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Member Since: Jul 12, 2010
Last Visit: 6 days ago
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Total Points: 133
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 66 | Routes 6 | Areas 1 | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 8 | Posts 35 | Stars 5 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Glass Menagerie (5.13a PG13)
By: Derek DeBruin When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: Quicklinks and chain have been added to anchors as appropriate to make rappelling a more appealing descent option, as noted in my prior comment.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Glass Menagerie (5.13a PG13)
By: Derek DeBruin When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Descent beta:
Rappel the route with a 70m rope.
From the top of the exit pitch, one 35m rappel puts you at the top of the "meat grinder" off-width pitch. Watch your rope ends!
From here, one 30m rappel puts you at the top of the free roof pitch. (A 35m rappel could probably get you to the top of the aid roof pitch, but I've never tried it.)
From here, one 70m rappel gets you to the ground, rappelling all the way past the crux pitches. This rappel is long, exposed, and kinda fun.

With this be... more >>


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Whippin' Boy (5.11d)
By: Derek DeBruin When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Was on Whippin' Boy today. I too noticed the loose nut on the second bolt of the .11d pitch when I got there, but I totally spaced on a wrench or even using a nut-tool to tighten it. I hand-tightened it on the way by. But that thing could use a turn or two with a wrench for sure.

Unfortunately, we also left a stopper (unintentionally) at the base of P2 in the thin crack on the OR ledge just below the fixed pin. If anyone can get that thing out, please do. I hate fixing gear.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Invisible Airwaves (5.10c A2)
By: Derek DeBruin When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments: As of 3/3/14, I would be very doubtful that P2 goes clean any more. We headed up without a hammer but I'm sad to report that all of the fixed heads (only 2 remained) are now ripped. The final section between the bolts will likely require either bashies or knifeblades since the fixed gear is now gone. Everything else went on cam hooks and hand placed beaks, though.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Traditions (5.11c)
By: Derek DeBruin When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: I disagree about the .10a crux with a 60 foot fall. There is indeed a "hard" move above the last bolt on the crux pitch, but it's no more than 5.8 or 5.9. It's a high-step/mantle depending on how you do it and it's only about 12 feet above the last bolt, maybe less than that. Calling it .10a with 60 foot fall potential is a bit alarmist.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Only the Good Die Young (5.11c)
By: Derek DeBruin When: Nov 2, 2012

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Comments: As of 11/1/2012, the left-hand bolt at the belay atop P3 is loose. A couple microcams (red and yellow C3s) backed it up decently. You could also probably bring the first bolt of P4 into the anchor with a cordelette.

Otherwise, fun climbing. P2 definitely felt like the business as opposed to P4 per the Handren guidebook. I recommend skipping the 3rd bolt on P2 as it is unnecessary and difficult to clip.


Location: AL : Steele : Cloudy Day (5.9)
By: Derek DeBruin When: Jul 10, 2011

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Comments: Cool. It sounds like what I have described is a conglomeration of 2 routes then...? I am aware of the line with 2 bolts that you describe. However, the bolts are brand new in appearance, leading me to believe they are a more recent route (though I can't confirm this.) I feel the bolted line goes at easy .10 or so. The slabby, chossy 5.8-ish thing is what I have described as the first pitch of "Cloudy Day," though they both realistically end at the same place on the ledge with the small pine... more >>


Location: AL : Steele : Uncertain Return (5.9)
By: Derek DeBruin When: May 8, 2011

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Comments: Don't remember who I was speaking to (Curt Merchant perhaps?), but I thought this route was called "Exit Stage Right."