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Member Since: Apr 26, 2010
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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Page Improvements = 3
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All 529 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 121 | Posts 180 | Stars 137 | Ratings 86
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Paradox (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Paradox is a relatively recent addition, but that cordalette is vintage. It's actually there for Against the Grain which is a much older route, and has been in place for quite a while. Paradox really needs its own independent anchor.


Location: VT : Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : Playground (WI3-4)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: The area described here is actually The Workout Wall. The Playground is another area all together, located up a long, narrow snow gully which leaves the road essentially at the top of the Notch road on the Madonna Side.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8) : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Jan 24, 2013

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Comments: If that was the only anchoring option, a MUCH better choice would have been to belay directly off of your harness in a good, well braced position. In that case your "anchor" would have served only as a modestly tensioned back-up against the possibilty of you being pulled out of position. When working with questionable anchors, that's a much better way to go then belaying directly off the anchor. And for what it's worth, I have many days climbing on soft sandstone both in Red Rock and elsewhere, ... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Chapel Crag : The Alter Boy (5.11b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Nov 20, 2012

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Comments: I'm not sure that's the entire name originally given...fun route, definitely worth doing if you're in the area and have done the other routes of similar grade at the 82. The .12a on this mini cliff is also worthwhile.


Location: VT : Marshfield Ledge : Just for Goobs (5.7+ PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 24, 2012

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Comments: Ah, man...you spoiled my onsight attempt with the deluge of beta spray...


Location: VT
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 19, 2012

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Comments: Hey Balzano,

The summit area of Camel's Hump is one of only three areas of arctic / alpine tundra in the entire state. Please, please respect the guidelines the GMC and state naturalists have outlined and stay on the trail in these areas. Just because there is little obvious to you that might be impacted by scrambling doesn't mean it isn't there.

Cheers,

Derek


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper Upper West Bolton : Main Face : Captain's Crack (Erotic Nut... (5.7+)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: The second pitch requires very good loose rock judgment. Be extremely selective about where to place gear, as much of this pitch is hollow and loose. A 5.7 pitch for those comfortable leading 5.9.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : The Bookend (5.5 PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: See the new Peckham guidebook. This is "The 5.7 Corner". It protects very well with a standard rack. The pin mentioned above is not especially useful as lead pro, but does serve as a helpful directional if top roping from the trees. Without it, a climber falling in the crux section can pendulum back in to the left wall of the corner.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Donkey Index (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 10, 2012

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Comments: That Chimney looks like a hoot, Seth. Have you actually climbed it? I'm always trying hard not to fall in when I step back over it to build an anchor after climbing The Rose.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Donkey Index (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 9, 2012

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Comments: There's another new clip-up just right of this known as Ass Index, .10c. It features some very cool pocket pulling, and climbs a bit like good limestone. Definitely recommended. It's reminescent of Full Circle, although considerably less difficult. Start up the wide crack / corner as for Donkey Index, and continue walking 20' right along the obvious ledge to a line of bolts. This makes 4 really good routes that start from the Onceler ledge: The aforementioned Inde... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : 2-Pitch Route (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 4, 2012

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Comments: FA: Dave Furman & Shane Baron

The name stems from the fact that the route was originally envisioned going to the top of the cliff, but a key block fell out of the roof making the climbing past that point MUCH harder. The FA team's solution was to put an anchor at half height. While this makes for a fun, if short little sport route, it also led to an onslaught of jokes about the "second pitch" above the anchor, bivy sites on a 35' clip-up, etc. As for the grade, most will find it very solid at 1... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Truffle Hog (5.10b/c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: What would you give it? Trav gives it .10a or maybe .10b at most in the new book. Seemed about right to me, but YMMV, I suppose. Whatever the grade, it sure is a fun one.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Truffle Hog (5.10b/c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: Hi Chris,

In my opinion, this pitch is one of the very best at the 82, and high on my list of best moderate clip-ups anywhere. 5.10- PG. One could perhaps make it G-rated by carrying a midsize nut or two, but it is perfectly reasonable with just draws, including a couple of shoulder length rigs.

