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Making the reachy move to get established on the r...


Member Since: Jan 21, 2011
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,571
Total Points: 423
Last Year: 74
Last 30 Days: 0
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 275 | Routes 16 | Areas 2 | Photos 41 | Page Improvements | Comments 27 | Posts 1 | Stars 143 | Ratings 45
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Poudre Face : Cheerleaders Gone Hippie (5.9+)
By: Demyanek When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: One of the best for the grade at the palace. The off-width crux is spicy! But there are several no-hands rests along the way and the climbing is thoughtful with interesting moves.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : Southwest Alcove : Inyerbuttkwa (5.10c)
By: Demyanek When: Apr 28, 2012

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Comments: This route was extremely fun to me - it had a little bit of everything. I would definitely suggest stick-clipping the first bolt! The start is an cruxy, overhanging section that leads into solid medium to small crimps on a vertical face. The final slopey arete move is probably the least "secure" but also the most interesting move on the route. I highly suggest it.


Location: TN : Foster Falls : Rocket Slab : Rode Hard, Put Up Wet (5.10d)
By: Demyanek When: Nov 18, 2011

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Comments: My friend and I did this one a few years back thinking it was a 9. We both agreed it must be the hardest nine in the universe haha Sweet finish through the roof!


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Solstice Cave : Solstice (5.12a)
By: Demyanek When: Oct 20, 2011

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Comments: In the horizontal section there are tons of ways to use footwork to take the weight off your arms. Keep an eye out for heel and toe hooks. I also found it useful to spin 180 degrees at certain points in order to use better feet. Excellent route!


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Image Wall : Shadowhawk (5.9)
By: Demyanek When: Oct 20, 2011

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Comments: There are issues with rope drag, but nothing that a few runners can't fix. Anyways, this route is one of the best 9s in the east and is well worth it. I personally love the final 20' "extension" at the top.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : North 40 : Amarillo Sunset (5.11b)
By: Demyanek When: Oct 20, 2011

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Comments: Maybe the best route I have ever climbed. There is a slightly tough clip if you are fighting the pump right below the anchors. I took a big whipper from there, but its a clean fall. At that bolt, I suggest clipping from the undercling and not the smaller hold higher up.


Location: TN : Foster Falls : The Sanford Wall : Fish-eyed Fool (5.10b)
By: Demyanek When: Aug 16, 2011

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Comments: One of the best 10s at fosters with some fun, technical moves. From what I can guess, the anchors originally were directly above the last bolt right under the ledge at the top. I think that the anchors were moved at some point about 7-8 feet to the left, making the last section a little bit runout for a new leader - perfectly safe, but with potential for a 25+ft fall clipping the anchors.


Location: TN : Foster Falls : Jimmywood : Miss Scarlet (5.9+)
By: Demyanek When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Always have fun on this one. It's a great warmup! There is a spicy clip about 3/4 of the way up where you make a big move from a jug on the left to a series of pockets up and to the right before clipping the next bolt. The top section is easier than it looks


Location: TN : Foster Falls : The Dihedrals : Twist and Shout (5.9+)
By: Demyanek When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: This is one of my Favorite 9s at foster. Its a stout 5.9, with a lower crux pulling the small roof after the first bolt and a second crux transitioning off the ledge rest to the face halfway up. Nice exposure and one of the taller routes. Fun moves on sidepulls, crimps a few jugs as well.


Location: TN : Foster Falls : The Left Bunker : Premarital Drilling (5.10b)
By: Demyanek When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Fun route, especially when you get stuck in the rain in the darkie cave and aren't at the 5.12+ level haha There is no way this is a 5.10b though, apart from the bouldery start, its an easy 5.9. I'd suggest stick-clipping the first bolt


Location: TN : Foster Falls : The Red Light District : Dutch Maiden (5.10a)
By: Demyanek When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Did this one in June, lots of fun! The crux for me was the last move to the chains, but I didn't see the jug hold above the anchors either. There is a cool expansion move on crimpy holds between the second and third bolts (or 3rd and 4th?). Either way, cool route.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Photographer Needed - Outdoor Nonprofit Working With Underserved YouthColoradoDemyanekMay 28, 2015

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

The Nipple Wall V3 6A R

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Nipple Wall

Tailspin 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Old Aid Wall aka Upper Eche...

Empire of the Fenceless 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

CO : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock

Moving Target 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

TN : Foster Falls : So What Area

The Kind (originally In Your Face, then Standard Overhang - after the block was removed) V5 6C

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Emerald Lake

Jaws 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

AL : Sand Rock : Jaws Block/West Side Rock

Joy Ride 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

CO : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island

Marejala Feliz (Happy Tide) 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

North America : Puerto Rico : Cueva Del Indio (Arecibo)

Ga-stoned Again 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CO : Shelf Road : The Gym

The Crack of Dawn 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

CO : Shelf Road : The Gym

Crystal 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CO : Shelf Road : The Gym

Crynoid Corner 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff

Strange Science 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Middle Wall

Right Eliminator Prow V4 6B

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Eliminator Boulder

The Young and the Rackless 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Upper East Face

O.D.K. 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Old Aid Wall aka Upper Eche...

Middle Toe 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Dinosaur's Foot

Monstrosity 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Mineshaft Wall

Toxxxic Entertainment 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CO : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge

Delicious Demon 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Snake Eyes Wall

Pinch Overhang V5 6C

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Mental Block

The Scepter 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CO : Fort Collins : ... : The Scepter

Mental Standard V4 6B

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Mental Block

She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

CO : Shelf Road : The Gym

Solstice 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

TN : Obed & Clear Creek : ... : Solstice Cave

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