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Member Since: Jul 5, 2005
Last Visit: May 4, 2014
Contact David Shiembob


Point Rank: # 2,629
Total Points: 188
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76 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has David Shiembob been climbing?










Contributions


All 315 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 11 | Page Improvments | Comments 63 | Posts 63 | Stars 146 | Ratings 25
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Psychobabble Wall
By: David Shiembob When: May 13, 2012

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Comments: Sun exposure is very dependent on the time of year. It's always sunny in the middle of the day. Right now it gets some nice afternoon shade, but in the fall it stays sunny pretty late.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak
By: David Shiembob When: Dec 13, 2011

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Comments: Didn't there used to be a route called "Fear of Flying" here?


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : The Snake Strikes (5.11a)
By: David Shiembob When: Dec 1, 2011

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Comments: Stunning!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Eagle Dance (5.10 A1)
By: David Shiembob When: Dec 30, 2008

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Comments: The actual bolt hole seemed to be wearing out, due to the soft rock, so I'm not sure it can be tightened. I believe it was 3/8ths though. As far as the traverse going free, I can't give much beta, other than to say I think you'd have to put shoulder length draws on all the bolts as they are too high to clip from where the free stances would be.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : After The Fall (5.9)
By: David Shiembob When: Oct 30, 2008

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Comments: Great route! Watch the rope drag, there are options for gear, but hand size pieces go in nearly everywhere, so bring em if you got em. Fun, unique climbing for LCC.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Airy Interlude (5.10b)
By: David Shiembob When: Oct 29, 2008

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Comments: Does .10a on granite get any cooler than this? Wow.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Winky and Waxman Go Bolting (5.11b)
By: David Shiembob When: Oct 28, 2008

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Comments: yeah, I couldn't believe the block is gone, the hole where it was is a big hold now, so it didn't seem any harder.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Eagle Dance (5.10 A1)
By: David Shiembob When: Oct 15, 2008

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Comments: I did this route on Sunday, a few comments. The first .10c crux is straightforward face climbing. The bolt ladder is no big deal imho, I've never aid climbed and got through it just fine with a daisy, a couple slings, and a belayer willing to take and give me slack. The pitch right past the bolt ladder has 10 feet of climbing that has become harder than .10b, but well bolted, so again, no big deal. The last .10c pitch was pretty bad though. The first bolt sucks, and protects hard moves. There is... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: David Shiembob When: Sep 26, 2008

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Comments: A great route, definitely physical for 5.8. In contrast to the above poster's comment, our 70m rope came up a good 8 feet short on the first rappel on the N Face.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
By: David Shiembob When: Sep 26, 2008

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Comments: We climbed the N Chimney on Sept 25. The trail is mostly still in, but the last 1/5 or so is completely destroyed, making the last bit hard going. I had read on here somewhere it was possible to rap the N face with one 70m rope, so that is what we tried, but found that our rope came up about 8 feet short on the first rappel. The other two rappels reached fine.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Suicide Blonde (5.11b)
By: David Shiembob When: Sep 22, 2008

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Comments: I think it's correct at .11b. The start has a crappy foot or two, but this is AF after all. Uninspiring black foot nubbins abound, and the climbs are generally solid at their grade. I thought juggernaut seemed harder for what it's worth. (From the one time I've been on each route.)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Mt. Superior / Monte Cristo : South Ridge (5.4)
By: David Shiembob When: Aug 22, 2008

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Comments: I definitely recommend this route. It's a great exposed ridge scramble that keeps going for 3,000 vert, definitely unique for the Wasatch.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - Northeas... : Cairo (5.11a)
By: David Shiembob When: Jun 9, 2008

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Comments: I found the crux to be after the 4th bolt, am I missing something up there? Very interesting climbing.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Transformer Corridor : Mystery Bolter (5.9)
By: David Shiembob When: Jun 9, 2008

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Comments: Bolts are pretty spaced out, you can barely lower off with a 70m rope.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Myopia (5.11a)
By: David Shiembob When: May 31, 2008

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Comments: I took the biggest whipper of my life on this thing last summer. I found all of the 5.10 pitches to be very sustained and difficult. Absolutely incredible route though, just be ready for a mouthful of very solid .10 climbing. It generally protected well, but there were some very thin stemming and laybacking sections where gear was hard to come by and/or place. I have heard repeatedly since I did it that it has a serious reputation, more so than the Fine Line.

