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Member Since: Apr 26, 2010
Last Visit: 54 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 2,793
Total Points: 179
Last Year: 24
Last 30 Days: 4
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Derek Doucet been climbing?










Contributions


All 545 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 129 | Posts 188 | Stars 137 | Ratings 86
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Bilateral symmetry

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

VT : Bolton Area : ... : Lower Tier

Jul 21, 2013

Grapes of Wrath

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c (4)

Trad, 1 pitch, 90'

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Jul 10, 2010

Crimp Chimp

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 (7)

Trad, 1 pitch, 160'

VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag

Jun 13, 2010

Ragtime

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 (2)

Trad, 3 pitches, 225'

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Jun 10, 2010

La Spirale

5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 85'

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Jun 9, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Alias Wall : Carolina In My Mind (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: Huh. Either we all missed something or you guys are climbing waaaay harder than you think! I'll go back and have another look for sure.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Alias Wall : Carolina In My Mind (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: No worries! Maybe Trav, Seth, Derrek and I just missed something. Stranger things have happened!


Location: VT : Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : Elephant's head gully (WI3-)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: Belaying at the bolts as mentioned in the description above is a terrible idea. The bolted belay, while at a very comfortable ledge, is squarely in the crosshairs of ice fall from a leader on P2. Ice comes zooming down the slab, launches off the initial steep step, and frequently peppers the stance. A much safer alternative is to belay from screws, either a bit lower and the far left side of the gully, or a bit higher. Either option is far more sheltered from ice fall, and both feature comfortab... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Upper Tier - Right End : Mal Bouche (5.12-)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Where are these "hard 5.11 moves" of which you speak??? Not between the ground and the anchor, that's for sure!


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Alias Wall : Carolina In My Mind (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: We had a similar experience. The moves up to the crux bulge were pleasant face climbing, but neither my partner or I could pull the bulge, which is to put it mildly, rather unusual at the reported grade. We also scoped it on rappel, and there didn't appear to be anything we were missing. There is an obvious rock scar below and left of the bolt on the bulge which had us wondering if something has broken. If not, I predict the consensus grade may creep upwards a bit...


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Alias Wall : Arętenophobia (5.10c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: A very nice pitch! The easy runout at the top could be protected with a yellow Mastercam or a yellow Camalot if desired. The climbing is maybe 5.5 in this section so I wouldn't be overly concerned if you don't have a rack with you.

While the route itself is thoughtfully bolted, the anchor had only two quick- links (as of 8.10) and their orientation made the pull on rappel a real rope twister. We left two carabiners there to reorient the rope and eliminate this problem. They are not booty!

Th... more >>


Location: VT : Marshfield Ledge : Requim for a Dreamer (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Your description of a tall left facing corner high on the right side of the cliff sounds like the final pitch of what is now Marshfield Corners. It's a superb pitch for sure.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Lost Chance aka The Natural... (5.10)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 1, 2014

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Comments: Hey Jim,

Good point. I hadn't considered self-selection bias. I tend to offer an opinion on the grades of all routes I comment on, whether I agree or disagree with the one originally assigned. I was working under the assumption that others did the same, but as you rightly point out, there's no real basis for such an assumption. I stand corrected!

Cheers,

Derek


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: I agree with Paul's comment above. The cruxes are quite reasonably protected, but there are certainly numerous "don't fall" moments on easier (.9+ sounds about right) terrain. There are also numerous pins in varying states of decay and they are frequently impossible to back up. How good are they? No way to tell, so best not to fall on them. There are a couple of spots where a blown pin would have very serious consequences. As with all Cannon routes, questionable rock abounds as well. Particularl... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Lost Chance aka The Natural... (5.10)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: Interesting, Jon. I actually feel like posters should initially assign whatever grade they feel appropriate and then let the consensus evolve. However wide a net guidebook authors cast (and Jim and Jeremy definitely worked hard at this)to assign grades, routes change, opinions vary, and so on. I think a forum like this one has the potential to draw from a wider cross section of the community and is ideally suited to consensus building. Of course this theory only holds up if sufficient numbers of... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Hurricane Crag : Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara (5.7+ PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Just corresponded with Richard Parker. Here's what he had to say:

"Yes, Bara Bara or Quad…a great route. Hard to remember what gear went where in those days but I can say that we would have placed a pin or two without any qualms if it was required to make a pitch R as opposed to X. Seems like the knife blade rings a bell and your idea makes perfect sense to me, although I simply do not recall…we were in that transition from pins to stoppers and hexes. Geoff and I both learned first with pin... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Cooney-Norton (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: lol, Nick. Further confirmation that you and I have very different tastes in routes. This thing is superb in my opinion. To each their own!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Gamesmanship (5.8+)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: Public Service Announcement:

As of 6/10/14, there are two softball sized but square loose rocks 2/3s of the way up the second pitch. They are almost completely detached, and one is covered with chalk. Both are directly in the line of ascent, and could even conceivably be dislodged by rope movement. I wasn't able to trundle them for fear of hitting others in the area at the time, and so had to settle for avoiding them and placing gear to keep the rope away from them. If the area is clear, they c... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Lost Chance aka The Natural... (5.10)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: To avoid confusion, a point of clarification might be in order: The route described here is often referred to as The Natural, though as I understand it that may not be the name given by the FA team. It is useful however, since there is a full length route over on the slabs called Last Chance.


Location: VT : Marshfield Ledge : Just for Goobs (5.7+ PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: Hey Nate,

Is this route not closed for Peregrine nesting at the moment?


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : North End : The Rose (5.10a)
By: Derek Doucet When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: Hey Delam-

Your comment is unusual in the endless bolting debate: A well reasoned perspective offered without vitriol or drama. Thanks for that. While I disagree, I do appreciate your thoughtful perspective.

With that said, the Chockstone anchor comparison is an apples and oranges comparison in my opinion. There is no viable alternative on that ledge anymore. There is a perfectly reasonable one atop the Rose, and it doesn't necessitate any damage to a tree. There's a small tree growing directl... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : North End : The Rose (5.10a)
By: Derek Doucet When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: Hopefully someone will finish the job. The sooner the better, in my opinion.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Challenger (5.10d PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 18, 2014

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Comments: A very nice route. Well protected with small gear, including RPs. The only exception is a brief moment on P1, stemming to gain the stance below the roof. A fall here would be a possible ankle breaker. The roof itself is very well protected.

As for the route as a whole, note that "well protected" doesn't mean gear over one's head anywhere one wishes. There is certainly real climbing above pro. A competent 5.10 leader with a reasonable lead head and adequate small pro should be fine.

The grade... more >>


Location: Eastern States : The best cracks of the nort... : Post : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: Marshfield Corners P3. That upper corner visible above the roof is as good as Recompense but steeper and more sustained. The whole route is superb, actually.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mt. Willey
By: Derek Doucet When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: There's a straightforward walk-off climber's left of the ice.


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