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Member Since: Apr 1, 2008
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 17,681
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All (28) | Routes | Areas | Photos | Comments (4) | Posts (24) | Stars | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Stronghold Dome : Shake N Bake (5.10 PG13)
By: davidbr When: Apr 9, 2014

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Comments: At the top of the first pitch, you can build an anchor nicely with one each of BD #2,3,and 6. A BD #5 will also work, but the placement is below where you would comfortable stand, so you have to extend the anchor and hang a bit, which is less comfortable.
From the belay stance at the top of the first pitch, you can't really see much of the crack. The part of it which you can't see would take BD #5s.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Unnamed 9+ (5.9+)
By: davidbr When: Apr 28, 2012

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Comments: The Bloom guidebook says this route has an 'offwidth second pitch'. This second pitch seems to be only about 20ft, up to a ledge with another set of anchors, and a couple of #6 Camalots will protect it.

THere is also a long (about 70m from the station atop p1) chimney above that pitch. Be careful of loose rock on the ledge atop p2, and head deep into the chimney, then aim for daylight. There are options for gear placements from tcu's to 4 inches on the chimney's right-hand wall, and ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Photo
By: davidbr When: Feb 4, 2011

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Comments: Very cool photo. What route is it?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Sun Spot Crags
By: davidbr When: Mar 13, 2010

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Comments: A bit to the left of Crack of Dawn there's a squeeze chimney. Robert McLeod and I climbed this recently. It's 5.7 and would take gear to six inches. To descend, it's an easy and protectable traverse to the chains to the right, though I hope to add chains at the chimney's top next time I'm in Arizona (likely next spring). We haven't been able to find any record or evidence of a prior ascent, and have taken to calling the route 'North America Free Trad Agreement'.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Government Shutdown - impacted areasGeneral ClimbingdavidbrOct 7, 2013
re: Government Shutdown - impacted areasGeneral ClimbingdavidbrOct 7, 2013
re: Trout Creek AccessPacific NorthwestdavidbrOct 7, 2013
Trout Creek AccessPacific NorthwestdavidbrOct 5, 2013
re: Knead Me, Cochise...Arizona & New MexicodavidbrFeb 4, 2013
Knead Me, Cochise...Arizona & New MexicodavidbrFeb 1, 2013
re: Partner for the Red, 11/9 - 11/12Southern StatesdavidbrNov 6, 2012
re: chopped anchors at seneca...a PSASouthern StatesdavidbrOct 14, 2012
re: Big gear in the South East?Southern StatesdavidbrSep 19, 2012
re: Parking for Chianti SpirePacific NorthwestdavidbrAug 27, 2012
Parking for Chianti SpirePacific NorthwestdavidbrAug 26, 2012
re: Trip to AdirondacksEastern StatesdavidbrFeb 3, 2012
re: Spain for the SummerInternationaldavidbrJan 18, 2012
The Red 16th, 17th, 18th of Nov.Eastern and Southern StatesdavidbrNov 4, 2011
re: Partner for Gunks 10-21, 22, 23?Eastern and Southern StatesdavidbrOct 21, 2011
re: Easy(ish) offwidths at the Red (partners?)Southern StatesdavidbrOct 5, 2011
re: Best moderate finger cracks at the Red?Southern StatesdavidbrOct 3, 2011
re: Big gear for the GunksEastern StatesdavidbrSep 24, 2011
re: Wide cracks at NRGSouthern StatesdavidbrMar 27, 2011
re: Partner for NRG march 25-30Southern StatesdavidbrMar 26, 2011
re: Wide cracks at NRGSouthern StatesdavidbrMar 26, 2011
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