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Member Since: Apr 1, 2008
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 11,776
Total Points: 16
Last Year: 13
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 34 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 6 | Posts 27 | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake
By: davidbr When: Nov 22, 2014

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Comments: This post is directed primarily to anyone involved in the FA or the FFA of Sinner Repent at the Centre of Progress cliff.

I'd love to know why you chose to take the route out the ledge to the right and up the thinner crack rather than continue following the original wide crack to the top. To be honest, I was afraid of trying the bouldery moves off the ledge to gain the handcrack, and just went back into the wide one to the top. Anyone wanting to go that way will find a slung tree now (we made... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Muffin Top (5.10)
By: davidbr When: Jul 3, 2014

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Comments: Don't know where you'd put a #4 on this. It's 5's and 6's all the way. To protect the mantel onto the pillar at the top, you can also place something the size of a #2 and/or a piece in the .5 range.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Stronghold Dome : Shake N Bake (5.10 PG13)
By: davidbr When: Apr 9, 2014

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Comments: At the top of the first pitch, you can build an anchor nicely with one each of BD #2,3,and 6. A BD #5 will also work, but the placement is below where you would comfortable stand, so you have to extend the anchor and hang a bit, which is less comfortable.
From the belay stance at the top of the first pitch, you can't really see much of the crack. The part of it which you can't see would take BD #5s.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihed... (5.9+)
By: davidbr When: Apr 28, 2012

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Comments: The Bloom guidebook says this route has an 'offwidth second pitch'. This second pitch seems to be only about 20ft, up to a ledge with another set of anchors, and a couple of #6 Camalots will protect it.

THere is also a long (about 70m from the station atop p1) chimney above that pitch. Be careful of loose rock on the ledge atop p2, and head deep into the chimney, then aim for daylight. There are options for gear placements from tcu's to 4 inches on the chimney's right-hand wall, and ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Photo
By: davidbr When: Feb 4, 2011

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Comments: Very cool photo. What route is it?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Sun Spot Crags
By: davidbr When: Mar 13, 2010

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Comments: A bit to the left of Crack of Dawn there's a squeeze chimney. Robert McLeod and I climbed this recently. It's 5.7 and would take gear to six inches. To descend, it's an easy and protectable traverse to the chains to the right, though I hope to add chains at the chimney's top next time I'm in Arizona (likely next spring). We haven't been able to find any record or evidence of a prior ascent, and have taken to calling the route 'North America Free Trad Agreement'.