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Member Since: Apr 26, 2010
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All (500) | Routes (5) | Areas | Photos | Comments (112) | Posts (163) | Stars (135) | Ratings (85)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Donkey Index (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 9, 2012

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Comments: There's another new clip-up just right of this known as Ass Index, .10c. It features some very cool pocket pulling, and climbs a bit like good limestone. Definitely recommended. It's reminescent of Full Circle, although considerably less difficult. Start up the wide crack / corner as for Donkey Index, and continue walking 20' right along the obvious ledge to a line of bolts. This makes 4 really good routes that start from the Onceler ledge: The aforementioned Inde... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : 2-Pitch Route (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 4, 2012

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Comments: FA: Dave Furman & Shane Baron

The name stems from the fact that the route was originally envisioned going to the top of the cliff, but a key block fell out of the roof making the climbing past that point MUCH harder. The FA team's solution was to put an anchor at half height. While this makes for a fun, if short little sport route, it also led to an onslaught of jokes about the "second pitch" above the anchor, bivy sites on a 35' clip-up, etc. As for the grade, most will find it very solid at 1... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Truffle Hog (5.10b/c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: What would you give it? Trav gives it .10a or maybe .10b at most in the new book. Seemed about right to me, but YMMV, I suppose. Whatever the grade, it sure is a fun one.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Truffle Hog (5.10b/c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: Hi Chris,

In my opinion, this pitch is one of the very best at the 82, and high on my list of best moderate clip-ups anywhere. 5.10- PG. One could perhaps make it G-rated by carrying a midsize nut or two, but it is perfectly reasonable with just draws, including a couple of shoulder length rigs.

Finally, like almost all of the routes on the 82 main face, I highly recommend climbing Truffle Hog as a single, absolutely awesome 150' pitch. 15 or so draws / runners does the trick nicely.... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Mt. Colden : Trap Dike (summer) (4th)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: In reading that thread Jim, it sounds as though the object in question may actually be a pin with some tat rather than a bolt and fixed line. Still not necessary, but more easily remedied than a bolt and fixed line...


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web : Dacker Cracker (5.10c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: ...or you could do the minute and a half walk off to climbers' left.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Hurricane Crag : Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara (5.7+ PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: The runout is brief. Maybe a body length or two? The "issue" if one could even call it that, is that it's right off the belay, so any fall would have the potential to factor 2 the anchor, which is somewhat finicky to build, by the way.

In reality you're much more likely to simply land on the belay ledge. While still not good at all, this is far better than a full factor 2 on to your anchor.

I guess I'd characterize this section as requiring care and a bit of caution, but certainly n... more >>


Location: VT
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: Vermont's first rockclimbing guidebook is ready to ship in about a week. You can get them here: www.vermontrock.com/!


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : Duet (5.7)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 6, 2012

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Comments: I prefer to rap from the Duet Direct anchor all the way to the ground in 1 rap with 2 60s. This is better than stopping at the fixed anchor atop P1 for a 2nd rap because the P1 cracks are rope eaters. If you must do it in two raps, be thoughtful about how and from where you pull the ropes after the final rap, or risk stuck ropes. There always seems to be odds and ends of rope stuck in that pitch...


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Mayflower (5.10c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: A few thoughts after a couple of trips up this fine route, including one very recent ascent:

-P1 is very solid in the grade. I routinely lead considerably harder, really enjoy technical, thin face, and find this pitch rather difficult.

-P2 is also very fun, but has some large, quite hollow blocks which one climbs over and through down low, and in which it is tempting to protect. Any gear in this rock should be considered questionable. The moves past the 2 bolts are interesting and pleasant. T... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper Upper West Bolton : Wild West Wall : Milk Train (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: One of my finer route finding moments. Still not sure how I managed to get lost on a 140' face pitch...

The climbing straight up is actually really nice. It just needs another bolt or two to keep one from bouncing off the slab below.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Hush, Mama Thrush (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 22, 2012

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Comments: LOL. Just read Chris's description in more detail. I feel the "tedious, slippery moves" up the ramp are some of the coolest on the route. Different strokes, I guess!

