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Power Play (WI4+)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jan 31, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: My goodness. I know this is kind of late (this description was posted in 2007), but this is a bit ridiculous. Two thirds of this description is taken verbatim from Don Mellor's guidebook Blue Lines. If the poster has permission from Mr. Mellor, it should be noted here. If not, lame.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Against The Grain (5.11b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jan 25, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: A great looking line that is sadly flawed. It is broken at half height by a huge ledge, requires deliberate avoidance of a big chossy corner in places, and doesn't really climb the stunning arete that appears so compelling from below. It's really more of a face climb in close proximity to an arete, with some poor rock thrown in for good measure. The two sport routes just to the left are much, much better IMO, and of roughly the same difficulty (.10a to .11a). Certainly worth an ascent i... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : The Thorn (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jan 25, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: A fine variation known as the "The Prick Finish" breaks right, roughly where the original route steps left, and hand traverses along an obvious finger crack up and right to the top. .11bish, and pumpy. Very nice!


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs : North End Pillars (WI3-4) : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Nov 19, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Leashless. Nice.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Captain's Crack (5.7 PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Oct 1, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: The original name was Ledangier, though it is usually referred to as Chockstone these days, and ocassionally as Captain's Crack. The route is certainly not PG13, as there is abundant good gear if the leader keeps her/his eyes open and is reasonably proficient at placing pro. Generally considered 5.8, though 5.7+ seems fair enough. FA: John Bouchard, 1974.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : Worthless Stud (5.11b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Oct 1, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Glad you liked it. Curious why the PG13 rating, though? The gear above the roof is absolutely bomber, drop-in large nuts (I've seen folks whip on them many times!) and the lower face is overbolted, IMO. I've wanted to remove one of the bolts on the face for years. Paul Hansen and I rap bolted the route, and it was desperate drilling top down on the lower face because of the roof system above. If I had it to do over again, I'd drill the lower face ground up and the roof system top down. Live and ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over the Hill (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 8, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Loved the first pitch. Fine, sustained stemming. I thought the second pitch (the 5.9 crack off the ledge that folks seem to love so much) was only fair. Uninteresting face climbing around a finger crack, and some hollow rock up high. OK as a second pitch, but I wouldn't bother with it again. Now the stemming corner on the other hand was superb. I'd just rap off from there and do one of the other brilliant pitches at Rincon instead.


Location: NH : Rumney : Apocalypse Walls : Captain Fingers (5.11c) : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 27, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Calling Captain Fingers, in its original FA condition, a "sport route", would stretch the current definition a bit. Let's just say there were considerably fewer bolts on the route then, and falling would have been rather exciting in places...


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Spanky's Area : Birch Wall : Chocoholic (5.11b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 19, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: A number 3 camalot is nice below the roof, but IMO gear is unnecessary above. By the time the 4th bolt is about 2' below your feet, you've passed the crux, and reached very good holds and easy climbing. One might place gear in this vicinity, but it's only another easy move or two to the secure final clip.

A fall on to the 4th bolt from above the crux would, without supplemental gear, be modestly long (an honest 12'-15' perhaps?), but steep and clean provided your belayer keeps the lip of the r... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : The Politics of Dancing (5.10a PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 5, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: While Alden drilled this route, the actual FA was done by Ivan Tighe before the final one or two bolts were placed...he thought the route was complete. He was mistaken. Good thing he's solid at the grade!


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bolton Quarry : The Cat's Ass (5.11d) : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 5, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Looks like Alden Pellet, Travis Peckham, Derek Doucet and possible Dave Furman on the ground...


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Unknown (5.10a PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 5, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Generally referred to as "The Kontos Sport Route". FA Tom Kontos. No anchor on top.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Tea in the Sahara (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 5, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: This route is actually around the corner to the RIGHT of the A wall, not the left as stated in the description above. Some small to mid sized gear is necessary in the right facing corner above the crux roof to avoid a long run out. It was never intended to be a sport route. FA: Mark Guider, though I've heard rumors of an earlier boltless ascent as well.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Bloody Mary (5.9+)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 3, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: With a 70m rope, one can rap from the top of P2 back to the belay ledge atop P1. From there, look to the climbers' left end of the ledge and you'll find another anchor, reachable with some brief, though exposed, scrambling. This allows one to climb and descend P 1 and 2 with a single 70m rope.

P2 is very good. The pitches above are definitely not.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Air Male (5.11d PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 3, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: The route to the original anchor is mid 5.11, hence my rating of .11b. I haven't done the extension yet, and it may well be more difficult.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : Alternative Power (5.12b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 28, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: The name of the route is Alternative Power, not Powers


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : Who's Your Daddy (5.12c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 28, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: The post deletion was intended as part of the humor...

All satire aside Colin, there is no xenophobia involved. Keep in mind that a significant proportion of Bolton route developement was done by folks who grew up climbing in the Adirondacks and other older climbing areas. That is the frame of reference they apply, often quite consciously and deliberately, when proposing grades. Many of the more recently arrived Bolton climbers on the other hand appear to use other areas (primarily Rumney?) as ... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : Who's Your Daddy (5.12c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 26, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Curses, foiled again! I've deleted my posts because they might be construed as evidence supporting Colin's Bolton sandbagging conspiracy theory. Now I'll have to figure out new tactics to keep out visiting climbers, and destroy the fragile egos of those with the temerity, the cheek, the gall, the impertinence, the impudence, the audacity, the...the...nerve to come anyway.




Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Poke-O-Moonshine : Positive Thinking (WI5)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 19, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: An absolutely superb route! In typical mid season conditions, PT is usually on the easy end of grade 5, but when thin and boney, it can feel much harder!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Right End : Reach For The Sky (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 19, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Very fun gear protected jug hauling on a nice steep wall!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Casual Observer (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 19, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: In a funny and ironic twist, after spouting off about the second pitch in these comments, I went and did it again on one of those 85 degree, sauna like days we've been having, and got worked. In many, many previous ascents, I've never come remotely close to falling off this thing, but this time I barely squeaked through without pitching in two spots! I was chuckling to myself, thinking of my posts here the whole time!


Page 4 of 5.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>