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Member Since: Jul 12, 2010
Last Visit: Apr 8, 2014
Contact Derek DeBruin


Point Rank: # 3,903
Total Points: 101
Last Year: 42
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Contributions


All (40) | Routes (6) | Areas (1) | Photos (4) | Comments (6) | Posts (17) | Stars (5) | Ratings (1)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

South Ridge

5.6 4c 14 V S 4b (0)

Trad, Alpine, 1400'

CA : High Sierra : Peak 11,874

Sep 3, 2013

Putting Out the Vibe (FA)

5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c (1)

Trad, 2 pitches, 165'

AL : Steele

May 11, 2011

Black Magic

5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13 (3)

Trad, 1 pitch, 75'

AL : Steele

May 8, 2011

Tornado on your Birthday (FA)

5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a (1)

Trad, 2 pitches, 165'

AL : Steele

May 8, 2011

Flight of the Swallows (FA)

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a (1)

Trad, 3 pitches, 200'

AL : Steele

May 8, 2011

Cloudy Day

5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a (2)

Trad, 2 pitches, 165'

AL : Steele

May 8, 2011

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Peak 11,874

CA : High Sierra

Sep 3, 2013

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
To the best of my knowledge, complete beta for the available ice climbing at Whiteside Mountain, NC.  Feel free to contact me with additions/corrections.

To the best of my knowledge, complete beta for the available ice climbing at Whiteside Mountain, NC. Feel free to contact me with additions/corrections.

NC : Whiteside Mountain

Jan 13, 2014

Topo of the South Ridge of Peak 11,874 including approach from Blue Lake.

Topo of the South Ridge of Peak 11,874 including approach from Blue Lake.

CA : High Sierra : ... : South Ridge (5.6)

Sep 3, 2013

The approach and climb of the South Ridge of Peak 11,874 as seen from Blue Lake.

The approach and climb of the South Ridge of Peak 11,874 as seen from Blue Lake.

CA : High Sierra : ... : South Ridge (5.6)

Sep 3, 2013

Not the best photo in the world, but it does show nearly the entire line.

Not the best photo in the world, but it does show nearly the entire line.

AL : Sand Rock : ... : Wall of Horns (5.10b/c R)

Mar 13, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Whippin' Boy (5.11d)
By: Derek DeBruin When: Mar 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Was on Whippin' Boy today. I too noticed the loose nut on the second bolt of the .11d pitch when I got there, but I totally spaced on a wrench or even using a nut-tool to tighten it. I hand-tightened it on the way by. But that thing could use a turn or two with a wrench for sure.

Unfortunately, we also left a stopper (unintentionally) at the base of P2 in the thin crack on the OR ledge just below the fixed pin. If anyone can get that thing out, please do. I hate fixing gear.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Invisible Airwaves (5.10c A2)
By: Derek DeBruin When: Mar 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: As of 3/3/14, I would be very doubtful that P2 goes clean any more. We headed up without a hammer but I'm sad to report that all of the fixed heads (only 2 remained) are now ripped. The final section between the bolts will likely require either bashies or knifeblades since the fixed gear is now gone. Everything else went on cam hooks and hand placed beaks, though.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Traditions (5.11c)
By: Derek DeBruin When: Mar 18, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I disagree about the .10a crux with a 60 foot fall. There is indeed a "hard" move above the last bolt on the crux pitch, but it's no more than 5.8 or 5.9. It's a high-step/mantle depending on how you do it and it's only about 12 feet above the last bolt, maybe less than that. Calling it .10a with 60 foot fall potential is a bit alarmist.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Only the Good Die Young (5.11c)
By: Derek DeBruin When: Nov 2, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: As of 11/1/2012, the left-hand bolt at the belay atop P3 is loose. A couple microcams (red and yellow C3s) backed it up decently. You could also probably bring the first bolt of P4 into the anchor with a cordelette.

Otherwise, fun climbing. P2 definitely felt like the business as opposed to P4 per the Handren guidebook. I recommend skipping the 3rd bolt on P2 as it is unnecessary and difficult to clip.


Location: AL : Steele : Cloudy Day (5.9)
By: Derek DeBruin When: Jul 10, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Cool. It sounds like what I have described is a conglomeration of 2 routes then...? I am aware of the line with 2 bolts that you describe. However, the bolts are brand new in appearance, leading me to believe they are a more recent route (though I can't confirm this.) I feel the bolted line goes at easy .10 or so. The slabby, chossy 5.8-ish thing is what I have described as the first pitch of "Cloudy Day," though they both realistically end at the same place on the ledge with the small pine... more >>


Location: AL : Steele : Uncertain Return (5.9)
By: Derek DeBruin When: May 8, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Don't remember who I was speaking to (Curt Merchant perhaps?), but I thought this route was called "Exit Stage Right."


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Desoto Sport & TradSouthern StatesDerek DeBruinApr 8, 2014
Rock & Rumble bouldering competitionSouthern StatesDerek DeBruinMar 12, 2014
re: Standard southeast rack?Southern StatesDerek DeBruinDec 28, 2013
Recycling climbing holdsGeneral ClimbingDerek DeBruinSep 6, 2013
re: Tetons conditions, early June, Cathedral TraverseColorado & Rocky Mountain RegionDerek DeBruinFeb 22, 2013
re: Tetons conditions, early June, Cathedral TraverseColorado & Rocky Mountain RegionDerek DeBruinFeb 22, 2013
Tetons conditions, early June, Cathedral TraverseColorado & Rocky Mountain RegionDerek DeBruinFeb 21, 2013
re: Western Carolina University Rock and Rumble Bouldering CompSouthern StatesDerek DeBruinFeb 20, 2013
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