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Member Since: Apr 26, 2010
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
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Contributions


All 539 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 125 | Posts 186 | Stars 137 | Ratings 86
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Carolina In My Mind (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: We had a similar experience. The moves up to the crux bulge were pleasant face climbing, but neither my partner or I could pull the bulge, which is to put it mildly, rather unusual at the reported grade. We also scoped it on rappel, and there didn't appear to be anything we were missing. There is an obvious rock scar below and left of the bolt on the bulge which had us wondering if something has broken. If not, I predict the consensus grade may creep upwards a bit...


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Arętenophobia (5.10c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: A very nice pitch! The easy runout at the top could be protected with a yellow Mastercam or a yellow Camalot if desired. The climbing is maybe 5.5 in this section so I wouldn't be overly concerned if you don't have a rack with you.

While the route itself is thoughtfully bolted, the anchor had only two quick- links (as of 8.10) and their orientation made the pull on rappel a real rope twister. We left two carabiners there to reorient the rope and eliminate this problem. They are not booty!

Th... more >>


Location: VT : Marshfield Ledge : Requim for a Dreamer (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Your description of a tall left facing corner high on the right side of the cliff sounds like the final pitch of what is now Marshfield Corners. It's a superb pitch for sure.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Lost Chance aka The Natural... (5.10)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 1, 2014

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Comments: Hey Jim,

Good point. I hadn't considered self-selection bias. I tend to offer an opinion on the grades of all routes I comment on, whether I agree or disagree with the one originally assigned. I was working under the assumption that others did the same, but as you rightly point out, there's no real basis for such an assumption. I stand corrected!

Cheers,

Derek


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: I agree with Paul's comment above. The cruxes are quite reasonably protected, but there are certainly numerous "don't fall" moments on easier (.9+ sounds about right) terrain. There are also numerous pins in varying states of decay and they are frequently impossible to back up. How good are they? No way to tell, so best not to fall on them. There are a couple of spots where a blown pin would have very serious consequences. As with all Cannon routes, questionable rock abounds as well. Particularl... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Lost Chance aka The Natural... (5.10)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: Interesting, Jon. I actually feel like posters should initially assign whatever grade they feel appropriate and then let the consensus evolve. However wide a net guidebook authors cast (and Jim and Jeremy definitely worked hard at this)to assign grades, routes change, opinions vary, and so on. I think a forum like this one has the potential to draw from a wider cross section of the community and is ideally suited to consensus building. Of course this theory only holds up if sufficient numbers of... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Hurricane Crag : Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara (5.7+ PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Just corresponded with Richard Parker. Here's what he had to say:

"Yes, Bara Bara or Quad…a great route. Hard to remember what gear went where in those days but I can say that we would have placed a pin or two without any qualms if it was required to make a pitch R as opposed to X. Seems like the knife blade rings a bell and your idea makes perfect sense to me, although I simply do not recall…we were in that transition from pins to stoppers and hexes. Geoff and I both learned first with pin... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Cooney-Norton (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: lol, Nick. Further confirmation that you and I have very different tastes in routes. This thing is superb in my opinion. To each their own!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Gamesmanship (5.8+)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: Public Service Announcement:

As of 6/10/14, there are two softball sized but square loose rocks 2/3s of the way up the second pitch. They are almost completely detached, and one is covered with chalk. Both are directly in the line of ascent, and could even conceivably be dislodged by rope movement. I wasn't able to trundle them for fear of hitting others in the area at the time, and so had to settle for avoiding them and placing gear to keep the rope away from them. If the area is clear, they c... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Lost Chance aka The Natural... (5.10)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: To avoid confusion, a point of clarification might be in order: The route described here is often referred to as The Natural, though as I understand it that may not be the name given by the FA team. It is useful however, since there is a full length route over on the slabs called Last Chance.


Location: VT : Marshfield Ledge : Just for Goobs (5.7+ PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: Hey Nate,

Is this route not closed for Peregrine nesting at the moment?


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : The Rose (5.10a)
By: Derek Doucet When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: Hey Delam-

Your comment is unusual in the endless bolting debate: A well reasoned perspective offered without vitriol or drama. Thanks for that. While I disagree, I do appreciate your thoughtful perspective.

