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Member Since: Nov 18, 2001
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,816
Total Points: 184
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has David Houston been climbing?










Contributions


All 356 | Routes 12 | Areas 1 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 24 | Posts 64 | Stars 165 | Ratings 85

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : A Brief History of Time (5.9)
By: David Houston When: Jul 17, 2011

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Comments: Fun route with mixed bolts and gear. We toproped a variation that starts between this and Timeless, goes up the slab to the roof, reach up to the arete and step over the roof at perhaps 5.8+, continue up the arete until you meet up with History, step left and go up the black dish a few feet left of the crux crack of History at maybe 5.10-. This could be bolted as another route but would be a bit of a squeeze job. The logical thing would be for History to finish staight up on the black scoop wi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Standard Route (5.7+)
By: David Houston When: Aug 22, 2010

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Comments: Wow, 5.7+? I found this harder than either Classic Finger Crack (5.9) or Zolar Czakl (5.9+) today. And I am tall and was on a top rope!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: David Houston When: Aug 8, 2010

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Comments: As of yesterday, we did not see the two fixed wires on the traverse after the bolts mentioned by Hamlet73. I placed a #0 and a #00 C3 after the second bolt, and we felt the traverse was well-protected since I could reach the first bolt. We called P1 5.10a, both of us would say the second pitch is technically harder, maybe 10b. I got suckered into the face holds out right on P2 since the chalk stopped abruptly in the crack, DOH!

We used the Vertigo rappel anchors which worked prett... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Made In The Shade (5.9-)
By: David Houston When: Jul 31, 2010

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Comments: Another great route, Kirk, thanks! I really enjoyed this, especially the middle section. Our 70m rope worked fine but no extra! These long pitches are great, I'm not sure there was a solid 5.9 move, but there is a lot of climbing on this. I counted 21 clips plus the two bolt upper anchor including one clip at the intermediate anchor.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Forbidden Planet (5.11b)
By: David Houston When: Jul 11, 2009

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Comments: BETA WARNING! A left heel hook got me to the second bolt via the long reach to a positive small edge, and then I traversed out right on decent handholds but very thin feet. Moving up to the next four foot wide edge the edge has various better and worse places to grab it which are not obvious from below, at the right end of this horizontal it is a much more positive handhold which will also help you get on your feet on the right. I couldn't put it together today, but I will be back!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Batso Canal (5.10)
By: David Houston When: Nov 3, 2008

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Comments: Very nicely bolted, thanks Kirk!
The start is very bouldery; I'm sure I could work out a much smoother sequence with repeat ascents. I went too far right, then too far left and made it much harder than it needs to be. Getting on to the climb is the crux!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Gondolier Arete (5.10-)
By: David Houston When: Nov 3, 2008

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Comments: Very aesthetic line, well bolted. I found it about 5.9+, but I am tall.
Thanks Kirk!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Great Zot (5.8+)
By: David Houston When: Jun 28, 2008

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Comments: I read Ivan's post from 2005 with interest because I followed that variation today. I was not convinced that the first dihedral you come to on the traverse left on the third pitch was the one referred to in Rossiter's guide: I looked over the roof, and though there is a decent handhold I didn't see much for the feet or any pro. Looked harder than the 5.6 noted in the description. I continued out to the upward-driven pin, clipped it (with serious doubts that it would hold a fall) and headed u... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Dan's Line aka Restless Hea... (5.11b/c)
By: David Houston When: May 4, 2008

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Comments: We did the first half of this route today, and the black hangers have been swapped out for silver. We found the crux sequential and fingery, but rewarding. Figuring out what route you are on in this area is tricky without a WIFI connection to Mountain Project! The guidebooks are outdated and confusing here. What would it take to persuade Mark Rolofson to update his old guidebook?


Location: CO : Proposed Mountain Bike Trai...
By: David Houston When: Mar 1, 2008

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Comments: I would like to add my support for the new connector trail. While there are pockets of good mountain biking in Boulder County, the longer trails are pretty far from town. Creating some link-ups like the Heil-Hall link and this one from Eldo to Walker would be a huge plus. I support the idea of a separate trail, in fact, I would like to see some bike-only trails. There are numerous hiker-only trails but none that I know of that are bike only. The biggest barrier to mountain biking is user co... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : What Would Jesus Bolt (5.11)
By: David Houston When: Apr 22, 2007

