Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Apr 26, 2010
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Derek Doucet


Point Rank: # 2,831
Total Points: 161
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Derek Doucet been climbing?










Contributions


All (496) | Routes (5) | Areas | Photos | Comments (112) | Posts (161) | Stars (134) | Ratings (84)
Page 1 of 20.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Bilateral symmetry

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13 (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton

Jul 21, 2013

Grapes of Wrath

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c (3)

Trad, 1 pitch, 90'

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Jul 10, 2010

Crimp Chimp

5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13 (5)

Trad, 1 pitch, 160'

VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag

Jun 13, 2010

Ragtime

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13 (2)

Trad, 3 pitches, 225'

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Jun 10, 2010

La Spirale

5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c PG13 (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 85'

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Jun 9, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Challenger (5.10d PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: 7 hours ago

view comment >>
Comments: A very nice route. Well protected with small gear, including RPs. The only exception is a brief moment on P1, stemming to gain the stance below the roof. A fall here would be a possible ankle breaker. The roof itself is very well protected. Note that "well protected" doesn't mean gear over one's head anywhere one wishes. There is certainly real climbing above pro. A competent 5.10 leader with a reasonable lead head and adequate small pro should be fine. The grades of the pitches felt a bit off t... more >>


Location: Eastern States : The best cracks of the nort... : Post : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Jan 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Marshfield Corners P3. That upper corner visible above the roof is as good as Recompense but steeper and more sustained. The whole route is superb, actually.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mt. Willey
By: Derek Doucet When: Dec 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There's a straightforward walk-off climber's left of the ice.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Nov 6, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Steep and enjoyable. I gave it 2 stars. P1, the first half of P2, and P3 are all very good, with P3 being the real stand-out with excellent jamming and stemming through imposingly steep terrain. It's a 4-star pitch for sure. The crux p4 is essentially 10-12' of well protected, challenging climbing before easing off to easy rambling. Not an especially interesting pitch. P5 is OK, and certainly worth climbing.

I'd have called it a 3-star route except for the rock quality on the 2nd half of P2. I... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Celtic Cracks (5.10a/b R)
By: Derek Doucet When: Oct 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A really fun adventure route.

Some notes:

P1: A decent, fun pitch, and not as mossy as I'd expected. 5.9

P2: The only junk pitch on the route, but at least it gets you over to the main corner system. Belay on finger sized cams on the right, and a #4 on the left if desired.

P3: Starts scruffy but becomes a nice 5.9 or 9+ corner to a small stance. The anchor here takes a bit of fiddling but can be made bomber.

P4: The Shamrock Roof. Even with its sometimes sandy, sometimes loose rock... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Cooney-Norton (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A fantastic and under appreciated pitch. With Cosmopolitan Wall next door, one can take in two of Poko's best 5.10 pitches from the same starting ledge. Highly recommended. I'm not sure why the OP proposed a PG13 protection rating. Cooney Norton protects very well. I'd say PG bordering on G, though to be fair the bolt protecting the final moves has definitely seen better days.


Location: VT : Marshfield Ledge : Requim for a Dreamer (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: P1 is a fine, quick way to round out a day of Marshfield cragging. I haven't ventured any higher, so my comments only pertain to the first 150' of the route which offers high quality "flab" climbing: It's not really slab as there are no real friction moves, but it's pretty low-angle to be called face climbing. So, "face" combined with "slab"= "flab".

In any event, nice rock, nice position, and well protected as low angle ground-up routes go. The sharp left turn after the first grassy ledge is ... more >>


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: While it's true that the clean slab above Kurt's has no pro, it's also true that it isn't even 5th class...


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : The Rose (5.10a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Matt,

I couldn't agree more with your assessment of both of those anchors. Well intentioned, I'm sure, but unfortunately poorly executed and thoroughly unnecessary. I imagine the motivation to remove the anchor on the tree above the Thorn was to protect the tree itself which is commendable. However the threat to that tree is erosion/soil compaction and to TR (which from observation I'd say constitutes the vast majority of the traffic on the Thorn) one still has to walk right past the tree t... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Beyond (5.12b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Colin,

I haven't been on any of them recently, but as I recall, Beyond and WYD are so different in style that comparing them is pretty difficult.

Regarding WYD vs.the Doggfather, yes, I think the Doggfather is significantly harder than WYD. IMO, considered as an isolated boulder problem, the Doggfather crux is much more difficult than anything on WYD. It involves more moves and is much more powerful. This perspective could well be because of my personal weaknesses and strengths of course.... more >>


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 29, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yikes! Glad you and anyone else who might have been around is OK!

Regarding the Greene guide's advice to rap off, next time you go, disregard it entirely. The pitches above the Finger are for the most part high quality, provided you get the route finding right.

The boulder-problem pitch (next after the Finger) is OK, if not great, and certainly not a reason to retreat. It's actually pretty fun.

The pitch after the boulder problem is fantastic, with a great combination of delicate face and wi... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Paradox (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Paradox now has an independent anchor. To preserve the character of the top-out while still minimizing rope wear and providing a smooth pull, it was placed high on the wall above the finishing ledge.

If this thing is 5.11, it's the easiest 5.11 in Bolton.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Cosmopolitan Wall (5.10c PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 14, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A great pitch. Sustained and engaging throughout. This and its neighbor to the left (Cooney-Norton) are both excellent, mid-range 5.10 pitches that exemplify many of Poko's defining features: discontinuous thin cracks, improbable face climbing, and interesting gear placements requiring some poise and attention. The final bolt shared by both routes is junk, by the way. It's rusty, shallow, and sports and old SMC hanger.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : ... : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Hey, I was right next to you on Fastest Gun when this was taken!


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Rapid Transit (5.10a/b PG13) : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Absolutely fantastic shot. 5 stars on the 3 star scale!


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : The Rose (5.10a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: *SPOILER ALERT* Rather specific gear beta below...

The meat of the climb takes #3 camalot sized gear. How many depends on your comfort level with cupped hands. A small-medium sized wire is useful for the start, and a larger nut or two is nice at 2/3 height. The top takes a #4 camalot sized piece, and a #1 camalot can be placed deep in the crack at the very exit if desired. You'll probably want a #2 camalot sized piece on the rack as well.

There is no f... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Paradox (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: May 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Paradox is a relatively recent addition, but that cordalette is vintage. It's actually there for Against the Grain which is a much older route, and has been in place for quite a while. Paradox really needs its own independent anchor.


Location: VT : Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : Playground (WI3-4)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jan 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The area described here is actually The Workout Wall. The Playground is another area all together, located up a long, narrow snow gully which leaves the road essentially at the top of the Notch road on the Madonna Side.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8) : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Jan 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: If that was the only anchoring option, a MUCH better choice would have been to belay directly off of your harness in a good, well braced position. In that case your "anchor" would have served only as a modestly tensioned back-up against the possibilty of you being pulled out of position. When working with questionable anchors, that's a much better way to go then belaying directly off the anchor. And for what it's worth, I have many days climbing on soft sandstone both in Red Rock and elsewhere, ... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Chapel Crag : The Alter Boy (5.11b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Nov 20, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I'm not sure that's the entire name originally given...fun route, definitely worth doing if you're in the area and have done the other routes of similar grade at the 82. The .12a on this mini cliff is also worthwhile.


Page 1 of 20.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>