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Member Since: Apr 26, 2010
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 555 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 132 | Posts 191 | Stars 139 | Ratings 87
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Cooney-Norton (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: A fantastic and under appreciated pitch. With Cosmopolitan Wall next door, one can take in two of Poko's best 5.10 pitches from the same starting ledge. Highly recommended. I'm not sure why the OP proposed a PG13 protection rating. Cooney Norton protects very well. I'd say PG bordering on G, though to be fair the bolt protecting the final moves has definitely seen better days.


Location: VT : Marshfield Ledge : Requim for a Dreamer (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 24, 2013

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Comments: P1 is a fine, quick way to round out a day of Marshfield cragging. I haven't ventured any higher, so my comments only pertain to the first 150' of the route which offers high quality "flab" climbing: It's not really slab as there are no real friction moves, but it's pretty low-angle to be called face climbing. So, "face" combined with "slab"= "flab".

In any event, nice rock, nice position, and well protected as low angle ground-up routes go. The sharp left turn after the first grassy ledge is ... more >>


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: While it's true that the clean slab above Kurt's has no pro, it's also true that it isn't even 5th class...


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : North End : The Rose (5.10a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: Hey Matt,

I couldn't agree more with your assessment of both of those anchors. Well intentioned, I'm sure, but unfortunately poorly executed and thoroughly unnecessary. I imagine the motivation to remove the anchor on the tree above the Thorn was to protect the tree itself which is commendable. However the threat to that tree is erosion/soil compaction and to TR (which from observation I'd say constitutes the vast majority of the traffic on the Thorn) one still has to walk right past the tree t... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Beyond (5.12b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Hey Colin,

I haven't been on any of them recently, but as I recall, Beyond and WYD are so different in style that comparing them is pretty difficult.

Regarding WYD vs.the Doggfather, yes, I think the Doggfather is significantly harder than WYD. IMO, considered as an isolated boulder problem, the Doggfather crux is much more difficult than anything on WYD. It involves more moves and is much more powerful. This perspective could well be because of my personal weaknesses and strengths of course.... more >>


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Yikes! Glad you and anyone else who might have been around is OK!

Regarding the Greene guide's advice to rap off, next time you go, disregard it entirely. The pitches above the Finger are for the most part high quality, provided you get the route finding right.

The boulder-problem pitch (next after the Finger) is OK, if not great, and certainly not a reason to retreat. It's actually pretty fun.

The pitch after the boulder problem is fantastic, with a great combination of delicate face and wi... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Lower Tier : Paradox (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 21, 2013

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Comments: Paradox now has an independent anchor. To preserve the character of the top-out while still minimizing rope wear and providing a smooth pull, it was placed high on the wall above the finishing ledge.

If this thing is 5.11, it's the easiest 5.11 in Bolton.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Cosmopolitan Wall (5.10c PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 14, 2013

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Comments: A great pitch. Sustained and engaging throughout. This and its neighbor to the left (Cooney-Norton) are both excellent, mid-range 5.10 pitches that exemplify many of Poko's defining features: discontinuous thin cracks, improbable face climbing, and interesting gear placements requiring some poise and attention. The final bolt shared by both routes is junk, by the way. It's rusty, shallow, and sports and old SMC hanger.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : ... : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 12, 2013

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Comments: Hey, I was right next to you on Fastest Gun when this was taken!


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Rapid Transit (5.10a/b PG13) : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: Absolutely fantastic shot. 5 stars on the 3 star scale!


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : North End : The Rose (5.10a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 5, 2013

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Comments: *SPOILER ALERT* Rather specific gear beta below...

The meat of the climb takes #3 camalot sized gear. How many depends on your comfort level with cupped hands. A small-medium sized wire is useful for the start, and a larger nut or two is nice at 2/3 height. The top takes a #4 camalot sized piece, and a #1 camalot can be placed deep in the crack at the very exit if desired. You'll probably want a #2 camalot sized piece on the rack as well.

There is no f... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Lower Tier : Paradox (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Paradox is a relatively recent addition, but that cordalette is vintage. It's actually there for Against the Grain which is a much older route, and has been in place for quite a while. Paradox really needs its own independent anchor.