I guess these are all just excuses... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Pocket Change (5.11a)
By: David Shiembob When: Nov 14, 2007

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Comments: Hah, I remember this one! What a bizarre finish. I honestly didn't think I was going to get to the top. A trip to division wall isn't complete without sandbagging somebody into doing this thing. (So far I've only been on the receiving end of the sandbagging, but I'm looking forward to turning the tables)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Unreliable (5.12-)
By: David Shiembob When: Oct 15, 2007

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Comments: wow, this seemed really hard, I couldn't even do a bunch of the moves on it. The fixed nut is still there.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Generation Gap (5.12b)
By: David Shiembob When: Oct 10, 2007

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Comments: Yeah maybe I'm being premature. A friend of mine just mentioned that he thought it was really soft, more like .11d, so that got me wondering. Hopefully I'll redpoint the thing soon, so I'll have a good idea then.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Generation Gap (5.12b)
By: David Shiembob When: Oct 10, 2007

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Comments: How hard do you guys think this is? It seems kind of soft at .12b, especially compared to Big in Japan. I also added a short loop of webbing to the first fixed pin, since a biner clipped directly into the pin was loading over the edge of the hand traverse a bit. No micro nuts needed as far as I can tell, just a couple draws and small TCUs. Wiggling in micro gear any higher than the obvious blue TCU would be way too hard I think. Still getting my nerve up for the redpoint...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Desert Gold (5.13a PG13)
By: David Shiembob When: Oct 4, 2007

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Comments: Just out of curiosity, is there a way to approach Desert Reality without doing the .12d pitch?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : All Chalk And No Action (5.12a)
By: David Shiembob When: Sep 27, 2007

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Comments: Woohoo, my first .12. Great vertical climbing. The bolts are kind of manky for such a classic route. People with more experience than me feel it's right on at .12a. By the time you clip the 3rd bolt, the hardest part is over, the missing rock hasn't changed that. I remember reading Performance Rock Climbing and seeing a photo of someone climbing it in there, it was listed as .11d!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Looney Tunes (5.11b R)
By: David Shiembob When: Sep 26, 2007

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Comments: Got on this for the first time today, seconding, which was a good thing. I didn't fall, but wow, not my idea of a nice trad lead, for me at least. The bottom section seemed very heads up to me. Gear is possible and everything, but you better be on it, as you're placing from the crux stances, and you're close to the ground, but still high enough to get hurt.


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area : Dream Catcher (5.11c)
By: David Shiembob When: Sep 25, 2007

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Comments: Really nice route, I found the start to be weird, but the upper face is really nice and gorgeous. The new edition of the guidebook has it at .11c.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers : Total Ramon (5.11c PG13)
By: David Shiembob When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: I guess if you want to be picky about it, this route is really X rated. It's moderate at the top, but you're definitely still climbing, and you'd be cratering by the time you're getting close to the anchors. Not that that should keep a an .11 leader from doing it, all the hard stuff is well protected. Stick clip on the first bolt though unless you're solid. Burly crux moves, be sure to bring your body tension and edging shoes!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Gordon's Direct (5.11b R)
By: David Shiembob When: Sep 6, 2007

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Comments: Wow, great route. Airy exposure as you're working the thin locks with 140' or so of rope out beneath you. Couldn't figure out the top moves so I blew the onsight, but I think I know what to do now, looking forward to getting back on it. There seemed to be a space where there wasn't good pro, pretty much where Ruckmans marked 5.9R on the topo, or maybe they're worried about swinging into the dihedral or something? It doesn't seem to deserve an R rating, especially by LCC standards! Classy variati... more >>


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