With that said, the Chockstone anchor comparison is an apples and oranges comparison in my opinion. There is no viable alternative on that ledge anymore. There is a perfectly reasonable one atop the Rose, and it doesn't necessitate any damage to a tree. There's a small tree growing directl... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : The Rose (5.10a)
By: Derek Doucet When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: Hopefully someone will finish the job. The sooner the better, in my opinion.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Challenger (5.10d PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 18, 2014

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Comments: A very nice route. Well protected with small gear, including RPs. The only exception is a brief moment on P1, stemming to gain the stance below the roof. A fall here would be a possible ankle breaker. The roof itself is very well protected.

As for the route as a whole, note that "well protected" doesn't mean gear over one's head anywhere one wishes. There is certainly real climbing above pro. A competent 5.10 leader with a reasonable lead head and adequate small pro should be fine.

The grade... more >>


Location: Eastern States : The best cracks of the nort... : Post : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: Marshfield Corners P3. That upper corner visible above the roof is as good as Recompense but steeper and more sustained. The whole route is superb, actually.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mt. Willey
By: Derek Doucet When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: There's a straightforward walk-off climber's left of the ice.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: Steep and enjoyable. I gave it 2 stars. P1, the first half of P2, and P3 are all very good, with P3 being the real stand-out with excellent jamming and stemming through imposingly steep terrain. It's a 4-star pitch for sure. The crux p4 is essentially 10-12' of well protected, challenging climbing before easing off to easy rambling. Not an especially interesting pitch. P5 is OK, and certainly worth climbing.

I'd have called it a 3-star route except for the rock quality on the 2nd half of P2. I... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Celtic Cracks (5.10a/b R)
By: Derek Doucet When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: A really fun adventure route.

Some notes:

P1: A decent, fun pitch, and not as mossy as I'd expected. 5.9

P2: The only junk pitch on the route, but at least it gets you over to the main corner system. Belay on finger sized cams on the right, and a #4 on the left if desired.

P3: Starts scruffy but becomes a nice 5.9 or 9+ corner to a small stance. The anchor here takes a bit of fiddling but can be made bomber.

P4: The Shamrock Roof. Even with its sometimes sandy, sometimes loose rock... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Cooney-Norton (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: A fantastic and under appreciated pitch. With Cosmopolitan Wall next door, one can take in two of Poko's best 5.10 pitches from the same starting ledge. Highly recommended. I'm not sure why the OP proposed a PG13 protection rating. Cooney Norton protects very well. I'd say PG bordering on G, though to be fair the bolt protecting the final moves has definitely seen better days.


Location: VT : Marshfield Ledge : Requim for a Dreamer (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 24, 2013

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Comments: P1 is a fine, quick way to round out a day of Marshfield cragging. I haven't ventured any higher, so my comments only pertain to the first 150' of the route which offers high quality "flab" climbing: It's not really slab as there are no real friction moves, but it's pretty low-angle to be called face climbing. So, "face" combined with "slab"= "flab".

In any event, nice rock, nice position, and well protected as low angle ground-up routes go. The sharp left turn after the first grassy ledge is ... more >>


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: While it's true that the clean slab above Kurt's has no pro, it's also true that it isn't even 5th class...


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : The Rose (5.10a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: Hey Matt,

I couldn't agree more with your assessment of both of those anchors. Well intentioned, I'm sure, but unfortunately poorly executed and thoroughly unnecessary. I imagine the motivation to remove the anchor on the tree above the Thorn was to protect the tree itself which is commendable. However the threat to that tree is erosion/soil compaction and to TR (which from observation I'd say constitutes the vast majority of the traffic on the Thorn) one still has to walk right past the tree t... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Beyond (5.12b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Hey Colin,

I haven't been on any of them recently, but as I recall, Beyond and WYD are so different in style that comparing them is pretty difficult.

Regarding WYD vs.the Doggfather, yes, I think the Doggfather is significantly harder than WYD. IMO, considered as an isolated boulder problem, the Doggfather crux is much more difficult than anything on WYD. It involves more moves and is much more powerful. This perspective could well be because of my personal weaknesses and strengths of course.... more >>


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Yikes! Glad you and anyone else who might have been around is OK!

Regarding the Greene guide's advice to rap off, next time you go, disregard it entirely. The pitches above the Finger are for the most part high quality, provided you get the route finding right.

The boulder-problem pitch (next after the Finger) is OK, if not great, and certainly not a reason to retreat. It's actually pretty fun.

The pitch after the boulder problem is fantastic, with a great combination of delicate face and wi... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Paradox (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 21, 2013

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Comments: Paradox now has an independent anchor. To preserve the character of the top-out while still minimizing rope wear and providing a smooth pull, it was placed high on the wall above the finishing ledge.

If this thing is 5.11, it's the easiest 5.11 in Bolton.


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