Location: VT : * Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 06 - The Playground Area : Playground (WI3-4)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: The area described here is actually The Workout Wall. The Playground is another area all together, located up a long, narrow snow gully which leaves the road essentially at the top of the Notch road on the Madonna Side.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8) : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Jan 24, 2013

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Comments: If that was the only anchoring option, a MUCH better choice would have been to belay directly off of your harness in a good, well braced position. In that case your "anchor" would have served only as a modestly tensioned back-up against the possibilty of you being pulled out of position. When working with questionable anchors, that's a much better way to go then belaying directly off the anchor. And for what it's worth, I have many days climbing on soft sandstone both in Red Rock and elsewhere, ... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Chapel Crag : The Alter Boy (5.11b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Nov 20, 2012

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Comments: I'm not sure that's the entire name originally given...fun route, definitely worth doing if you're in the area and have done the other routes of similar grade at the 82. The .12a on this mini cliff is also worthwhile.


Location: VT : Marshfield Ledge : Just for Goobs (5.7+ PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 24, 2012

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Comments: Ah, man...you spoiled my onsight attempt with the deluge of beta spray...


Location: VT
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 19, 2012

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Comments: Hey Balzano,

The summit area of Camel's Hump is one of only three areas of arctic / alpine tundra in the entire state. Please, please respect the guidelines the GMC and state naturalists have outlined and stay on the trail in these areas. Just because there is little obvious to you that might be impacted by scrambling doesn't mean it isn't there.

Cheers,

Derek


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper Upper West Bolton : Main Face : Captain's Crack (Erotic Nut... (5.7+)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: The second pitch requires very good loose rock judgment. Be extremely selective about where to place gear, as much of this pitch is hollow and loose. A 5.7 pitch for those comfortable leading 5.9.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Lower Tier : The Bookend (5.5 PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: See the new Peckham guidebook. This is "The 5.7 Corner". It protects very well with a standard rack. The pin mentioned above is not especially useful as lead pro, but does serve as a helpful directional if top roping from the trees. Without it, a climber falling in the crux section can pendulum back in to the left wall of the corner.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : North End : Donkey Index (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 10, 2012

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Comments: That Chimney looks like a hoot, Seth. Have you actually climbed it? I'm always trying hard not to fall in when I step back over it to build an anchor after climbing The Rose.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : North End : Donkey Index (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 9, 2012

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Comments: There's another new clip-up just right of this known as Ass Index, .10c. It features some very cool pocket pulling, and climbs a bit like good limestone. Definitely recommended. It's reminescent of Full Circle, although considerably less difficult. Start up the wide crack / corner as for Donkey Index, and continue walking 20' right along the obvious ledge to a line of bolts. This makes 4 really good routes that start from the Onceler ledge: The aforementioned Inde... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : 2-Pitch Route (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 4, 2012

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Comments: FA: Dave Furman & Shane Baron

The name stems from the fact that the route was originally envisioned going to the top of the cliff, but a key block fell out of the roof making the climbing past that point MUCH harder. The FA team's solution was to put an anchor at half height. While this makes for a fun, if short little sport route, it also led to an onslaught of jokes about the "second pitch" above the anchor, bivy sites on a 35' clip-up, etc. As for the grade, most will find it very solid at 1... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Truffle Hog (5.10b/c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: What would you give it? Trav gives it .10a or maybe .10b at most in the new book. Seemed about right to me, but YMMV, I suppose. Whatever the grade, it sure is a fun one.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Truffle Hog (5.10b/c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: Hi Chris,

In my opinion, this pitch is one of the very best at the 82, and high on my list of best moderate clip-ups anywhere. 5.10- PG. One could perhaps make it G-rated by carrying a midsize nut or two, but it is perfectly reasonable with just draws, including a couple of shoulder length rigs.

Finally, like almost all of the routes on the 82 main face, I highly recommend climbing Truffle Hog as a single, absolutely awesome 150' pitch. 15 or so draws / runners does the trick nicely.... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Mt. Colden : Trap Dike (summer) (4th)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: In reading that thread Jim, it sounds as though the object in question may actually be a pin with some tat rather than a bolt and fixed line. Still not necessary, but more easily remedied than a bolt and fixed line...


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