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Making the reachy move to get established on the r...


Member Since: Jan 21, 2011
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,597
Total Points: 423
Last Year: 74
Last 30 Days: 1
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 278 | Routes 16 | Areas 2 | Photos 41 | Page Improvements | Comments 28 | Posts 1 | Stars 144 | Ratings 46
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Eve's Cave : Original Sin (5.10c/d)
By: Demyanek When: Jul 19, 2012

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Comments: This route is hard as balls. It's definitely the hardest 10 I have ever climbed. Mostly I am just referring to the crux sequence between the 4th and 5th bolts. Perhaps if you happen to be quite tall or really love slab climbing, it might not be as tough - But the crux felt like hard 11 to me. Otherwise, a good climb on great rock.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Poudre Face : Cheerleaders Gone Hippie (5.9+)
By: Demyanek When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: One of the best for the grade at the palace. The off-width crux is spicy! But there are several no-hands rests along the way and the climbing is thoughtful with interesting moves.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : Southwest Alcove : Inyerbuttkwa (5.10c)
By: Demyanek When: Apr 28, 2012

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Comments: This route was extremely fun to me - it had a little bit of everything. I would definitely suggest stick-clipping the first bolt! The start is an cruxy, overhanging section that leads into solid medium to small crimps on a vertical face. The final slopey arete move is probably the least "secure" but also the most interesting move on the route. I highly suggest it.


Location: TN : Foster Falls : Rocket Slab : Rode Hard, Put Up Wet (5.10d)
By: Demyanek When: Nov 18, 2011

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Comments: My friend and I did this one a few years back thinking it was a 9. We both agreed it must be the hardest nine in the universe haha Sweet finish through the roof!


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Solstice Cave : Solstice (5.12a)
By: Demyanek When: Oct 20, 2011

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Comments: In the horizontal section there are tons of ways to use footwork to take the weight off your arms. Keep an eye out for heel and toe hooks. I also found it useful to spin 180 degrees at certain points in order to use better feet. Excellent route!


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Image Wall : Shadowhawk (5.9)
By: Demyanek When: Oct 20, 2011

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Comments: There are issues with rope drag, but nothing that a few runners can't fix. Anyways, this route is one of the best 9s in the east and is well worth it. I personally love the final 20' "extension" at the top.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : North 40 : Amarillo Sunset (5.11b)
By: Demyanek When: Oct 20, 2011

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Comments: Maybe the best route I have ever climbed. There is a slightly tough clip if you are fighting the pump right below the anchors. I took a big whipper from there, but its a clean fall. At that bolt, I suggest clipping from the undercling and not the smaller hold higher up.


Location: TN : Foster Falls : The Sanford Wall : Fish-eyed Fool (5.10b)
By: Demyanek When: Aug 16, 2011

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Comments: One of the best 10s at fosters with some fun, technical moves. From what I can guess, the anchors originally were directly above the last bolt right under the ledge at the top. I think that the anchors were moved at some point about 7-8 feet to the left, making the last section a little bit runout for a new leader - perfectly safe, but with potential for a 25+ft fall clipping the anchors.


Location: TN : Foster Falls : Jimmywood : Miss Scarlet (5.9+)
By: Demyanek When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Always have fun on this one. It's a great warmup! There is a spicy clip about 3/4 of the way up where you make a big move from a jug on the left to a series of pockets up and to the right before clipping the next bolt. The top section is easier than it looks


Location: TN : Foster Falls : The Dihedrals : Twist and Shout (5.9+)
By: Demyanek When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: This is one of my Favorite 9s at foster. Its a stout 5.9, with a lower crux pulling the small roof after the first bolt and a second crux transitioning off the ledge rest to the face halfway up. Nice exposure and one of the taller routes. Fun moves on sidepulls, crimps a few jugs as well.


Location: TN : Foster Falls : The Left Bunker : Premarital Drilling (5.10b)
By: Demyanek When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Fun route, especially when you get stuck in the rain in the darkie cave and aren't at the 5.12+ level haha There is no way this is a 5.10b though, apart from the bouldery start, its an easy 5.9. I'd suggest stick-clipping the first bolt


Location: TN : Foster Falls : The Red Light District : Dutch Maiden (5.10a)
By: Demyanek When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Did this one in June, lots of fun! The crux for me was the last move to the chains, but I didn't see the jug hold above the anchors either. There is a cool expansion move on crimpy holds between the second and third bolts (or 3rd and 4th?). Either way, cool route.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Photographer Needed - Outdoor Nonprofit Working With Underserved YouthColoradoDemyanekMay 28, 2015

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Right Eliminator V4 6B

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Eliminator Boulder

Crynoid Corner 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff

Joy Ride 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

CO : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island

Empire of the Fenceless 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

CO : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock

The Kind (originally In Your Face, then Standard Overhang - after the block was removed) V5 6C

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Emerald Lake

Moving Target 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

TN : Foster Falls : So What Area

Jaws 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

AL : Sand Rock : Jaws Block/West Side Rock

Cable Route 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : North Face/Ridge

Ga-stoned Again 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CO : Shelf Road : The Gym

The Crack of Dawn 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

CO : Shelf Road : The Gym

Crystal 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CO : Shelf Road : The Gym

Tailspin 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Old Aid Wall aka Upper Eche...

Strange Science 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Middle Wall

The Scepter 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CO : Fort Collins : ... : The Scepter

Right Eliminator Prow V4 6B

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Eliminator Boulder

The Nipple Wall V3 6A R

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Nipple Wall

O.D.K. 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Old Aid Wall aka Upper Eche...

The Young and the Rackless 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Upper East Face

Toxxxic Entertainment 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CO : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge

Middle Toe 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Dinosaur's Foot

Monstrosity 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Mineshaft Wall

Delicious Demon 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Snake Eyes Wall

Pinch Overhang V5 6C

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Mental Block

Mental Standard V4 6B

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Mental Block

She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

CO : Shelf Road : The Gym

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