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Member Since: May 28, 2006
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,433
Total Points: 430
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has dcohn been climbing?










Contributions


All 559 | Routes 33 | Areas 1 | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 45 | Posts 45 | Stars 310 | Ratings 117
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : In Your Dreams (5.10c)
By: dcohn When: May 22, 2011

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Comments: Surprisingly fun route. It is hard to see the good stuff from the bottom. A #0.5 or 0.75 Camalot can be used in the steep section but is not necessary. The guidebook gave it 11a, but 10d is probably more accurate.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Leviathan (5.11d)
By: dcohn When: May 22, 2011

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Comments: Tough onsight, but once you unlock the crux, it starts to feel the grade.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Helm's Deep (5.10+)
By: dcohn When: Jul 18, 2010

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Comments: Cool route and pretty heady. Definitely bring some small gear. The moves over the bolt on P1 were very stiff.

I don't consider the second pitch safe right now. The first bolt is a very old (early 70's?) rusted button head. It is a pretty important bolt too since it comes after a substantial runout in the middle of the pitch. If you don't want to take the risk, you can rap off the first pitch.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Tree Amigos (5.9)
By: dcohn When: Jun 16, 2010

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Comments: Did this on my way outta Windy Point today. No need to use the tree. The face moves up to bolt 1 are no harder than v0.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Star Wars Rock : Thumbs Down Left (5.9)
By: dcohn When: Apr 27, 2010

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Comments: I am not sure why some people gave this a bomb. The bottom is a little grainy, but I thought it protected well and was a decent route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Abracadaver (5.11a)
By: dcohn When: Jan 12, 2010

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Comments: Is it useful to carry a #6 camalot up this route?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Table Dome : Wily Javelina (5.9 PG13)
By: dcohn When: Jan 3, 2010

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Comments: As mentioned above, this is 6 pitches, not 5. The route is the first route to the left of the small roof. If you encounter quick links and/or bail biners early on, you are probably on Three Draws and a Little Lady.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : The Traddy Wagon : Hooligan (5.11c)
By: dcohn When: Nov 22, 2009

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Comments: Be careful of loose stuff on the ledges. I accidentally knocked off a 50+ pound block. Fortunately I missed the belayer by a long-shot.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Elephant Dome : Elephantiasis (5.10 PG13)
By: dcohn When: Nov 2, 2009

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Comments: There was a lot of loose stuff, but we didn't break any of it off so I didn't think to give it a bomb. There is also quite a bit of good rock scattered throughout the route- maybe 50% is pretty good. I rated it based on the whole experience, not just rock quality.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Rapture of the Steep (5.10)
By: dcohn When: Sep 27, 2009

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Comments: I saw the "nuts in opposition" placement on P2. It is not really required as I could place a micro cam and a #3 camalot in nearly the same spot. Maybe the nuts would work better, I dunno. That old rusted bolt ought to be replaced at some point. P2 is worth doing to avoid the scramble back up the gulley.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Kick in the Nuts (5.11c)
By: dcohn When: Jul 9, 2009

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Comments: Yes, it is right of Scuzzlebutt.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Humungous Woosey (5.9 R)
By: dcohn When: May 27, 2009

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Comments: How were the run outs?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Rapture of the Steep (5.10)
By: dcohn When: May 19, 2009

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Comments: One of the nicest cracks on Lemmon. Great location too. Do most people turn the roof on p1 to the right of the big jug? Thats what I did, but I saw a small fixed nut to the left where the crack turns into a seam.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Get The Flock Out Of Here (5.10+)
By: dcohn When: Mar 22, 2009

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Comments: This is a challenging and fun way up Sheepshead. The route seemed more like 600 feet than 700. Cams up to Camalot #4 and a lot of draws were sufficient for pro. I liked having doubles of 1 and .75. The cracks are mostly parallel sided so I did not place a lot of nuts. Depending on your strengths, the crux of the climb might be on different pitches. For us, the last 2 pitches were just as hard as the third one. However it is hard to compare crack and thin face. We slung a boulder at... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Water World : Hydroponics (5.11)
By: dcohn When: Mar 8, 2009

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Comments: Very fun pitch. It is nice to have 2 ropes to help with cleaning, especially if you take a fall. The anchors on the .10 to the right can be useful for that. The rail traverse is great with solid rock. There are still some loose holds on near the top and we knocked some loose stuff in the pool. I imagine this route will age well.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : The Planet Eater (5.11)
By: dcohn When: Feb 24, 2009

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Comments: This is a great climb when there are no wasps. I have never seen them there before so maybe its seasonal.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Chung King Corner (5.10-)
By: dcohn When: Nov 23, 2008

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Comments: This route had some interesting climbing and a few tough moves. I wish I had a #5 camalot for that short OW section.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Ride a Wild Bago (5.10a R)
By: dcohn When: Nov 17, 2008

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Comments: It was a little tricky to place gear at crux but it is good if placed correctly. Stepping over the chasm onto the wall to start (instead of starting from the boulder to the left) was pretty easy and reasonably well protected. Definitely not R when done like that.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : The Other One (5.11+)
By: dcohn When: Aug 31, 2008

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Comments: Start a little bit left of the first bolt (at least that is what we did) and make some techy moves up and right. There is a nice jug to rest on near the second or third bolt. After that, it is all steep, sustained and fingery. There are a lot of tough moves on this one.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Histoplasmosis (5.11+)
By: dcohn When: Apr 28, 2008

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Comments: Not unless it is a REALLY long 60 meter rope.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Histoplasmosis (5.11+)
By: dcohn When: Apr 26, 2008

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Comments: There are chains on top of this climb so making a (gear) anchor is optional.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Under The Weather (5.11)
By: dcohn When: Feb 18, 2008

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Comments: This route is a blast. It was pretty clean when I climbed it. I placed a #2 in the last pocket before turning the roof. Being pumped and turning the roof in the wrong spot, I fell on it. It turned about 60 degrees and I was caught by half a cam. That was a little disconcerting. If you are not too desperate when you make the placement, a slightly better placement is possible. However I think a good placement is possible with a medium-large hex. Next time I will try that for sure.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Sweetie Don't Bite (5.11-)
By: dcohn When: Jan 27, 2008

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Comments: Despite Joseph's experience, this climb is probably 3 letter grades harder than Virgin's. It is similar climbing but there several very thin cruxes on this climb. One of the cool aspects of the climb is that due to the rock angle, you can basically cling to the rock until you figure out your way through the cruxes.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : North End : Vascular Disaster (5.11c PG13)
By: dcohn When: Nov 16, 2007

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Comments: Strange rating. An 11c with a 12a start.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Waterfall Dome : ... : Photo
By: dcohn When: Oct 22, 2007

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Comments: Nice route map. Eventually you can add the other routes that picture. I think the route actually starts a little right of the line you drew. The small roof above the start is marked by a tiny obtuse v-shaped shadow in the picture.


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