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Only a few moves with an awkward top out.


Member Since: Nov 30, 2008
Last Visit: May 25, 2014
Contact Davis13au


Point Rank: # 270
Total Points: 2,016
Last Year: 42
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 424 | Routes 57 | Areas 23 | Photos 213 | Page Improvements | Comments 36 | Posts 8 | Stars 80 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: GA : Juliette Boulders : The Throne of God : Get Your Rocks Off (V5 PG13)
By: Davis13au When: Oct 3, 2013

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Comments: It's a large chunk of rock and there is plenty of room between this one and Rock Till You Drop but there are virtually no options for holds in the "middle". There are a few micro ledges and a small seam for fingertips up higher but that's about it. Once you get to the top jugs appear all over the place.

I can't see another route in there but maybe a "V14" type could see some possibilities.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Gunsight to South Peak (5.3) : Photo
By: Davis13au When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: Winds would make it a bit more dicey for sure. The pucker factor is there but it's not unprotected. Walking the ridge is actually the finish of Gunsight to South Peak. You can protect the walk with a belay and place protection along the ridge top at your feet. A fall off the side would be rough as you would definitly swing. It's a really great 5.3. Probably one of the few 5.3s around that's worth going out of your way to do.


Location: GA : Murder Creek
By: Davis13au When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for cleaning up msm0711. I haven't been back to this area in a good while but I haven't found much info on established routes (there aren't many anyway). The area you are asking about has definitly been climbed before. I've talked to at least one party that has, I've seen chalk, and we've goofed around on it but never finished anything. There is a little info (barely) on rocklimbing.com on an area called Boulder Balls and a route called "I'm a Little Tea Pot". There's two pics of som... more >>


Location: GA : Mount Yonah : White Wall : Velvet Fist (5.12a)
By: Davis13au When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: Great addition to the Mt Yonah page. Just for clarification Velvet Fist is technically on the Patriot Wall just above White Wall. There is a Patriot Wall area if you'd like to move the route there.


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders : The Brain : Frontal Lobe Traverse (V3)
By: Davis13au When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Worked on this a few times on one day. I've done all the sections/moves but have yet to complete it end to end without coming off at or right after the crux.


Location: GA : Mount Yonah : Main Face : Balance Climb 2 (5.5)
By: Davis13au When: Jan 3, 2013

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Comments: BC2 doesn't really go to the top but you can get there. The most direct line is to use Overhang Approach. Just check out the route on MP.com. It's easy climbing but fair warning....there's no real protection. You could also make your way up the Army Cable or traverse over onto BC9 from which you can pick your way to the top on.


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders
By: Davis13au When: Nov 20, 2012

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Comments: Awesome caleb r! Thanks for taking the time to do that. I know it's not climbers leaving trash at the rocks but it's great that climbers care enough to pack it out.


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders
By: Davis13au When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: My daughter and I took a trash bag with us today because it had gotten pretty bad out at the rocks. To our surprise it had already been completely cleaned up. Big thanks to whoever took the time to pick up out there. It may have been some fellow climbers or perhaps the WMA folks but if you are out there please don't leave trash and pick some up if you see it.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Old Man's Route (5.2) : Photo
By: Davis13au When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: Don't think you're on Old Man's here. Looks more like Old Lady's.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : Conn's East (5.6)
By: Davis13au When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: Granted, it's not the greatest 5.6 on the planet but it's still a good multi pitch route at the grade. The first pitch starts off a bit awkward with not so great protection for the first few moves and the second pitch is short but lots of fun. It wanders across the ledges but you are climbing more than you are walking ledges. I wouldn't put it in Old Lady's territory. The last pitch is fun down low and then you can't beat the walk across the summit ridge.


Location: GA : Hitchiti Boulders : Boulder 1 : Minimum Height Required (V2)
By: Davis13au When: Apr 26, 2012

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Comments: The crack is the "Unnamed Crack" listed in this section. A guy named Hank climbed it and managed the top out so it's do-able. I've never been there when the top wasn't soaking wet so I've never tried it. If he's still around he might have the info.


Location: GA : Hitchiti Boulders : Boulder 3 : Little Tree (V2+ PG13)
By: Davis13au When: Apr 26, 2012

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Comments: Great to see some activity at Hitchiti! I wouldn't worry too much about the FA unless someone chimes in with the info. More than likely everything has been tried out there at least once. Not too many people that I know of climb there anymore though. I haven't made it out there yet this year but maybe soon.


Location: GA : Mount Yonah : The Lowers : Four (5.6)
By: Davis13au When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: True. Going straight up the bolts come to an end. If memory serves, I think the original route may have followed bolts up the ramp to the right. I've never climbed it that way and I'm not sure if anyone does. Going straight up it's either a dangerous runout or a TR.


