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Making the reachy move to get established on the r...


Member Since: Jan 21, 2011
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
Contact Demyanek

Point Rank: # 1,597
Total Points: 423
Last Year: 74
Last 30 Days: 1
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Demyanek been climbing?










Contributions


All 278 | Routes 16 | Areas 2 | Photos 41 | Page Improvements | Comments 28 | Posts 1 | Stars 144 | Ratings 46
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : North Face/Ridge : Cable Route (5.4)
By: Demyanek When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Soloing Cable Route vs. bringing rope and rack:

In good conditions (no water, ice, or snow), there is no reason that a climber comfortable with leading 5.9 cannot solo this route without gear. There are only about 15 feet that could be considered 5th class climbing, and it's right at the beginning. After that, you have roughly 70 feet of slab reminiscent of the final approach on the Keyhole Route (just a bit steeper) before the scramble to the top begins.

In my personal opinion, hauling up a r... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Duncan's Ridge : Photo
By: Demyanek When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: There's another great warm-up route to the right of Purdy Dirty on the face.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Marina Ridge aka Sunshine B... : Muscle Cling (V6)
By: Demyanek When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments:



Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : The Wash Boulder : Photo
By: Demyanek When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Yellow line is the No Name V2 and Green line is Washed Up V4


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Arthur's Rock : South Face of Arthur's Rock : Goldeneye (5.11c/d)
By: Demyanek When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: I got on this yesterday, and it definitely was trickier than I expected. Sharp, small holds and a bit cryptic. I was straight up stumped at the third bolt - I couldn't find any holds to pull myself up to the slab on. I am about 5'10".


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Poudre Face : Check Your Six (5.11b)
By: Demyanek When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: Probably the best climb on the main (south) face at the Palace. Thoughtful and interesting climbing, lock-off moves on crimps for the crux around the 4th bolt.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : Duke's Wall : The General Lee (5.12a)
By: Demyanek When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: Three stars for sure. Shorter than the routes at upper echelon, but super sustained. I'd say that it is solid 5.12b - harder than ODK and maybe tougher than Tailspin. A couple bits of loose rock, but pretty clean overall. Basically 30 feet of thoughtful stemming to a large ledge - then straight into 50 feet of pumpy, overhanging climbing on sloped pinches and blocky 2 or 3 finger pockets. Classic.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Sunday School (5.10c)
By: Demyanek When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: I hate making negative comments - but here goes. The climbing isn't fun, the stretch to the anchors is runout and awkward, and cleaning this sucker is a royal pain. Not worth it. Climb the 11- to the right for much better quality.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Tom Thumb (5.8+)
By: Demyanek When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: You can do this one as a sport climb by clipping the first 6 bolts on Broken Arrow and then running it out on easy terrain to the anchors.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Mineshaft Wall : Armor Plated (5.11c)
By: Demyanek When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: DO THE DYNO. That is all. You are only cheating yourself....


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Silver Girl (5.10c)
By: Demyanek When: Mar 28, 2013

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Comments: The route breaks down like this: first third - 5.6 staircase, second third - fun 5.9ish moves, last third - 5.10c crux section on crystals. Will feel tricky if you're gunning for the onsight. Not nearly as consistent as its neighbor to the left.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Fully Equipped (5.9+)
By: Demyanek When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: Dude, don't listen to that rant of a description. I found this route to be fun and unique, with stemming, chimneying and crack climbing all coming into play. I concede that the bolt placement is awkward. Line would probably be better with trad protection. Still, I would suggest this one - don't be off put by the description.