Thanks for the heads up about the pin (which I placed in about 1997, I think), Andrea. Without it, the crux overlap will be a fairly exciting lead at the grade. It's for the best that it's gone, though. The lower edge of the crack it was in has loosened considerably over the years, and has started to sound quite hollow. It was al... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Harvest Moon (5.7+ R)
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 22, 2012

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Comments: R-rated for sure. I often see people fooling themselves placing junk pro on the initial face, but the reality is that there is little to no worthwhile gear until a horizontal out left accepts finger-sized cams at about 30'. After placing pro in the horizontal, you step back up and right to climb the crux. This gear will probably keep you off the ground through the hardest moves, but it would be an ugly, swinging rag doll fall. After that, there is basically no more solid gear to the top... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : The Dirty Duo (5.9)
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 21, 2012

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Comments: Hey Seth,

Did you guys re-scrub this? Last time I checked it out it was almost completely overgrown.

-D


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Snatch (5.10b PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Mar 7, 2012

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Comments: Thanks, Jim. Hope you're enjoying things down under...


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Snatch (5.10b PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Nov 29, 2011

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Comments: Just did this route again for the first time in probably 15 years, and was surprised to find the bolt on p1. Has it always been there, or was it added at some point? I ask because I have no recollection of any fixed gear from my previous ascent, but it's been awhile.

Great route, by the way!


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Beyond (5.12b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Oct 26, 2011

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Comments: I'd call it .10+ with that (^) much beta...

Just kidding. Couldn't help myself.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Gunklandia (5.7)
By: Derek Doucet When: Oct 19, 2011

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Comments: No, the Chimney is not Gunklandia Direct. It is the last pitch of Gunklandia. Gunklandia direct is a variation on the first pitch, starting about 20' of the standard start.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bone Mountain
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 30, 2011

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Comments: Paul Hansen, Dave Furman, Travis Peckham and I did a few fun routes at the Satellite Crag years ago (maybe 02' or so?). At the left end of the crag is a nice blunt arete with a few bolts which is reached by starting up a short, easy handcrack (this crack is also the start of a Mark Poulin route called "North Corner"). This is "Capybara Love", 5.9+. Just right of and below this is a steep face that shares the "Capybara Love" anchors. This is "Capybara Lust", 5.11.

At ... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bone Mountain : the Main Cliff : Family Picnic (5.7 PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 30, 2011

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Comments: Hi Chris-

It's awesome you've been getting up to Bone! I haven't been in years. Paul and I also did a great 2 pitch 5.10 just left of Family Picnic called "Fathers Day". It's adequately protected with a mix of gear (bring some small wires) and bolts, and very fun. Highly recommended. It has its own anchor on top of P1, but shares the "Family Picnic" top anchor.

Cheers,

Derek


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Private Property (5.8+)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 22, 2011

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Comments: FA: Travis Peckham, Nancy Koenig Peckham, 1999. A worthwhile route, but it still suffers from some creaky flakes and looseness in places.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Block Party (5.10a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 31, 2011

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Comments: Sounds like that rope is a bit short. I've rapped it literally dozens of times with various single 60s, and with stretch have always been able to reach with no downclimbing. Again, knot the ends!

In any case, I agree completely that a 70 is certainly a much easier option if you have one.

Even with a slightly short 60, I'd personally not bother bringing a 2nd rope. If concerned about the rap, it's easy to walk over to the Politics of Dancing anchor, rap down to the mid cliff anchor on Crimp C... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Block Party (5.10a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 29, 2011

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Comments: A much, much better route that it appears from the ground. The initial "dirty face" actually climbs very nicely, and the upper headwall is clean, sustained and superb: In the running for the nicest rock and moves on the main face, which is saying something.

A #3 camalot or equivalent is helpful but not really necessary. While splitting this in to two pitches is a reasonable option (the belay is on a comfortable ledge), like all the routes on the main face, climbing Block Party as a 175' ... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Kid Charlemagne (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 28, 2011

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Comments: Indeed. It's the lead track on the mega classic The Royal Scam.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Kid Charlemagne (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: Yeah, get back on it, Chris. I bet you just missed a hold somewhere. It's still pretty dirty after all. I actually had to argue DA up to .10a when I climbed the route this spring. He was vacillating between .8+ and .9 right after he put it up! Now THAT seemed a bit over the top...


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