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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Bon Homme Variation (5.8)
By: denise 911 When: Jul 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1st pitch - rack your gear on your left side.
Very fun climb. I took the left crack on the 2nd pitch - while much easier than the first pitch with better rests - I would say it is still above a 5.5 (have seen it rated as 5.7 in a couple places - I would say maybe 5.6/light 5.7?). Found good placements with mostly larger gear on this pitch.
(will have to try the right crack next time - will definitely climb this route again)
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock
By: denise 911 When: Jun 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: New anchors at the top of Arkansas Patriot - There's also a new set of anchors just to the left of the Arkansas Patriot anchors. New trad line?? Anybody know anything?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Zig Zag (5.7)
By: denise 911 When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First climb on the Flatirons - fun route! We climbed the first pitch of Kamikaze and belayed at the tree. Really fun overhangs, but made for almost a full 70m pitch with serious rope drag to the belay below the roof on Zig Zag. (but then with the name zig zag I guess rope drag shouldn't be a surprise).
Full set of nuts and cams up to a BD #1 will get it done. I placed a couple bigger pieces, but the small placements were more predominant. (This might be different if you go in under t... more >>
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Location: denise 911 : Moab '09 : Photo
By: denise 911 When: Apr 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Todd- "this little lizard is so cool - you should get up here and watch him!"
Me- "um that's great - you can take a little" (muttering under my breath)
Todd -"you gotta hurry up to see this - I think he's hunting flies"
Me - "yeah great really... take please..." (more cussing and muttering)
Todd -"oooh sweet! he just caught a fly, man his tail was all wagging back and forth..."
Me -"take!"
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: denise 911 When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: as noted above - we also encountered two chimneys in the first pitch. I went way deep in to use the crack to protectand ended up walking up my #4 to the top and pulled it so my partner didn't have to go in as deep.
Calcite makes for slick chimneys - but I think I would still recommend not going all the way in on the first chimney and just run it out.
physically and mentally works you - loved and cussed every move
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain
By: denise 911 When: Aug 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note 'vegetation' involves forests of poison ivy. Can't really speak for quality of rock towards the top, but we encountered a lot of loose rock and decomposing granite on the approach up from Idlewilde Dam (on Hwy 34).
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Eden area : The Fable : East of Eden (5.9)
By: denise 911 When: Jun 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Roof is technical crux (and height dependent - as is much of the route) I agree with Todd - don't think it's easy sailing once over the roof - I found the bulge just above more trying. "Front Range Crags" lists this as 5.9+. Fun sustained climbing the whole way - we'll be back for this one again.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : The Checkerboard Wall
By: denise 911 When: Jun 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of June 2008 there were static ropes on both the rappels of Cruise Gully. I can't speak for the condition of the ropes or how long they have been there (we used our own). Poison Ivy at bottom of the first rap.
Also the trail sign isn't visible from the road, however it is a fairly well worn trail (and don't let talk of the rap stations mislead you - still a fair amount of scrambling/downclimbing before you get to them)
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Beginner's Slab : Devil's Spine (5.7)
By: denise 911 When: Jun 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 2 bolts to bolt anchors - no chains.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Beginner's Slab : Cardassian (5.9)
By: denise 911 When: Jun 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route, and the other 2 bolted lines on Beginner's Slab - 2 bolts each to bolt anchors, there are no longer any chains. - 2 bolts being plenty of pro for these fun little lines.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Putterman's Buttress (AKA B... : Mt. Julian Fisher-Fat Basta... (5.7)
By: denise 911 When: Mar 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun start in the chimney - got a bit sketched when I had a hold break off before the first bolt (my real intro to desert climbing I guess). Bit of exposure before the first bolt, inviting face climb other than the rock quality leaves something to be desired.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor
By: denise 911 When: Mar 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: nice south facing wall with some good variety in routes. looks like they closed off the camping area for parking (or maybe due to jeep safari that was going on)? wide spot in the road still fits a few cars. Perfect setting for a relaxed afternoon at the crag.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: denise 911 When: Mar 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: nice day - bit chilly at the belay stations. We passed the trail to the north face of the tower twice - at the first fork take the right towards the tower (left goes towards the rectory). Watch for a small branch that goes straight uphill to the left towards the base of the north face. If you miss it you end up around the south side at Kor Ingalls. Nice big boulders to scramble over to get to base.
Overall very fun route
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