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Member Since: Apr 26, 2010
Last Visit: 31 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 2,805
Total Points: 175
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Derek Doucet been climbing?










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All 538 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 125 | Posts 185 | Stars 137 | Ratings 86
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Harvest Moon (5.7+ R)
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 22, 2012

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Comments: R-rated for sure. I often see people fooling themselves placing junk pro on the initial face, but the reality is that there is little to no worthwhile gear until a horizontal out left accepts finger-sized cams at about 30'. After placing pro in the horizontal, you step back up and right to climb the crux. This gear will probably keep you off the ground through the hardest moves, but it would be an ugly, swinging rag doll fall. After that, there is basically no more solid gear to the top... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : The Dirty Duo (5.9)
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 21, 2012

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Comments: Hey Seth,

Did you guys re-scrub this? Last time I checked it out it was almost completely overgrown.

-D


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Snatch (5.10b PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Mar 7, 2012

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Comments: Thanks, Jim. Hope you're enjoying things down under...


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Snatch (5.10b PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Nov 29, 2011

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Comments: Just did this route again for the first time in probably 15 years, and was surprised to find the bolt on p1. Has it always been there, or was it added at some point? I ask because I have no recollection of any fixed gear from my previous ascent, but it's been awhile.

Great route, by the way!


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Beyond (5.12b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Oct 26, 2011

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Comments: I'd call it .10+ with that (^) much beta...

Just kidding. Couldn't help myself.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Gunklandia (5.7)
By: Derek Doucet When: Oct 19, 2011

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Comments: No, the Chimney is not Gunklandia Direct. It is the last pitch of Gunklandia. Gunklandia direct is a variation on the first pitch, starting about 20' of the standard start.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bone Mountain
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 30, 2011

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Comments: Paul Hansen, Dave Furman, Travis Peckham and I did a few fun routes at the Satellite Crag years ago (maybe 02' or so?). At the left end of the crag is a nice blunt arete with a few bolts which is reached by starting up a short, easy handcrack (this crack is also the start of a Mark Poulin route called "North Corner"). This is "Capybara Love", 5.9+. Just right of and below this is a steep face that shares the "Capybara Love" anchors. This is "Capybara Lust", 5.11.

At ... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bone Mountain : the Main Cliff : Family Picnic (5.7 PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 30, 2011

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Comments: Hi Chris-

It's awesome you've been getting up to Bone! I haven't been in years. Paul and I also did a great 2 pitch 5.10 just left of Family Picnic called "Fathers Day". It's adequately protected with a mix of gear (bring some small wires) and bolts, and very fun. Highly recommended. It has its own anchor on top of P1, but shares the "Family Picnic" top anchor.

Cheers,

Derek


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Private Property (5.8+)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 22, 2011

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Comments: FA: Travis Peckham, Nancy Koenig Peckham, 1999. A worthwhile route, but it still suffers from some creaky flakes and looseness in places.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Block Party (5.10a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 31, 2011

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Comments: Sounds like that rope is a bit short. I've rapped it literally dozens of times with various single 60s, and with stretch have always been able to reach with no downclimbing. Again, knot the ends!

In any case, I agree completely that a 70 is certainly a much easier option if you have one.

Even with a slightly short 60, I'd personally not bother bringing a 2nd rope. If concerned about the rap, it's easy to walk over to the Politics of Dancing anchor, rap down to the mid cliff anchor on Crimp C... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Block Party (5.10a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 29, 2011

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Comments: A much, much better route that it appears from the ground. The initial "dirty face" actually climbs very nicely, and the upper headwall is clean, sustained and superb: In the running for the nicest rock and moves on the main face, which is saying something.

A #3 camalot or equivalent is helpful but not really necessary. While splitting this in to two pitches is a reasonable option (the belay is on a comfortable ledge), like all the routes on the main face, climbing Block Party as a 175' ... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Kid Charlemagne (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 28, 2011

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Comments: Indeed. It's the lead track on the mega classic The Royal Scam.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Kid Charlemagne (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: Yeah, get back on it, Chris. I bet you just missed a hold somewhere. It's still pretty dirty after all. I actually had to argue DA up to .10a when I climbed the route this spring. He was vacillating between .8+ and .9 right after he put it up! Now THAT seemed a bit over the top...


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Kid Charlemagne (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: I think you must have missed something, Chris! There's a low .10a crux just off the ground, then it's pretty cruiser 5.9ish climbing for a few bolts before another brief crux bulge, then a bit more moderate ground to the anchor. Are you sure you're not referring to the direct start to Arms Reduction? If you do that straight up to the first bolt rather than traversing in, I could believe 5.11.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Year of the Dog (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: The climbing to reach the first anchors is .9+ish, and the crux is a one move wonder. The rest of the climbing is easier, but very worthwhile. There is a brief section of PG/PG13 5.7-5.8 climbing halfway to the midpoint rap anchor, by the way.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : War on Drugs (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: A very fun pitch, deserving of the increased popularity the Kid Charlemagne start will no doubt confer.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Year of the Dog (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: Actually, like all of the main face routes, YOD is an excellent, long single pitch with a convenient mid point rap anchor to facilitate a single rope rap descent. Why break these routes in to two pitches? Just sayin'!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Casual Observer (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 5, 2011

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Comments: Superb, highly recommended linkup:

P1 & 2: Climb Casual Observer to the top of the 2nd pitch, .10b and .11a.

P3: Thrash briefly up and right (4th / easy 5th, but watch for loose rock) to join Fastest Gun at the top of its 2nd pitch. There are several options for belay stances here, but all require care: This section of the cliff is little more than a pile of giant hollow blocks.

P4: Climb P3 of Fastest Gun, .10a

P5: Several options are available here. Possibly the best are P4 of Fastest ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Chapel Wall : The Great Escape (5.11c)
By: Derek Doucet When: May 5, 2011

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Comments: Not trying to begin a huge debate (I've never even been on the route!), but this description seems to indicate that there is a bolted "TCU crack" on the final pitch. Is there in fact an otherwise protectable bolted crack on this route? Again, not looking to start a flame-fest, just posing a simple question. Thanks!


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Great Head : Morning Glory Alcove : Corsair (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 20, 2011

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Comments: ^^Yes.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : The Slip (5.10 V1-2)
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 18, 2011

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Comments: That's an old boulder/TR problem. I have no idea of its history, but folks have climbed it on and off for years.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Hush, Mama Thrush (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 18, 2011

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Comments: Best route at Lower West? Probably so.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 18, 2011

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Comments: Hi Gabe,

No formal topos are available at the moment, but a guidebook of Vermont rock is nearing completion and will feature the Bolton area prominently. Upper Upper will certainly be included.

Upper Upper (AKA Doube Upper) West is just a bit further up Bolton Notch Road from the Upper West pulloff. You park at the obvious Preston Pond Trailhead, on the left as you're headed up the Notch Rd.

FYI, Upper Upper is often subject to peregrine nesting closures in the spring. I haven't heard whethe... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Bozeman Bullet (5.6)
By: Derek Doucet When: Feb 24, 2011

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Comments: One of the best 5.6 pitchs in the greater Keene Valley region. Great rock, cool moves, awesome position for such a short route.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Southern Hospitality p1 (5.11c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Feb 17, 2011

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Comments: ^^Agreed. IMO, P1 of Psalm 32 is probably .11b (at most). P1 of Southern Hospitality feels like solid .11+ to me. Both pitches are superb whatever the grade!


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