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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Casual Observer (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: In a funny and ironic twist, after spouting off about the second pitch in these comments, I went and did it again on one of those 85 degree, sauna like days we've been having, and got worked. In many, many previous ascents, I've never come remotely close to falling off this thing, but this time I barely squeaked through without pitching in two spots! I was chuckling to myself, thinking of my posts here the whole time!
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Juvenile (5.11c PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Curious as to why the OP listed this as PG13? The route climbs easily to bomber gear, and is then a tightly bolted clip-up to the anchors: About as "G" as it comes. In any case, a very worthwhile and fun pitch!
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : Alternative Power (5.12b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux bolt missing its hanger as of 7/14/10.
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Old Town (5.7)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rock climbs get harder, and they get longer, but move for move, they don't get much better. Absolutely perfect stone, pleasant and interesting moves, great pro, a fantastic setting, and sustained at the grade. A flawless pitch of climbing. Climb this route!
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Recollections of Pacifica (5.9)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure what the OP means by a "long finger crack". Like so many routes on the island, this route is both of superb quality, and tragically short. As in perhaps 30' of climbing short. A one (really, really fun) move wonder, albeit one with impeccable rock, in a gorgeous setting. Absolutely worth climbing, but don't expect anything long or sustained.
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Maniacal Depression (5.11c PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun 5.10a or b pitch gets things off to a promising start. The second pitch consists of lots of pleasant, easy climbing interrupted by a 15' boulder problem crux. While this section is very nice indeed, the route is not at all sustained, and did not live up to its billing in my opinion. The crux is certainly stout, and modestly spicy as well, but is so out of character with the rest of the route that the overall experience is not especially satisfying. Selfless Bastard is more sustained (thoug... more >>
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Pipe Dreams (5.12b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hilarious. I've always heard it called .12a. It's certainly considerably harder than High Wire, which is probably .11bish, no?
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Raptor's Sream (5.12c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a gorgeous line, though the one time I tried it, I got totally pummeled. It's on the project list for sure!
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Madame Dubois Wild Ride (5.8+)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is actually called "Madam Labois' Troubled Lunge".
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Casual Observer (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Jim,
Sorry if my posts came off as truly critical. Tone is so hard to convey and interpret in this medium, a fact all too easy to forget sometimes. I assure you that everything I wrote was written with a smile on my face, and in the time honored tradition of campfire spraying and grade debates, though in rereading it, I can certainly see how it might have been interpreted more harshly. Note to self: this sort of thing is best done in person with a tasty beverage in hand.
Thanks for the wond... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Gamesmanship (5.8+)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: An excellent first pitch and a good 4th pitch are detracted from by uninteresting and unaesthetic climbing on pitches 2 and 3. I'd give P1 4 stars and P4 3 stars, but none to the other pitches, and so the route as a whole only 2 stars.
Better to do P1 and rap, then do the Sting and Green Onion to take in 3 excellent 5.8s. IMHO, the only compelling reason to do the entire route is because it provides a moderate way to get to the top of Poko, which is admittedly a rare thing!
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Southern Hospitality p1 (5.11c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: One word: Stout.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Scallion (5.10a PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: High on the list of most pleasant .10- pitches at Poko. Climbing Scallion, Home Rule, and The Natural (all .10 a or b, and all starting within about 30' of one another) is a perfect way to fill out a day of Poko cragging.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Menace To Sobriety (5.10c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Linking this w/ P2 of Cirrhosis produces one of the finest 5.10 pitches at Poko, with varied, sustained and intricate climbing throughout. Highly recommended!
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Casual Observer (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hello Jim,
As I hope was clear from my original comment, none of this was intended as criticism of your efforts with the book, and in fairness to you, I have not seen the reprint either. Just to be perfectly clear, I'll say it outright: Your book is sensational. Superb. Amazing in every way. Anyone interested in climbing in the Adirondacks, or who is simply a guidebook aficionado, should buy 2 or more copies immediately.
All that said, I'm not implying that Poko should be rated any differentl... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Green Onion (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the nicest moderates on the cliff, but it seems to get little traffic. Looks poorly protected from below, but can be sewn up. The guidebook says the anchor atop P1 is left of the crack, which is incorrect. There is a good fixed anchor to the right of the crack. And to reiterate Jonothan's comment, a 60m JUST BARELY reaches.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Macho (5.11b R)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed^^. There is some long, clean fall potential high on the route, on to good gear. It's definitely pretty heady, but probably not especially dangerous for a 5.11 leader with very good protection placement skills. There's nothing to hit, after all. This all sounds much more reasonable from my keyboard than high on the route, of course!
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Fastest Gun (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 can be completely adaquately protected with nothing larger than a #3 camalot.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Casual Observer (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Chris,
Like most routes at Poko, I don't think this one has much to do with strength, though I appreciate the kind words!
The crux of The Casual Observer is classic Poko face climbing (albeit on an arete): Off vertical, thin, balancy and technical edging. That style just doesn't seem to be in fashion anymore, and consequently, it seems folks often find Poko challenging. Frequently, there just isn't that much to pull on, which seems to confound many climbers accustomed to steep, postive ho... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Casual Observer (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! Excellent, well protected climbing on both pitches. Sorry though, folks. There is no way P2 is 5.11. .10c or d maybe, but absolutely no way is it 5.11! Whatever, it's a great route.
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Arms Reduction (5.11b/c)
By: Derek Doucet When: May 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Going straight up rather than trending right at the mid height anchor is Year of the Dog, a superb .10c, which is itself one of the very best pitches in the area. A few fingers to rattly fingers pieces will be welcome on Year of the Dog.
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: May 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: .12d??? No, not really. But whatever, a total classic for sure!
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Chimney (5.4 PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: May 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The traditional name for this route is "Dead Babies". You can thank me later...
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