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders : The Throne of God : Rock Till You Drop (V4)
By: Davis13au When: Oct 28, 2011

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Comments: I heard from the FA for this route. He never climbed it roped and never gave it a grade. I've updated the FA info to reflect this. It was cool to hear from someone who had history on Juliette. Seems like the consensus is bringing the grade down and that's cool. I wish a few more people got out there to climb. I'm headed back to Macon this year after two years of climbing in VA and W VA so it will be interesting to see what I think about the route now. It's still the Mid GA classic though.


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders : The Throne of God
By: Davis13au When: Oct 28, 2011

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Comments: I changed the name of this boulder from Main Overhang to The Throne of God based on info passed along by the climber who put up Rock Till You Drop. This is what they called the boulder because of he indentation at the top that makes for a great place to sit and look out over the lake and its size relative to the other boulders. It was great to get original info on it and I'd love to hear what else is out there.


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders
By: Davis13au When: Oct 28, 2011

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Comments: I was contacted recently by Rodney Selman, a Macon local, with some great info about the history of bouldering at Juliette. I've updated a few things throughout the site to reflect the new info. It's great to hear about the history of an area even one as small as Juliette. If any one else has any info about climbing at Juliette I'd love to hear it and incorporate it into this site.


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders : The Brain : Pinky and the Brain (V4)
By: Davis13au When: Dec 10, 2010

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Comments: SF, got any more info about this route or any others? I didn't find this place till 2006. There's not much to it but here and Hitchiti is about it for trying to stay in shape in Macon. I wish I had more info on FAs, grades, or route names just to give credit where it's due. Thanks.


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders : The Throne of God : Get Your Rocks Off (V5 PG13)
By: Davis13au When: Dec 10, 2010

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Comments: Hey Hank. Good to see you climbed out there again. I agree it's probably short of V6. The first few moves are the crux. Falling from the jugs would really suck though. I hadn't really bouldered much when we first started putting up these few routes. I'd like to see the consensus bring them all to where they should be but enough people will probably never climb there. I may just change it. I haven't climbed there in well over a year (live in Virginia now). I'd like to come back and see w... more >>


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders : The Throne of God : Get Your Rocks Off (V5 PG13) : Photo
By: Davis13au When: Jun 25, 2010

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Comments: It's probably 18ft to the very top. It is on a hill so that makes it feel taller. About 3ft from the top though you are home free. 4-5 short moves can take you up it but it lays back at a pretty good angle until the last move over the top. It's pretty fun though and a little tough till you figure it out.


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders : The Brain : Photo
By: Davis13au When: Jun 25, 2010

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Comments: It's actually a nice little spot. Not really a destination area of any kind but if you're local it's worth checking it out. It's nice being by the lake and there are few good routes. Summer is not the time to go though.


Location: GA : Hitchiti Boulders : Boulder 3A : One Wet Sock (V1+)
By: Davis13au When: Jun 25, 2010

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Comments: Not a good one. Right before we climbed it the first time I dumped my water bottle right into one of my shoes and soaked a sock. That's it :)


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders : The Throne of God : Rock Till You Drop (V4)
By: Davis13au When: Apr 7, 2010

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Comments: Glad you got out there and glad to see people checking Juliette out. I don't care to get in a grade pissing contest but I've climbed V0s and V6s and RTYD is probably somewhere inbetween. When I put this page up that's the info that I dug up on the route 5.9+ and V4-5. (I know that a 5.9 equates to a V0) I don't know who the FA was or who originally rated it but that's what I'll leave it at and if the consensus continues to bring it down then that's cool. Regardless it's one of the best bould... more >>


Location: GA : Mount Yonah : White Wall : Where's Michael...? (5.11a)
By: Davis13au When: Apr 5, 2010

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Comments: On request I've renamed this route "Where's Michael" after the FA. Michael, if you have a name for this one, or if anyone knows it, just let me know and I'll change it.

Thanks to Paul for cleaning and putting an anchor up. If this one gets some traffic and stays clean the trio of Jodi, Think, and this one will be a great one.


Location: GA : Mount Yonah : White Wall
By: Davis13au When: Apr 5, 2010

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Comments: This is great that White Wall is getting some attention this year. I think it's one of the better spots on Yonah. About a year ago we cleaned Lizards Tail for a while and pulled a bunch of vines but I'm sure it's bad again. The top needed a lot of cleaning. I agree with the nylon brush. When doing things like White Wall I keep a cheap nylon tire brush clipped on the harness for the rappel down. Thanks for doing the work on the bolts and anchor stations. This should make White Wall ... more >>


Location: GA : Mount Yonah : White Wall : Where's Michael...? (5.11a)
By: Davis13au When: Mar 9, 2010

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Comments: Where you able to go all the way up staying left of the crack at the top? When we first tried it it was so wet at the top you couldn't hold anything and we had to finish basically on Jodi. How was the top? The crux seemed to be in the middle where it blanks out a bit.

Glad to see folks giving it a try.


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