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Solstice Cave : Solstice (5.12a) : Photo
By: Demyanek When: Mar 15, 2013

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Comments: In fact, the camera makes it look less steep than it actually is. The section of the climb at the top of the photo is actually so steep that you are climbing back towards the ground at that point.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Poudre Face : Orange You Glad (5.7)
By: Demyanek When: Jan 27, 2013

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Comments: This route is a nice one, even for more experienced climbers. The moves were enjoyable, and pulling onto the detached block was fun. I was pleasantly surprised for the grade. I could see the crux move being more 5.8ish, but I tend to agree with the 5.7 grade overall.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Photo
By: Demyanek When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: As far as Foco IPAs go, I suggest:
Odell's Mercenary IPA
Odell's Mountain Standard Double Black IPA
Equinox Space Ghost IPA
Equinox Zenith IPA.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : The Trough : Life in the Trough (5.10a)
By: Demyanek When: Jul 19, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this route yesterday (7/18/12) at the end of the day and enjoyed it more than I expected to. The first clip is a little nervy, but after that the climbing is sustained and thoughtful (and a little pumpy) with a decent view of the canyon.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Eve's Cave : Original Sin (5.10c/d)
By: Demyanek When: Jul 19, 2012

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Comments: This route is hard as balls. It's definitely the hardest 10 I have ever climbed. Mostly I am just referring to the crux sequence between the 4th and 5th bolts. Perhaps if you happen to be quite tall or really love slab climbing, it might not be as tough - But the crux felt like hard 11 to me. Otherwise, a good climb on great rock.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Poudre Face : Cheerleaders Gone Hippie (5.9+)
By: Demyanek When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: One of the best for the grade at the palace. The off-width crux is spicy! But there are several no-hands rests along the way and the climbing is thoughtful with interesting moves.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : Southwest Alcove : Inyerbuttkwa (5.10c)
By: Demyanek When: Apr 28, 2012

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Comments: This route was extremely fun to me - it had a little bit of everything. I would definitely suggest stick-clipping the first bolt! The start is an cruxy, overhanging section that leads into solid medium to small crimps on a vertical face. The final slopey arete move is probably the least "secure" but also the most interesting move on the route. I highly suggest it.


Location: TN : Foster Falls : Rocket Slab : Rode Hard, Put Up Wet (5.10d)
By: Demyanek When: Nov 18, 2011

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Comments: My friend and I did this one a few years back thinking it was a 9. We both agreed it must be the hardest nine in the universe haha Sweet finish through the roof!


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Solstice Cave : Solstice (5.12a)
By: Demyanek When: Oct 20, 2011

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Comments: In the horizontal section there are tons of ways to use footwork to take the weight off your arms. Keep an eye out for heel and toe hooks. I also found it useful to spin 180 degrees at certain points in order to use better feet. Excellent route!


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Image Wall : Shadowhawk (5.9)
By: Demyanek When: Oct 20, 2011

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Comments: There are issues with rope drag, but nothing that a few runners can't fix. Anyways, this route is one of the best 9s in the east and is well worth it. I personally love the final 20' "extension" at the top.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : North 40 : Amarillo Sunset (5.11b)
By: Demyanek When: Oct 20, 2011

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Comments: Maybe the best route I have ever climbed. There is a slightly tough clip if you are fighting the pump right below the anchors. I took a big whipper from there, but its a clean fall. At that bolt, I suggest clipping from the undercling and not the smaller hold higher up.


Location: TN : Foster Falls : The Sanford Wall : Fish-eyed Fool (5.10b)
By: Demyanek When: Aug 16, 2011

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Comments: One of the best 10s at fosters with some fun, technical moves. From what I can guess, the anchors originally were directly above the last bolt right under the ledge at the top. I think that the anchors were moved at some point about 7-8 feet to the left, making the last section a little bit runout for a new leader - perfectly safe, but with potential for a 25+ft fall clipping the anchors.


Location: TN : Foster Falls : Jimmywood : Miss Scarlet (5.9+)
By: Demyanek When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Always have fun on this one. It's a great warmup! There is a spicy clip about 3/4 of the way up where you make a big move from a jug on the left to a series of pockets up and to the right before clipping the next bolt. The top section is easier than it looks


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