Finally, like almost all of the routes on the 82 main face, I highly recommend climbing Truffle Hog as a single, absolutely awesome 150' pitch. 15 or so draws / runners does the trick nicely.... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Mt. Colden : Trap Dike (summer) (4th)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: In reading that thread Jim, it sounds as though the object in question may actually be a pin with some tat rather than a bolt and fixed line. Still not necessary, but more easily remedied than a bolt and fixed line...


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web : Dacker Cracker (5.10c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: ...or you could do the minute and a half walk off to climbers' left.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Hurricane Crag : Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara (5.7+ PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: The runout is brief. Maybe a body length or two? The "issue" if one could even call it that, is that it's right off the belay, so any fall would have the potential to factor 2 the anchor, which is somewhat finicky to build, by the way.

In reality you're much more likely to simply land on the belay ledge. While still not good at all, this is far better than a full factor 2 on to your anchor.

I guess I'd characterize this section as requiring care and a bit of caution, but certainly n... more >>


Location: VT
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: Vermont's first rockclimbing guidebook is ready to ship in about a week. You can get them here: www.vermontrock.com/!


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : Duet (5.7)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 6, 2012

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Comments: I prefer to rap from the Duet Direct anchor all the way to the ground in 1 rap with 2 60s. This is better than stopping at the fixed anchor atop P1 for a 2nd rap because the P1 cracks are rope eaters. If you must do it in two raps, be thoughtful about how and from where you pull the ropes after the final rap, or risk stuck ropes. There always seems to be odds and ends of rope stuck in that pitch...


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Mayflower (5.10c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: A few thoughts after a couple of trips up this fine route, including one very recent ascent:

-P1 is very solid in the grade. I routinely lead considerably harder, really enjoy technical, thin face, and find this pitch rather difficult.

-P2 is also very fun, but has some large, quite hollow blocks which one climbs over and through down low, and in which it is tempting to protect. Any gear in this rock should be considered questionable. The moves past the 2 bolts are interesting and pleasant. T... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper Upper West Bolton : Wild West Wall : Milk Train (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: One of my finer route finding moments. Still not sure how I managed to get lost on a 140' face pitch...

The climbing straight up is actually really nice. It just needs another bolt or two to keep one from bouncing off the slab below.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Hush, Mama Thrush (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 22, 2012

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Comments: LOL. Just read Chris's description in more detail. I feel the "tedious, slippery moves" up the ramp are some of the coolest on the route. Different strokes, I guess!

Thanks for the heads up about the pin (which I placed in about 1997, I think), Andrea. Without it, the crux overlap will be a fairly exciting lead at the grade. It's for the best that it's gone, though. The lower edge of the crack it was in has loosened considerably over the years, and has started to sound quite hollow. It was al... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Harvest Moon (5.7+ R)
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 22, 2012

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Comments: R-rated for sure. I often see people fooling themselves placing junk pro on the initial face, but the reality is that there is little to no worthwhile gear until a horizontal out left accepts finger-sized cams at about 30'. After placing pro in the horizontal, you step back up and right to climb the crux. This gear will probably keep you off the ground through the hardest moves, but it would be an ugly, swinging rag doll fall. After that, there is basically no more solid gear to the top... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : The Dirty Duo (5.9)
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 21, 2012

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Comments: Hey Seth,

Did you guys re-scrub this? Last time I checked it out it was almost completely overgrown.

-D


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Snatch (5.10b PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Mar 7, 2012

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Comments: Thanks, Jim. Hope you're enjoying things down under...


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Snatch (5.10b PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Nov 29, 2011

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Comments: Just did this route again for the first time in probably 15 years, and was surprised to find the bolt on p1. Has it always been there, or was it added at some point? I ask because I have no recollection of any fixed gear from my previous ascent, but it's been awhile.

Great route, by the way!


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