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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Butterfingers (5.9+)
By: DCrane When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, seemed clean - still some loose stuff on the rappel/lower so watch out for people standing under you on the way down.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Its Right to be Frank (5.11a)
By: DCrane When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: There are a lot of options for hands that make this a lot harder. Once you find the correct sequence it gets way easier. Very fun route though!
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Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : The Valley of Zion : Cannabis Crew Wall
By: DCrane When: Apr 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Greg! Do you have names of any routes here? This was a great place to climb but I wouldn't know where to begin listing routes, let alone names for them. If you wish to keep it more secretive I'll respect that - though I don't understand it - but I would like to share as much info about the area as possible. This is a really amazing place to climb.
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Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : The Valley of Zion : Tokey Dokey
By: DCrane When: Apr 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Greg. Great area! Thanks for all the work you put into it!
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Location: UT : Oquirrh Mountains : Lake Point : White Trash (5.8)
By: DCrane When: Oct 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I actually really like this climb. Interesting stuff for the grade. Climbed it as a highball boulder with my one little pad. One sketchy looking section near the top but easy enough to do solo if you're comfortable with the grade. Just test your holds before committing.
For sorting this would be between Fearless and Tweedle Dee
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Location: UT : Oquirrh Mountains : Ophir Canyon : Portwoods Wall : Truckin (5.9)
By: DCrane When: Oct 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gave this one a lower rating as the landing is no fun. Starts in the trees, but it's a good climb
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : White Pine Boulders
By: DCrane When: Sep 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Emerson, I believe you are referring to the same boulder I was on today. If you are looking for information on it I wish I could help. I added it under the Warm-up Area as the Eastern Boulder. If anyone has more info on anything in this area please share!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : White Pine Boulders : ... : Photo
By: DCrane When: Sep 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the current (late Autumn) conditions, it is possible to cross the stream directly to this boulder from West (down canyon) of the parking area. Higher water will require walking East to cross and doubling back.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Gate Boulders : ... : The Jug Problem (V0)
By: DCrane When: Sep 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did the V0 standing and then repeated from the crimpy sit start. I would have to agree this makes it harder, but maybe to a V1+ at the most. Can't see calling that a V3. If you keep left instead of walking right on the large rail near the top, I could see that that looked much more difficult. Maybe that is where the V3 is coming from?
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Location: UT : Oquirrh Mountains : Ophir Canyon : Ganja Wall : Hot Pocket (5.10a)
By: DCrane When: Sep 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure of the real name, but we nicknamed this one for the amazing pocket that can be used in multiple directions. Seriously, the best hold around.
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Location: UT : Oquirrh Mountains : Ophir Canyon : Ganja Wall : Unknown 5.9 (5.9)
By: DCrane When: Sep 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Watch for loose rock. Cleaned a lot of loose stuff off today, 2 big nearly football sized rocks came off, with many smaller ones as well. Helmets are a good idea here.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Goth Girls (5.10b PG13)
By: DCrane When: Aug 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I on-sighted this right after the other 10.b (Nosferatu) and this was more difficult. This has some different styles which is kind of cool, but the face climbing is very thin and interesting. I went for the bolt-line instead of using the arete or the crack. There can be a large variation but I think if you stay along the bolt-line it is much harder than 10.b. Not a bad climb, though. It makes you think
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Wrecking Ball (5.11a)
By: DCrane When: Jul 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely an .11 if you take the left side over the roof. Seems hard at first but work it out and find the moves. Good .10a-ish variation if you hang right. These should almost be listed as two separate routes even though they share all 3 bolts and anchors.
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Location: UT : Oquirrh Mountains : Ophir Canyon : Ganja Wall : Slope On A Rope (5.11d)
By: DCrane When: Jul 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring your stick clip or improvise one - the hold that looks great for the first clip isn't all that fun to clip from.
Attempted on lead but with a lot of hangs and a bit of cheating. Will be back to RP this one for sure! Lots of fun!
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Location: UT : Oquirrh Mountains : Ophir Canyon : Portwoods Wall : Poopy Pants (5.7)
By: DCrane When: Jul 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA was by Matt Merton and Tonya Merton - feels harder than a 5.7, but that is what the original FA's gave it.
Interesting and thin start, but found to be easier if you start left of the bush (this would require skipping the first bolt)
interesting moves and worth climbing for sure.
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Location: UT : Oquirrh Mountains : Ophir Canyon : Portwoods Wall
By: DCrane When: Jul 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are actually several walls in Ophir Canyon now. The wall listed here was the first, now called Portwoods Wall. James Garrett has a fantastic guide for called "Utah's West Desert" published in 2011. However, talking to locals and looking at the routes this guide is already outdated because there has been so much development here recently. Lots of possibilities await!
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Stone Garden : Tortured Screams (5.10b)
By: DCrane When: Jul 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 3 Very distinct and different section to this climb. Loved the variation. Bring a couple runners to reduce drag.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Pipe Dream : Buddha's Belly (5.10a)
By: DCrane When: Jun 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are 15 bolts between the first set of anchors and the second. Bring plenty of draws. One 60m rope was fine for rappelling (two rappels)
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Pipe Dream : Buddha's Belly (5.10a)
By: DCrane When: Jun 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anchor bolts at the top of the first and second pitch have no chains. I left a biner and quicklink at the top of second so you can lower off them. both sets need chains or another link to reduce drag. Fantastic view from the top!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - Lower : Skid Row Variation (5.11b)
By: DCrane When: Jun 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That hold you're considering is as good, if not better, than it looks. Just go for it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : China Wall : Viable Option (5.11b)
By: DCrane When: Jun 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're climbing straight up the face I could see how this would be 5.11, the beta I had used the very edge of the arete and seemed easier. Perhaps this is where the variation between 10d and 11b comes in
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area
By: DCrane When: Jun 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If anyone finds a cell phone - or pieces of one - please message me, I hope to at least get the memory card back. Phone fell out of my pocket at the top of p2 on Schoolroom west, I can't imagine it's in good shape...
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : Zen Garden : Buddha Belly (5.10a)
By: DCrane When: Jun 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Strange one for sure, but I liked it. Most people I talked to did not though
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Something Must Break (5.11a/b)
By: DCrane When: Jun 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb. Really cool start, crux maybe 1/2 way up then it gets much easier. Still finding some loose things here and there.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Bingo Baby : The Milkmaid (5.11b)
By: DCrane When: May 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb. Had to take once because I missed a killer side-pull/under-cling pocket all together. Can't wait to come back and red-point it.
Those sharp limestone pockets can tear up fingers if you're not careful!
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