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Comments: Climbed that "squeeze job" today. Perhaps we should post the route separately under that name and move this discussion there! The first move off the ground is a really fun boulder problem style move. Being a chicken I would recommend a stick clip for the first bolt. The route is extremely contrived which makes it very difficult to rate. I was not able to do it without occasionally resorting to holds used by the routes on either side. I don't think it detracts from PP&BB though. Not a rout... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Sister Morphine (5.9)
By: David Houston When: Jan 10, 2004

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Comments: I'd have to call this 5.8 as well. The area was crowded today so we left a sling and rings on the small tree at the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Unknown 10c aka Quadrille (5.10c)
By: David Houston When: Jun 29, 2003

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Comments: We did this route today and found it very interesting; I'd call it 10c/d or so. I found clipping the first bolt to be the trickiest spot, just because of the potential of falling on to the trail! Once clipped, we climbed it two different ways. Slightly to the right of the bolt is a good handhold and thin feet, slightly to the left of the bolt is good feet and thin hands. The left method is very balancy, the right more stenuous, but they felt about the same difficulty. The lack of ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Morning Thunder (5.9+)
By: David Houston When: Apr 17, 2003

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Comments: I love this route, if it was twice as long it would be more popular than the bastille crack! I think it's definitely 5.9+, if you're finding it harder than that look around for some face holds. If you stick with the crack only it gets to be 5.10. Well protected by wires and small cams.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: David Houston When: Apr 17, 2003

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Comments: All pitches are good and most are excellent. If done in four pitches they are all pretty short.

I have to weigh in on the 5.10a/b side of the fence for a rating. Did Morning Thunder yesterday (5.9+) and found it significantly easier.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Cro-Magnon aka The Tail (5.10a)
By: David Houston When: Mar 21, 2003

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Comments: The red line on the photo above is Gambit, so Cro-Magnon follows a line halfway between Gambit and the big dihedral of Mountaineer's.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Table Top Area : Henry Spies the Line (5.9)
By: David Houston When: Jan 17, 2003

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Comments: Your memory is right: There was another bolt added to cover the runout on the middle face. Great route, personally, I think the crux is the final move off the ledge to the anchors!


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winterfest Wall : Cat's Meow (5.10a)
By: David Houston When: Nov 17, 2002

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Comments: We did this route today and It's companion Tinkletoes and enjoyed them both! As for the rating, I would call it solid 5.9.I think its just as hard as 9 to 5. We stayed left of the block not by design, but by lack of careful reading of your description.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Brand New Cadillac (5.11b/c R)
By: David Houston When: Aug 26, 2002

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Comments: I left a wire draw on the third bolt last weekend, but it still seems run out to me now. I guess 16 years and 30 pounds does make a difference. I used a large stopper in the crack between the 2nd and 3rd bolts which looked pretty solid. I'd have no objection if someone wanted to add a bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Highway of Diamonds (5.9+)
By: David Houston When: Aug 26, 2002

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Comments: I led the fist pitch of this route a couple of days ago and it is great. I would mention the long runout after the hand tranverse left up to the crack. If you're solid on 5.8 it just takes a cool head. But it is a 15-20 foot runout and the last piece is somewhat suspect.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: David Houston When: Apr 15, 2002

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Comments: I read this discussion with great interest and went out to do the route yesterday. I hadn't done for it 15 years and remembered it with pain on the backs of my hands. Still painful, still 3 stars! My only comment is that I would reverse the ratings of the regular route and the variation. I think the handcrack is 10c and the roof on the right is 10a! (we did both while we were up there.) On the question of whether this is a good first trad lead, I would say that it is, but only if you've fol... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Table Top Area : Kevin Spies the Line (5.6)
By: David Houston When: Apr 15, 2002

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Comments: Very nice easy route, you can make it about 5.7 by sticking tightly to the line of bolts, worth doing both ways since there are so few routes at this grade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : As We Liked It (5.10 PG13)
By: David Houston When: Nov 18, 2001

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Comments: I led both Chockstone and Xanadu without falls yesterday but was completely rebuffed by this thing. The feet are thin which makes getting pro difficult and the hands are good but small making a pretty strenuous move. If this was in Dream Canyon it'd be a .12 for sure! ;)


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Stained Glass (5.11c)
By: David Houston When: Sep 4, 2001

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Comments: Rossiter shows it sharing the start with Soul on Ice, but there's another bolt down to the right of that start. This web description makes it sound like that's the start, anyone know? And does anyone know the name/grade of the long bolted line to the right but left of Wrinkle in Time? David Houston